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Old Aug 29, 2015, 04:00 PM
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Help needed with reflashing hk200

Hi guys

I recently bought a HK 190-200 controller from Hobby King with the thought of trying my hand at reflashing the processor.
I figured it would be a good opportunity to try expand my knowledge of how stuff works, as well as getting a nice budget controller out of the deal.
I've spent quite a lot of time reading up on all this stuff on this forum, and was very happy to get the kkMulticopter Flash tool, USBasp, etc. working and reflashing the controller(as the flash tool said) successfully.
Trouble is... Its not working now
I've retraced my steps and double checked everything. All I can find is that the board design is slightly different from Type 1,2, and 3. It looked the closest to type 3 so I used the RB70a hex. I've since tried hk200a, and birdie70a just to be sure, nothing...

Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated

Thanks in advance.

M
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 09:30 AM
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This controller looks like a "Mystery" 200 as it has 6105 FET drivers.
Joe had some of these and I did a hex for them which seemed to work well.
Can't find the email, maybe Joe (or Gerben?) can help.
Anyway I did a new generation which is attached.
Try it, with care as always, and let us know.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 03:11 PM
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Thanks for your feedback and the hex file.
I've flashed the controller with it(twice) but still nothing... No beep or blip from the motor or nothing. I'm doing the testing on 2S, I think that's right.
The flash tool said it was successful both times. Could I be screwing this up somehow?
I'm open to any suggestions..

Thanks again
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 03:41 PM
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Hi again
I here's a screenshot of the flashing tool, if it helps. Everything looks ok to me, but you never know. I'm very new to this kind of thing.

Thanks again
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 05:09 PM
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You should test with a current limiting power supply or a car bulb in series. Even with 2S there can be sufficient short circuit current to destroy the FETs. But you would notice if that had happened!

That board is very interesting. It has solder pads for direct connection to the programming pins. Possibly there are some other connection differences. Maybe even it has 4milliohm FETs?

Your programmer output seems OK to me? Something should happen even if the connections are wrong? Smoke, jerking, some kind of noise?
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 06:27 PM
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Does the motor beep when you connect the battery?
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 02:05 AM
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Good morning!

No beep, sound, twitch or anything comes out the motor when the battery is connected.
Just the usual small snap from the bullet connector when I connect the battery.
I did check that it was working before I started re flashing. Then it beeped and did you usual start up thing and the motor ran well.
I brought in a Red Brick 200 from HK for a friend in the same order and the layout is exactly the same except for the bec components attached.

I've added a pic of the fets, just in case it helps

Once again, I really appreciate the help guys!

Thanks

M
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 06:38 AM
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If you have time, go to the flashing thread on JJ's blog and read up on measuring the pinouts of the controller. It took me some time to figure out what was meant.
Basically you just use a multimeter on resistance setting and measure the connection of the gate drivers (the three 8-legged parts on the left in your first pic) to the processor, along with some other connections. Once you know those, it should be fairly straightforward to establish which firmware you need.
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 06:43 AM
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Just looking at the screenshot, it seems odd to me..
George is this correct? M seems to be flashing your Mystery.hex directly to the Atmega with a bootloader?

I was always first using the USBASP to flash Simon's Birdie70A (or RB70, whatever is relevant for the controller), then write your firmware through the servocable and the USB-linker (without the bootloader).
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 01:40 PM
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Flashing. Yes he is right if that is what he is doing. The software can be flashed directly to the chip using the HK flashing tool. Alternatively you can flash the bootloader and then download through the servo input. You get the bootloader with the Simonk code, but I have a separate bootloader flash which works on all ATMega8 connected to the INT0 pin, so you don't need to know which Simonk software to use.

I looked for the M3016D fet and saw 30V, 4 milliohm. Good. The price was $64.00 in Spain! Getting 54 of them for 20 seems a good bargain.

If it is the same as the latest Red Brick I seem to remember there was something different, at leas in the two board Red brik I got.

But best if he can check the pin connections as you said, including the input pin but maybe we can see that from the photo. There are now so many combinations out there that trying them all is too much of a pain. My speculation is that they give them out as teaching projects to Chinese students!
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 02:52 PM
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Hi,
Sorry, a bit rusty on this.
That board 2P0603A1 is indeed the one in the latest Red Brick and I have a code for it.
Please try the attached hex asap and let me know.
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 03:43 PM
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OMG George you're a genius!!!

Great success! I flashed the HKmacro hex with no problem. The motor now sings a little song when the battery is first plugged in and runs well with brake(not sure how strong though). And just when hope was beginning to fade...

I've got two more questions if I may.
Are there any other versions of this hex available or does this one allow for the controller to be programmable somehow?

How difficult is it to write these hex files? I'm not very good with computers but I find the concept of re flashing very intriguing.

Thanks again George and Gerben for your help and input. I really appreciate it.

Marcel
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 04:26 PM
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I think the brake is the strongest you can get, but I had better let Gerben and Joe comment on this. It does ramp up to full brake over 140 milliseconds to avoid shedding the prop at every braking.

The most common option is reverse, so that you can solder up the controller as best suits in tight installations and reverse in software.

This software has a built in ramp so you can use full on - full off and let the controller give you a consistent ramp. It is a two stage ramp, 200 milliseconds to half power, to avoid breakages, then up to full power after 1 second. This can be changed as required, some people are now requesting faster ramps.

It is quite difficult to develop this sort of software (hex). There are night school courses and professional development courses which can provide training. You are a guinea pig for me, the first customer for my new development system. For the cognoscenti, I have been using Atmel Studio 5, 6, 6.1 on Windows XP for the development up to now. But this was done on Linux (Ubuntu) using Eclipse with the AVR plugin. Glad it worked.
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Old Sep 23, 2015, 04:09 AM
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Hi Marcel,
Your board has 3 capacitors across the phase measurement resistors.
See thread on custom software for F5D.
These should be removed for best results with the software you are using. They cause the timing to become more retarded as the rpm increases.
They are normally removed for simonK software also.
Too retarded timing can cause overheating.
George.
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Old Sep 26, 2015, 04:25 AM
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Hi George

Sorry for the slow reply.
I've looked and looked and the only difference between my board and the modified ones that I can spot are the three that I've marked with red arrows in the attached pic.
Is this what you're referring to or am I missing the plot here. The controller seems to be working great as is...

The only other thing I've done is add a choke to the receiver lead (I figured it couldn't hurt)

Cheers

M
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