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Old Mar 16, 2009, 02:10 PM
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Foamenator's Avatar
Northern Nevada
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes
I just got back from Wal-Mart. I am outraged, we foamie builders are being targetted by their corporate greed!

The Duck brand Standard clear package sealing tape was $1.87 for single rolls last year, I had to buy a four pack at $8.86 so it works out to $2.22 a roll.

I also bought 94" of 2.85 mm fiber glass leading edge reinforcing rods and that cost me $3.68. That puts the prices of strong leading edges up to almost 4 cents per inch! The rods were packaged and labeled as a SkyDelta 52 poly delta kite. Last year I got about the same amount of rods for $1.87 in a Dora The Explorer kite so here is a cost that has nearly doubled.

Grumble, grumble...

I decided to go with a 3/8" square laminated balsa/CF tail boom for the Tuffy. I had two pieces of 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa and I laid a piece of 12K CF tow in a bed of five minute expoxy on one of the strips and made a sandwich out of it.

It is impressively stiff! Seems to have an equal resistance to flexing both vertically and horizontally. That CF tow at 20 cents a foot is going to be getting more use around here I think.

My traditional method of testing tail booms is to stop the plane quickly (20 MPH or so to zero in milliseconds). I do that by putting the plane in an uncontrolled downward descent with a target altitude of zero feet. The boom usually whips to one side and breaks.

Now I have to decide if I want to have the CF strands in the laminated boom arrayed vertically or horizontally. I think I'll go with horizontal to counter the sideways whips.

Jack
Jack your Tuffy is going to be tremendously strong. I love your testing methods. I've put mine through quite a test process too. Practically every aeronautical move known to man. I can do them all, just not on purpose. A guy watching me fly at the park the other day remarked "he had no idea a plane could do all the things he was seeing" I told him " I didn't either... I was just trying to get the damned thing back on the ground in one piece without hurting anybody". Bob
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 02:20 PM
Geaux Saints
Hopalong X's Avatar
Grafton, Il
Joined Nov 2007
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"I didn't either... I was just trying to get the damned thing back on the ground. I didn't even know it would fly."

That sounds more like me. LOL
Mike
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 11:29 PM
Onward through the fog.
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Bohol Philippines
Joined Aug 2008
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Just got back from Tag with some 22 gauge and 24 gauge magnet wire. I do't believe they had it... I have 2 motors that are dead and will try to rewind them.

This thread has really come alive in the last week or so...

So!!! Where are all the pictures and videos???

Steve.


Edit: March 17 2009 @ 18:09

First!!!
I appologise for being off topic. I know that even though the genesis of Tuffy-Cat is Tuffy related and the plane is made from the old Tuffy it may not really be on topic for this thread so if you want to delete the pictures and stuff go ahead.

Someone asked about a maiden. Well, I'm about ready for a maiden. Maybe even tomorrow and it will be a hand launch. The landing gear that I installed really sucks. It's rubber banded on and will come off tomorrow.

While I'm off topic I'll include a video of my Lil' Buster with the 3s battery. I think it may be of general interest and illustrates the advantage of the additional power you can get with more voltage. I got the best results with a 2s on my original Tuffy with a 10 x4.7 prop. The same motor with the 3s batt and an 8x4 prop flies rings around it. Different plane than a Tuffy, but close to same weight and wing area.

RC: Lil' Buster on 3s. (4 min 15 sec)


If I had known this before I would have never ordered the 2s batteries. My thinking now is to save them for a twin engine future build and "Y" harness them for more current.

Steve.

PS. I do plan to build a "real" Tuffy soon.
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 07:17 AM
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Aug 2003
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I'm hoping to make hobby store today to pick up some balsa or CF spars for the wing and then I'll be done!

jackerbes - thanks for the specs on the 2409! I'm still a bit new at this, and on a budget so I've been scouring the forums and lots of folks seem to like that motor so I went with it and so far it seems to fit the planes I want to fly very well. It's nice to be able to swap equipment around between planes (I'm on a budget!)

Jim
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 08:13 AM
Geaux Saints
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Grafton, Il
Joined Nov 2007
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Cybernaught

Quote
First!!!
I appologise for being off topic. I know that even though the genesis of Tuffy-Cat is Tuffy related and the plane is made from the old Tuffy it may not really be on topic for this thread so if you want to delete the pictures and stuff go ahead.
Quote

It is a Tuffy modded plane.
A "Transformer" that morphed into a new version.
So don't worry about it.

If it flies well, Foamenator will probably build one shortly. LOL

Mike
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 08:26 AM
AMA 14680
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Northern Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopalong X
Quote
First!!!
I appologise for being off topic. I know that even though the genesis of Tuffy-Cat is Tuffy related and the plane is made from the old Tuffy it may not really be on topic for this thread so if you want to delete the pictures and stuff go ahead.
Quote

It is a Tuffy modded plane.
A "Transformer" that morphed into a new version.
So don't worry about it.

If it flies well Foamenator will probably building one shortly. LOL

Mike
Amen brother.... And with blue foam.... Wahoo.... Bob
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 09:15 AM
Geaux Saints
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Grafton, Il
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foamenator
Amen brother.... And with blue foam.... Wahoo.... Bob
LMAO!

I found a monobloc material even I probably can't break.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=2400277

It needs a KFM wing though.
Mike
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 03:37 PM
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Foamenator's Avatar
Northern Nevada
Joined Mar 2007
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Tuffy goes flying

Took Tuffy to the ball field here in my neighborhood. Beautiful day but a little windy. Sorry for the lousy video, but at least I've figured out how to keep the plane in the frame better. Be sure and turn the sound down so you don't hear the camera's gears grinding. Bob

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post11820566
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 06:23 PM
Onward through the fog.
Cybernaught's Avatar
Bohol Philippines
Joined Aug 2008
1,566 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foamenator
Took Tuffy to the ball field here in my neighborhood. Beautiful day but a little windy. Sorry for the lousy video, but at least I've figured out how to keep the plane in the frame better. Be sure and turn the sound down so you don't hear the camera's gears grinding. Bob

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post11820566
Hey Bob,

Just watched your video. I can't swear to it but it looked like that lamp pole moved about 5 feet to the right and snagged your Tuffy on purpose.

I think it's part of a worldwide conspiracy between tall vertical objects! The coco trees do the same thing in the Philippines. We need an investigation.

Otherwise it looks like you have it pretty much dialed in.
Thanks for sharing.

Steve.


PS.
An afterthought.
Warning!!!
When you use the same transmitter with several recievers in different planes be sure to set the servo directions for the plane you're currently flying. It's ok. The vertical stabilizer is glued back on.
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 06:26 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,690 Posts
My Tuffy Build, Part 1...

Cybernaught wrote:

"..So!!! Where are all the pictures and videos???..."

I have had the camera handy as I built, so here goes. I'll do this about 10 photos at a time to break it up some. The numbers are the number of the photos referenced.

01 - I cut out the monobloc. This is Dow 2" thick Performance Board III (PB III) insulation cut from a 2" X 2' x 8' sheet (about $18 at Lowes).

02 - Cutting the wing parts, material is Dow fan fold PB III, comes in a bundle of 25 pieces of 24" x 48" foam (about $35 a bundle at Lowes). Igt is called FFF most of the time. Has a plastic coating on one side that can be peeled off it desired. I leave it on and arrange cutting so that the plastic is on the outside of the fuselage or wing as much as possible. Template is used to make the curring marks on the plastic side of the foam.

03 - Turn template over to cut opposite hand parts, FFF cuts better with plastic side up. Cuts are made against the straight edges (18 inch rule and aluminum sheet rock T-Square).

04 - Typical cutting marks, this is the wing hold down notch on the tuffy wing.

05 - Make cuts with a series of light passes and knife angled back from vertical, put the straight edge on the part so that if the cut goes bad it is on the scrap, not the part.

06 - Stabilizers laid out for cutting from the scrap pile leftover pieces.

08 - Parts for two Tuffys cut, two wings, two KFm strips. The wing panels will be left in one piece, the KFm strip will be split later when it is mounted.

09 - Dihedral braces on 1/4" x 3/8" x 21" basswood spars. Matching bevel sanded on end of spars at center joint.

10 - Total dihedral (2 inches, 1 inch per side) is set with height gage, cardboard cylinder can be rolled to adjust it precisely.

11 - One spar flat to table and weighted down, dihedral braces glued on with five minute epoxy.

12 - Spar finished.

To be continued...

Jack
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 06:34 PM
Onward through the fog.
Cybernaught's Avatar
Bohol Philippines
Joined Aug 2008
1,566 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes
Cybernaught wrote:

"..So!!! Where are all the pictures and videos???..."

I have had the camera handy as I built, so here goes. I'll do this about 10 photos at a time to break it up some. The numbers are the number of the photos referenced.

01 - I cut out the monobloc. This is Dow 2" thick Performance Board III (PB III) insulation cut from a 2" X 2' x 8' sheet (about $18 at Lowes).

02 - Cutting the wing parts, material is Dow fan fold PB III, comes in a bundle of 25 pieces of 24" x 48" foam (about $35 a bundle at Lowes). Igt is called FFF most of the time. Has a plastic coating on one side that can be peeled off it desired. I leave it on and arrange cutting so that the plastic is on the outside of the fuselage or wing as much as possible. Template is used to make the curring marks on the plastic side of the foam.

03 - Turn template over to cut opposite hand parts, FFF cuts better with plastic side up. Cuts are made against the straight edges (18 inch rule and aluminum sheet rock T-Square).

04 - Typical cutting marks, this is the wing hold down notch on the tuffy wing.

05 - Make cuts with a series of light passes and knife angled back from vertical, put the straight edge on the part so that if the cut goes bad it is on the scrap, not the part.

06 - Stabilizers laid out for cutting from the scrap pile leftover pieces.

08 - Parts for two Tuffys cut, two wings, two KFm strips. The wing panels will be left in one piece, the KFm strip will be split later when it is mounted.

09 - Dihedral braces on 1/4" x 3/8" x 21" basswood spars. Matching bevel sanded on end of spars at center joint.

10 - Total dihedral (2 inches, 1 inch per side) is set with height gage, cardboard cylinder can be rolled to adjust it precisely.

11 - One spar flat to table and weighted down, dihedral braces glued on with five minute epoxy.

12 - Spar finished.

To be continued...

Jack

Thanks Jack,

I love the building sequences because I always learn something by seeing how other modelers do things.
Nice set of pics.

I just can't be that organized myself. I have a couple of rusty razor knives and some sand paper and that's about it. I do cobble together some building jigs for repeat stuff. My tools don't get rusty due to laziness but the nature of the weather and living next to the beach. I clean and oil regularly but it doen't help much, here. My technique basically is based on the concept that what ever is easiest and fastest is the best way. When I buy new tools they seem to get used once or twice and then just collect dust.

Most of you are artists and I'm the butcher in the group!!!

Steve.
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 06:42 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,690 Posts
My Tuffy Build, Part 2...

13 - KFm strips are taped on, folded back, and a line is traced for use in locating the spar.

14 - Close up of wing root, notice the black 2 mm fibreglas rods that will be on the leading edge when the wing is finished.

15 - Piece of CF 12K tow (about 12,000 loose CF strands) is cut to about 46" long. On one side of the wing (not both sides!) spread a 1/4"wide bead of epoxy just to the rear of the line marking the back of the KFm strip. The CF tow is laid onto the epoxy, spread to about 1/4" wide, and pressed into it with a popsicle stick. Then the spar is placed on the CF tow aligning it with the KFm strip mark.

16 - Wing and spar on a flat surface, and weighted down to keep the spar straight and flat.

17 - The spar has already been glued to the other end of wing has already been done in this photo.

18 - Both sides glued, the dark areas under the spar are not gaps, those are places where the CF tow is visible.

19 - Preparing to glue the KFm strips down. Two filler strips are cut from scraps, one is about 1-1/4" wide and the second about 3/8" wide. One will be placed a little behind the leading edge to support the KFm strip and help form the curve on the leading edge. The other will be up against the spar and glued to the wing top, the face of the spar, and the KFm strip. That area will fill with the foaming PU

When joining two parts, put the PU on one (I use Gorilla Glue, both the regular and Quick) and spritz the mating surface or part lightly with water. That is essential to getting the foaming action and maximum strength.

20, 21 - Filler strips in position. PU is applied from the bottle and spread with a plastic spreader (like a credit card or cut from a plastic can lid). The brush is used to place dabs for spreading and to get the glue into corners. Put glue on face of spar and the backs of the strips, spritz, put strips down. Put glue on top of the strips and spread it.

22 - Fold the KFm strip over and place a flat straight board on it and hold it down with weights. Look under and make sure board is level on top of spar and KFm strip has popped up against the board. You can put a piece of waxed paper or baking parchment on top of the KFm strip and spar before you lay the board on to keep from gluing the board to the wing.

23 - First side glued. The spar had shifted back 1/16" or so, there is a gap there between the KFm strip and the face of the spar but that will be filled later. It is not a problem.

24 - Second side is glued up.

To be continued...

Jack
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 06:49 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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My Tuffy Build, Part 3...

25 - Filler pieces are cut from scraps and cut shaped and tapered to fill the open areas on the wing tips. Quick PU was used there and the end were sanded to round them and square the ends vertically.

26 - Finished wing tip.

27 - A 3/8" wide filler strip of FFF (with plastic peeled off) was glued to the top of the spar and up against the back edge of the KFm strip. The KFm strip was slightly higher than the spar and the filler strip was cut and sanded flush with the top of the wing. Two layers of peeled FFF were used to make a filler block, a tongue depressor was glued on top of that, and that strengthens and fills the area where the rubber bands will cross the back of the wing.

28, 29 - Wing was covered with colored package sealing tape, ailerons were cut, cut edges were beveled and covered with tape again. Then colored package sealing tape was used to make full length hinges for the ailerons.

31 - Boom is made with two strips of 3/16" x 3/8" balsa and CF tow. One strip has 3/8" face coated with 5 minute epoxy, CF tow is laid on, spread, and pressed down into the epoxy. Then second strip is laid on, the baking parchment is folded around the boom for a close tight fit to contain and smooth the epoxy.

The boom design seen here is not good. It is too weak. It snapped off flush with the fuselage in a minor lawn darting incident. It was repaired by sistering a 3/8" square basswood strip to the bottom if it. I recommend a 3/8" square basswood spar at a minimum, 1/2" would be better. You can see the repair here.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=293

32 - The wrapped boom is held up against a straight edge by the batteries, the square resting on top of the boom will be weight down with another battery, and all that keep the boom both flat and straight.

33 - Finished boom. Smooth, straight and quite rigid. Compared to a 3/8" square basswood boom, this one is both lighter and more rigid.

41 - Layout for boom slot, 3/8" wide, cuts made to about 3/8" deep. Slot is routed to depth using a coarse toothed cylindrical burr in a Dremel tool.

42 - A servo tray was made with 1/8" birch plywood and the size, shape, and location of the servo box shown on the plans was revised a little and cut out of the monobloc. This 2" blue board is kind of crumbly in the interior and does not cut real nicely. I cut that hole by drilling 1/4" holes near the interior corners with a brass tube drill and then I used a jig saw to cut the recess.

The brass thin wall tube drills have small teeth cut in one end and are turned by hand or with a drill motor or drill press. They are great for cutting cable and ventilaton troughs in foam. I have three of them, 1/4", 1/2" and 5/8". When using them, stop and push the foam out of the tube with a long rod or they may jam up. If you are drilling all the way through, back up the spot where the drill will come out with a scrap of foam and it will leave a nice round hole.

To be continued...

Jack
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 07:04 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,690 Posts
My Tuffy Build, Part 4...

43 - Here is my servo tray fitted. It worked out that the tops of the servos are pressing against the top of the opening and putting enough pressure on it to hold it in place. If that changes any, I will hot glue the servo tray in that position later.

44 - The 5/8" tube drill is resting on a block that is the right height to put it on the centerline of the monobloc, the angle of hole I want to drill is marked on the block of wood, and I turn that by hand to cut a passage for the sevo leads.

45 - Now there is a passage to get the servo lead up to the receiver box which will be on top of the monobloc and under the wing.

46 - I drill a series of overlapping holes 2" deep on top of the monobloc. Then I use a coarse ball ended wood routing bit in a Dremel too to open up the receiver box area. I leave fairly thick walls there as I am concerned about removing too much foam beneath the wing and weakening that area. The finished receiver box will be seen in a later photo.

47 - I use the 1/4" hole drill to drill a hole for the pushrods to exit the fuselage.

My intention is to use DuBro #847 Micro Push Rods to hook up the control surfaces. Those come complete with Mini EZ connectors which can go on the horns at the control surfaces. And the push rods and sheaths are flexible enough to be mounted here while, at the same time, be rigid enough for this use.

I have the servos mounted with the arms pointing at each other and I think the one 1/4" hole will be large enough for to work here. I'll enlarge it later if necessary.

48 - The pushrod hole and back of the boom mounting slot. Notice the sort of crumbly character of the foam there.

50 - The routed out receiver box is seen here. This is the setup I'll use for gluing the boom in place with Gorilla Quick PU. The clamps hold the monobloc vertical to the bench top, the boom and monobloc are flush down against the workbench and will be on a piece of baking parchment so I don't glue anything to the bench top.

51 - Baking parchment in place, boom given a good coat of Quick PU on top and sides, boom slot is spritzed with water, and it is all held in place and weighted down.

52 - Boom mounted. Not pretty but strong and a nice flush finish. Not how the spritzing action spread out in a nice even layer on the bottom of the monobloc. A little sanding will clean up the edges.

That where I am as of now, to be continued later...

Jack
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Old Mar 17, 2009, 08:57 PM
Geaux Saints
Hopalong X's Avatar
Grafton, Il
Joined Nov 2007
1,913 Posts
Jack

Wow!

Have you been busy or what!
I think we have a build log now. LOL
Great job.
Should have known after the great Zagnut build log.
Thanks.
Mike


Foamenator

I have to add Jacks build guide to the Tony sticky.

Done
Complete build guide by Jackerbes -Post #130
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