|May 09, 2014, 08:00 PM|
AfroMini 32 fc, discussion and setup
since there is not very much information directly related to the AfroMini 32 flight controller, I figured I would start a thread to try to help people like me who are really new to this fc and how to set it up.
I will be keeping this post as up to date as I can with setup, tuning and flying this powerful little fc.
I am very new to baseflight, and the naze series of flight controllers so this will be a lot of learning on my part as well, and I invite anyone who has a better knowledge of this and its setups to please help and speak up with their knowledge!
starting with where to buy it, It is available from abusemark.com
This is a micro version of Naze32, designed for use with OpenAero32 or baseflight.
33mm x 16.5mm
1.75 gram without headers
STM32F103CBT6 32-bit Cortex M3 processor
BMP085 Barometer (rev0)
BMP180 Barometer (rev1)
Only supports PPM RC Input
1 throttle, 4 servo outputs (for airplane mode)
4 motor outputs for quadrotor mode (rev0)
6 motor outputs for multirotor mode (rev1)
2 3.3V analog inputs (for pitot etc in airplane mode)
Additional UART pads for GPS/Spektrum
Currently shipping version can be powered with up to 16V
Requires USB>3.3V serial cable (not included)
Currently shipping rev1 GREEN 0.8mm thin boards.
Finally, this has a manual: DOWNLOAD
Note: This hardware cannot be used with any DJI frames. This includes: FlameWheel 330, 450, 550, or any future or past frames released by DJI.
this is just the beginning. I will be adding more to this shortly!
|May 09, 2014, 08:00 PM|
Links to more information
This one really helped with basic setup and CLI settings
Please note, this was written for the acro naze 32, the mini afro connections for the sat rx are a little different
A quick run through on calibrating esc's. Please make sure you take the props off for this!
a full list of all the CLI commands
|May 09, 2014, 08:01 PM|
steps for basic setup
step 1: obtain ftdi and get it connected, all I happened to have laying around is a ftdi board for the hobby king micro and mini boards. But I didn't have a connector that would suit my needs with out sacrificing a connector that i need for my other quads. so, I used what I had laying around from previous projects, a micro 4 pin connector and solder on plug. I traced the outputs of the ftdi to the back side where I could solder on what I needed to use.
the pin outs on the bottom of the hk micro ftdi are:
looking at the bottom with usb plug facing towards you, are from left to right, gnd, +, tx, rx
once the fc is connected to the computer via the ftdi, you need the Baseflight software, the google chrome app is here
if you dont want the Chrome app, you can download the Baseflight configurator here
once that is downloaded, and running, you should be able to open baseflight, select the proper port, then click "connect" and it should detect the ftdi and fc.
you will know if everything is properly working when you go to the "realtime data" tab and see movement on the display that corresponds with the fc being moved.
next step is to update the firmware on the fc, which is easiest done with the Chrome app, as It automatically detects the fw version currently on the fc, and automatically updates the board to the current firmware.
from there click on the "CLI" tab
go down to the bottom and type the following one line at a time
set serialrx=0 (or 1 but i think 0)
feature servo_tilt (enables proper channel outputs for a quadcopter)
it will say "xxxxxx enabled" after each commands, for the "set serialrx=0 or 1" depends if your tx/rx is 1024 or 2048. you will know if you need to change that if you connect the tx and all the channels are either correctly responding to tx inputs, or if they are all over the place. if they are all wrong, change the value of the "set serialrx=0" to "set serialrx=1"
from there all you have to do is select another tab and it will write/reboot the fc with the current changes.
at that point you are ready to calibrate the acc, write, then start flying/tuning!
please, if anyone has any more input to help make sure i am relaying the correct setup info, let me know and I will be sure to update this post as needed!
motor assignments for quad x configuration
s1=rear right motor
s2=front right motor
s3=rear left motor
s4=front left motor
multiwii 32bit section.
|May 13, 2014, 01:26 PM|
I was in the process of retrofitting a "powered by KK2" wing with Nazemini, and the wires were already routed to where I had no slack for direct soldering connections. So I came up with a scheme for a breakout board and drew up a pocket reference for it.
I also drew in 2 "mod circuits"; 1) add a bypass cap to drop ripple on the 3v3 line from 300uA to 60uA, and 2) a Vbat voltage divider. The cap mod is totally optional. It will help clean up sensor measurements, which may be particularly important for those powering a 5883 off of the Nazemini 3v3 reg. The Vbat divider makes Nazemini A4 act just like the Vbat pin on Naze32; I can plug my 3s or 4s lipo to it directly. Note that Naze32 has a slightly different 1k/10k divider that is good to up 33V. I chose 1k/6k8 because I never plan on using more than a 4s lipo, and the 6.8 ratio gives better resolution with 3s and 4s.
The last picture shows my overall messy implementation. This is going on a big wing (no compass), so I didn't bother with the bypass cap. You can see the 1k SMD resistor secured to my Nazemini between ground (on that capacitor) and A4. The orange wire soldered to A4 has an 1/8W 6k8 through hole resistor in series (wrapped in heatshrink inline between the breakout and main board). Having A4 lined up near the ground on that capacitor worked out perfectly; almost like timecop had the same idea!
The black foam on the corner seems hacked, I know, but I tried thinking of a way to protect the baro from wind and sunlight. The baro hole is so close to the corner of the board that I was worried with just glue I would either cover the hole or it would not be very secure. So I hobbled together a strap with aramid and hotglue. The baro works much better now... now I just hope I never get bit by that bug where the BM180 inits as an MP6050.
On a side note, without the Freescale ACC in the way, we get an A5 pad (the ACC used to use that pin). I have a spare expensive 1psi differential pressure bridge, and wanted to get an INA125 for it and wire it to A5 for a pitot probe. I'm not sure if the code currently includes this feature, but a pitot probe on A5 is implied on both Abusemark and in the manual. If not, that sounds like a good rainy day project.
|May 13, 2014, 02:33 PM|
Joined Nov 2013
I did some testing using the newer Bosch baro.
Looks also much better as the old one.
|May 13, 2014, 07:12 PM|
Joined Oct 2009
Very nice thread, second one you have made thats perfect for me , i was wondering if it was safe to get 3,3v from the afromini when you posted in the naze thread and got that answered .
I got the 1309 motors from the brushless thread and bought a afromini and a satelite after i found out multiwii on a pro mini weighs 8g to get the weight down. Still waiting on the xp-7a esc though only been 3 months or something now . Did you manage to flash the yeps? And what frame is that?
Truglodite very nice mods, might use the voltage one if i dont have the patience to wait for the minimosd . Will it work on 2s too or do you need different values? And airspeed would be awesome
|May 13, 2014, 07:33 PM|
Truglodite, thanks for that!
Jetboat, the afromini is very hard to beat in terms of weight and abilities!
I did get blheli flashed on the yep 7a esc's thanks to their newest release. I am still figuring out how to do the 1 wire flashing with it, but it works for now which is a huge step over the factory programming
|May 13, 2014, 07:51 PM|
Joined Oct 2009
Very nice, i thought they werent supported. With 1 wire programming and a lower weight they look like the best 2s esc now. Kinda hoping the xp-7a i bought this time is also a fake so i have a excuse to pick them up. Already have parts for 3.5 quads but only one built and its struggeling since im stuck with 1s esc
|May 13, 2014, 09:49 PM|
While way out of my league in knowledge, I have been looking for a very small, but capable FC to use on a Phoenix Flight Gear CF Frame that is designed for a RCLogger Eye One Xtreme FC... the frame has potential and is mint- and can hold the 1390 something t-motors. I just wanted small esc's and a small FC and 2C power with as little weight as possible- I want to make a screaming LOS back pocket flyer for insane goofing off during my mini h motor cool downs.
I am hoping to learn something in here as this looks promising- and I have become a fan of the Naze so I hope that provides me a foundation.
|May 13, 2014, 11:39 PM|
It's like the standard APM pitot chip, but 3V instead of 5V. Bypass caps can go on the legs and the thing can be heatshrink installed... way simpler than my originally thought. Now I gotta see where it would fit in the code, if it's not already there.
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