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Old Oct 29, 2014, 07:20 AM
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United States, FL, Orange City
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No Sound During ESC Calibration

Hi, Getting frustrated and hoping you guys can get me on the right path.

First off, this is a used 450 that I bought last week from someone in the Classified Section and have been trying to it going. I am beginning to think I should have bit the bullet and spent a little extra $$ for new kit.

F450
X2212-13 Kv: 980 II motors
ZTW Spider 30 Amp Opto ESCs
Multiwii Pro 2.2 w/GPS
FrSky Taranis Transmitter w/X9R receiver

When I attempt to calibrate the ESCs, I get no sound (beeps) at all. I have looked at every video I can find and followed the procedures in the Wiki. I have done them individually and all at once (by commenting out the No Fly code).

I have checked the voltage at the BEC and it is within tolerance.

Since I am not getting any sound from the motors, I figured I would just wait for 30 seconds after each movement of the Throttle (thinking maybe that would work).

When I test everything, I ease the throttle forward about 3 clicks and three of the motors start. In another couple of clicks, the 4th motor starts. Funny thing though, sometimes the 4th motor will stop and I'll have give it more throttle to get it going.

I know something is wrong, I just can't figure it out, and my searches are not revealing anything.

It's tough being a noob!

Bill
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 09:23 AM
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Are the motors plugged in? The sound actually comes from the motors, not a speaker or buzzer.
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 09:31 AM
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United States, FL, Orange City
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Yes, all motors are plugged in. When I apply throttle, the two front motors require more throttle before they begin to spin.
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 11:13 AM
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Try putting in a higher max value for the throttle (I don't remember what the parameter is called ). It sounds like they aren't getting a high enough throttle to go into programming mode, but the throttle is too high to arm.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 08:12 AM
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United States, FL, Orange City
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Ok, here's more info .....

I disconnected all 4 ESCs from the FC then I connected each one (one at a time) to the throttle channel of the receiver. Each motor I tested began spinning at the same point on the throttle stick (3rd click). When I connect every thing back together, I get the same result as mentioned above.

Something else is also strange, that I didn't mention previously. When I connect the LiPo, I do not get any tones or beeps from any of the motors.

Advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Bill
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 08:44 AM
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Hmm. The lack of beeps on startup is weird. Do you know if these have SimonK firmware?

The thing I would try at this point is to set the output signal of your radio on the throttle as high as possible. Trim up, endpoints, expo, anything. Or even better, if you have any sort of servo tester, use that. If you can't trigger the calibration mode by doing this, something is super weird with the escs.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 09:12 AM
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From what I understand the ZTW Spider ESCs that have v2 printed on them do. Mine do not. I do no know how old they are as I bought this in used condition.

I do not have a servo tester so I will try to increase the throttle settings in the firmware to see if that does any thing. They are already set at 990 and 2000.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 09:24 AM
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NO Beeps ...

My mistake ,,No post !!
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Last edited by oldcougar50; Oct 30, 2014 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 10:59 AM
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If it doesn't trigger at 2000, something is pretty weird.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 12:14 PM
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check here: http://en.ztwoem.com/technical_detail/newsId=66.html
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 12:29 PM
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Also read that you need to lower your throttle by 10% then calibrate, once done put it back to normal.

Spiders are OPTO so they do not provide power, so you will need an external power source when you calibrate these. BEC needed for 5v to controller +receiver.

Alert Tones
The ZTW ESC is equipped with audible alert tones to indicate abnormal conditions at power up.
If ESC can't enter into working mode after powering up, it indicates that you have not setup throttle calibration.
2. Continuous beeping tone (****) – Indicates that throttle stick is not in the minimum position.
3. Single beeping tone followed by a one second pause (* * * *)– Indicates that the battery pack voltage is not within the
acceptable range. (The ESC automatically checks and verifies the battery voltage once the battery is connected).
4. A single beeping tone followed by a short pause (* * * *) – Indicates that the ESC is unable to detect the normal throttle
signal from the receiver.
Built-in Intelligent ESC Safety Functions
1. Over-heat protection: When the temperature of ESC exceed 110 deg C, the ESC will reduce the output power to allow it too
cool.
2. Lost Throttle signal protection: The ESC will automatically reduces output power to the motor when it detects a lost of
throttle signal for 2 second, a subsequent loss of throttle signal beyond 2 seconds, will cause the ESC automatically to cut
power to the motor.
Powering up the ESC for the first time and setting the Automatic Throttle Calibration
The ZTW ESC features Automatic Throttle Calibration to attain the smoothest throttle response and resolution throughout the
entire throttle range of your transmitter. This step is done once to allow the ESC to “learn and memorize” your Transmitter’s
throttle output signals and only repeated if you change your transmitter.
1.Switch your Transmitter ON and set the throttle stick to its maximum position.
2.Connect the battery pack to the ESC. Wait for about 2 seconds, the motor will beep for twice, then put the throttle in the minimum
position, the motor will also beep, which indicates that your ESC has got the signal range of the throttle from your transmitter.
The throttle is now calibrated and your ESC is ready for operation.
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 06:55 PM
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United States, FL, Orange City
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Ok, I think I REALLY messed up...twice!
1. I desoldered the 30 amp opto ztw esc from the fw450 frame. Then, taking the instructions above literally (I really do know better), I plugged the positive and negative leads of the esc directly into the respective leads of the 4s LiPo. I know...dumb!

2. Realizing my mistake, I soldered the esc back to the frame. Well....guess what?.... I soldered the pos lead to neg and neg to pos. I know....dumb!

Did I totally destroy everything or just the one ESC? When I put everything back together again (call me Humpy Dumpty), none of the motors will run.

Is there a way to test the ESCs to see if they are destroyed?
Given my original problem, should I just start over with new ESCs (and new frame! LOL)

Thanks for the help everyone.
Bill
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Old Oct 30, 2014, 07:52 PM
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I just realized that maybe I did not fry my ESCs. They are Opto so they will indeed get voltage from the battery bus.

I am thinking that I may have fried the fw450 board that everything is soldered to.

Does that sound logical?

Bill
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Old Oct 31, 2014, 09:16 AM
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In theory, opto escs have isolated PWM and motor circuits. However, this person at diydrones seems to have a different experience.
http://diydrones.com/m/discussion?id...opic%3A1515513
If the ESC isn't actually isolated, I would think the FC is fried, along with anything else connected to the battery ground
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Old Oct 31, 2014, 02:33 PM
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United States, FL, Orange City
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I've ordered a new F450 frame. Will be here tomorrow. I'll spend some time swapping the esc's and motors and see what happens.
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