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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:01 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
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Will do.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 04:54 AM
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USA, TX, Euless
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FWIW I have sold probably over 1,000 DPS 600 power supplies. I have seen a much higher failure rate in the ones with the quiet fan. This have been from the high voltage section of the main board shorting to the chassis. It makes a popping/crackling sound along with the burned electrical smell. They do work well though when they work.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 05:09 AM
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I got another problem with my HP DPS-1200FB A , I connected a 560Ω resister between pin 33 and 36, the power supply powered on, and 12V DC output OK, but the fan speed does not change to fast, so the power supply more and more hot, about 10 min later, I can not touch it,.
Could you advice me how to control the fan speed?
Thanks a lot!
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant View Post
FWIW I have sold probably over 1,000 DPS 600 power supplies. I have seen a much higher failure rate in the ones with the quiet fan. This have been from the high voltage section of the main board shorting to the chassis. It makes a popping/crackling sound along with the burned electrical smell. They do work well though when they work.
Are the failed ones you are referring to DPS-600PBs with the mod to slow the fan down by shorting pins 4 & 8 or putting a resistor in there or are you talking about the temperature controlled units BrushlesHeaven bought, the PS-3601-1C-ROHS or some other ACTUAL temperature controlled mod (shorting pins 4 and 8 or adding a resistor to slow the fan DOES NOT make it temperature controlled)? This is an important distinction, because I would understand the units having a higher fail rate if they do not have a temperature controlled fan in them that was tuned properly. However, if they have a properly tuned tempurature controlled fan it does not seem to me that they should have a higher fail rate as the fan speeds up to keep the internal tempurature of the PSU always running at a safe tempurature. A temperature controlled fan, at least the one I am designing, does not always mean a slower fan, in fact, with the way I am designing it, it will actually run faster (cooler) at its highest setting (i.e. under the heaviest load) than the original highest setting if the fan because I am connecting it to the 12 volt rail instead of where it usually plugs in that is somewhat less than 12 volts. If I remember right it is only like 8 or 9 volts when powered from the fan plug in the PCB. Tuning is also an important part of making a unit that won't fail. This is why I am working so hard to build a variable dummy load to test and tune the fan speed by measuring the internal temperature of each unit at varying levels of current draw from 0 amps all the way up to 50+. But I am finding it is not easy to build a dummy load capable of dissipating 1200+ watts for a sustained length of time because of the heat created in the dummy load. I got some guys in an electronics forum to help me put together an idea of a water cooled dummy load that I think is going to work. Once I get it done I will let you all know.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 08:06 AM
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The units I am speaking of are the ones with the fan in a different locations and the fans are temperature controlled. I have tested them in temps over 100degF and they work fine. The issue seems to be that during manufacture, leads are left poking thru the board long enough to puncture the insulating paper between the board and the chassis, grounding them and killing the supply. This has nothing to do with the fan or its controls and happens even with no load on the supply.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Ah, I see. Thanks for the feedback feathermerchant.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 09:13 AM
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HP DPS-800GB Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by pe9ghz View Post
Thanks very much for that link, Xandrios,
trying to ingest the information on that russian forum
perhaps the replaceing of a 100uF capacitor mentioned there will do the trick. Dryed ElCap sounds very familiar.

Edit: Indeed, when a 100uF 25V capacitor is soldered to the board as shown in the picture in above link, the PS can be brought back to life
When mains is applied, a click is heard, the 3,3V and 5V standby voltages re-appear and the PS can be switched on the usual way.

Now I just have to find a way to replace the failing capacitor in a proper way - It is located in a very unreachable place in the center of the board.

Again, thanks for pointing out that link, Xandrios
This was excellent find since I have 6 of them in our bone yard. I was able to remove the heat sink and, using a Dremel Tool, was able to cut enough of the brass bracket to access the actual caps and still maintain a screw hole for mounting the heat sink. I was able to de-solder the cap and remove it. I had to order the replacement caps and once they are in place, I will test it out and give a status.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Hmm, what location on the main board is this going on please, little more speciffic, picture maybe? I had few of them open, well, I open everyone of them before its sold to clean and have a look at the internal condition including insulating paper and never seen any issues. If you could point me the right direction I would like to pay more atantion to the problem area, just in case....
Thanks
Robert




Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant View Post
The units I am speaking of are the ones with the fan in a different locations and the fans are temperature controlled. I have tested them in temps over 100degF and they work fine. The issue seems to be that during manufacture, leads are left poking thru the board long enough to puncture the insulating paper between the board and the chassis, grounding them and killing the supply. This has nothing to do with the fan or its controls and happens even with no load on the supply.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 11:04 PM
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I'll see if I can take a pic tomorrow. It won't be pretty.
The area is about a third of the way down the board from the AC end.
It's the high voltage section.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Thank You, looking forward to it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant View Post
I'll see if I can take a pic tomorrow. It won't be pretty.
The area is about a third of the way down the board from the AC end.
It's the high voltage section.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Wellington, NZ
Joined Aug 2006
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Dell N750P-So bad experience

Just got a used PSU as above from the NZ equivalent of ebay but it is now kaput. I connected A1 (PSKill) and B6 (PSON) to PB1 (+12V Return) via a low value resistor and the fan came up in a roar. Success, I thought.

I disconnected the resistor from PB1 and went to get the voltmeter when there was a loud 230V type crack. Naturally, it doesn't power up anymore.

What did I do wrong? I don't know where this unit came from but there was a lot of black carbon dust in the fan duct. I wasn't happy about that. Probably should have sent it back without switching it on.

Comments?

The noise was a sharp crack so it could well have been a high voltage arc to case.

Did I do the right jumpers/protocol to power it on? (Have to try for a replacement/refund!).
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Last edited by linw; Aug 31, 2012 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Add note.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 07:00 AM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
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Sorry to hear about that. I got a lot of 10 DPS-600PBs tested each one and one of them did the same thing to me too the second I plugged it in it went pop! Sounds like you got one of the unlucky ones. When I start selling these I am going to test each one under full load before it goes out and guarantee it for a year because of this reason so people will have peace of mind and not have to bear the risk of it failing, I will bear that risk. Sorry to hear about your experience.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 09:06 PM
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Wellington, NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linw View Post
Just got a used PSU as above from the NZ equivalent of ebay but it is now kaput. I connected A1 (PSKill) and B6 (PSON) to PB1 (+12V Return) via a low value resistor and the fan came up in a roar. Success, I thought.

I disconnected the resistor from PB1 and went to get the voltmeter when there was a loud 230V type crack. Naturally, it doesn't power up anymore.

What did I do wrong? I don't know where this unit came from but there was a lot of black carbon dust in the fan duct. I wasn't happy about that. Probably should have sent it back without switching it on.

Comments?

The noise was a sharp crack so it could well have been a high voltage arc to case.

Did I do the right jumpers/protocol to power it on? (Have to try for a replacement/refund!).
Could someone please confirm my turn on procedure was correct?
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 09:37 PM
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Well, I went to the recycler I bought it from and got a replacement with no trouble.

Connected A1, B6, B3 (gnd) and it ran fine. Gave 12.23V unloaded.

Wow, the fan wouldn't let you forget the charger was on! But a reminder is not such a bad thing, especially when you get to my age. This is actually for a fellow club member but he is my age as well!!

Another question - I guess I should strap the grounds (PB1-3) together and the +12V (PB4-6) blades together?
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 12:49 PM
Steven
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United States, CT, East Hartford
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Yup yup...
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