Originally Posted by asanado

If you want a second heli, than a BNF is the better option (than a KIT) for beginners. But it would probably cost more, because assembly needs working hands that cost...

In my opinion, a KIT is better, for being cheaper, and it can be used as a whole set of replacement parts for the RTF.
Even a beginner, who is assembling a KIT, as hard as it can be, will benefit a lot from the assembly - this the best way to learn about the machine and parts functionality and trouble shooting. "Trial and Error" learning is the hardest, but the best.

Good points, The limited amount of taking apart and reassemby of my dead V911 has taught me a few things... taught me faster then I wanted to learn but it certainly taught me a few things.

Another advantage of a Kit (in addition to being cheaper than BNF) is that if a person does screw up a component... I guess he knows which piece he messed up and can just order that particular piece.

Both Daryoon and I have build helicopters from parts, and I'll say from my own experience that it was an invaluable lesson. The part that intimidated me most was the soldering, but I did okay. My first bird had lots of noise and vibrations at first, but after some good advices from Daryoon, it is now flying better than stock. I think the knowledge to repair and mod a model, whether it is a helicopter, plane, car or boat is what separates a hobbyist from just a toy player.

I also noticed that the v911 does not sell shaft bearings in the frame. For a moment, I don't know if they are in the helicopter. But they must be. Even my little toy S107 has them. So, for those who are brave enough to disassemble their helicopter, please report the size of these bearings. If WL doesn't supply them, there is a good chance that we could identify a compatible part. If no one wants to disassemble their helicopter, could we have someone at least report the size of the main shaft, so we know that the inner dia of the bearings should be?

Looks like my V911 left Hong Kong today. Maybe I'll have it sometime this week.

Just curious. Has anyone flown the new Trex-100X? There are a couple of good vids on YouTube

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

Both Daryoon and I have build helicopters from parts, and I'll say from my own experience that it was an invaluable lesson. The part that intimidated me most was the soldering, but I did okay. My first bird had lots of noise and vibrations at first, but after some good advices from Daryoon, it is now flying better than stock. I think the knowledge to repair and mod a model, whether it is a helicopter, plane, car or boat is what separates a hobbyist from just a toy player.

I also noticed that the v911 does not sell shaft bearings in the frame. For a moment, I don't know if they are in the helicopter. But they must be. Even my little toy S107 has them. So, for those who are brave enough to disassemble their helicopter, please report the size of these bearings. If WL doesn't supply them, there is a good chance that we could identify a compatible part. If no one wants to disassemble their helicopter, could we have someone at least report the size of the main shaft, so we know that the inner dia of the bearings should be?

The best I can tell without disassembling my v911, the main shaft is 3mm. It appears that the outer diameter of the bearing is 6mm, and a total guesstimation is that the bearing is 2.5mm tall. Please take these numbers with a grain of salt, I did not take the v911 apart, and it was a tad difficult to get the calipers in there to measure, and again, the height of the bearing is a guess.

Originally Posted by sgnelson

The best I can tell without disassembling my v911, the main shaft is 3mm. It appears that the outer diameter of the bearing is 6mm, and a total guesstimation is that the bearing is 2.5mm tall. Please take these numbers with a grain of salt, I did not take the v911 apart, and it was a tad difficult to get the calipers in there to measure, and again, the height of the bearing is a guess.

Thank you, SG, that's a great start. I have some 9958 parts on hand. The shaft size is 2.95mm, so it matches the v911 shaft real well. The outside dia of the bearings is 6mm and the height is 2mm tall. So there, I think if we are desperate, we could purchase and drop in a 9958 bearing.

Other Solo Pro experts out there with parts?

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

Both Daryoon and I have build helicopters from parts, and I'll say from my own experience that it was an invaluable lesson. The part that intimidated me most was the soldering, but I did okay. My first bird had lots of noise and vibrations at first, but after some good advices from Daryoon, it is now flying better than stock. I think the knowledge to repair and mod a model, whether it is a helicopter, plane, car or boat is what separates a hobbyist from just a toy player.

I also noticed that the v911 does not sell shaft bearings in the frame. For a moment, I don't know if they are in the helicopter. But they must be. Even my little toy S107 has them. So, for those who are brave enough to disassemble their helicopter, please report the size of these bearings. If WL doesn't supply them, there is a good chance that we could identify a compatible part. If no one wants to disassemble their helicopter, could we have someone at least report the size of the main shaft, so we know that the inner dia of the bearings should be?

One of my problems/fears is 1st not knowing how things go together. Over the years I've repaired bunches of stuff around the house, computer, etc. and after I've done it once, it then makes sense and is fairly straight forward but in the process, I usually break or mess something up the 1st time... then it's, Oh, I see how it is supposed to work but by then I've broken something. But the next time, I've got it down.

My problem with these Helis is the size of the parts!! If I were working on a Heli that was 3 feet long, I'd actually feel more comfortable but these pieces (buckles, screws, etc.) are almost microscopic.
How do you guys routinely deal with these small pieces, getting them lined up, inserted, adjusted??? I worked on getting one buckle type linkage back on last night for 10 minutes when I finally noticed it had an oval shaped opening so had to be aligned straight up in order to fit.

I use the main bearings from the various birds interchangeably. The only difference is, if I remember correctly, the Solo Pro bearings has 7 balls instead of 8 like the 9958 and mSR. The physical dimensions, they are drop in replacements for one another.

Originally Posted by cpuken

My problem with these Helis is the size of the parts!! If I were working on a Heli that was 3 feet long, I'd actually feel more comfortable but these pieces (buckles, screws, etc.) are almost microscopic.
How do you guys routinely deal with these small pieces, getting them lined up, inserted, adjusted??? I worked on getting one buckle type linkage back on last night for 10 minutes when I finally noticed it had an oval shaped opening so had to be aligned straight up in order to fit.

Like this, Ken, like this...

Hi everyone! I'm a newbie here and have been absorbing lots of good info on these forums. I've tinkered with electric RC cars in the past and have had one of those micro Air Hogs CA for a year or two. Playing with the Air Hogs was exciting but being a 2-channel heli, had severe limitations, though I've learned to control it very well. I always thought that's just how all RC helicopters were until I came across 3-channel helis from Syma. Then I became even more interested! Anyway, I most recently placed an order for a V911 with BangGood (crossing fingers than the order went through without a hitch) and can't wait to get my hands on it! I'm itching to learn the ways of the 4-channel helis and almost made an impulse buy on an MSRx from my LHS.

Enough of my "bio"... I've actually got a question. I'm tempted to purchase a Turnigy 9x or similar transmitter for the V911 but they appear to be out of stock. Can anyone direct me to where I might find one for a fair cost?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

Originally Posted by h106frp

On the other side to the servo is a feedback potentiometer - it is driven by a shaft with a cross type point from the back of the servo. If the shaft has become dislodged (or the pot lifted at some time) then no feedback/ or wrong position reported. The pot should be mid span for mid servo. Might be worth a look. Just giving the pot a light press has helped stop jittery servos on my TR100's in the past.

I'm not sure I understand where to press..on the arm toward the PCB board? I have unscrewed the arm screw and put it back...had to apply some pressure there..is that where you mean. So you're saying if the arm is not exactly in the right spot it will report as you mentioned? Thanks, I'll give it a try.
By the way, can you safely turn the servos by hand without any risk of damaging them...or is that not a good idea?

Originally Posted by supermac

FYI, I was able to fix the CORTER with a sharpie. Now it says "COPTER"
LOL.

Best mod yet! LOL

Originally Posted by computerbreak

I'm not sure I understand where to press..on the arm toward the PCB board? I have unscrewed the arm screw and put it back...had to apply some pressure there..is that where you mean. So you're saying if the arm is not exactly in the right spot it will report as you mentioned? Thanks, I'll give it a try.
By the way, can you safely turn the servos by hand without any risk of damaging them...or is that not a good idea?

Other side of the board to the servo itself-disc about 3mm thick and 8mm diameter is the feedback sensor that tells the arm where it's positioned.

If you take the arm off, initiate the heli and let the servo position itself, is the servo then controllable - i.e. it's just the arm in the wrong position to start with?

You can turn the servo gently, at least it's never caused me any issues - it feels tight because the gear ratio is now reversed to what the motor usually sees.

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

Like this, Ken, like this...

You forgot I also need a bracket to mount my iPhone, so that I can videotape my flights (I even remembered to turn it sideways). Would a couple drops of CA hold the phone to the glasses?

Oh yeah, two drops of CA on the glasses frame, plus one drop of CA to your forehead ought to do it!! LOL.

Originally Posted by h106frp

Other side of the board to the servo itself-disc about 3mm thick and 8mm diameter is the feedback sensor that tells the arm where it's positioned.

If you take the arm off, initiate the heli and let the servo position itself, is the servo then controllable - i.e. it's just the arm in the wrong position to start with?

You can turn the servo gently, at least it's never caused me any issues - it feels tight because the gear ratio is now reversed to what the motor usually sees.

No, if I take the arm off, and initiate the heli, the servo is still not controllable...has the whine until I turn off tx. Even when I gently turn servo, same result. This is driving me nuts...do you guys think it's the servo or the transmitter? The servo does turn about 1/4 of the way when initiating the heli...then whines like crazy like in the recording I made.