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Old Nov 12, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Thanks Tom, I think I'm leaning towards an NV, unless by a slim chance an un-used Tee Dee comes on the market at a fair price. I've come to the conclusion that the second hand market is too pricey given that you don't really know what you're getting.
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Old Nov 12, 2013, 11:45 PM
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It's all getting a bit too silly for me:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-VINTA...torefresh=true

That's more than I paid for an OS 46AX.
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Old Nov 13, 2013, 06:55 AM
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It's all getting a bit too silly for me:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-VINTA...torefresh=true

That's more than I paid for an OS 46AX.
That is a bit pricey if you're looking for a runner. For an engine to add to your collection it's still a bit of cash but not that much out of line. Two things, it's an .051 which are much less common than the ,049's and second, it's in a plastic jewel case. This dates it to 1975 or earlier since they stopped using the plastic jewel case and went to cardboard in '75. It also appears to be mint, no scratches on the plastic and the cardboard looks good.

I have a TD .049 in the jewel case that I acquired a few years ago which came with a new in package glow head and it cost me $68 which I thought was pretty good. That NIP glow head would typically go for $10 or more by itself. At the time a new in box TD would cost you about $60 so the jewel cased TD was a steal.

If you really wanted a Cox I'd look for a new or near new engine w/o a box. Having the box and all the papers/wrenches definitely drives up the price. But as you said you run the risk that the engine isn't as good as the seller claims it is. I think in your case you would be better off with a new Norvel.


Mike
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Old Nov 13, 2013, 05:42 PM
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Very interesting Mike. Being a collector can be an expensive exercise, but I guess the aim is to make a profit over time.

I think I'm pretty much convinced now with the Norvel. A new engine at a considerable discount to a TD - cant' go wrong there. If I go with the 074 I can probably go with a faster prop too.
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Old Nov 14, 2013, 10:39 AM
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Very interesting Mike. Being a collector can be an expensive exercise, but I guess the aim is to make a profit over time.

I think I'm pretty much convinced now with the Norvel. A new engine at a considerable discount to a TD - cant' go wrong there. If I go with the 074 I can probably go with a faster prop too.
I think the Norvel is your best choice. For me, since everything else I fly is electric, the only attraction to using glow is a Cox (or maybe Wen-Mac, OK Cub, etc.) on a period model. And even then I may do electric on some of them, particularly the Skylark twin I have planned.

It is possible to get a new TD .049 for far less than a new Norvel if a guy's patient enough, I've bought brand new TD's w/o box or papers for $35-$40. But of course the Norvel would mean more power, throttle and muffler.

As far as collecting I don't necessarily look at it as a sell it for a profit thing. I have several engines that I'll probably never sell. One of my prized possessions is a NIP Babe Bee in a cardboard/blister pack with a price on it of $3.98, dating it to the sixties! I also have a NIP Pee Wee .020 from the same era. The ones that are easy to obtain, the reed valves, TD's and Medallions w/o box, I pick up when I can get a good deal on them and then sometimes I sell them off.


Mike
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Old Nov 16, 2013, 11:54 AM
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A thought occurred to me the other day. I was wondering if a pair of reed valve Cox engines would be too much on a Jr Skylark. I'm definitely going to build a Jr Skylark and have thought of doing twin electric or possibly a single engine Cox. But from people have said it's performance is pretty marginal with a Babe Bee. I do have a Medallion RC .049 that I could use though.


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Old Nov 16, 2013, 08:32 PM
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From memory Mike the Skylark needs a decent prop to get it moving properly, which is why I had the TD 051. That was the advice given to me by one of Australia's top flyers at the time. I doubt very much that a Babe Bee will cut it, but if your Medallion is up to the 051's specs it should be ok.

I think the general standard for twins was a couple of .020's, but don't quote me on that. I don't see why reed valve Cox engines wouldn't be suitable as surely that's what most people would have used at the time?

I'm thinking of doing mine with a removable firewall that can be easily swapped between glow and electric. Haven't thought it through yet though.
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Old Nov 16, 2013, 09:48 PM
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From memory Mike the Skylark needs a decent prop to get it moving properly, which is why I had the TD 051. That was the advice given to me by one of Australia's top flyers at the time. I doubt very much that a Babe Bee will cut it, but if your Medallion is up to the 051's specs it should be ok.

I think the general standard for twins was a couple of .020's, but don't quote me on that. I don't see why reed valve Cox engines wouldn't be suitable as surely that's what most people would have used at the time?

I'm thinking of doing mine with a removable firewall that can be easily swapped between glow and electric. Haven't thought it through yet though.
The data I found on the http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm site would seem to indicate that the Babe Bee would be a poor choice compared to either the Black Widow or a Medallion. A TD though is quite a jump in power than either of them. One thing too that the charts show is the big drop in power between the RC and non RC versions of the Medallion. And the RC Medallion is on 30% vs the non RC Medallion on 15%.

Although they say you can use a pair of .010's or either of the .020's, it would seem that 2 TD .020's would be the minimum. I have a single TD .010, a single TD .020 and a pair of Pee Wee .020's. So my only twin option would be the Pee Wee's. The more I think of it the more I think a pair of reed valve .049's would put too much weight too far back to work.

I do have a Medallion .15 I could use. Too much?


Mike
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