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Old May 09, 2014, 08:00 PM
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AfroMini 32 fc, discussion and setup

since there is not very much information directly related to the AfroMini 32 flight controller, I figured I would start a thread to try to help people like me who are really new to this fc and how to set it up.
I will be keeping this post as up to date as I can with setup, tuning and flying this powerful little fc.

I am very new to baseflight, and the naze series of flight controllers so this will be a lot of learning on my part as well, and I invite anyone who has a better knowledge of this and its setups to please help and speak up with their knowledge!

starting with where to buy it, It is available from abusemark.com

http://abusemark.com/store/index.php...products_id=45

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AfroMini 32
2,000JPY
This is a micro version of Naze32, designed for use with OpenAero32 or baseflight.

33mm x 16.5mm
1.75 gram without headers
STM32F103CBT6 32-bit Cortex M3 processor
MPU6050 Accelerometer/Gyro
BMP085 Barometer (rev0)
BMP180 Barometer (rev1)
Only supports PPM RC Input
1 throttle, 4 servo outputs (for airplane mode)
4 motor outputs for quadrotor mode (rev0)
6 motor outputs for multirotor mode (rev1)
2 3.3V analog inputs (for pitot etc in airplane mode)
Additional UART pads for GPS/Spektrum
Currently shipping version can be powered with up to 16V

Requires USB>3.3V serial cable (not included)
Currently shipping rev1 GREEN 0.8mm thin boards.

Finally, this has a manual: DOWNLOAD

Note: This hardware cannot be used with any DJI frames. This includes: FlameWheel 330, 450, 550, or any future or past frames released by DJI.

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this is just the beginning. I will be adding more to this shortly!
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Old May 09, 2014, 08:00 PM
Team Warpsquad!!!
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Links to more information


This one really helped with basic setup and CLI settings

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1219

Please note, this was written for the acro naze 32, the mini afro connections for the sat rx are a little different
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklein View Post
3 connections required

I soldered a 2 pin header on the board at receiver connections G and 4 (see pic) and pulled 3.3v from the board (the red wire, should have made it shorter). I used a female connector on the 3.3v so I didn't have live power hanging out if the sat is disconnected but you could also use a 3 pin header on G and 4 and tie the 3.3v to the 3rd header pin floating above (recommended). Alternately you can use one of those sat adapter cables to drop 5v to 3.3 but it's really no easier than pulling power from the board that TC conveniently provided for us.

Bind your satellite to tx in advance by attaching it to an rx and binding the pair. I'm using a Lemon DSM2 satellite bound with an 8ch Lemon Rx - I get 7 channels out of it which is more than I need for an acro board. Remove the sat and attach to the Naze board (ground to ground, signal to pin 4, power to the 3.3v source). The second pic isn't the best but you can see the hookup.

Pull up the chrome configurator, go into CLI and enter the commands
feature serial rx
set serialrx_type=1
map taer1234


Check stick response in configurator. If it doesn't behave properly (i.e. the channels are mixing with each other or jumping around) then your satellite is bound in 1024 (10 bit) mode. I *think* you might only get 6 channels in this case but I'm not sure. Depending on the tx/rx used to bind, you can either force a different mode when binding or go back into CLI and enter the command
set serialrx_type=0

Here's a useful page to bookmark with those CLI values https://code.google.com/p/afrodevice...liSetVariables




A quick run through on calibrating esc's. Please make sure you take the props off for this!


Quote:
Originally Posted by KC_703 View Post
The motors need the lipo connected to run from within the Motors tab of Baseflight Configurator.

Use the minthrottle command to specify the value you want the motors to spin when armed. Ideally you would use the motor slider to determine the exact value where all motors spin. If your certain it's 30% of throttle, you can enter the value as read from the Receivers tab.

To calibrate;
- in the CLI set the mincommand to the max throttle position (1800) and save
- wait for reboot (may not be necessary, unless performed automatically)
- then go back to CLI and pre-type mincommand at 1050 (DO NOT PRESS ENTER, KEEP ON SCREEN)
- plug in the lipo and wait for the calibration beeps (usually two beeps of the same tone) from the ESCs
- immediately press enter in the CLI
- ESCs should beep to acknowledge calibration.


I think you may just be missing the lipo connection to run the batteries in the motor tab.

a full list of all the CLI commands
https://github.com/multiwii/baseflig.../CLI-Variables
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Old May 09, 2014, 08:01 PM
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steps for basic setup

step 1: obtain ftdi and get it connected, all I happened to have laying around is a ftdi board for the hobby king micro and mini boards. But I didn't have a connector that would suit my needs with out sacrificing a connector that i need for my other quads. so, I used what I had laying around from previous projects, a micro 4 pin connector and solder on plug. I traced the outputs of the ftdi to the back side where I could solder on what I needed to use.

the pin outs on the bottom of the hk micro ftdi are:
looking at the bottom with usb plug facing towards you, are from left to right, gnd, +, tx, rx

once the fc is connected to the computer via the ftdi, you need the Baseflight software, the google chrome app is here
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...nofofigk?hl=en
if you dont want the Chrome app, you can download the Baseflight configurator here
https://github.com/multiwii/baseflight-configurator

once that is downloaded, and running, you should be able to open baseflight, select the proper port, then click "connect" and it should detect the ftdi and fc.
you will know if everything is properly working when you go to the "realtime data" tab and see movement on the display that corresponds with the fc being moved.

next step is to update the firmware on the fc, which is easiest done with the Chrome app, as It automatically detects the fw version currently on the fc, and automatically updates the board to the current firmware.

from there click on the "CLI" tab
go down to the bottom and type the following one line at a time

feature PPM
feature serialrx
set serialrx=0 (or 1 but i think 0)
map TEAR1234
feature servo_tilt (enables proper channel outputs for a quadcopter)

it will say "xxxxxx enabled" after each commands, for the "set serialrx=0 or 1" depends if your tx/rx is 1024 or 2048. you will know if you need to change that if you connect the tx and all the channels are either correctly responding to tx inputs, or if they are all over the place. if they are all wrong, change the value of the "set serialrx=0" to "set serialrx=1"

from there all you have to do is select another tab and it will write/reboot the fc with the current changes.

at that point you are ready to calibrate the acc, write, then start flying/tuning!


please, if anyone has any more input to help make sure i am relaying the correct setup info, let me know and I will be sure to update this post as needed!





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motor assignments for quad x configuration
s1=rear right motor
s2=front right motor
s3=rear left motor
s4=front left motor



multiwii 32bit section.
http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=21
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Old May 09, 2014, 08:02 PM
Team Warpsquad!!!
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and might as well save one more spot...
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Old May 11, 2014, 08:07 PM
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Very nice! Much needed.

Subscribed.
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Old May 12, 2014, 12:38 AM
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Looks interesting.
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Old May 13, 2014, 01:26 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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I was in the process of retrofitting a "powered by KK2" wing with Nazemini, and the wires were already routed to where I had no slack for direct soldering connections. So I came up with a scheme for a breakout board and drew up a pocket reference for it.

I also drew in 2 "mod circuits"; 1) add a bypass cap to drop ripple on the 3v3 line from 300uA to 60uA, and 2) a Vbat voltage divider. The cap mod is totally optional. It will help clean up sensor measurements, which may be particularly important for those powering a 5883 off of the Nazemini 3v3 reg. The Vbat divider makes Nazemini A4 act just like the Vbat pin on Naze32; I can plug my 3s or 4s lipo to it directly. Note that Naze32 has a slightly different 1k/10k divider that is good to up 33V. I chose 1k/6k8 because I never plan on using more than a 4s lipo, and the 6.8 ratio gives better resolution with 3s and 4s.

The last picture shows my overall messy implementation. This is going on a big wing (no compass), so I didn't bother with the bypass cap. You can see the 1k SMD resistor secured to my Nazemini between ground (on that capacitor) and A4. The orange wire soldered to A4 has an 1/8W 6k8 through hole resistor in series (wrapped in heatshrink inline between the breakout and main board). Having A4 lined up near the ground on that capacitor worked out perfectly; almost like timecop had the same idea!

The black foam on the corner seems hacked, I know, but I tried thinking of a way to protect the baro from wind and sunlight. The baro hole is so close to the corner of the board that I was worried with just glue I would either cover the hole or it would not be very secure. So I hobbled together a strap with aramid and hotglue. The baro works much better now... now I just hope I never get bit by that bug where the BM180 inits as an MP6050.

On a side note, without the Freescale ACC in the way, we get an A5 pad (the ACC used to use that pin). I have a spare expensive 1psi differential pressure bridge, and wanted to get an INA125 for it and wire it to A5 for a pitot probe. I'm not sure if the code currently includes this feature, but a pitot probe on A5 is implied on both Abusemark and in the manual. If not, that sounds like a good rainy day project.

Cheers,
Kev
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Last edited by Truglodite; May 13, 2014 at 01:33 PM.
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Old May 13, 2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
I was in the process of retrofitting a "powered by KK2" wing with Nazemini, and the wires were already routed to where I had no slack for direct soldering connections. So I came up with a scheme for a breakout board and drew up a pocket reference for it.

I also drew in 2 "mod circuits"; 1) add a bypass cap to drop ripple on the 3v3 line from 300uA to 60uA, and 2) a Vbat voltage divider. The cap mod is totally optional. It will help clean up sensor measurements, which may be particularly important for those powering a 5883 off of the Nazemini 3v3 reg. The Vbat divider makes Nazemini A4 act just like the Vbat pin on Naze32; I can plug my 3s or 4s lipo to it directly. Note that Naze32 has a slightly different 1k/10k divider that is good to up 33V. I chose 1k/6k8 because I never plan on using more than a 4s lipo, and the 6.8 ratio gives better resolution with 3s and 4s.

The last picture shows my overall messy implementation. This is going on a big wing (no compass), so I didn't bother with the bypass cap. You can see the 1k SMD resistor secured to my Nazemini between ground (on that capacitor) and A4. The orange wire soldered to A4 has an 1/8W 6k8 through hole resistor in series (wrapped in heatshrink inline between the breakout and main board). Having A4 lined up near the ground on that capacitor worked out perfectly; almost like timecop had the same idea!

The black foam on the corner seems hacked, I know, but I tried thinking of a way to protect the baro from wind and sunlight. The baro hole is so close to the corner of the board that I was worried with just glue I would either cover the hole or it would not be very secure. So I hobbled together a strap with aramid and hotglue. The baro works much better now... now I just hope I never get bit by that bug where the BM180 inits as an MP6050.

On a side note, without the Freescale ACC in the way, we get an A5 pad (the ACC used to use that pin). I have a spare expensive 1psi differential pressure bridge, and wanted to get an INA125 for it and wire it to A5 for a pitot probe. I'm not sure if the code currently includes this feature, but a pitot probe on A5 is implied on both Abusemark and in the manual. If not, that sounds like a good rainy day project.

Cheers,
Kev
nice!
I did some testing using the newer Bosch baro.
Looks also much better as the old one.
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Old May 13, 2014, 03:08 PM
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Another project for down the road...

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Old May 13, 2014, 07:12 PM
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Very nice thread, second one you have made thats perfect for me , i was wondering if it was safe to get 3,3v from the afromini when you posted in the naze thread and got that answered .
I got the 1309 motors from the brushless thread and bought a afromini and a satelite after i found out multiwii on a pro mini weighs 8g to get the weight down. Still waiting on the xp-7a esc though only been 3 months or something now . Did you manage to flash the yeps? And what frame is that?

Truglodite very nice mods, might use the voltage one if i dont have the patience to wait for the minimosd . Will it work on 2s too or do you need different values? And airspeed would be awesome
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Old May 13, 2014, 07:33 PM
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Truglodite, thanks for that!

Jetboat, the afromini is very hard to beat in terms of weight and abilities!

I did get blheli flashed on the yep 7a esc's thanks to their newest release. I am still figuring out how to do the 1 wire flashing with it, but it works for now which is a huge step over the factory programming
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Old May 13, 2014, 07:51 PM
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Very nice, i thought they werent supported. With 1 wire programming and a lower weight they look like the best 2s esc now. Kinda hoping the xp-7a i bought this time is also a fake so i have a excuse to pick them up. Already have parts for 3.5 quads but only one built and its struggeling since im stuck with 1s esc
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Old May 13, 2014, 08:43 PM
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This board has frsky telemetry support?
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Old May 13, 2014, 09:49 PM
Dirty Side Down.......o~^o
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United States, MD, Sharpsburg
Joined Mar 2014
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While way out of my league in knowledge, I have been looking for a very small, but capable FC to use on a Phoenix Flight Gear CF Frame that is designed for a RCLogger Eye One Xtreme FC... the frame has potential and is mint- and can hold the 1390 something t-motors. I just wanted small esc's and a small FC and 2C power with as little weight as possible- I want to make a screaming LOS back pocket flyer for insane goofing off during my mini h motor cool downs.

I am hoping to learn something in here as this looks promising- and I have become a fan of the Naze so I hope that provides me a foundation.
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Old May 13, 2014, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboatftw View Post
...Will it work on 2s too or do you need different values? And airspeed would be awesome
Yes as shown it will work with 2s too. Regarding airspeed... I think this is the device will fit nicely:

http://cache.freescale.com/files/sen.../MP3V5004G.pdf

It's like the standard APM pitot chip, but 3V instead of 5V. Bypass caps can go on the legs and the thing can be heatshrink installed... way simpler than my originally thought. Now I gotta see where it would fit in the code, if it's not already there.

Kev
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