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I have a hot swappable DL580 supply, model DPS-450BB that seems to be different.
It's got a large plastic connector with all the black, red, brown, and yellow wires in it, and a connector that looks like a serial connector I assume is the signal wires. I can't get it to power on. Anyone familiar with the serial type connector to know which wires are the power switch ones? |
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I pulled one out of an IBM X series server that was being scrapped and can get it to power up fine, but the high current blades won't put out any more than 5v. This one only has 4 blades and 20 pins. Input says 100-127v -10A and 200-240v - 5A. Another part of the label says "HIPOT" 25A which I'm assuming is the output spec. Any ideas on how to get 12V out of this thing??
Brett |
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Just my experience with a 1010 ps. Others may differ. I had a 12V Meanwell 40 amp in my shop used for a different application. When I bought the 1010 I assumed it would work just fine on 12V. It didn't. I could not get much above 4 -5amps out of it for a 5 cell 123 pack. About half of what I wanted.
Lucky for me it has a voltage adjustment on the side. I adjusted it to about 13.75 V and it now powers the 1010 just fine at 8 amps up to 10 cells.. Have not tried higher amps or more cells. So be careful putting a lot of work into a 12v supply. it may not work properly. You can buy a 15V Meanwell 40 amp from Progressive RC for a good price. Not worth the effort for a DIY project imho. |
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As I said there are many threads etc about converting power supplies as well as a wealth of info like dusty posted above.
Here's a link to what I have found to work well on the Duo, Triton, Triton2, and Astro 109. They should work fine with any charger which will operate on 12V. You must read the MFR's specs carefully. ie the Duo is good up to 24Vand the Triton is only good for 15V. The Duo will not give full rated output on 12V but it will give about 90%. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1051873 |
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Quote:
I should have mentioned that my very old Astro converted to A123's works just fine on 12V or even less. Put to sleep by the 1010 however cuz it couldn't handle my big packs of A123's. Also would jump cell and could not be trusted. |
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USA, CA, Sunnyvale
Joined Nov 2008
29 Posts
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jj604: Thank you for the good description of getting your HP Power Supply to work.
I have a similar HP Power Supply DPS-600PB with "only" 47 Amps. I tried shorting all the pins to ground with a reisistor inline also, but it never occurred to me to short two :-). I measured the voltages on all the pins, and the one short pin and the one that made it work were both just above 4 volts. The others were not really identifiable except ground and 5V. No 3.3 volts on this one, just 5, +12 and -12, but apparently the +12 is not on until the power supply is jumpered. I have only tested it up to 3.5 amps, but the voltage held without any measurable drop, so I am very optimistic that I will get full output. The pins to be grounded were not in a line, so I used balance plug receptacles puhed out of their connector with shrink tubing over them, twisted and soldered them together. No power switch so far. Again, many thanks. Edit: here are the pins I jumpered: The connector looks like this: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 6 is shorter than the rest, connect 6 and 10 to ground. 8 is ground, and I used 8, but any ground will work. edit 10/2/10: from a post below from a more savvy hacker than I, pin 5 is probably NOT a ground, use pin 8. The fan is pretty loud indoors, Ok outside. |
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I didn't want to hijack the thread so I started a new one related to the DPS-450BB power supplies I have.
Ideas? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1076321 |
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Wanted to ask in this thread, has anyone doing this mod of a HP PROLIANT DL580/ML570G3 powersupply changed the fans to something bigger (and put them externally) or same size (replacing them) for a more silent version, does it work good?
Since sitting in the same room, or even floor as the HP Server powersupplies on full speed is like sitting behind a 747 on take-off
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Hi MrMel.
I was waiting to see if anyone came back with some experience of doing this because as you say the big pain with these otherwise nice PS is the noise. Not a huge issue for me since I only use it in the garage when my 20A supply isn't enough. For what it's worth, I think it would be pretty simple to extrenally mount a larger 90 or 120mm computer fan to blow through the case. There's plenty of 12V available to run it! I've attached a picture of the inside of the PS. It has two small but fast and noisy fans side by side. If you removed them (and you might have to make some alternative arangements for the mechanical support they provide to the case) then you could add a big slower quieter fan to the front. Airflow should be pretty good, maybe even better than before, since fans work best with an unrestricted input. I did something similar for my Thecus NAS box which was inadequately cooled. Ended up running virtually silently and much cooler (although it won't win any design awards - see attached picture). I used a kitchen funnel as a reducer between the new fan and the mount taken off the old one. For this server PS I bet you could make up a nice rectangular duct out of bent Al or even glued Foamboard in a few minutes. Masking or Gaffer tape is wonderfully flexible, quick and adequate to attach the fan. Spray the whole thing black to give it some class. :-) Regards, John Quote:
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Joined Oct 2009
14 Posts
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Hi John,
Any idea to turn on HP/Com #226519-001? Please let me know how you ground the small pin and attach a 1K resistor into it and what is the watt of resistor. Thanks This PS is to power 5 servo drive rated 75V 10A and servo motor rated 60V 20A for 5axis CNC project. Regards, Jetblack |
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