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Old Jan 03, 2010, 05:40 AM
Electric Helis is my game
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Lidingo, Sweden
Joined Feb 2005
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Just wanted to chim in with an update, dont know why it didnt work first time but now I'm running ONE fan with the white tach cable connected to both connectors on the motherboard, that works on the HP/Proliant PS

You could remove the fan blade part of the motor and put an external fan to get the noise level down even further, but you need to re-balance the motor as its balanced as one piece with the plastic.

Anyway, running one fan is much better then two.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 06:13 AM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
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Good find, Mr Mel.

Hmmm... Wonder if you could connect a simple pulse generator circuit to the tacho connector on the motherboard and remove the two fans completely before adding a big slower one on the front panel???? Anybody had a look at the signal that the fan tacho lead puts out?

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMel View Post
Just wanted to chim in with an update, dont know why it didnt work first time but now I'm running ONE fan with the white tach cable connected to both connectors on the motherboard, that works on the HP/Proliant PS

You could remove the fan blade part of the motor and put an external fan to get the noise level down even further, but you need to re-balance the motor as its balanced as one piece with the plastic.

Anyway, running one fan is much better then two.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 07:22 AM
Aerial Images of Texas
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Has anyone figured out a method of wiring this thing so that the fans don't come on at all till the switch is thrown?
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 08:23 AM
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Thanks John (jj604) for the power supply information and tips and tricks.

If anybody is interested the www.trademoon.com business has around 100 of the DL580 HP Proliant 800w power supplies in stock. These are the refurbished ones.
http://www.trademoon.com/Product58670.aspx
They want $10 US for each one with around $17.00 UPS ground shipping CONUS.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 08:35 PM
kit
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Thanks for the heads-up Earl. Heck for $10 bucks, I'll give one a try.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 09:38 PM
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I bought two and the shipping stayed the same as for one. Sort of a "two-fer" kind of a deal. Yeah for $10, if nothing else I can get some entertainment out of them messing around.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 08:19 PM
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I just got in the two I ordered. Nice.
They look identical to what the OP jj604 posted in the beginning.
Thanks for the information about how to convert these over for our usage.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 09:48 PM
kit
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Hi earl,

Mine are due here (ohio) thursday. I also ordered one of the $30 backplanes. Not because I needed one, just because I'm curious as to how a pc board can be made to handle that many amps. Since the backplanes have sockets for 2 power supplies, does that mean they are capable of handling upwards of 160 amps????
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 09:50 PM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
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Using two supplies in series

I've started a new thread looking for some expert opinion on the safety issues in using two of these in series to get 24V .

It's at

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post13992510
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 06:57 AM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
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Possible helpful post ,turning it on post.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post13590802

Snip

Quote:
They are Compaq parts and here is the info on them:

Compaq Model DPS-450BB
Series ESP104
P/N: 401401-001
Spare/N: 101902-001

However I opened one up and also see Delta Model number DPS-450BP

They have two connectors on them. One is a 24pin that looks like an ATX 24 pin but has a different wire arrangement. The other is a serial port (RS232) 15 pin connector. Both are built into the back of the case since it is a hot swappable PSU.

Wires on the 24 pin are:

B B B B B R R Br Br Y Y Y
B B B B R R Br Br Br Br Y Y

The serial connector has voltage on the following pins.

8 pins top and 7 pins bottom

0v 0v 0v 0v 0v 0v 1v 0v
.2v .2v 0v .1v 5.2v 5v 1v

Just jumper pin 4 and pin 13. That's all you need to do. This is the simplest PS conversion you can do
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 07:44 AM
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Kit. I can see a number of others bought the power supplies too. When I ordered there were 118 in stock. Now they are down to 88 at this moment. I probably set off a run of people scarfing them up.

I think the backplane allows both power supplies to connect both in parallel at the same time. But if one supply quits, the other has to take the entire load. But it gives the computer a instant backup power supply. The forked pins allowed for hot swapping without shutting down the server.

I don't think that anyone thought about using double the power on the two power supplies. In place each power supply was running about bout 30% to 40% load, and if one supply kicked off, then the single supply was running about 60% or so load. But it might work fine with two in parallel with the backplane where you can get twice the power out of them. It might be something to try outif you want.

These were back when just two servers would fill a entire rack in the server room. I remember supporting four servers like these a long time ago. The servers were big and heavy. Getting the top server back into the rack if you took it out was a PITA. We had a UPS uninterruptible power supply unit in the bottom of the rack, then next up was a RAID array hard drive unit, then the big server box, then another RAID array for the top server and then the top server box. No room for a thin slide in and out LCD display and keyboard. But the rack with the next two servers adjacent to it, did not have the UPS, so they had room for the display and keyboard. Behind the servers on the back of the rack was the display and keyboard switch box.
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 01:04 PM
G=667x10^-8 cm^-3 gm^-1 sec^-2
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Joined Nov 2009
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My Solution

First, most ATX PSU's dont make all that much current on the 12v side, certainly not 20 amps, they make 20 amps for the 5v, 80% of a desktop's power needs are at 5v. Read the label carefully.
I use a lot of direct current, and I always have, my solution is I keep a car battery, on a charger, that charges constantly. Although the charger is only 2-10 amps, the battery is rated for at least 600 cranking amps, it will deliver big when I need it to, since I always keep the charge on it. I run all kinds of stuff this way, it's less trouble than a brick farm, and has the added advantage of being immune to the plug being pulled out of the wall, well, I can pull the plug, but the battery will keep going for quite a while before that becomes an issue.
I run everything dc off that, I made a couple of reducers, with regulators and whatever fat capacitors I could find, to make dc/dc psu's for my wireless networking stuff, I have an lcd screen that runs on that, when I use it, and that is what I use to power my lipo charger, that's a gimme. The plus side is that the networking stuff is really picky sometimes about getting adequate juice, more often than not, the bricks that come with them are barely enough, and usually overrated, since I reflash those with firmware that allows me to turn up the transmit power by a factor of almost 10x, they wont work from the old brick, like that, but all my stuff has power to spare, now, insufficient power is eliminated as a possible cause for anything.
It works for me.

NOTE: ATX hotwire: The signal wire is green, and there is only one green one, it is the 4th from the end. It needs to go to ground to turn the psu on, the 3rd and 5th wires, on either side next to the green (just not the opposite 4th one), those are ground, it can go to either one. I use a staple, usually.

To test this, while plugged in and switched on, ONLY that green wire, should read 5vdc, that is the one that is on, even when the psu is "sleeping", again, short it out directly to ground to turn the psu "on".
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Last edited by dissymmetry; Jan 06, 2010 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 01:54 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
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dissymmetry These server power supplys do indeed supply more than 20A DC 12V some up to just over 100 amps. These are not personal computer power supplies and they do not use a green or brown wire to be turned on.

It would help if all read the first post of a thread before trying to be helpful.

Charles
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 02:33 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
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Post # 79 link

http://www.trademoon.com/Product58670.aspx

and these are what arrived today.


If perchance anyone has any experience with these help. From recent post there looks like a few have been ordered already.



Control pins left to right , top to bottom
1-6
7-12
13-18
19-24

top row 4,5 ground
second row 10,12 ground
third row 15,17,18 ground
fourth row (bottom) 20 ground


Blade conections left to right

# 1 110 line / #2 Netural / #3 Ground

Photo and wiring drawing here

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post14004361

1-19-2010
Update This is a significnate ,please read carefuly.
If you are using these very same power supplies as singles then nothing has charged however if you are using them in series ...

I have done more testing and determined that in fact the DC grounds are in fact isolated from the AC (case/earth)ground. What does this mean. In simple terms it means that the can be used in series with the earth ground connected to both units and it also means that the cases do not have to be isolated from each other(tey can touch) and it also means that with the earth ground connected they are now much safer to use.

Very same being hp Series ESP 114
Part # 192147-001

Charles
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Last edited by everydayflyer; Jan 19, 2010 at 06:28 AM. Reason: added info about grounds
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dissymmetry View Post
I use a lot of direct current, and I always have, my solution is I keep a car battery, on a charger, that charges constantly.
I looked at car batteries but my current morning charge ritual uses about 50 amps for an hour to an hour and a half which would clobber most car batteries pretty quickly. Within a few years I expect the power needs to increase.

Deep cycles would be better, but the HP PS in this thread cost me ~$20 on ebay and can pump more amps than I need all day long. Plus no concerns about lead acid lifetimes and failure modes.
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