Originally Posted by Vantasstic

My guess would be you had a solder blob that shorted the positive and negative wire pads. As for repairs, unsolder the positive lead from the current pad and solder it to one of the empty + pads on the inner part of the board. If the original copper pad has lifted from the board I'd cut it out and remove it so it doesn't run the possibility of shorting against another negative pad. So is it fixable, yes, by relocating the wire to a different + pad.

Easy enough, thanks. Just to be sure, so I don't **** anything up more than it is, the - wire can stay where it is?

Originally Posted by Keddy

Also, something does quite look right here. Looks like solder went under the paint and got really close, this may have arced.

-picture-

That's not solder, that's just light reflecting off the paint.

Originally Posted by Casey_S

Easy enough, thanks. Just to be sure, so I don't **** anything up more than it is, the - wire can stay where it is?

That's hard to answer by looking at your picture. If your battery pad is firmly attached to the board still then it might be fine to leave where is. If it's even a little loose/lifted then I'd relocate the wire to another + pad.

Do you have an ohm meter? If so, touch the leads between any two + and - pads. If you have ~0 ohms then you have a direct short somewhere in the board. If you are reading in the Mohm range then you should be good.

Last thing...I don't like exposed pads like this. If anything conductive gets on them you're looking for a serious short to happen. I put hot glue over my pads (used or unused) to insulate them. The hot glue will peel up pretty easy if you need to resolder/add a wire.

Originally Posted by Vantasstic

That's hard to answer by looking at your picture. If your battery pad is firmly attached to the board still then it might be fine to leave where is. If it's even a little loose/lifted then I'd relocate the wire to another + pad.

I meant the negative wire. The positive sure can't stay where it is.

Do you have an ohm meter? If so, touch the leads between any two + and - pads. If you have ~0 ohms then you have a direct short somewhere in the board. If you are reading in the Mohm range then you should be good.

Last thing...I don't like exposed pads like this. If anything conductive gets on them you're looking for a serious short to happen. I put hot glue over my pads (used or unused) to insulate them. The hot glue will peel up pretty easy if you need to resolder/add a wire.

Nope, no ohm meter.

I don't have any hot glue at the moment but electrical tape should do the job too I imagine?

Hey guys - just got my HT-FPV off the ground (kinda) for the first time. Is yours LOUD as all hell?

I have graup e-props on mine along with some T-Motor 2216 900kvs. Haven't tried swapping out the props yet but this thing sounds like a chainsaw. It's almost intimidating!

Noticed that the rear arms are kind of flexy too - front seems better. Anybody else?

Originally Posted by robstach

Hey guys - just got my HT-FPV off the ground (kinda) for the first time. Is yours LOUD as all hell?

I have graup e-props on mine along with some T-Motor 2216 900kvs. Haven't tried swapping out the props yet but this thing sounds like a chainsaw. It's almost intimidating!

Noticed that the rear arms are kind of flexy too - front seems better. Anybody else?

Very strange...I am not sure what would cause it to be loud. I have had mine flying for quite some time and love it.

I am sure you will track down the gremlin. Best of luck!

Originally Posted by Casey_S

I meant the negative wire.

Oh, okay. That makes sense then. Sure it can stay in place if the pad is in good shape.

Nope, no ohm meter.

Then go get one. A cheap $10 one is better than nothing. A simple mutli-meter with Volts, Ohms, and Continuity (with tone) is all you need. I got a nice big one from Harbor Freight...if you have them in your location. http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html . You don't have to have one with the audible continuity...but it makes it easier when testing wires and such as you can listen for continuity vs having to look a the meter display.

I don't have any hot glue at the moment but electrical tape should do the job too I imagine?

Electrical tape will work in a pinch. It will leave tape residue over time which would just turn into a mess to clean up.

I still do not have an OSD on my HT-FPV, just camera, ReplayXD camera, Video TX, etc..

Do most of you HT-FPV friends run an OSD?
Thank you,
Alan

Originally Posted by robstach

Hey guys - just got my HT-FPV off the ground (kinda) for the first time. Is yours LOUD as all hell?

I have graup e-props on mine along with some T-Motor 2216 900kvs. Haven't tried swapping out the props yet but this thing sounds like a chainsaw. It's almost intimidating!

Noticed that the rear arms are kind of flexy too - front seems better. Anybody else?

When I first started I had put my props incorrectly and it sounded 3 times louder as the trust was pushing upwards on two motors, so I was giving it more throttle to take off, it took off at 80% but it sounded just like a chainsaw.. Recheck your props, their rotation and look for bends, tears or small cracks..

Originally Posted by AlanFlorida

I still do not have an OSD on my HT-FPV, just camera, ReplayXD camera, Video TX, etc..

Do most of you HT-FPV friends run an OSD?
Thank you,
Alan

I don't use an osd yet because of budget restrains (wife ) but i would say that it depends on the type of flying that you plan on doing.. If you fly your quad less than 200 ft and you stay with good visual range then I would tell you that it is not necessary. But if you fly in places whee you can get disoriented like a desert or a big grassy place where there are no good landmarks, the return to home feature is priceless.. Also depends on your goggles, I would say the fat shark dominators are great for seeing the osd outputs but if you have the base googles it may cut off or not look as good, I'm saving for the eagle tree package @ hobbyking.

Originally Posted by Estuardon

When I first started I had put my props incorrectly and it sounded 3 times louder as the trust was pushing upwards on two motors, so I was giving it more throttle to take off, it took off at 80% but it sounded just like a chainsaw.. Recheck your props, their rotation and look for bends, tears or small cracks..

You are correct.. I initially had one motor spinning the wrong way. Fixed that and she's quiet until take off. I think the "buzz" is vibration.

Balanced the blades today - one was WAY out of balance. So.. hoping that will help.

Side note: completely jacked up my gopro lens trying to get a motor off. I wasn't thinking and placed the frame nose down on my bench completely forgetting that a) I had my gopro attached and b) I didn't have a lens protector on.

So annoyed with myself. So - looks like I'll be ordering a replacement lens tonight. Grr......

[QUOTE=robstach;22289265]You are correct.. I initially had one motor spinning the wrong way. Fixed that and she's quiet until take off. I think the "buzz" is vibration.

Balanced the blades today - one was WAY out of balance. So.. hoping that will help.

Something else that will help with vibrations and a tighter mounting solution for your motors.

Originally Posted by AlanFlorida

I still do not have an OSD on my HT-FPV, just camera, ReplayXD camera, Video TX, etc..

Do most of you HT-FPV friends run an OSD?
Thank you,
Alan

Yep. You can get a very basic OSD (voltage x2, and time) from the HK Simple OSD. Just tap it into one or two of your batteries, connect it's vid out anywhere to your vid line (between camera out and VTx in). Calibrate the voltages, set up the display locations you prefer. Done. It isn't fancy, but will monitor your battery voltage. Sample video of mine here:

Untitled (0 min 39 sec)

. Cost around $15 or so.

For real OSD I use Dragon OSD. It provide a lot more information, direction home, etc.

Got her airborne but I definitely need to switch to 4s if I keep these t-motor 900kv .... wayyy underpowered on 3s.

Still need to dial in the Naza but that won't happen until I get everything else sorted.

Liking the frame but wish the arms weren't as flexy. Also noticed that one of my legs doesn't sit as flat as the other 3. Rebuilt it twice and it didn't help. Not cool...

Anyway - most of my vibe issues are sorted. My video is pretty darn stable. No complaints there.

Looking forward to tweaking it and getting things straightened out!

Originally Posted by robstach

Got her airborne but I definitely need to switch to 4s if I keep these t-motor 900kv .... wayyy underpowered on 3s.

Still need to dial in the Naza but that won't happen until I get everything else sorted.

Liking the frame but wish the arms weren't as flexy. Also noticed that one of my legs doesn't sit as flat as the other 3. Rebuilt it twice and it didn't help. Not cool...

Anyway - most of my vibe issues are sorted. My video is pretty darn stable. No complaints there.

Looking forward to tweaking it and getting things straightened out!

Sounds like you are making great progress!! Can you post a few pictures of your machine?
Best,
alan

Originally Posted by AlanFlorida

Sounds like you are making great progress!! Can you post a few pictures of your machine?
Best,
alan

Progress is slow but that's by my own hand. I rushed through some things and didn't do my homework .... BUT, there's an end in sight! Been meaning to post pictures .. here they are. Still needs some tidying up but it's getting there.