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Old Nov 02, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BrushlesHeaven View Post
DELL Z930P-00 power up mod

Ok, after few days of working on it I was able to properly power it up!!!
Big thanks to all of you guys. Special thanks goes to XANDRIOS for sending me few important remarks on what to do.
Here is the deal. The only 1 pin that needs to be connected to -12V output is pin D2
I have ON/OFF swich wired directly to the board.
That is it!!!
Works like a charm. Now I just need to slow down the fan.... And this is done now and working.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bnf7-...layer_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGeBY...layer_embedded
I recently got my hands on a Dell PSU (Dell P/N 0U8947), and I'm wondering how to wire a switch directly to the board? Your videos were very helpful, thank you! But my boards a bit different and don't know where to solder. I've attached a pic of what my board looks like...

I already soldered D2 to -12, w/o a switch and I'm only getting a single green light on plug-in. I then tried wiring a switch through A1, B1, B6 and it fires up for 10secs, then orange light. If I toggle the switch it will repeat. So I'm thinking I need to have the switch directly soldered to the board?



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Old Nov 03, 2012, 08:23 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
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Hey Ronnie,

Where is your pic ??

Look for a small hole in the power supply case that lines up to where a switch should be as seen in this pic. The small internal switch may or may not be installed. It will depend on the revision number of the PSU mainboard. If it's not there then just solder in your own.

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Old Nov 03, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Hi xandrios,

I actually did upload pics - maybe b/c I'm a new member they're not showing? Here's the direct links to them:

http://imageshack.us/a/img9/711/img0381dyx.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img812/9453/img0384lh.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img195/9030/img0386cg.jpg

But I don't seem to have a hole in the side of the case. I've never dealt with soldering on a printed board, so I wouldn't know where to solder to for the switch. Can you point out where I'd need to solder to?

Do you think this will solve my problem?

Many thanks in advance!
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Astec 23650 / Sun Fire V240 Power Supply Pinout

Hi,
have checked this thread, but didn't find anything about such a Power Supply.
I have 'recycled' this PS from the pizza box in the trash
It's a nice slim PS - would be great to find out the pin out and hope somebody here could support me. Some pics here

Thanks
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 11:51 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie Mund View Post
But I don't seem to have a hole in the side of the case. I've never dealt with soldering on a printed board, so I wouldn't know where to solder to for the switch. Can you point out where I'd need to solder to?

Do you think this will solve my problem?

Many thanks in advance!
You're right. That mainboard is totally different. If the mainboard doesn't have a location for a switch then you most likely can't wire in one of your own.

You've already tried wiring a switch through A1, B1, B6.

Try also pin B4 to ground through a 500 ohm resistor.

The orange error light comes on after 10 seconds.

That usually indicates a bad tach output from the fan. Do you have any way to test this ?

What DC voltage do you get when it's running ?

Some pin mapping will help. Find all the ground pins.

Find all the 3.3VSB(3.3V standby) pins. All 3.3VSB pins will be connected together so check for DC continuity between them. A true 3.3VSB pin will not drop voltage when slightly loaded(connected to ground through a 200 ohm resistor). A false 3.3VSB pin will drop voltage when slighty loaded.

Find out which pins (if any) raise the main DC output voltage. Connect each pin(one at a time) to the +12V output through a 470 Ohm resistor. Then check for DC output voltage rise.
Also connect each pin(one at a time) to ground through a 470 Ohm resistor. Check again for voltage rise.

Sense pins raise and lower the main DC output voltage. Current share pins only raise the main DC output voltage.
The output voltage of the Current share pin will increase in proportion to the main DC output load.

Compare your results with these two pinouts:




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Old Nov 04, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Hello,

unfortunately the 4 MosFET's of the DPS-1570 are more expensive as the DPS-1570 itself. :-(
That's why I've bought two of the DPS-2000BB Rev: S7 power supplys. (one as reserve :-) )

I want to operate the power supply together with an car audio amplifier, is that working ?
On the DPS-1570, the OVP unfortunately often shuts down on heavy basses.
On the DPS-2000BB, is that a problem too ?
Because there is no modification to deactivate the OVP...

What kind of 1kOhm pot. is required ? How many Watts ?

The power supply needs cooling fan's, how much airflow is minimal required ?

"Maximum output current for the DPS-2000BB PSU is 164A at 12.2v.
I've personally tested up to 200A at 14.4v (2800w) output !!"

^^- How long was this test-run ?

By the way, the DPS-2000BB power supply has only 4*+ powerpins,
is any pin really designed for up to 42 (50Amps) ??
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 02:49 PM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo1981 View Post
Hello,

unfortunately the 4 MosFET's of the DPS-1570 are more expensive as the DPS-1570 itself. :-(
That's why I've bought two of the DPS-2000BB Rev: S7 power supplys. (one as reserve :-) )

I want to operate the power supply together with an car audio amplifier, is that working ?
On the DPS-1570, the OVP unfortunately often shuts down on heavy basses.
On the DPS-2000BB, is that a problem too ?
Because there is no modification to deactivate the OVP...

What kind of 1kOhm pot. is required ? How many Watts ?

The power supply needs cooling fan's, how much airflow is minimal required ?

"Maximum output current for the DPS-2000BB PSU is 164A at 12.2v.
I've personally tested up to 200A at 14.4v (2800w) output !!"

^^- How long was this test-run ?

By the way, the DPS-2000BB power supply has only 4*+ powerpins,
is any pin really designed for up to 42 (50Amps) ??
Each pin will indeed handle 50A. I only used 6 pins total when I tested up to 200A.

You really don't need an OVP mod for the DPS-2000BB because It will already go up to 14.6V.

I use a 1/4W 1kOhm pot and have no problems.

The DPS-2000BB should not shut down on heavy bass If you are using the same car amplifier. It will have plenty of headroom.
Set It to 14.3V and you should be all set.

The 200A test was done for 10 seconds at which point the PSU started to literally ((((vibrate)))).

Minimal airflow will depend on how hard you drive the PSU.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xandrios View Post
You're right. That mainboard is totally different. If the mainboard doesn't have a location for a switch then you most likely can't wire in one of your own.

You've already tried wiring a switch through A1, B1, B6.

Try also pin B4 to ground through a 500 ohm resistor.

The orange error light comes on after 10 seconds.

That usually indicates a bad tach output from the fan. Do you have any way to test this ?

What DC voltage do you get when it's running ?

Some pin mapping will help. Find all the ground pins.

Find all the 3.3VSB(3.3V standby) pins. All 3.3VSB pins will be connected together so check for DC continuity between them. A true 3.3VSB pin will not drop voltage when slightly loaded(connected to ground through a 200 ohm resistor). A false 3.3VSB pin will drop voltage when slighty loaded.

Find out which pins (if any) raise the main DC output voltage. Connect each pin(one at a time) to the +12V output through a 470 Ohm resistor. Then check for DC output voltage rise.
Also connect each pin(one at a time) to ground through a 470 Ohm resistor. Check again for voltage rise.

Sense pins raise and lower the main DC output voltage. Current share pins only raise the main DC output voltage.
The output voltage of the Current share pin will increase in proportion to the main DC output load.

Compare your results with these two pinouts:




OK I tried grounding B4 with a resistor, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Unit will run for about 10 seconds with 12+V DC, then shut down with yellow light. I can toggle the switch and it will repeat. I had ordered another PSU Friday, so that should be delivered soon. I was thinking of swapping the fan to see if that will fix it? I don't have any other means of testing the tach output...Hoping to avoid that pin mapping

Thanks for all this info!!!
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:22 PM
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power supply pin config.

i have some dell 7000815-Y000 12v 75A power supplies. any idea how to power em up?
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 12:41 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baronthebaron View Post
i have some dell 7000815-Y000 12v 75A power supplies. any idea how to power em up?
That would be the Dell PowerEdge 2800 PSU.

Pinout here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=513
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Hello Gentlemen,

I've just purchased an HP 337867-501 (the same one as in the first post in the thread) and even though I've followed all the instructions about which pins to short, I still only get 6V between the two pairs of blades on the left side and then about 30mV across the blades on the right side. This is the same output that I get even if I don't have the pins shorted. Am I doing something wrong? I should note that the power supply came from a seller that claimed it was 240V only and it has the european C19 plug, although it still works when I have it hooked up to the US 120VAC input with the correct cable. Also, the green light blinks the entire time.

Thanks!
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:27 PM
VOLTS > AMPS
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91 amps and close to 1600 watts for that dell 6800, yeah that'll do
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:38 AM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BilboBandwidth View Post
Hello Gentlemen,

I've just purchased an HP 337867-501 (the same one as in the first post in the thread) and even though I've followed all the instructions about which pins to short, I still only get 6V between the two pairs of blades on the left side and then about 30mV across the blades on the right side. This is the same output that I get even if I don't have the pins shorted. Am I doing something wrong? I should note that the power supply came from a seller that claimed it was 240V only and it has the european C19 plug, although it still works when I have it hooked up to the US 120VAC input with the correct cable. Also, the green light blinks the entire time.

Thanks!
You should have no DC voltage on the main output when the turn-on pins are not shorted.

A difference in voltage between the left and right pins indicates a problem..

The blinking green light should turn solid after shorting the correct pins.



Does the label on the side of your PSU indicate that It accepts 100V-240V input.

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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:51 AM
Steven
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double post
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 07:59 AM
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This may be a little off topic, but I was just wondering if there are any other uses for these high current PSUs besides powering RC battery chargers. Considering the price of these units, it's tempting to buy lots of them but I can't seem to justify the purchases :P
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