HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 09, 2013, 12:16 AM
Registered User
Stan Rose's Avatar
UK
Joined Dec 2003
536 Posts
Uberjay,

Whilst waiting for the motor to arrive I have run the numbers through both eCalc and Motocalc and as a result I anticipate starting flying this model with an Aeronaut 7X4 folder to keep the performance fairly modest whilst I get her trimmed and then when I feel comfortable with her move to an Aeronaut 8x5 folder which should give me the expected 150 W/lb which is fine for climbing to height then cruising to find thermals, which is what I enjoy.
Stan Rose is offline Find More Posts by Stan Rose
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 09, 2013, 08:19 AM
Registered User
Canada, ON, London
Joined May 2011
1,359 Posts
@Stan

Sounds like a good plan.

Happy skies!
J
uberjay is online now Find More Posts by uberjay
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 09, 2013, 07:55 PM
Soaring Fanatic!
Joined Dec 2008
718 Posts
OK, I've put 2 nice holes in the fuselage just aft of the firewall for cooling. As stated earlier, this was very easy with a dremel sanding drum, and I shoved the vac hose in the fuse too, which took most of the glass dust away

Now wondering what my options are for an exit hole? I'd like maximum airflow over the ESC and battery too so perhaps 2 holes in the rear-side of the fuselage pod would work or is the bottom better like that of kelloggair's post here? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=80

Once again, Thanks to all the contributors to this thread and to SMM for doing their best to be active in this thread too.

-8th
8thelephant is online now Find More Posts by 8thelephant
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 09, 2013, 08:53 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, London
Joined May 2011
1,359 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thelephant View Post
OK, I've put 2 nice holes in the fuselage just aft of the firewall for cooling. ...

-8th
Hey 8th... in my case I only put the nose holes (one on each side just aft of fw like you) in and the tail boom which is hollow was what I relied upon.

With my motor (the aftermarket, 2000 kv) heat was not an issue. I think with any amount of cooling the stock motor and prop combination was destined for failure - well, too much of a risk IMHO.

The main reason I didn't add the belly / aft holes was that I couldn't see a good way to do that and maintain the strength of the boom mount point. I think that's the key IF you choose to open it up. Ensure that you do it in a way that maintains structural soundness, etc.

One idea might be to drill smaller 1/8" or so holes in a pattern to form a 'grate' of some sort... thus (potentially) retaining some of the rigidity and helping to keep grass, etc. out of the pod.

I'd look to the others that have done the aft hole to get proper feedback though. I'm just conjecturing here.

Cheers,
J
uberjay is online now Find More Posts by uberjay
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2013, 09:19 PM
Registered User
USA, IL, Chicago
Joined Aug 2007
61 Posts
if your using it for a glider change the battery to a 2s and try it . enough power for the up and glide down, get the weight down to 400grams and it will glide better and you will see the tip stall coming ops forgot move cg back a little enjoy
sprintr is offline Find More Posts by sprintr
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 11, 2013, 04:34 PM
Soaring Fanatic!
Joined Dec 2008
718 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberjay View Post
Hey 8th...
......One idea might be to drill smaller 1/8" or so holes in a pattern to form a 'grate' of some sort... thus (potentially) retaining some of the rigidity and helping to keep grass, etc. out of the pod.

I'd look to the others that have done the aft hole to get proper feedback though. I'm just conjecturing here.

Cheers,
J
Thanks J. I'll see how hot the stock setup on lower throttle gets and maybe reinforce and drill where needed. A staggered hole pattern would look really nice The glass tubes take up most of the boom, so I'm not sure how much air flow can pass through there, though this has worked well for my other ships with more "open" booms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintr View Post
if your using it for a glider change the battery to a 2s and try it . enough power for the up and glide down, get the weight down to 400grams and it will glide better and you will see the tip stall coming ops forgot move cg back a little enjoy
sprintr, would that be an 800mah 2S batt?
And how far back would you have to position it?
8thelephant is online now Find More Posts by 8thelephant
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 17, 2013, 02:25 PM
I'll Take The Case!!!
Harvey Birdman's Avatar
Antarctica
Joined Dec 2012
77 Posts
Wow, this thread blew up! I haven't been over here in a while.

One thing that I did was change the ESC timing to HIGH and that pretty much fixed all my heat issues with the ESC, Motor and Battery. If you are having cooling problems, give it a try. If you leave it at MEDIUM, you will probably burn the electrics up pretty quickly.

I did grind two cooling holes on the sides of my fuselage with a Dremmel just behind the firewall and they seem to work nicely. I dont really have an exit hole other than the back of the boom. I did quite a bit of rearranging of the ESC, receiver and extra servo cables so that I have good air flow inside the fuselage too. I used to just have all that junk just shoved down in there and it took up all the space inside so no air was able to move around.

Make sure that the metal rod attached to the little removable canopy does not EVER touch the motor. If it does, you will burn up your motor very quickly. I ended up trimming the front of the rod down quite a bit and I double secure the canopy to the fuselage with tape so that it doesn't move in flight. The tape I use for the canopy is described in the next paragraph.

You can protect your underbelly with "Scotch (3M) Heavy Duty Packing Tape", which you can find in the model airplane aisle of your local office supply store. It is the thicker clear packing tape and is also very useful for wrapping balsa elevons on other planes. The "Extreme Tape" (bi-directional strapping tape) is VERY strong but it is heavy and it will totally dissentigrate in the sun very quickly. Its good if you use it under the model covering on planes other than the Speedo. Tape is very good stuff but remember, not all tapes are created equally!!! A sharpie does a nice job of touching up any scratches in the black paint on the fuselage.

I have been taking my speedo to the slope and flying it there in addition to flying on the flat lands. When slope flying, I dont really use the motor unless I get flushed and need to gain some altitude. With decent lift I can fly the speedo for more than 20 minutes if I dont really use the motor that much. Im sure it would fly longer, but about 20 minutes is as long as I have flown it. I get about 7 to 9 minutes on the 3S battery in the flat land flying.

I hope this helps you guys out. One thing I need to do more research on is transmitter mixing for the rudder. I have a HITEC Aurora 9 and it is a very capable transmitter but I do not know how to use it to its fullest potential. Also, flying planes with rudders is a little foreign to me since I mainly fly planks or flying wings on the slope.
Harvey Birdman is offline Find More Posts by Harvey Birdman
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 06, 2014, 11:46 AM
Soaring Fanatic!
Joined Dec 2008
718 Posts
H. Birdman, I hope you got your Aurora 9 sorted out. Several of my friends have claimed it to be an excellent radio.

I've finally maidened the SE-PNP and have an urge to make the V-Tail at a steeper angle.
Has anyone else done this already? Other than that, it seem like a great flyer with the throttle tamed a bit. I've set my highest point to 70% and still found the ESC to run a little hotter than I'd like; even with the holes in the front....perhaps it's time to cut an exit hole too.
8thelephant is online now Find More Posts by 8thelephant
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion speedo thermo 1.2m southern soarer uk Slope 2521 Apr 16, 2014 12:55 AM
Mini-HowTo Carbon Socking a 1.2M Speedo Thermo Fuselage Mike Furcolow Slope 180 Oct 12, 2013 01:25 AM
Discussion Speedo Electric PNP cody303 High Performance 11 Oct 08, 2013 06:24 PM
Sold Speedo 1.2m Slope Glider **NEW** SOS-TopGunsBro Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 1 Dec 01, 2010 05:42 PM
Discussion 1.2m Speedo Thermal Glider bray Slope 7 Nov 24, 2008 02:24 AM