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Old Mar 26, 2010, 06:33 PM
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Me too..........
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Old Mar 26, 2010, 11:26 PM
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Good outline of the method.

Paul Bradley uses the method to do a whole plane at once, then dopes it to the covering.
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 08:50 AM
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Thanks guys, funny! Sometimes family comes before airplanes!

We'll move on now, got to get my cofee and some
Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 08:56 AM
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You have us eagerly awaiting the next installment! I was afraid the decal company police sent out a hit squad.
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vonJaerschky View Post
You have us eagerly awaiting the next installment! I was afraid the decal company police sent out a hit squad.
They probably will, just like the big auto companies and oil companies did to all the great inventors gone away. I'm tough and thay can kill me but they can't take my brain!
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:04 AM
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Ok this set is ready. Yes they are small! Cool thing is this method works with big and small.

Ever try to make small on printer friendly decal paper nad apply them? This makes it easy.

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:10 AM
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Now cut out the ones you want to use.

One really cool thing with these decals is that you can cut from either side because they are basiclly see-through untill mounted. I can use regular scissors for everthing, even tight curves. White paint backed decals can only be cut from the top side, sorry.

Did I mention light? I don't think you could get markings done any lighter unless you had mega bucks to spend. I love cheap, er, I mean inexpensive!

One last tip. I used to worry about cutting right at the printed edge, you can do that still. I can cut them close, leaving a little overhang and when mounted you really can't see it (except on the white/dark background type where you have to cut them closer).

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:16 AM
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We will start to cover application. I will cover the foamy, painted foamy, fiberglass/painted wood application method I like the best first.

I've done other methods of application and I'll talk about that later.

It is so worth buying some Polycrilic, Water Based Polyurithane. and some white glue. We already have a glue stick, right. Chances are you already own these. If not see other metods to follow.

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:36 AM
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I mix up a small splat of WBPU and White glue. 3/4 WBPU, 1/4 Glue. I also put a small splat of WBPU un-mixed in a seperate well. The Q-tip is a great paintbrush that won't cost much if you let it get dried out. The Q-tip also holds liquids well without making a dripping mess.

1st: I put my decal upside down on some clean, disposable paper and wipe a glue stick on it. Does not take much, but a little does make a better job. On the real tiny decals I just lay them on the glue stick, press, and lift them off with a toothpick.

2nd: Take the Q-tip coated in the WBPU/Glue mix and paint a very thin layer on the back of the decal. Note much, just a good complete coverage wet coat. Remember that Krylon? The decals are waterproof now and the waterbased media will not affect them!

3rd: Place your decal roughly where you want it and press the edges down. You may see a slight, microscopic curling at the edges, but that is fine because you can slide it around gingerly to get it just where you want it now. If you want you can pre-paint a little mixture on the aircraft where the decal will go first, but I don't really do this anymore.

4th: Now I take the plane WBPU and give a coat to the top of the mounted decal making sure it looks wet all the way to the edges. In fact I like to extend the wet edge just past the decal to get a little WBPU to flow right under the edge. (remember I don't put any on the airframe first).

5th: For me, at this point, I rub the decal with a finger, taking most of the top coat off and also sealing down the edges. If you put too much finish on you can also use a thin credit card, playing card, piece of depron, or similar and squeegie from the center outward to remove any excess liquid or bubbles.

6th: Take a damp tissue and wipe all the WBPU off your airframe around the decal, right up to the edge. This way you won't see any hazing ot clouded differance between the finish near the decal. Blot it dry with a dry tissue.

Tips: WBPU starts to dry quick, so with a clean tissue or paper towel (or finger), wiping the liquid off the top really makes it stick well real quick. Once in a while, within a minute or so, you might see an edge lifting ever so slightly, just press/rub it down, it will stick! A difficult edge, a tiny re-application of WBPU only at that edge will fix it. I can faily handle the decal area softly while adding more decals within 3-4 minutes.

They are now stuck but good. Top coated and fairly resistant to envirnmental factors. In fact the only way I can ever remove one is with alcohol and 5-10 minutes of elbow grease!

You can top coat them again if you want. You can not post paint, clear coat, dull coat, whatever. Most finishes I have found will top coat over WBPU finishes.

Now I'll post some examples.

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Here are some sample pictures on foam, depron, plain and unpainted models.

The first 2 pictures are on a 22g AUW, 10" wingspan, EDF jet, own design. Yes they are small. Look printed on and light!

The second shot is an indoor pusher jet I call the Meerkat, an adaptation of the Bobcat theme. 19" wingspan, 3.5 ounce AUW, and I used color packing tape as the stripes.

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 10:01 AM
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Here is a sample of Tissue decals on a 32" span Sopwith Pup I built from my own drawings. Mostly painted depron airframe.

You may note the top wing insignia looks painted on. Look how it conforms to my simulated rib tape. These decals were 5 inches in diameter. Oh yeah good decal to do the white paint on the backside trick!

The rudder markings were built in my Printmaster program by using different font size and types. You be the judge, looks good to me.

Overall I got a good looking airframe and the Tissue Decals made it really stand out. No big old ridges from waterslide or worse types.

Want to see more of the decals/markings on this build go to this link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1153096

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 10:05 AM
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More family stuff, I'll post some more methods and examples later, enjoy!

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 11:20 AM
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Here is some info on doing the decals on Balsa wood airframes. Small diffrances on tissue covered would be similar.

This is a little fantasy scale biplane bomber I designed and built, 12" wingspan. All balsa, and I painted it (with Krylon colors).

I started with the decals fairly fresh, within less than 24 hours. I simply brushed them on with Acetone! However the corners and edges sometimes were not to my standard, so a simple express of some Krylon out of the spray can, and brushed over the decal, DONE.

On tissue covering similar results are quick and easy. However if you still use nitrate dope cover and seal (I use Krylon), it will be on you to test Krylon sealed decals applied with Dope. Knowing me, I'd try a decal sheet treated with Dope, and do it the traditional way. I've never tested the inks/toners with Dope though.

If you want to see more markings on this plane check it out here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1187633

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 11:53 AM
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Some other pictures of decals made from tissue to give you something to think about. I've also done great nose art on warbirds, added real pictures of people and even done pilot busts with one of my daugters faces on the head, 3 dimensional.

Some history/pitfalls/shortcuts and just plain saves you the time:

I've used spray 77 to mount. Messy and tough to align because once you touch, it's there to stay.

Elmer's rubber cement, I put 1 light coat on decal, one on airframe (masked off), dry, sticks like glue, but good. See note above about alignment.

Glue stick only. OK, but I do think the WBPU addition is far better for adhesion and durability.

White glue only. OK, but makes lumps under the decal. Most of the time they will disappear, but hard to squeeze any excess from under the decal when mounting.

Epoxy. If you must because of certain circumstances. Hard to find clear epoxy like Power Poxy unless a retailer near you carries it.

Doublesided tape. Well where did you save the weight now, and doesn't look painted on. Why don't you use label paper instead!

CyA. Never tried it?

Can you actually coat over these with other finishes when done. YES... Just make sure the finish is compatable by testing first.

I'll try to come back and post some more examples sometime but need to take some pictures first.

If you found this useful or helpful, let me know.

I often wonder if anyone really reads these mini-how-too's anyway? Might tempt me to do more of them.

Pass it along to someone in need on a project, they may like it. It sure has made my projects more fun and interesting. Peace!

Fred
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Old Mar 27, 2010, 01:30 PM
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Yes, it is very helpful. Great tutorial, thanks!
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