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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse41 View Post
Hi Tom and Isoprop,
I spent hours this morning testing adapter cables that came with a new external LiPo, to figure out which pins go where, and it wasn't until I found a huge inconsistancy on your post# 1020 for the #16
The definite Guide to Power connectors http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20401640&postcount=1020
That I figured out why I'm having so much trouble. The picture Std_USB_Cable.png shows the Mini socket upside down, thus reversing pins 1-5. Or alternatively, it is showing the cable view, not the socket view.
The error became obvious when comparing to the picture just above it Pin4Removed.jpg highlighting the location of pin#4.
This causes a huge bit of confusion, as the post# 2093 here for the #11
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093
also shows the Mini socket view upside down, or shows the cable view and not the socket view.. USB_Special_Cable_11.gif
So anybody soldering their own special cable could get it wrong
Now I want to know which is correct, without breaking open my #11 special cable for auto 12V plug. I don't see how to open it. (No screws visible.)

Do you concur this corrected picture attached is the correct layout, if you want to keep Socket view?

Stewart
If you have a voltmeter that tests for continuity,you can find which pin in USB connects with the pin in the micro USB.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:51 AM
seahorse41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
In the #16 post, the circled pin #4 is the socket (on the camera), not the plug (on the cable).
Yes, that does match my definition for the words socket and plug.
However we can not call "Sockets" both on the camera and on the cable.

Once the socket terminology is consistent, then I agree your pictures of the male cable plugs are correct, and my attachment can be deleted.

I see now I Did overlook a detail, and that was the USB A was not the socket view after all.

Sorry for the confusion
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:58 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
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Joined Feb 2007
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Hmmm. Now I wish I would have marked it as a special cable. I guess I've got to locate that "special #11 cable" in my USB cable box. Now using the #16 more often so I'm rapidly losing my grayware on this one @Tom: This probably deserves big letters in your first post please
Thanks and Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
Only use the special cable designed specifically for the #11. Don't even think of using any other non-standard USB cable.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Just received the W-67 wide lens from Dealextreme to use it on my #11
Not too bad, I'd say.
Here is short video

http://youtu.be/9wp39SUcwHw?hd=1
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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I had an accident with my jumbo #11. It won't charge any more even the battery is still fine (100mins of recording)

It happened when I was trying to charge it on my desk. Instead of plugged in the USB charger that came with the keychain cam, I grabbed the wrong cable which is my mobile USB charger. Red LED came on and I didn't notice that I plugged in the wrong cable. (Don't leave your desk messy with cables lol)

I found out 3 hours later because red LED won't go off. The cam wasn't hot. But I assumed it might be okay since the red LED was on. However, when I tried to record, it recorded only few seconds then died. I tried to charge again with its original USB charger but the same thing happened. Red LED never goes off, and it wasn't charged at all.

My mobile USB charger output is 5v 1000mA. Same pin layout as computer USB port. It is the standard one that I use to connect to all my USB devices without any problem, but accidentially first time for #11.

The original #11 charger generates 5v 300-400mA,
and computer USB port generates 5v 500mA.

Any suggestions?
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Joined Feb 2009
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The higher amps capacity will not hurt the camera. I have used a 2000ma charger, no problem if 5 volts. Sounds more likely the camera did not accept a charge.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 11:09 AM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The higher amps capacity will not hurt the camera. I have used a 2000ma charger, no problem if 5 volts. Sounds more likely the camera did not accept a charge.
While it will not hurt the actual camera,, I don't think that a 2 amp charging rate is doing the little battery any good. It might even blow out any protection that the little board is giving the battery.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Could be true, but normally volts are pushed, amps are pulled. I was also thinking that the little protective circuit on the battery might have fried. It did happen on one of my older #7 cams. Symptoms were a bit different, it would not allow sufficient power to run the camera, even if the battery voltage was correct.

I removed the circuit on the battery and it worked fine. I converted the camera for external power after that.
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Last edited by victapilot; Feb 12, 2012 at 11:38 AM.
Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:00 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrafalgarLaw View Post
I had an accident with my jumbo #11. It won't charge any more even the battery is still fine (100mins of recording)
...
However, when I tried to record, it recorded only few seconds then died. I tried to charge again with its original USB charger but the same thing happened. Red LED never goes off, and it wasn't charged at all.
...
Any suggestions?
Have you tried to check the voltage on the battery tabs (inside the yellow tape, before they connect to the small battery protection circuitboard)?. Or tried a different battery? You say the battery is still fine, but it can't power the camera. Maybe it WAS fine, but then developed an internal high resistance from plating, or worse, a bridged short from plate deposits. So it wouldn't be able charge easily or at all, or could not deliver the amps the camera needs to operate while still holding the voltage high enough for the circuit components to function. This is how lipos typically die with use.

Start trouble shooting by ruling out one possibility at a time. I'd remove the battery and connect a spare, then start a charge cycle with a standard USB cable an see if THAT battery can be charged. While that's going on you can check the voltage on the battery tabs.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Have you tried to check the voltage on the battery tabs (inside the yellow tape, before they connect to the small battery protection circuitboard)?. Or tried a different battery? You say the battery is still fine, but it can't power the camera. Maybe it WAS fine, but then developed an internal high resistance from plating, or worse, a bridged short from plate deposits. So it wouldn't be able charge easily or at all, or could not deliver the amps the camera needs to operate while still holding the voltage high enough for the circuit components to function. This is how lipos typically die with use.

Start trouble shooting by ruling out one possibility at a time. I'd remove the battery and connect a spare, then start a charge cycle with a standard USB cable an see if THAT battery can be charged. While that's going on you can check the voltage on the battery tabs.
Thanks for your guide, Tom. I don't have any of the jumbo spare battery nor volt meter. However, I found out the same exact case from Beamen's post.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post19432810

Also Isoprop's post mentioned that there are 2 independent charging circuits.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post19314300

I tried charging it with special cable and it works! The battery is chargable now. It is able to take at least 20 mins of video. (I manually stopped the recording to see if it works)

I guess using 3rd party charger might damage the internal primary charger circuit. The only way left to use it is to charge with the secondary charging circuit through special cable.

This thread has so much useful information! Thanks all
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 07:21 AM
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That's great, but I never use the special cable, which I thought was mostly for recording while charging.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 07:58 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrafalgarLaw View Post
Thanks for your guide, Tom. I don't have any of the jumbo spare battery nor volt meter. However, I found out the same exact case from Beamen's post.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post19432810

Also Isoprop's post mentioned that there are 2 independent charging circuits.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post19314300

I tried charging it with special cable and it works! The battery is chargable now. It is able to take at least 20 mins of video. (I manually stopped the recording to see if it works)

I guess using 3rd party charger might damage the internal primary charger circuit. The only way left to use it is to charge with the secondary charging circuit through special cable.

This thread has so much useful information! Thanks all
Sometimes I charge my #11 using the special cable and sometimes with my Motorola V6 charger. Both work perfectly although I try to use the V6 charger more often in the hope that it's better on the battery.

As long as your 3rd party charger has pin #4 (pin x) disconnected, I see no reason why it shouldn't work. However, if pin #4 was somehow connected to another pin, I guess it could have damaged something.

As long as the 3rd party charger only has two wires, then you'll always be 99.99% safe.

If you don't have a multimeter to test the cables, then you'll have to be extra careful with which cables you use. And you should ALWAYS mark your special cable as such - otherwise you'll soon forget it is a special cable and may damage other devices if you use it. I have preached this many times, but people tend to ignore the advice .
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
While it will not hurt the actual camera,, I don't think that a 2 amp charging rate is doing the little battery any good. It might even blow out any protection that the little board is giving the battery.
This amps and volts bit is a bit confusing - let me see if I can unwind you a little bit.
The camera internal charge circuit needs 5 volts input.
It usually charged the battery in 40 mins or so, so it needs to take about 500-600mA from the power supply to charge AND run the camera.

Its the Volts that do the pushing, the Amps just say how much the charger can supply IF IT IS ASKED TO, if it is not asked for its rated power the PSU just says OK so I don't have to work so hard, thanks.

Sort of like having a 250 Horse Power motor in you car, you only get it if you ask for it (unless the throttle peddle gets stuck in the carpet ).

BUT if you try to charge through an un powered USB HUB, it will freak out and refuse to supply you ( some actually shut down the port, and need a disconnect and power off to work again).

It Could be that the High Power Charger is wired differently, and did something else to the camera innards ... you need to open up and measure the voltage on the battery terminals (if you have a meter 4.2 volts is charged ).
The red light ON says it is trying to charge, but the battery is not up to volts yet...
Did that Help, or put you to sleep ?
Mike
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 09:46 AM
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IsoProp
Ah - tramped on your toes again sorry.
Mike
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Old Feb 14, 2012, 10:05 AM
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United States, MI, Livonia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
This amps and volts bit is a bit confusing - let me see if I can unwind you a little bit.
The camera internal charge circuit needs 5 volts input.
It usually charged the battery in 40 mins or so, so it needs to take about 500-600mA from the power supply to charge AND run the camera.

Its the Volts that do the pushing, the Amps just say how much the charger can supply IF IT IS ASKED TO, if it is not asked for its rated power the PSU just says OK so I don't have to work so hard, thanks.

Sort of like having a 250 Horse Power motor in you car, you only get it if you ask for it (unless the throttle peddle gets stuck in the carpet ).

BUT if you try to charge through an un powered USB HUB, it will freak out and refuse to supply you ( some actually shut down the port, and need a disconnect and power off to work again).

It Could be that the High Power Charger is wired differently, and did something else to the camera innards ... you need to open up and measure the voltage on the battery terminals (if you have a meter 4.2 volts is charged ).
The red light ON says it is trying to charge, but the battery is not up to volts yet...
Did that Help, or put you to sleep ?
Mike
I think this depends on if that little board inside the battery pack is limiting the amps to the battery or not. Or just is it just stopping the charge at 4.2V. One test will be to time a charge from a low battery to charge light out using the proper cable,, and then doing the test with the 2 amp charger and seeing if it takes the same time or less.. If less than I would say that it's charging the battery to fast. But if it's the same than the little board is controlling the input to the battery and you are right there is no problem.

If the battery never gets to 4.2 volts and the light goes out then there is something wrong with the charging circuit or the battery is bad..

Remember they have lowered the charging rate on the #16 camera because of the #11 charging the battery to fast and causing a early failing of the battery. So they must be controlling the charge rate if they can do this...
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