|Great Planes P-6E Hawk ARF (1 min 52 sec)|
|Wing Area:||352 sq in|
|Weight Range:||3.75-4.5 lbs|
|Servos:||Four Micro Futaba S3115|
|Transmitter:||Futaba T14MZAP 2.4 GHz|
|Receiver:||Futaba R617FS 2.4 GHz|
|Battery:||Great Planes 11.1V 3S 2200mAh LiPo|
|Motor:||Rimfire .32 42-50-800 Outrunner Brushless|
|ESC:||Silver Series 45 Amp Brushless 5V/2A BEC|
|Available From:||Fine Hobby Stores Every Where Tower Hobbies|
The Curtiss P-6E Hawk looks so beautiful in its "Snow Owl" color scheme that it surprises people when I tell them that it is a replica of the color scheme used by the 17th Pursuit Squadron when the plane was on active duty. Great Planes has done a wonderful job of duplicating the color scheme in all of its colors and beauty. The plane is as beautiful in static display as she is when flying. Her size allows me to transport her to the flying field fully assembled and ready to fly. She only needs a 3-cell 11.1V 2200mAh 30C battery pack to power the recommended Rimfire .32 outrunner brushless motor that easily mounts to the planes motor mounting box. I can happily have multiple flights using the battery packs I already own.
Great Planes previously sold a larger version of this plane as an ARF with a 76" wingspan. I was able to see one of them fly at a Northern CA fly-in and I almost negotiated its purchase when the owner decided he enjoyed the plane too much to sell it. When I saw the advance announcement for this smaller electric version of the plane in the same eye catching color scheme I knew I was going to have to get one. I was lucky enough to get one to review so stick with me as I get her assembled and flying. I am glad she is an ARF because I can hardly wait to get her in the air.
Additional Items Needed
Tools & Glue
The P-6E Hawk and variants were the last biplane fighter planes built for the U. S. Army Air Corp. A prototype of this plane, the XP-6 was flown at the 1927 United States National Air Races and took 2nd place. 46 models of the P6E variant were delivered to the military at a cost of $13,000 apiece when new. The plane served in pursuit squadrons from 1932-1937. At least 27 of the 46 models were destroyed by accidents and there is only one remaining today. It was donated to the Smithsonian and is on loan to the U. S. Nation Museum of the United States Air Force at Wright-Patterson AFB in Ohio. It is on display in the "Snow Owl" color scheme and markings that has been replicated on this Great Plane's model. These markings were used by the 17th Pursuit Squadron. This variant had a top speed of 204 miles per hour while another version average 266 mph in a flight from Dayton Ohio to Washington DC in 1932. For combat the plane carried 2 x 7.62 machine guns.
The parts came individually bagged and the smaller parts were also boxed as was the fuselage at both ends to keep it in place inside the box. The decorative box came inside of a very stout brown cardboard box. My first step was to use scissors and carefully cut the tape to get the parts out one at a time and carefully remove them from their bags.
I got out my covering iron to tighten up the covering but the covering on the wings and tail components was nice and tight overall and there were only two spots needing attention. l needed to tighten the covering in a few more spots after the plane had been assembled.
I read through the instructions before I start assembly and when a plane has some decals I check and see if they can wait and be installed after construction or if it will be easier to do it before assembly. I decided it would be easier for me to install the decals before I started construction. I can reach inside the cockpit for the instrument decal and lay most of the parts flat on the table and install the decals more easily now than later. Accordingly, I installed the decals before I started the formal assembly process. FYI: The decals are Peel N Stick contrary to the instruction manual.
The instruction manual is excellent and I only did a few steps out of sequence because it seemed easier for me that way. The instructions are on line and can be viewed by clicking on the this link. Instrucrion Manual
The parts are nicely constructed and the covering is beautiful. There are a lot of T-Nuts already installed at the factory to help simplify and speed up assembly.
|Great Planes P-6E Hawk Assembly (12 min 2 sec)|
The first assembly is installing the aileron servos into the wing. They recommend starting with the right wing side first as the pictures in the manual are of the right side and thus they will look just like the first aileron servo that gets installed.
|Operating Speed||(4.8V): 0.15 sec/60°|
|Output Torque (4.8V):||38.9 oz-in.|
|Dimensions:||x 0.51"x 1.16"|
|Designed For:||Small Powered Models|
|Operating Voltage:||4.8 Volts|
I prepared my servos by removing three of the four servo arms from each servo and installing the grommets and eyelets into the servo. I enlarged the outer hole of the servo arm using my 5/64" drill bit. I added a nine inch servo extension wire to each of these servos and secured it in place with tape. I tied the string from inside the wing to the servo extension wire and pulled the string to get the wire out the exit hole near the center of the wing.
I placed the right servo on the servo hatch cover and aligned the servo so the the control arm was centered in the hatch opening as shown in the instruction manual. Next using Great Planes six minute epoxy I glued two wooden blocks on either side of the servo and under the mounting blocks on the servo as shown in the picture below. Using my 1/16" drill bit I drilled holes into the blocks using the servo mounting tabs as guides. I secured the servo to the two mounting blocks. I used the screws that came with the servos for this.
kwa 001.jpg:The picture of the servo mounted to the cover from the instruction manual. Part of the excellent manual.
With the servo mounted on the servo bay hatch cover I tied the string to the end of the servo wire and taped it facing forward. I snagged the string at the central hole closest to the servo bay and pulled the string and wire out through that hole.
Next I used a hatch cover mounting washer head screw ( 2 x 3/8") and screwed it through the hatch cover into the mounting holes. I removed the screw and the hatch cover and used thin CA to harden the holes. When the glue was dry I secured the hatch cover in place with 4-screws and thereby the aileron servo in place as shown in the picture on pages 6 & 7 of the manual. I repeated the process on the left side of the wing.
I installed the control horns onto the ailerons per the instructions on page 7. They are mounted in line with the servo arms into some hard wood in the aileron. I next threaded a nylon clevis 20-turns onto a 6" wire push rod and repeated the process for the other side. I slid on a silicon clevis retainer onto both clevises and connected them to the top hole on the aileron control horn. Next I very carefully measured and marked the control rod where it should be bent with the aileron in the neutral position to go through the servo control horn. I then bent the wire at the mark 90 degrees. I cut the pushrod 3/8" past the bend and put it through the control arm and secured it with a nylon Fastlink. I repeated the process on the other half of the wing.
There are two main landing gear struts and they are bolted onto the bottom of the fuselage with two bolts per strut into mounts already in the fuselage. Each bolt got a locking washer and a regular washer. I positioned the straight edge of one of the landing gear facing forward and secured it with two of the bolt/washer combinations securely to the bottom of the fuselage. I repeated the process for the second side. Next a small flat piece of wood was epoxied to the outside of the strut and an angled piece of wood to the inside of the strut as shown in the instructions. I used six minute epoxy and applied it to the wood with a toothpick and let it start to set up for about two minutes and then installed them in place and let them dry.
With the wood parts secured and the epoxy set a few minutes later I started to trial fit the landing cuffs in place on the struts. When I was happy with the position of the cuffs I took them off, mixed up some glue and let it set for about two minutes. I them applied the glue only onto the wood on the struts and fit the cuffs over them and held them in place for about two minutes exactly where I wanted them as the glue started to set up. The cuffs are only glued to the struts and the struts can be removed from the fuselage should that ever prove necessary.
The bottom wing came fully assembled. I attached the decals to the bottom of the wing in pre-assembly. Here they start with gluing in a pin in the front of the wing that will fit into a space for it in the fuselage. When the glue was dry I trial fitted it into the fuselage and temporarily secured it with the nylon bolts supplied for that purpose.
The next step is mounting the outer wing struts onto the lower wing. I carefully looked at the instructions and determined which were the top wing brackets and which were the bottom brackets. The bottom of the outer strut is 2 1/2" apart while the top is 3". I bolted the brackets to the bottom holes of the strut with 4, 4-40 x 5/16 machine screws with 4-40 locking nuts. I mounted the brackets to the lower wing with 4 more of those 4-40 x 5/16 machine screws.
With the struts mounted to the bottom wing I next installed the brackets for the top wing onto the top of the struts. The process was the same as for the lower brackets except the brackets are a slightly different shape.
I next temporarily mounted the center Cabane struts to the bottom side of the top wing. Photos on page 10 of the instructions show how to install the struts. The top wing is mounted temporarily to the outer struts so measurement can be made on the fuselage for where to drill the mounting holes for the center Cabane struts. They caution not to distort or twist the wings during this process. With the fuselage marked for the Cabane mounting holes I removed the top wing and the Cabane struts from the top wing but being sure to keep them properly left and right.
On the marks in the fuselage I used a 3/32" drill bit and my drill to drill out the wood. I next used a 1/8" x 3/8" washer head screw to make threads in the screw holes. With the screws out the holes were hardened with thin CA.
The tail pieces came already assembled, covered and hinged. I merely had to glue them in place and install the control horns. I decided to install the control horns before gluing them in place. The instruction manual discussed trimming off excess covering to give a good surface for the glue to attach to wood on the stabilizers and the fuselage. The vertical stabilizer came with the covering not on the wood that goes into the fuselage perfectly. The horizontal stabilizer could have been installed as it came but I trimmed off a sliver of covering. After trial fitting the pieces and the control rods in place I measured and marked for the installation of the control horns. I took the parts out of the fuselage, drilled at the marks and installed the control horns. On the rudder the pin for steering the tail wheel is positioned in the rudder with my screw holes for the rudder control horn on both sides of the pin. There is a hinge on the tail wheel control that was glued into the fuselage following the instructions.
With the control surfaces installed it was time to install the servos into the fuselage to control the rudder and elevator. The servos are prepared by cutting off three of the servo arms and expanding the outer hole on the fourth to 5/64" just as was done with the aileron servos above. They fit into the back of the area under the cockpit facing the front. I hand drilled mounting holes with a 1/16" drill bit and secured the servos in place. The control rods with clevises attached were installed from the back of the fuselage and I bent the control rods per instructions to attach to the control horns. Two bends for the elevator and one for the rudder. I then marked the control rods at the servo arms and bent them up 90 degrees. I cut off excess control rod and secured them to the servo arms with Fastlinks.
I attached some hook and loop material to the bottom of my Futaba receiver and attached it in front of the servos to the bottom of the battery tray. I connected the rudder, elevator servos, a Y-harness for the ailerons and the controller from the ESC.
The ESC was also mounted to the bottom of the battery tray. Here I glued some hook and loop material under the motor mount and back under the front of the fuselage. I installed the ESC bringing it forward from the lower wing saddle opening. With matching hook and loop material I attached it under the battery tray half in the motor mount and 1/2 in the front of the fuselage. I initially but the wires through the side of the motor mount as shown in the instruction but quickly switched to the bottom from of the motor mount as shown in the motor mount pictures.
div class = "leftside">
Silver Series 45A
|Type:||Brushless Motor Controller|
|Max Output Power:||500 Watts|
|Thermal Cutoff:||230 degrees F|
|BEC Handles:||3-4 Standard Servos|
I assembled the motor per the instructions that came with using the supplied hardware. The motor shaft was mounted using four bolts and some LockTight and an Allen wrench. The mount was secured to the back of the motor with four bolts and LockTight. I mounted it to the motor mount with four bolts, locking washers and washers that came in the plane kit. They screwed into T-nuts that came attached in the front of the motor mount. Again, LockTight was used. I positioned the motor so the the wires were facing down.
<div class = "leftside">
|Motor specs||Electrifly Rimfire .32<br>|
|Type: Brushless Outrunner<br>|
|Motor Weight 198g<br>|
|Output Shaft Size: 5mm x 17.5mm<br>|
|BATTERY: 8s-9s Lipo<br>|
|Amp draw: 15-24A max<br>|
|Prop: APC 13 x 6.5 electric<br>|
|Voltage Used: 11.1-14.8V<br>|
|Maximum Surge Current: 80A<br>|
|Maximum Surge Power: 1480W|
|Speed Control: 45A Brushless|
I connected the ESC wires to the motor wires and temporarily attached a propeller. I briefly ran the motor at slow speed to confirm I had it wired correctly to the ESC and then I tucked the excess wire into the space in the motor mount behind the firewall. The motor assembly was complete and I removed the propeller.
Four 2 1/2 strips of masking tape are placed on the cowl mounts and run back onto the fuselage. A line down the middle was drawn to show the center line for the cowl mounting screws. I trial fitted the cowl in place and test fitted the propeller to make sure it would have clearance. Following the instruction I drilled a 5/64" hole into a cowl mount and drilled in a 3/32" wood screw. I removed it and confirmed it was properly located and hardened the screw hole threads with thin CA. I repeated the process until the cowl was mounted. After drilling the last hole I removed the masking tape from the fuselage.
The main landing gear axles are screwed into place on the main gear struts and then secured in place with an axle nut with the flat space on the end of the axle facing down. An inner wheel collar was installed and tightened into place so that the outer collar after the wheel would be near the end of the axle. To do this I fit the wheel and the outer collar onto the axle. With the inner collar secure I secured the outer collar with the set screw going into the flat spot. I repeated the process with the other main strut.
Fiberglass wheel pants slide over the axle area and the tire and axle and are secured in place with two bolts, locking washers and flat washers. The first one was easy to install on both sides. It was very difficult to start the second bolt on both sides. If I had it to do over I would ream out the holes a bit on the strut to make the initial alignment easier to obtain. The bolts only screw into the pants anyway and just slide through the strut.
The tail wheel is secured to the tail wheel axle with two smaller collars and even smaller set screws.
I glued the turtle deck onto the fuselage starting just behind the cockpit. I used the recommended Formula 500 glue for the turtle deck and the windshield that was glued in front of the cockpit. I used masking tape to secure both in place while this slow drying glue set up.
The last part of the "Build" was getting the aileron wires into the fuselage. The instructions show cutting a small channel behind the rear Cabane struts in the top of the fuselage for the wires. I chose to cut small slots to plug the wires through about 1/4 inch lower. I have pictures from the instruction manual and my version below. I plugged the aileron wires into the Y-harness inside the fuselage. I secured the wires above the fuselage to the cabane struts with two strips of black tape per side as shown below.
No pilot is included in the kit. As an option they recommend: Great Planes pilot 1/7 military painted # GPMQ9117. I had a spare pilot from an earlier project and I glued him in the cockpit as my optional pilot. They also recommend an optional decorative propeller spinner that looks nice in their promotional material # GPMQ4631.
The C/G's recommended located is 3" behind the leading edge of the top wing. I decided that was an excellent place to start. There is a long battery compartment inside the fuselage and that allows for a lot of possible shifting of the battery to obtain the proper C/G balance. The recommend battery pack is the 3-cell 11.1V 2200mAh pack. With Hook and Loop material glued to the battery tray and attached to the bottom of the battery. I have obtained balance at the recommend C/G with my 3-cell 2200mAh battery pack mounted half into the motor mount and half in the area covered by the battery compartment hatch cover. There is a lot of space between the servos and where i have my battery pack so a larger battery pack can probably be used. I have been so happy with the recommend pack and have several of them i plan to fly just using the recommend battery pack.
The instruction manual also recommends to check for lateral balance and as an RC sailplane pilot I am used to doing this on all my planes. The lateral balance on mine was good so nothing needed to be adjusted.
Dual Rates are recommended in the instruction manual and I have programmed them into my transmitter. I have also added 20% Expo to the ailerons and elevator to help keep me smooth.
DUAL RATES: Low High
The hatch cover is secured with two pins in front and magnets in the back. It is pulled back a bit as the front fits under the cowl. I bring it out to the front and install the battery pack from the front to avoid the windshield.
The plane has a pretty wide speed range and doesn't have to be flown as fast as I thought might be the case due to her weight and small size. I like to mix up my speeds when flying and when doing so I can safely fly ten minutes with time left for an emergency go around or two if necessary. For flights at just high speed I limit my time to eight or nine minutes which is very good for a 2200 mAh battery. There are only the four basic controls of ailerons, elevator, rudder and throttle. Turns using just ailerons can demonstrate some yaw while involving the rudder in the turns does smooth them out. If your transmitter allows for coupling the rudder to the ailerons I recommend doing so for smoother more realistic turns. This should be on a transmitter switch of course so that the coupling can be turned off for performing acrobatics.
At a safe altitude I attempted some stalls both in straight and turning flight. In straight flight as I slow her down I can feel her becoming mushy. When she does stall it is just a straight forward drop and then she levels off after she has picked up a little speed. These stalls are almost like those of a good trainer plane. Noe stalls in a turn can start a quick wicked turning spin and I won't be doing that again any time soon. I will not try to turn her if I am close to the ground and flying very slowly. Again I won't be flying her that slowly anyway but did so for this review. Forward stalls better than most planes stalls on turns as bad as most planes.
I punched the throttle a couple of times while flying slowly at altitude and a friend did one as well. The result is a torque turn to the left of 90 degrees plus or minus depending how slowly she was flying when the rapid throttle was applied. Control is lost when this happens until she gains some speed and has air flowing over the control surfaces. Don't go from 1/2 throttle to maximum throttle instantly. No problems when punching to full throttle from 2/3 or 3/4 throttle to full throttle. Based on this experience at altitude I would not recommend punching the throttle to full for a takeoff.
Normal basic flying is excellent with the Hawk especially when using a bit of rudder along with the ailerons in turns. She is a very nice flying plane.
Takeoffs should be made into the wind. I have only flown from hard dirt and pavement and have had no difficulties in taking off. She should be able to handle short trimmed grass without any problems but longer grass may prove difficult and might cause nose overs. I like to accelerate up to take off speed somewhat slowly for a more scale like takeoff. I am always prepared to add right rudder to counteract motor torque which is common with tail draggers. The quicker I have accelerated I have found the more likely I am to experience the engine torque pull to the left. That said reasonable takeoff runs into the wind with scale like speed build up have all been uneventful and fun to do and watch.
I do three leg landings with a down wind leg, cross wind leg and final. The plane needs to land with power on but slowing down. I can almost feet the drag pulling her down as she slows down to land so I keep the nose level or slightly down and then level just before touching down on the two main wheels. If a landing has to be aborted after slowing down I am ready with right rudder as I increase the throttle in case of motor torque. If I don't plan ahead I may make a mistake should a problem arise. Once she settle on her mains I can reduce the throttle and she then settles onto the tail wheel as she slows down. She taxis nicely and is easy to steer on hard surfaces with the rudder linked tail wheel.
I found rolls and loops are best performed with 3/4's to full throttle at the start and then ease back when appropriate. Loops can be started from level flight but are better and can be bigger after a slight dive. Rolls are best started with a slight climb. Performs very nice S rolls, tail slides and spins. Try any aerobatics you wish but give your self some altitude for safety on the first couple of attempts. She has performed all the early aerobatics I have performed with WWI biplanes and she performs them in what looks to me to be a very scale like fashion. She also does a very nice spin and inverted flight. I recommend using a timer because it is easy to have some much fun you can forget the time after the first few flights. Fortunately I have a number of the 3-cell 2200mAh packs she uses.
Not in my opinion. The plane is an excellent flyer with no bad habits but it is not a trainer plane and there is a greater chance of damaging the lower wing in a bad landing than the high wing of a trainer plane. Additionally, with the multiple colors of the covering, repairing any damage and obtaining the initial great looks might be difficult. I recommend this plane for intermediate pilots and above.
|Great Planes P-6E Hawk RC (5 min 29 sec)|
This kit makes one of the nicest looking RC planes around. She is not only beautiful she is a great flyer! I set the control surfaces level and the balanced the plane on the recommended C/G and none of the control surfaces needed even a single click of trim. I can't remember when that last happened if ever. Forward stalls can be anticipated when flying too slowly as she starts to feel mushy and the drops slightly to pick up speed and all is right with the world. She makes very scale looking rolls and loop from small to large. Flying at a reasonable speed to full out control feels perfect and she responds to my transmitter commands perfectly. Flight time on a 3-cell 2200mAh 30C battery pack is nine minutes with mixed speed and there is spare time for a go around. Takeoffs into the wind have been nice and landings should be into the wind with some speed as she can really become a bit draggy with throttle too low. She feels to fly like she should except a bit easier. I have had two friends fly her during this review and they both described her as one of the nicest planes I have reviewed. They said that in separate private conversations with me totally unaware of what the other thought of the plane. I must say the three of us our in complete agreement.
I know I will periodically need to tighten the covering with my heat shrink iron but keeping the plane in the shade or under a white towel has helped keep the wrinkles down since the first trip to the field. Watch the videos and if you like what you see and you balance her where directed you will also love how she handles. Great Planes has a wonderful flyer with their P-6E Hawk.
I want to thank Hobbico and Great Planes for supplying this kit and the named parts for this review. I want to thank our editor for her assistance with the review and I want to thank Chris for his assistance in helping me get the media for this review.Last edited by Michael Heer; Jul 27, 2014 at 10:17 PM..
|Aug 25, 2014, 11:49 AM|
Hemet, California, United States
Joined Aug 2001
Wow, great review. I didn't think I would be interested in this one but your great pictures and video have me wanting this on the "List." As always, great work Mike.
|Aug 25, 2014, 12:24 PM|
Thanks for the kind words. I knew this plane would be a good looker but I was a little surprised (I don't know why?) that she is as excellent a flyer as she is. This is a very fun plane to fly! You won't be disappointed with how she handles! Mike H
|Aug 26, 2014, 09:22 AM|
Very nice review. Plane looks like it flies very well. I know there were some worries expressed in the ARF forum thread about how well it would fly because of the relatively high wing loading. Again, a great job in reviewing the plane.
|Aug 27, 2014, 03:59 PM|
I'm flying one of the original prototypes. There are some differences, as it's quite a bit heavier than production, and the battery hatch is in a different location. Production items are lighter, and the hatch was relocated so you can get the battery in the right place. Due to that, plus the use of a slightly smaller motor (an ounce less, I had it on hand) I've added quite a bit of added weight in the cowl plus I'm using a 4S/3800mah battery. Still flies very well slowly and lands like a dream. Of course my setup will also accelerate vertically, hover, rolling loops,..etc. but that's not really the intent of this plane <G>
|Aug 30, 2014, 06:19 PM|
Michael Heer has done a fine review of this model, from flight characteristics right down to the last nuts and bolts.
I am disappointed that he did not report that the wing area is not 352 sq" and is actually 452 sq" (as confirmed by Hitec). However, I suspect this is due to a simple syntax error in the Hitec documentation. It doesn't appear to affect any of the other data parameters.
Several threads have already been started on this particular subject (including one of my own). Michael's presentation is far the best for others interested in this plane and it's always best to consolidate our subjects.
From here on I'll report to this thread on my build, with it's somewhat unique power system.
|Sep 03, 2014, 03:47 PM|
Liquid Hawk Power
This is my power set-up for the Hawk:
- Liquid Chiller: AEO coil/pump.
- Header Tank: Sullivan 1oz Flex Slant.
- Water Jacket, Aquacraft AQUB548 28mm CNC.
- Motor: Ammo 28mm 45mm 3600kV.
- Gearbox: Great Planes 28mm Planetary, 4.3 - 1.
- ESC: Castle Creations Talon 90.
- Lipos: Thunder Power 2700mAh70C G6 4s.
- Prop: Xoar PJN 13 x 8.
The Motor, Jacket and Coil/Pump
The gearbox is mounted directly to the same Great Planes X mount that comes with the recommended 32 outrunner. I used heavy wall alloy tube for the stand-offs. It bolts right onto the stock blind nuts with 2" 6-32 screws. I cut out the firewall for a slip fit to the water jacket. This allows some extra support for high G maneuvers.
The header tank is a little on the large size, but it is conveniently available. It's also moveable for CG adjustments.
The coil is mounted in the scale radiator position. I'll have to open up the fake radiator in the fiberglass cowl to allow for proper airflow to the coil.
The coolant is EW 40, meaning vodka with a little blue food colouring added so that I can easily check for cavitation in the system.
I'm still waiting for my ESC and servos. From there the build will be relatively stock, except for some strategically placed carbon fiber components, etc.
|Sep 03, 2014, 07:11 PM|
CF Control Rods
I decided to upgrade the stock pushrods with carbon fiber rods fitted with Great Planes 2-56 ball links.
The stock rod with clevis is 11g, while the 070 CF rod with ball links is 3g.
Unfortunately I haven't been able to get the bonded end links to consistently pass pull testing.
I'll have to make some changes to get it to work. In the mean time I've installed the stock rods
|Sep 07, 2014, 01:23 PM|
I've found that the coolant mix that I'm using is unreliable as it induces cavitation to the pump. I'll change the mic to 75% water and 25% propylene glycol.
The threaded parts of the LG axles are too short for the aircraft (Nyloc) nuts to grab and prevent loosening. I'll replace these with thin nuts, washers and Loctite on the threads.
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