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Old Nov 13, 2011, 02:12 AM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
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Thanks, Darren. Bottom line is this is not a simple thing to do unless you know what you are doing.

It's not for the ordinary modeler who is not also an electronics hobbyist I would think.

There are however quite a few people following this thread who would be very interested in the final design of version 5 though if you can find the opportunity to get them. Sounds like a fairly straightforward oscillator set to a frequency that keeps the motherboard happy but, as always, the devil is in the detail. I'm assuming the thermal health of the PS is now entirely in your hands. That is, you control the fan speeds manually but there is no feedback from any thermal sensor in the power supply?

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by extreme heli View Post
Sorry for delay, been busy at new job.

Yes jj604 the introduction of the PWM emulator was the big ticket to the functionality of the power station that I was after. I must say I did have a lot of help from a very knowledgable electronics expert friend of mind in the design of such a circuit. It was also finished up mid summer when I was super busy and don't remember much of the details other than V5 finally works perfectly. Yes it's spliced into ground and replaces signal from the supply fans.

I have enquired to some more details from its creator, but I know he is very busy and I will hear back when things slow down. I do remember the following random info, it was bases on a similar timer to the 555, the frequency was not what was expected when scoped, it was tricky to implement to both supplies given they share a common ground yet had to hook up ground to both and/or independantly...believe opto isolating was the fix, mother board doesn't recognize below aprox. 5500 RPM as indicated by previous resistor posts, these fans r hungry and chew over 1 amp each- thats 55Watts total thus require substantial mosfets/regulators in the controller, the fans get into heavy vibration inducing cavitation from 7 to 9.5K RPM that should be avoided.

I do know I can now dial each of the 4 internal fans now anywhere from 0-11K+RPM, at any time without interrupting the supplies. I have enquired as to the specific shape of wave form and it's frequency, will share if I hear back & he remembers. Sorry for lack of specifics.

Darren
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Thats right John, it's not for the average hobbist or electronics tinkerer, such a project is certainly backed with some expert knowledge and specific equipment.

Yes the thermal stability of the PS is entirely in the hands of the operator with this mod. I do have temp probes mounted on the intake airflow, both supplies exhaust, & large heatsink i put on controller's mosfets. So I do have a real time indication of temps displayed directly under the corresponding RPM I have them set to. The draw on the supplies indicated by my power analizer gives me the indication of RPM rage I should be in to keep to my own boundaries, confirmed or tweaked by temp figures.

If enough people are interested perhaps we can look at selling some PWM Emulator/Generator units ready to go. Again not entirely up to me but if I can get an idea of how many are interested we might be able to put it together. Components were quite minimal from what i remember.

The reading of 32.0F below on my controller is a bad sensor to be replaced.
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 01:17 PM
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Where is the 115 degree reading taken, an exhaust area?

Thanks
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Left to right readings are as follows...

air intake (ambient)
exhaust PS #1
exhaust PS #2
mosfets on back of controller

As fans are turned down it puts the controller to work burning off the excess energy, hence the elevated temp and necessity for a large heat sink to dissipate the up to 55W of energy.

Darren
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Last edited by extreme heli; Nov 14, 2011 at 07:26 AM.
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 01:01 PM
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Dps-300hb a

I have a DPS 300HB a server power supply. I have been researching through this forum to see how to get it online, but have found sketchy and conflicting results... Does anyone know what specific pins I need to connect in the 15pin d-sub connector and the 24 pinn connector to be able to access the various outputs?
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 11:17 AM
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DL585, Part No: 337867-501

I have a problem to run my above mentioned PS.
The output-connector looks like the same as on the picture from jj604 for the PS DL580.
If I connect the three pins, the van started to run faster and the voltage at the power-pins increased to 12,65V. So fare all it's ok.
But if I connect my charger and switch it on, the voltage breaks down and the LED from the PS changed from green to yellow.
Is here anybody, who can help me and knows, what it's wrong?
Many thanks in advance!
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 11:45 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
504 Posts
IBM Bladecenter 2000w PSU DPS-2000BB A Revison S9 voltage control mod.

Revisions S9M and higher for the IBM Bladecenter 2000w PSU DPS-2000BB lack the external voltage control that the S8M and earlier revisions have.

The external voltage control pins(A1 and A2) were left disconnected for some reason in these later revisions.

This internal modification will reconnect the voltage control pins for the S9M and higher revisions and allow for adjustment up to 14.6v.

A rev S8M daughterboard will also work in a rev S9M PS.

Only the 2nd connection highlighted in red needs to be made to the main board.

I did it this way to retain the ability to remove the daughterboard.

An alternative method is to run a jumper wire from the top of the daughterboard to the bottom of the mainboard to connect the same points.

Please use caution when performing this modification !!
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Last edited by xandrios; Nov 17, 2011 at 10:55 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 06:13 PM
KK4NZS
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Virginia
Joined Sep 2006
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Ok today ive tried to mod the fan using the temp control and it worked but only for 2 seconds untill it realised that its running way too low of a fan speed..which darren & JJ had stated earlier so no go on the temp control
so for now the 10ohm resistor system works..

Intrestingly i was looking at some other fans that size and stumbled across some sunon fan specs which can shed some light on how the mother board sees rpm that generates cetain frequency or pulse

The white wire is the signal wire or tach wire/ according to the tech guy from digikey whom i had called to verify about the fans He did say its not colour specific.

there are 2 kinds one for rpm(tach) and something about locked type cannot remember right now anyways heres some info

check out page 6 on the specs sheet


Alright Darren i would be intrested in the PWM Emulator/Generator ...


http://www.sunon.com.tw/products/pdf/maglev.pdf


and more stuff to look at...I am not saying that this will work but give us a general idea of how these fans work etc..

http://http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/High_Frequency_PWM_Fan_Controller/
http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/PW...r_using_a_555/
http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/PW..._RPM_feedback/
http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_PC_Fans_Work/
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Last edited by Nelapaty; Nov 15, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 01:29 AM
Ennnnncommmming!!!!!
Cougar Zeke's Avatar
Bellevue, WA
Joined Sep 2008
920 Posts
Well boys, big thanks to everyone for their input with the ProLiant server power supply. I finished mine last night with a couple of extra touches and advice from earlwb!

I based my distribution panel off of earlwb's design half way down the page here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1216559

Here's the pics of the finished project.

Cheers,
Andy
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 05:14 AM
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Hi does anyone know the pin outs for IBM xseries 366 server power supplies
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 07:22 AM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
Joined Dec 2008
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Cougar_Zeke,
Your power supply and power distribution system is looking really good. You did a good job on it. I think the gray color project box looks better than the black one I used.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 07:23 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
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IBM xseries 366 server PS enable

Hey Trev300,

Ground the top right pin as in the picture. That should get it going for ya.
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Last edited by xandrios; Dec 14, 2011 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 07:38 AM
Steven
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Nice job Cougar Zeke,

It has that old school lab look. Good stuff !!
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 09:55 AM
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Hi, thanks, for the advice and picture. Do you mean ground to earth?
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Last edited by Trev300; Nov 23, 2011 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 04:43 PM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
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Connect the top right pin to the negative DC output. It's the same thing.
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Last edited by xandrios; Nov 24, 2011 at 05:19 PM.
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