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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:42 PM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
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Charles advice got me thinking and I did a search for any more info on the subject. Ron van sommeren has posted a set of links here - useful.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...29&postcount=8

Post #6 includes detailed discussion among some real experts.

John

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Interesting and potentially valuable info Charles/Astrobob. Thanks.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 07:55 PM
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Wellington, NZ
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Originally Posted by linw View Post
I am looking at 3 x HP 511777-001 which look to be DL360 G6 460W PSU's. Are these the same as the ones in the quote?

Which contacts need to be connected to the short one?
I got the three for $NZ106 ($US75) so was pretty pleased. They are much smaller than I thought they would be. Really nice little units. They measure 200x90x40. Hard to believe they can put out 38A @12V!

It is very hard to imagine them putting out ANY amps ATM as I still have to crack the code! Any clues gratefully accepted.

The easy bit - ground is the leftmost large pad top and bottom while +12V is the right one.

The small tabs on the top have one shorter one (5th from left) that reads 0V although it is not a ground. On the bottom there is a longer one (4th) that is gnd.

Top voltages from left are:-
2.47, 0,0,0,11.79,1.95 to 2.01 (cycles)
The 11.97 will almost certainly be the +12V SB that the supply provides.

Bottom voltages are:-
4.37,4.37,4.8,gnd,4.37,4.37

Probably needs three grounded - much harder than finding two!

Back to work!

Edit :- Connect pads 1 and 4 (short one). (Thanks to Keith).
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Last edited by linw; Aug 15, 2010 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Add solution.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 10:12 PM
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Tried lots of combos to no good effect. We usually find the ctrl pads/pins need grounding and the short one is the 'master' as it were. The short one here is already at 0V so can't really see grounding it can be the answer. Is it possible that this PSU needs the short pad pulled up do you think??
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by linw View Post
Tried lots of combos to no good effect. We usually find the ctrl pads/pins need grounding and the short one is the 'master' as it were. The short one here is already at 0V so can't really see grounding it can be the answer. Is it possible that this PSU needs the short pad pulled up do you think??
I'm running a 1200w version of that supply. It's the CS format, so is intended to be compatible with a multitude of different servers. So the jumpers that work in mine should also work with yours.

Mine only needed two of the traces connected. On the top side, the shorter trace (4th from edge) just needs to be connected with the trace at the far edge.

Great power supply. Quiet fan too.

Keith
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 11:41 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Keith. By the trace at the far edge do you mean the 6th pad? Tried that and it didn't work.
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 03:22 AM
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I had a thought, it happens sometimes
Instead of connecting 2 or 3 pins to ground at a time (with a 1K or so resistor in series), test all of the pins at once (with a 1K or so resistor in series). I know it takes a while to make up all the jumpers, but it might take less time than going through all the possible combinations.

M
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 03:27 AM
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You make a good point (presuming this PSU uses the same grounding signal approach as the others). I will rig that up.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 03:54 AM
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Just grounded, via 1K resistors, 10 of the pads at once (omitted 12V SB and ground pads).

No go. It doesn't want to play this game so it looks like there is another game in town. Didn't think it was going to be this hard. But I don't give up easily! Especially since I have three!
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 04:01 AM
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Thanks for the reply, Keith. By the trace at the far edge do you mean the 6th pad? Tried that and it didn't work.
No, I mean the trace at the edge of the pc board. So looking at the rear of the PS, the 1st and 4th traces.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 12:19 AM
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Been away for a few days hence delay. THANKS, Keith, that did it. Having three of them makes me triply grateful!

Thanks to you, Keith, another 'crack' has been added to our collection.

I will add a few words after some email correspondence from my supplier. He says there should be quite a few of these available as many users would have had to upgrade this supply to a more beefy one. He also cautioned about watching their temp as they have small fans and were typically run in enclosures with several large and noisy fans.

Cheers,

Lindsay.

Addendum:- I now realise why I missed this 1 to 4 connection. I had tried all combinations but, early in my testing, I was relying on hearing the fan start up when it turned on. Later I discovered the fan was running all the time but was very very quiet. After this I should have re-tried my earlier combos with the voltmeter attached. Not so clever!
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Iíll describe how I converted a HP PROLIANT DL580/ML570G3 RPS Redundant Power Supply into a 12V 100A charger power supply.
Well, I ordered and received one of these power supplies, but mine came with a 240V socket for input power. This isn't going to do me much good since our power here in the States is primarily 120V.

Does anyone know if I can run this supply on 120V and is there a power cord that will go from 120V to the 240V that I need to plug into the supply?

Thanks!
Chuck
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 12:39 AM
ancora imparo
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Do you mean it came with a PLUG for 240V? That is, a power cord that plugs into the HP supply and has a 240 mains plug on the other end?

If so, just need to cut off the mains plug and replace it with a 3 pin 120V US one. AFAIK all these supplies run on both 110/120 and 240V input. But check the label on the PS first.

If it is a European/UK/Australian/NZ power lead the plugs will vary but the wires will be Brown for Active (Line), Blue for Neutral and Green/Yellow stripe for Ground.

John
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Originally Posted by indyrcpilot View Post
Well, I ordered and received one of these power supplies, but mine came with a 240V socket for input power. This isn't going to do me much good since our power here in the States is primarily 120V.

Does anyone know if I can run this supply on 120V and is there a power cord that will go from 120V to the 240V that I need to plug into the supply?

Thanks!
Chuck
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by linw View Post
I will add a few words after some email correspondence from my supplier. He says there should be quite a few of these available as many users would have had to upgrade this supply to a more beefy one. He also cautioned about watching their temp as they have small fans and were typically run in enclosures with several large and noisy fans.
I really don't think heat is going to be a problem with these units. I've pulled up to 45A from mine (1200W version) and it only just gets warm to the touch. The format is designated CS HE (common slot, high efficiency) and I think the high efficiency tag is probably more than just a sales gimmick. They really don't need large fans & supersonic airflows to strip away gobs of excess heat. I've found the small airflow volume that the fan spits out the front of the unit to be only perceptably warm, at least at the meagre 45amps I'm drawing, anyway.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 11:53 PM
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Thanks for that, Keith. I was trying to figure how to apply a decent test load to check any temp rise. ATM I won't be pulling that many amps but your post is reassuring.

Does yours just have a tiny fan?

BIG contrast with my PS4060 which sounds like a 747 on takeoff!!
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Old Jul 27, 2010, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Do you mean it came with a PLUG for 240V? That is, a power cord that plugs into the HP supply and has a 240 mains plug on the other end?

If so, just need to cut off the mains plug and replace it with a 3 pin 120V US one. AFAIK all these supplies run on both 110/120 and 240V input. But check the label on the PS first.

If it is a European/UK/Australian/NZ power lead the plugs will vary but the wires will be Brown for Active (Line), Blue for Neutral and Green/Yellow stripe for Ground.

John
My power supply didn't come with a cord of any kind. Looking at the label, it appears that it should work on 120V. Normally there is a switch near the plug to go from one to the other. Hopefully the supply will be smart enough to figure it out.

I did find a cord to go from the C-19 connector to the NEMA 5-15P that I need for US 120V.
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=11291

Thanks!
Chuck
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