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Old Yesterday, 11:40 AM
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Greensboro, NC
Joined Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by aeronca View Post
That's weird. I've always had satisfactory results when using liquid flux and 60/40 solder. Like you, I always roughen up the wire first. I normally use an 80- watt soldering iron with good results.

Aeronca
And try wrapping with thin copper wire. Conducts the heat and wicks the solder well. That and lots of flux paste before heating works for me.

That said, as an earlier poster mentioned, on this size plane, unwaxed dental floss and shoe goo works great. Cover with heat shrink tubing makes for an attractive and strong, flexible joint.
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Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM
Kimbers Keeper.
Joined Nov 2014
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Don't forget to clean all the flux off when you are done. It will corrode the wire over time.
Hot water, tooth brush.

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Old Yesterday, 12:45 PM
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Netherlands, NB, Oirschot
Joined Dec 2014
83 Posts
My gas soldering iron gets up to 400C when used with a tip, as a torch up to 1300 but a flame isn't really suitable for lead tin based soldering (Burns the paste/flux).

Maybe I should try my soldering station, that gets up to 420C, might just be enough.
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Old Yesterday, 12:48 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHOFM View Post
Don't forget to clean all the flux off when you are done. It will corrode the wire over time.
Hot water, tooth brush.

That's a decent looking set of gear. I'll have to do something with mine soon too.

I just bought some Dave Brown 4 1/2" Lite Flite Wheels to replace the stock. They won't look as nifty as a set of inflatables, but they're $14 and they'll give some traction in a cross wind. Also picked up a Ohio Superstar tail wheel set. I might even be able to steer soon.
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Old Yesterday, 12:56 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floriske.nl View Post
My gas soldering iron gets up to 400C when used with a tip, as a torch up to 1300 but a flame isn't really suitable for lead tin based soldering (Burns the paste/flux).

Maybe I should try my soldering station, that gets up to 420C, might just be enough.
I'd think the broader heat source of a flame would be more effective, but I'd use acetylene instead of butane. Silver solder and a acid flux will work better for your high heat issue.
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Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
Crash tests done dirt cheap!
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United States, WV, Lewisburg
Joined Feb 2014
46 Posts
I did mine with the minimal heat of an ancient 40 year old soldering iron, some stripped copper telephone wire for wrapping and ancient lead rosin core solder. Its held up great for 30 or so flights on my Funcub and 20 or so with a Gemini. Sand the wire landing gear to strip all the coatings off before you solder.

I would not use a flame or too much heat.

Just my $0.02 worth. YMMV...
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Old Yesterday, 04:14 PM
Wada ya mean, over engineered?
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United States, CA, Clearlake Oaks
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcowart View Post
Nice installations. Thanks cubcrafter and gabe - That's great info and pictures. What did you guys use to attach the 1/8" ply to the fuselage bottom? Is it just an adhesive, or are there through bolts into the battery compartment area to secure the outside plate?

Which adhesive did you use? Medium CA, hot glue.........?

Thanks again, I'm going to follow your patterns exactly.

Mike in Douglasville
Thanks Mike,

On mine my homemade stiffener/motor mount sits on the bottom of the fuselage interior, I inlet the landing gear plate flush with the exterior and had the holes for the gear drilled in the gear plate and drilled through the foam (note that on 'Got Rock's' what remained of the foam fuselage the 'V' bottom was sanded flat). I then ran short 5/16" dowels into the foam and glued them in (sandwiched between the stiffener and gear plate) with CA, drilled through the dowels for screws to pass through and put blind nut's on the stiffener side, I then fiber glassed over the gear plate + 1" beyond (with CA, not resin) and installed the gear! - Easy peasy!

I think this might have been a little over kill (that's where the "Wada ya mean, over engineered?' comes from). I think a well glued 1/8" ply plate glued to a 'flattened area the size of the plate' so you have full plate to foam contact would be sufficient.

PS I'll be installing another set on my AST FunCub real soon (build log on my blog) and it will probably be simplified a bit if you'd care to follow it there.
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Last edited by cubcrafter60; Yesterday at 04:51 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 06:51 PM
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United States, MS, Tupelo
Joined May 2014
9 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by floriske.nl View Post
Just did a quick test on soldering a few pieces of piano wire together but without luck so far.

Roughened up both ends, cleaned them with alcohol and tried soldering them with my gas soldering iron and lead based solder. This just wouldn't stick/flow properly

Reckon I'll have to go with silver solder and higher temps instead.
Higher temps may be needed, but I didn't read that used any flux. Your prep works sounds great. I'd try adding flux before going to silver solder.
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Old Yesterday, 09:27 PM
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Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,333 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by floriske.nl View Post
Just did a quick test on soldering a few pieces of piano wire together but without luck so far.

Roughened up both ends, cleaned them with alcohol and tried soldering them with my gas soldering iron and lead based solder. This just wouldn't stick/flow properly

Reckon I'll have to go with silver solder and higher temps instead.
I used polymorph
InstaMorph RC Plane Repair (8 min 25 sec)


VERY easy and very strong. I also secure the gear to the fuse with Polymorph. No need for screws or bolts.
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Old Today, 04:45 AM
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Netherlands, NB, Oirschot
Joined Dec 2014
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleaha View Post
Higher temps may be needed, but I didn't read that used any flux. Your prep works sounds great. I'd try adding flux before going to silver solder.
I used F-SW 26 soldering flux/paste.

Am going to try my electric soldering station, maybe the gas torch with soldering tip doesn't get enough heat into the material.

Using the flame would generate more heat and be ok with S39 and silver solder, but it simply burns the F-SW 26 paste too quickly/at too low temps.

Edit: just figured that I clamped the test pieces in a steel machine clamp, maybe that takes too much heat out of the material as well. Will try a different clamping method.
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Last edited by floriske.nl; Today at 06:24 AM.
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