I found it Marinaio.... take a look here

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/aux-PKZ1017#t7

And than select "Important Product Bulletin" located on the right side!!!

Looks like they still have the free propeller replacement offer if you have the old prop version.

Originally Posted by Rickn816

Using flight modes, you can have both throttle and flaps on the left stick. I have the servos and motor ready to go into the Mystique as soon (?) as it gets here.

The RP is fun, but it is foam and bendy foam and QC is not great, but you can replace the entire airframe for about $100. After this rebuild, I won't do it again, either.

Rick

Ok you got me. I'll setup a flight mode and put flap on left stick and report back. See you on the mystique thread for sure.

Great! Thanks! I have the good one..whew, one less thing to worry about..

Originally Posted by marinaio

Great! Thanks! I have the good one..whew, one less thing to worry about..

The one with the _1 is version 2 of 3. The latest one has a double _1 on it. 9.75x7.5_1_1 is what it says on the prop. If you look closely, the extra "_1" is not as solidly embossed as the rest of the lettering. It sort of looks like an afterthought that was put there by a different process than the original 9.75x7.5_1.

When I compare the two, there is no difference that is visible to my eyes. The good news is that both of them work very well.

Originally Posted by marinaio

Hi everyone
I just bought a Radian Pro, and after reading some posts I see that they were sold with a defective prop in the early days.. my radian came with what appears as an open box, no manual, lots of dust on the parts, so I suspect it is rather old, and am concerned I have got the original bad prop. I have tried searching through the 700+ pages but i cant get a focused answer. Would anyone remember how I can tell if I have the bad or the good prop (before I fly it!)? or at least please tell me what the markings are on a "good " new prop?.. Thanks!

Your manual should be taped to the underside of the foam try.

Originally Posted by Jovanx

Thank you for that beautiful video. I still remember that one you took of not flying that showed the big blue waves and the icebergs. Now that you are sort of over your fear of flying over water, that spot might be on your list.

I have flown over a lake, and landed it in the water on purpose, just to see if it could be done. I figured it a guy could land on water, a whole new vista of flying sites would open up. When I plucked it out of the lake, it made funny noises and the motor would not work. In the end it turned out that the ESC was wet, and after a few hours of drying out, it's as good as new.

Before winter comes, my plan is to waterproof everything and try landing in the water again. It's not a float plane, but it floats.

Thanks for the kind words Jovanx. Well see how the winter holds up and i just may hit the high seas in the spring with the bergs...no pun intended!!

I have a set of HZ Super Cub floats that ive thought about mounting to the belly for giggles haha
But you would need to mock up something for the tail for sure...but have it so it sits very high off the water, last thing you want is your Prop hitting the water.

God its to late to be brain storming how to make a RP into a float plane haha

Do what i did to the RX for winter ops, you can also wrap the esc in a balloon with zip tie around the wires. keeps the water out great. If you really want to make sure no water gets in there, before you zip the rubber around the wires add a bit of hot glue there, let set, then tighten up the tie!

Cant believe you landed her on water lol

would of love to see that video

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

I don't see any warning in the manual about running at partial throttle. I expect that it's ok so long as you are not restricting the airflow.

A warning appears in the Radian manual (same power system):

Note: The power system installed in the Radian is
designed for climbing use in bursts (50% operating
time or less). It is not intended to run full throttle for
long periods of time. Not following this direction may
result in reduced life of the power system.

They probably didn't mention it in the RP manual because it was aimed at the more experienced gilder pilot. If it's fussy about full throttle, then you can bet your life it's more fussy about lower settings and the heat they produce.

Picked up an RP before I went on my trip up to Lake of the Woods in northern MN. Maidened it at my friend's RC field. A quarter taped to the tail was just enough ballast to move the CG back to the sweet spot with my Outrage NRG 1300 35c packs. I didn't bother setting up the wing, as I'm thinking about installing an AR6710 rx so I can use the 10CHP's four-servo/four-channel wing configuration. I'm just using a basic 5-channel setup in the interim.

What a relaxing plane! So stable & easy to fly - yet surprisingly agile when called upon. I even let her fly hands-off for a minute-plus into a bit of a headwind @ zero ground-speed. I think I'm going to add some reflective tape to the wing for those half-mile AGL flights. I lost sight of the plane on a couple occasions.

I shot a few gigs of on-board video. I'll post a clip once I finish editing.

Joel

Congrats with the maiden Joel!!!

Big difference from the micro stuff huh, LOL!!

I really like using all options, Flaps, Camber, Reflex & Crow/Butterfly. I also have the Flaps on the AUX3 Knob on the DX8.

Looking forward to your video!!!

Originally Posted by turboparker

Picked up an RP before I went on my trip up to Lake of the Woods in northern MN. Maidened it at my friend's RC field. A quarter taped to the tail was just enough ballast to move the CG back to the sweet spot with my Outrage NRG 1300 35c packs. I didn't bother setting up the wing, as I'm thinking about installing an AR6710 rx so I can use the 10CHP's four-servo/four-channel wing configuration. I'm just using a basic 5-channel setup in the interim.

What a relaxing plane! So stable & easy to fly - yet surprisingly agile when called upon. I even let her fly hands-off for a minute-plus into a bit of a headwind @ zero ground-speed. I think I'm going to add some reflective tape to the wing for those half-mile AGL flights. I lost sight of the plane on a couple occasions.

I shot a few gigs of on-board video. I'll post a clip once I finish editing.

Joel

And have you gotten your UM Spit yet? Seems to be the week for them and the reports (if you wade through the busy topic) are that she will do your nice big loops. Still waiting for both of these planes to arrive

The replacement prop blades for original Radian are correct for your Pro. Try it with your blades, then changd to replacement prop. Use the one that gives you best climb, keep the other as a spare. About $5

Originally Posted by aeajr

The replacement prop blades for original Radian are correct for your Pro. Try it with your blades, then changd to replacement prop. Use the one that gives you best climb, keep the other as a spare. About $5

I thought part of the problem was the failure of the spinner with it's build in plastic blade yoke?

Nope, problem was the blades.

Originally Posted by Gerry__

A warning appears in the Radian manual (same power system):



They probably didn't mention it in the RP manual because it was aimed at the more experienced gilder pilot. If it's fussy about full throttle, then you can bet your life it's more fussy about lower settings and the heat they produce.

I still see no warning about running at medium throttle. The warning on the Radian is for long runs at WOT. Running wide open for long periods will surely heat up the batteries, so that's a given. I've never had a problem with the esc getting hot in my RP, but I have had batteries get puffy, even with non continuous successive launches. I'm talking with 30 second launches and a 2-3 minute glide between, when there is no thermal activity or heavy sink. The stock batteries are marginal, so I have recently purchased some 25-50 c batteries. I sure hope they don't use those stock batteries for non-gliders, where the motor runs most of the time. I do think they use the same esc for many of their non-glider planes.

Originally Posted by coreman

I thought part of the problem was the failure of the spinner with it's build in plastic blade yoke?

There have been reports of the plastic hub breaking and throwing the prop. Many have replaced the stock parts with aluminum hubs and spinners for that reason. That however is not covered by any factory recall. The early props are. If you have an original prop without a "-1" at he end of the part number PZ will replace it at no cost.