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Old Jul 30, 2010, 01:15 AM
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Hi Guys,
Just new here. I've recently obtained a HP DPS-700CB, the connector at the rear is almost the same as LINW's supply, but mine has the larger connection surfaces at the left and right of the circuitboard connector. I've tried almost all combinations to get the supply startede but at no avail. I'll post the voltages and some pictures, maybe someone can help out. The supply should be able to put out 64 Amps at 12Volts.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 05:53 AM
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The dps-700cb connectionboard looks like the above image. both sides of the board sticking out are the same, though not in voltages but in layout.
I've tried either side but the supply won't start. I now have to try combinations with both sides.
(P.S., don't look to much to my paint art)
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 05:55 AM
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Did you find a short pad? That will be the starting point.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linw View Post
Did you find a short pad? That will be the starting point.
Hi Linw,
What do you mean by short pad?
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 07:12 AM
ancora imparo
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Looks to me from your diagram that the centre connector is shorter and might be the "short pad".

This could be the equivalent of the short pin on the other supplies. They are the key to this as the reasoning is they are the last to make contact and finally tell the PS it is good to go. Try shorting that centre connector to ground for a start.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2 View Post
Hi Linw,
What do you mean by short pad?
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Looks to me from your diagram that the centre connector is shorter and might be the "short pad".

This could be the equivalent of the short pin on the other supplies. They are the key to this as the reasoning is they are the last to make contact and finally tell the PS it is good to go. Try shorting that centre connector to ground for a start.

John
I've tried that on both sides of the board but that didnt work. I still have to try to short it
from one side to the other side.
I'll try this evening, I'm at work right now and it's 13:25 in holland, so still 2 hours to go.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 07:28 AM
ancora imparo
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You might be lucky. If the PS label gives the outputs you might be able to eliminate all the wider connectors by logic. They are wide to carry heavier currents and if you can assign them to likely outputs you are only left with a few to play with. Lot simpler than the 24 logic pins on some supplies!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2 View Post
I've tried that on both sides of the board but that didnt work. I still have to try to short it
from one side to the other side.
I'll try this evening, I'm at work right now and it's 13:25 in holland, so still 2 hours to go.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Looks to me from your diagram that the centre connector is shorter and might be the "short pad".

This could be the equivalent of the short pin on the other supplies. They are the key to this as the reasoning is they are the last to make contact and finally tell the PS it is good to go. Try shorting that centre connector to ground for a start.

John
The only problem is that there is a short pad on both sides.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 08:42 AM
ancora imparo
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So, theory time is over. Get out the shorting resistor and try every combination you can.

That's what got most of the others on this thread working. We only pretend to know what we are doing really.
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Originally Posted by SuperCub-s2 View Post
The only problem is that there is a short pad on both sides.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
So, theory time is over. Get out the shorting resistor and try every combination you can.

That's what got most of the others on this thread working. We only pretend to know what we are doing really.
I read that other people use 1k resistors, can i just use a piece of wire instead
of a resistor?
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 09:00 AM
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Do you know why a resistor should be used?
The idea is to limit the shorts to a safer level. You can use a piece of wire but then you have no protection. This is similiar to what some people use to do when a house fuse blew and they had no spare,they would put a penny in the socket and scerew the fuse down on it. Great way yo get the power back on and also a great way to burn your house down.


Charles
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by everydayflyer View Post
Do you know why a resistor should be used?
The idea is to limit the shorts to a safer level. You can use a piece of wire but then you have no protection. This is similiar to what some people use to do when a house fuse blew and they had no spare,they would put a penny in the socket and scerew the fuse down on it. Great way yo get the power back on and also a great way to burn your house down.


Charles
Ok, that's clear. I'll dig something up at home.
Thanx anyway for the explanation.

Paul
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Ooooohhhh... I was looking to buy a PS350, but then I stumbled on this thread... It happens I work in IT and we have some spare parts lying around.

I got an HP ML370 G2 500 WATT POWER SUPPLY (part #216068-002) which looks very similar to the one in the first post of this thread (at least the back of it). Now I'm interested. It produces 12.05V @ 30A. That's more than what I need now.

I'm not an electrician, but from what I could glance all over the thread (which is rather long), I can understand this one should be easy to use. Pardon me from asking some questions that may already have been aswered (I'll be glad if you can point me to the post number for reference), but here they are:

My charger is the iCharger 106b+, so it can be fed through a normal laptop PS or banana plugs. I see you modified the original HP power supply with Deans connectors. And you have a pair of them. I'm not sure why.

Should it be as simple as soldering the switch (as demonstrated in the very first post) and just one black and one red cable with female banana plugs?

I'll wait to hear a few comments before proceeding. Thanks!

PS: Please note mine has 6 tabs on one side, 20 pins (with one short) and 4 tabs on the other side. Yes, I'm looking for an easy solution, aren't we all?
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 12:28 PM
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Looks like a little bit of reading provided some answer:

Quote:
So short out these pins and it will power up, and supply the voltages without any load:
* * * * *
*-* * * *
* * * * *
* *-* * *

Pinout:

| | | | | | ## | | | |
3.3V 5V 12V 5x4p ---GND---
Case #1 solved (without any guessing!). I think your second post at the beginning of the thread answered a few questions. You deliberatly separated the voltage across all the pins to save one wire to get all the current at the same time. And you have two outputs to feed two chargers (with an Y harness to feed one hog charger).

I'm not sure though. It means the first six tabs would provide 3.3V+, 3.3V-, 5V+,5V- and 12V+,12V-?

Anyone care to take a guess at how the cables would be installed on this PS? I'll continue to dig up the info...
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 06:22 PM
ancora imparo
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Cron, you got it right. The multiple wires are an attempt to share the current across the PC traces inside the power supply. My original supply only has 12V on the big terminals, that's why it was an attractive one to try as virtually all the power went into the 12V line.

With yours you just need to check which ones are +12v (5 and 6 reading from the left if that diagram is correct) and which is ground and connect the two wires to those. The grounds for 3.3, 5 and 12V will be the same - ie you can check the the 4 right hand ones are ground easily with a multimeter on the ohms range as they will measure zero resistance between the tabs.

May even be zero between those 4 tabs and the metal case but if it isn't that is common as well. That's only of importance if you use two of these supplies in series to supply 15 or 24V. That's a whole different topic and you should read the thread I started here if you are thinkig of doing that. Ignore it if you are not.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1170241&page=1


John
Quote:
Originally Posted by cron View Post
Looks like a little bit of reading provided some answer:



Case #1 solved (without any guessing!). I think your second post at the beginning of the thread answered a few questions. You deliberatly separated the voltage across all the pins to save one wire to get all the current at the same time. And you have two outputs to feed two chargers (with an Y harness to feed one hog charger).

I'm not sure though. It means the first six tabs would provide 3.3V+, 3.3V-, 5V+,5V- and 12V+,12V-?

Anyone care to take a guess at how the cables would be installed on this PS? I'll continue to dig up the info...
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