Sorry guys, I took the easy way out. Moved my converted Cisco Router PS on to the workbench instead. It supplies 33A at 12v with little noise. If I need more than that I'll put up with the racket.

BTW If anyone has one of these

Cisco PN 34-0873-1 from Ascom Energy Systems also known as a Sony APS-111 the original info to crack them was here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...63&postcount=4

Originally Posted by jj604

Well that's what I'll be trying first.

From memory most of these fans normally only draw about 300-500mA. Even the frantic little beasts in these supplies ought be an Amp or less so 5W is probably what we need to lose max.

Sounds a lot like me. I use my two IBM 235s in series 24V @ 30A with a 12V /30A tap daily as they supply all the juice I need 99% of the time. If I need more I fire up the hp ESP 114s which gives me 12 and 24 V at 55A. They are not really all that noisy but pull more AC when at idle and the IBM 235 can not even be heard unless I am charging at over 500 watts and even then most charger's fans make almost as much noise.

Charles

FYI
Compuvest has these:
155005715-82 StoresFixedPrice 1300WATT HP POWER SUPPLY F/ ML570G3 DL580G3 406421-001
at $58.00 ea

I just ordered one and there are more than 50 in stock.

1300W sounds like serious power. Do you know the crack?

Originally Posted by linw

1300W sounds like serious power. Do you know the crack?

verify but i think this is the one - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...43&postcount=2

Originally Posted by bob4432

verify but i think this is the one - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...43&postcount=2

Yes, that's the one.... at least this is one of the variants of that one. We shall see if that crack works. If not, it has to be something similar and this thread has some pretty good foundational information that should help.

Wish me luck!

If so, that makes it easy! As I have found out, there's nothing easier than using a known crack!

nairbg, that's the supply that started this thread. It will work fine. The part number you have quoted is the number when it is supplied as a spare. I have gone back and bolded the numbers in the original posts to make them a bit more obvious.

You won't get 1300W out of it on a US domestic supply. On 110-127V they are rated for a miserable 74 Amps out so it's hardly worth your trouble.

Be aware they are noisy because of the two internal high speed cooling fans. People have quietened them down but you have to open them up to do that. Two of them at that price make an awesome 24V 110A or 74A supply. There's a whole separte thread on that. Here's mine.

John

Originally Posted by nairbg

Yes, that's the one.... at least this is one of the variants of that one. We shall see if that crack works. If not, it has to be something similar and this thread has some pretty good foundational information that should help.

Wish me luck!

Looks a beast, John! Very neat and tidy. Glad it comes with a health warning on the side! Californians will need to beef that warning up considerably, though, as it must be spraying emf, neutrons, xrays, cancer etc etc. It could also be used to beat someone over the head with!

Lindsay.

Does that handle also serve as an OFF switch if you pull it down all the way?

Fred

Very funny - sort of like a 110A circuit breaker?

Actually on my single 12V supply it makes a neato stand when you swing it down and it props the front of the PS off the bench so it doesn't suck in stuff. The back is no problem. The fans are so fierce they clean the bench of anything lying on it to perfection. I wonder if you could add some wings and use it as an EDF model???

Originally Posted by flarssen

Does that handle also serve as an OFF switch if you pull it down all the way?

Fred

Originally Posted by jj604

Very funny - sort of like a 110A circuit breaker?

Actually on my single 12V supply it makes a neato stand when you swing it down and it props the front of the PS off the bench so it doesn't suck in stuff. The back is no problem. The fans are so fierce they clean the bench of anything lying on it to perfection. I wonder if you could add some wings and use it as an EDF model???

Like the circuit breaker feature!!

The EDF plan might be a problem, though, considering the VERY long mains cable required!!

Lindsay.

Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2

The dps-700cb connectionboard looks like the above image. both sides of the board sticking out are the same, though not in voltages but in layout.
I've tried either side but the supply won't start. I now have to try combinations with both sides.
(P.S., don't look to much to my paint art)

Yes, I've hacked it after reading this part in this thread:

Originally Posted by MDavis22
jj604: Thank you for the good description of getting your HP Power Supply to work.

I have a similar HP Power Supply DPS-600PB with "only" 47 Amps. I tried shorting all the pins to ground with a reisistor inline also, but it never occurred to me to short two :-).
I measured the voltages on all the pins, and the one short pin and the one that made it work were both just above 4 volts. The others were not really identifiable except ground and 5V.
No 3.3 volts on this one, just 5, +12 and -12, but apparently the +12 is not on until the power supply is jumpered.
I have only tested it up to 3.5 amps, but the voltage held without any measurable drop, so I am very optimistic that I will get full output.

The pins to be grounded were not in a line, so I used balance plug receptacles puhed out of their connector with shrink tubing over them, twisted and soldered them together. No power switch so far.

Again, many thanks.

Edit: here are the pins I jumpered:
The connector looks like this:

1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12


6 is shorter than the rest, connect 6 and 10 to ground. 8 is ground, and I used 8, but any ground will work. 5 measured 0 volts, same as 8, so is ground.

The fan is pretty loud indoors, Ok outside.

I've updated the picture since i forgot one strip on the circuitboard connector. The arrows point to the strips that need to be connected
to each other. It is as seen from the side where the label with the serialnumber etc. is stuck on.
It are the first, fourth and sixth strip that needs to be connected to each other.
The only thing now is that i'll solder some heavy gauge wire to the 12 volt strips (the larger one's) and build some sort of case around it.

Nice one supercub. Another one down! We have quite a few of the most common ones here, now. Great resource for all to use.

There's simply no doubt about their suitably for the job. Friend raves about the one I passed on to him.

I’ve done a post that gathers some of this info in the one place. Hopefully that will make it easier for folks to find it. Please add any links to supplies that have been converted that aren’t yet there.

Thanks
John

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post15798818