x-347 lithium battery replacement
I have an x-347 radio, whick I like very much. The problem is I need to replace the lithium battery inside it. I thought of doing this myself as I don't live in the states.
So here are some questions:
1. Is this a standart type battery whick I can find in let's say watch shop?
2. where is the location of the battery in the transmitter>?
3. Did someone did it already and can share some information about the process?
Any input will be welcome.
Thank's for your answers
I have replaced the battery in an X-347.
The owner was reprogramming the models every time he flew.
The battery has little tags on it. You may be able to find the correct battery with tags or have a battery assembly place weld them on. I was going to put a cell holder on the board but there wasn't enough room.
If you loose the calibration data when you change it I couldn't tell. Probably because to disappears when the cell goes flat. The radio seems OK on the minimal configuartion aircraft it is used with.
It wasn't the hardest job I had ever done but you have to accept the risk of turning the TX into an ornament. I don't like solder "live" batteries into anything.
Joined Oct 2005
JR X-347 Service Menu
1: Replace the lithium backup battery if necessary.
2: Recharge the transmitter battery to full capacity.
3: Set the GEAR switch to the rear position.
4: Press and hold the UP and DOWN keys and power on the transmitter, release the UP and DOWN keys.
5: Select the MDL.# RSET menu.
6: Flip the GEAR switch to the front position then press the DATA+ key.
Flip the GEAR switch to the rear position then press the DATA- key.
Repeat this fairly quickly about 3 to 4 times untill there is a BEEP.
If there is no BEEP after 6 completed cycles it failed, start from #3 again.
7: IF there is a BEEP the screen changes to INTL
8: Screen 1 Service menu: INTL
9: Screen 2 Mechanically set the sticks as close to 0 while looking at the value for:
10: Screen 3 Mechanically set the trims as close to 0 while looking at the value for:
11: Screen 4 Switch and LCD display test screen: 0000 0000
12: Screen 5 Stick end point calibration:
Move the stick to one end piont and press the CLR key.
Move the stick to the other end point and press the CLR key.
Select a new stick with the CH key and repeat this for all 8 end points.
When all 8 end points are stored the SA# will stop flashing:
13: Screen 6 Transmitter voltmeter adjustment:
Hook up a digital voltmeter to the transmitter battery and adjust the transmitter voltmeter display with the DATA+ and DATA- keys to read the same or slightly below the digital voltmeter: -## 9.6V
14: Screen 7 Enable or disable:
BATT NICD or DRY
ALRM 9.3v or 9.0v
SDIR ACT or INH
SWMX ACT or INH
SMOD ACT or INH
ZERO 0 or O
TYPE ACT or INH
POT8 YES or NO
15: Screen 8 Clear memory and reset the A-D converters with the CLR key: TCD *CLR
STK.1 TRM.1 SA1 = Elevator
STK.2 TRM.2 SA2 = Aileron
STK.3 TRM.3 SA3 = Throttle
STK.4 TRM.4 SA4 = Rudder
Replace the lithium backup battery if necessary.
Recharge the transmitter battery to full capacity.
Enter the service menu.
Clear, reset the transmitter.
BATT to NICA
ALRM to 9.3v
SDIR to ACT
SWMX to ACT
SMOD to ACT
ZERO to 0
TYPE to ACT
POT8 to YES
Adjust the voltmeter.
If you think it is necessary:
Mechanically adjust the sticks to read 0
Mechanically adjust the trims to read 0
Calibrate the sticks end points.
Having spent years in the Futaba service facility, I would like to warn that going into the service menu is NOT for the faint of heart. I cannot tell you the number of misprogrammed, and sometimes significantly damaged, radios we received in for service after the 'service programmers' started being built and sold. There are a lot of permanently damaging procedures that the consumer can accomplish, leading as far as the need to replace PC boards and hardware in extreme cases. Not to mention the risk of loss of models, (voiding warranty on the radio of course), and potential to injury to others.
Losing the calibration is just one example...modelers don't realize doing certain settings inside the service menus can blank the calibration. They go to fly, and the calibration is off and they may crash, could hurt someone, etc. Now you might say, "well duh, of course you'd check that", but folks don't realize they should, maybe don't read the full instructions they found somewhere, etc...
Not trying to rain on anyone's parade, just giving you some honest info, based on real first hand experience.
Joined Jun 2005
I've replaced several of these without issue... simply tag solder a wired slave battery in first with a diode on the pos lead (as per the pcb mounted battery) then desolder and change the old battery, then desolder the slave.... job done with no power interumption or any loss of memories or cals.... you must be carefull though when poking about with a hot iron.
Good luck... and don't loose any springs.
Guys i own 3 of the JR-X388S purchased in 95
The lithium batteries were flat ( 0.1V ) compleatly retired i guess, least no stupid chemical deposits to be seen.
I check out all the different posts about what to do to replace them.
So i decided that since i probably only need one working unit i would have a shot at it.
I ordered a suitable battery from a supplier in NSW ( Australia -home for me )
and proceded to wire up the new battery with leads to place it on the back of the LCD panel with double sided tape ( insulated of course)
To say i was relieved that the transmitter worked is an understaement but work it did, the only thing i noticed was that the voltage displayed on the LCD panel was 1 volt inaccurate, thought i could live with that.
Then did the other two transmitters with good results, strange though one of the later units showed a better reading on the voltage.
Being one of those guys that cant leave well enough alone, i decided to see what was involved with getting to the menu to adjust the voltage reading.
There is a post in the forum that gave the sequence for getting to that section of the program, so i hooked up an external volt meter to the battery and proceded to accesses the setup menu and adjust the voltage reading to 0.2v under the actual one on the external meter.
I now have 3 WORKING X388S's that will serve me for the next ten years.
My greatfull thanks to all the posters who have shared their knowledge and wisdom on this forum.
The savings to my pocket are considerable, and being a pensioner that means a lot.
While this tip may not apply to the JR X-347, it won't hurt to do before un-soldering the original backup battery.
Before removing the transmitter pack, turn on the transmitter for about 30 seconds or so, then proceed to remove the main battery and go for the lithium replacement. My old Airtronics Infinity would not lose the model settings even though the lithium battery had been removed, as long as I powered up the transmitter for for a moment or so once every day , then one day I forgot to turn it on lost everything
There probably are capacitors on the main board that will hold a charge for some time.
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