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Hi. I also can balance somehow easily on the factory marks (nose heavy), however I've been trying to find a better CG and for me it's behind the factory marks, but it requires about 16 grams on the tail. I'm using this as a guide:
http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=255 I do not have yet a definitive position, but working on it. |
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Why would you add weight, by moveing the Battery back you change the CG point.. |
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Because I already moved the battery (3s 1.8a) as far back I can, without having to extend the battery tray. Which I'm trying to avoid, at least until I find a cg that I'm really comfortable with. BTW, I had a nose in crash about 2 weeks ago, and the nose was bent bad, so it has a little more weight from the repair (some fiberglass and about 4 inches of steel rod).
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You don't have to extend the battery tray , just undo the screws move the tray back and re-screw the battery tray Good idea with the steel rods. .
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Joined Sep 2010
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Can you guys help me out with some quick answers, I don't wanna go through the whole thread at the moment...But once I will do
...I would like to have a speedy setup, how much speed can the existing wings handle? Do you guys reinforce them or they are stiff enough...I heard I would have to reinforce the motor mount, is it a hard task or not so much? Which motor and servo's would you recommend for a speedy setup (by speedy i mean that it climbs fast and could also perform a fast low pass)...Maybe I'll once also fpv it, is the wing strong enough to mount a 150g hd cam on the wing (far enough that the prop won't be in the view)? Thanks guys! |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fiberglassing the motormount/Firewall will give you added strenght See post 852 for my set up... Sean |
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Here's my Vid ,not too many agressive manuevers. A few Rolls , loops good cilmb rate with the set up I have...
.. |
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Thank you, the rods are glued in with CA and baking soda before covering it with the fiberglass. |
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CofG/Battery Position I don't understand all this talk about moving the battery tray to get the CoG correct. All I ever do (when there is space - as there is in this glider) is when using the Velcro is to put a full strip of 'loop' on the battery and a full strip of 'hook' on the battery tray, then adjust the battery backwards and forwards depending on what size/weight battery I'm using. I was going to take photos, but I'm too lazy, and I'm sure you get the picture/idea! Or am I missing something!? B!LL! Crushed Nose PS: FBM224 (regarding post#859) and everyone I guess - When I cartwheeled and crashed my Phoenix just after launch because of stupidly launching when I had not done radio and control surface checks and it turned out the ailerons were plugged into the flaps and visa versa, the nose got crushed in about 8mm, snapped motor shaft, lost about 2 inches off a wing tip and took the rudder off. The wing tip and rudder were easy fixes, but the crushed nose and broken motor shaft were a hassle. Luckily I had spare motor shafts the right size. As for the nose I just soaked it in almost boiling water (well from the hot water tap - not the kettle) I managed to work it back into shape fairly good. If you look at pictures in post#847 you can see the nose is not in 'factory mint' condition after the repair, but the plane is still performing great. I've found no need to strengthen the nose, I just will try to avoid idiot noob mistakes in the future so I don't have any unintended contacts with terrain! B!LL! |
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Ok, now you´ve got that, strenghten the firewall as described in this thread and get a proper set of blades from Aeronaut and you´re all set to have a very pleasant flying experience! |
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