FWIW con I use Deans rather than bullets because thay are polarized, easy to solde rand cheap. 4mm female bullets will fit the bananas that come on Hyperion chargers.
Just don't hook em up backwards.

Originally Posted by jj604

With yours you just need to check which ones are +12v (5 and 6 reading from the left if that diagram is correct) and which is ground and connect the two wires to those. The grounds for 3.3, 5 and 12V will be the same - ie you can check the the 4 right hand ones are ground easily with a multimeter on the ohms range as they will measure zero resistance between the tabs.

My intention is not to combine these. I'm not that power hungry (yet) and electrical-savvy.

Assuming 5 and 6 (based on the diagram) are 12V, I would need to solder the red wire on the positive and the black wire on the negative? So nothing would be soldered to any of the 4 tabs on the right? Don't worry, I'm not going to do anything unless I'm pretty certain about what I would be doing! Anyway, the PSU is at work and I won't see it before Tuesday...

feathermerchant - ok, got it. I'll think about that.

NO NO!

The two tabs 5,6 will have the 12V +ve and the red wire connects to them. The four right hand tabs are all ground and the black wire goes there.

Disclaimer. This is all based on intelligent guess work since I have never had one of these. Can someone who has one confirm?

At the very least you should check the voltage between the 5,6 tabs and the 4 ground tabs is 12V BEFORE you attach anything.

Originally Posted by cron

My intention is not to combine these. I'm not that power hungry (yet) and electrical-savvy.

Assuming 5 and 6 (based on the diagram) are 12V, I would need to solder the red wire on the positive and the black wire on the negative? So nothing would be soldered to any of the 4 tabs on the right? Don't worry, I'm not going to do anything unless I'm pretty certain about what I would be doing! Anyway, the PSU is at work and I won't see it before Tuesday...

feathermerchant - ok, got it. I'll think about that.

Originally Posted by jj604

NO NO!

The two tabs 5,6 will have the 12V +ve and the red wire connects to them. The four right hand tabs are all ground and the black wire goes there.

Disclaimer. This is all based on intelligent guess work since I have never had one of these. Can someone who has one confirm?

At the very least you should check the voltage between the 5,6 tabs and the 4 ground tabs is 12V BEFORE you attach anything.

Understood it's all guesswork at the moment. I'll check everything before doing it. So that would be two red wires in parallel on 5,6 and one black on one of the ground.

Actually, the diagram comes from someone who helped a guy on another forum. He has the exact same PSU and he's using it to power his charger for LiPos. I'm trying to have him to send me a picture of how he achieved that. Hopefully, I'll be able to reach him.

I would put two red wires in parallel on 5,6 and two black ones in parallel on 7,8 (assuming 7,8,9,10 all turn out to be grounds). If you can find one already working OK you are in a good position.

John

Originally Posted by cron

Understood it's all guesswork at the moment. I'll check everything before doing it. So that would be two red wires in parallel on 5,6 and one black on one of the ground.

Actually, the diagram comes from someone who helped a guy on another forum. He has the exact same PSU and he's using it to power his charger for LiPos. I'm trying to have him to send me a picture of how he achieved that. Hopefully, I'll be able to reach him.

Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2

Ok, that's clear. I'll dig something up at home.
Thanx anyway for the explanation.

Paul

I've tried almost all combinations, also from one side of the board to the other side but nothing works. The supply wont start. No 12 volts anywhere.
Is there someone else out there with a DPS-700CB supply?

Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2

I've tried almost all combinations, also from one side of the board to the other side but nothing works. The supply wont start. No 12 volts anywhere.
Is there someone else out there with a DPS-700CB supply?

Maybe you could get some help over here? It's always worth a try asking the guy, I'm pretty sure he knows how he made it work.

EDIT: sorry, I think it's the same part number, but not the same PSU...

Originally Posted by MDavis22

jj604: Thank you for the good description of getting your HP Power Supply to work.

I have a similar HP Power Supply DPS-600PB with "only" 47 Amps. I tried shorting all the pins to ground with a reisistor inline also, but it never occurred to me to short two :-).
I measured the voltages on all the pins, and the one short pin and the one that made it work were both just above 4 volts. The others were not really identifiable except ground and 5V.
No 3.3 volts on this one, just 5, +12 and -12, but apparently the +12 is not on until the power supply is jumpered.
I have only tested it up to 3.5 amps, but the voltage held without any measurable drop, so I am very optimistic that I will get full output.

The pins to be grounded were not in a line, so I used balance plug receptacles puhed out of their connector with shrink tubing over them, twisted and soldered them together. No power switch so far.

Again, many thanks.

Edit: here are the pins I jumpered:
The connector looks like this:

1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12


6 is shorter than the rest, connect 6 and 10 to ground. 8 is ground, and I used 8, but any ground will work. 5 measured 0 volts, same as 8, so is ground.

The fan is pretty loud indoors, Ok outside.

Wow, thanks for this. Save me some time as I am awaiting one of these I have just bought for a fellow club member. This thread is a goldmine!

Lindsay.

Originally Posted by jj604

How about a 5V 3 terminal 3A regulator? Pretty cheap and simple to use. Might need a small cap across the output for stability? Think the fan will spin a lot faster than it did on 3.3v since that must be just about it's startup voltage.

I have now done the mod on all three PSU's. All parts were taken from a fried 18A ESC that had four regulators in total, so basically free.

Fred

That looks very tidy, Fred (and cheap!). What is the sound level like now?

Lindsay.

And does the power supply burn up under full load on a 100 deg Texas day?

Oh wait.

C'mon feather - he lives in Norway for 'sake.
It's a heatwave there when the ice melts.

Seriously, good one Fred. Be interested in your views on the sound and effectiveness. Getting a bit tired of my HP 747's (although they are perfect in every other way).

MrMel did you ever do anything about yours?

John

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

And does the power supply burn up under full load on a 100 deg Texas day?

Oh wait.

I have heard that in some jumbo jets you have towear hearing protection for the avionics fans. I lean towards the always on but I know yours are noisy jj.

Originally Posted by jj604

C'mon feather - he lives in Norway for 'sake.
It's a heatwave there when the ice melts.

That was in the good old days, before the global heating started .

It's very quiet, hard to hear at all at some meters distance.
I pulled 48A (90% of max) with a charger for 15 minutes. The air that left it was warm, not hot, and no bad smells .
These are designed to be inside racks at maybe 50% above normal room temperature. Anyway I would be surprised if it burns up instead of shutting down.
I will put the three of them in a case with an opening in each end and a firewall in the middle as a seal between the hot and cold ends. Then I have the option to add a larger fan to the case should that ever be needed. A 2KW unit that will run at 50-60% of max, at most.

Fred

Thanks for the info, Fred. Keep us informed how it goes becasue your comments about the data centre temps got me thinking. Maybe we don't have to put up with the racket after all. If we run the PS normally with the 5V regulator in place but were able to detect a temp rise above a certain level??? I have a HobbyCity LiPo alarm that looks like this, measures only pack voltage and temperature, and has specs:

Voltage detection range: 4~26V(+-0.5%)
Temperature detection range: 0~150C(+- 1C)

Should be simple to run it off the 12V supply and have it alarm at a set temperature. Connect a tiny relay across the alarm and you could ground or bypass the regulator and have the fans go to full speed. Whole thing for <$10.00.

Hmmmmm... just speculating. If these things are only 85% efficient and they put out 1300 Watts at full tit then that's about 200W of heat to get rid of. That's not too bad and we rarely run them flat out and my guess is they are more efficient than that. Sounds very practical to me. Bet the fans would almost never speed up.

John

PS: And it would give you a digital readout of the supply voltage as well. Useless since these things regulate so well but nice to watch.

Originally Posted by flarssen

That was in the good old days, before the global heating started .

It's very quiet, hard to hear at all at some meters distance.
I pulled 48A (90% of max) with a charger for 15 minutes. The air that left it was warm, not hot, and no bad smells .
These are designed to be inside racks at maybe 50% above normal room temperature. Anyway I would be surprised if it burns up instead of shutting down.
I will put the three of them in a case with an opening in each end and a firewall in the middle as a seal between the hot and cold ends. Then I have the option to add a larger fan to the case should that ever be needed. A 2KW unit that will run at 50-60% of max, at most.

Fred