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Old Jun 06, 2008, 07:17 PM
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Beevolution build instruction

All the Beevolution I ship so far are without build instrution.
I am now post the instrution step by step as following:
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 08:15 PM
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Fix it til it's broke
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Holy cow that looks easy. Is it really as easy as it looks? I just happened to be in the market for a good slope combat plane like this. I also noticed your other thread on making personalized stickers for it also. I will have to think of something cool so I can include it in my order sometime in the next month! What are these bees costing these days, and what gear is used (micro everything?)?
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 10:41 PM
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Send me your file, I would like to see more personalized design on Beevolution.
Two standard size Futaba #3001 size of servo.
The Beevolution specification:
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 03:24 AM
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My BeEvo doesn't have a hole in the root for a tube spar. No worries though, I know the ribbon spar is more than strong enough.
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 12:13 PM
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That's what I figure too Stu and, I had Ming send me 2 - 48" ribbon spars VS the 4 -24". I had not seen the tube spar or hole at that time. I'm not sure which will be better but, even just using a 8-12" tube spar in that hole would help fight the A ss crack and that's ALWAYS a good thing! I think it is a good DS mod to say the least in conjunction with the 48"ers just to double up the root sparing and toughness.
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 08:44 PM
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I'm worried - my trailing edge - straight when I got it - now warps a bit after joining the wing cores.

Should I add a sub-TE? Trying to stay light.
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 09:23 PM
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On all of my last wing builds I add the spars from shock flyers to the trailing edge of the panels. I used goop to glued the spar on and then cover with tape. The trailing edges are always straight.
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 10:07 AM
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I have not seen a warped TE yet but, if you do get one, just fix it with the a ss straps strapping tape by holding those TE's flat on the table while applying it with a CC card laid FLAT and using little pressure. Deforming the foam while applying stapping tape is the most common way to GET WARPED TE's as well. See pic.
Holding the CC card flat on the foam increases it's contact surface area to the foam, decreasing the point load on the foam so, it deforms less/ is more forgiving as a result.
Put simply, a flat CC card will not squash the foam while taping so you do not end up locking in squashed/bent TE sections.

So Steve, I guess in your case you WANT to deform the foam, to straight again. Let the table hold the TE straight while you lock it in with the CC card and tape. At this point it will not be DEAD straight but MUCH better! Use the covering shrink or the New stuff ironing on top of a FLAT table and your good to go. With the new stuff, I just hold it how I want it right after I get it all REAL HOT and then just hold it how it for 5 seconds as the NS adhesive cools and locks in the shape.
As I get REAL familiar with these moves I find I can change the wing whenever I want, even after it is built and flying, in small degrees. A little more washout no problemo. . .
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Old Jun 24, 2008, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Predator
I have not seen a warped TE yet but, if you do get one, just fix it with the a ss straps strapping tape by holding those TE's flat on the table while applying it with a CC card laid FLAT and using little pressure. Deforming the foam while applying stapping tape is the most common way to GET WARPED TE's as well. See pic.
Holding the CC card flat on the foam increases it's contact surface area to the foam, decreasing the point load on the foam so, it deforms less/ is more forgiving as a result.
Put simply, a flat CC card will not squash the foam while taping so you do not end up locking in squashed/bent TE sections.

So Steve, I guess in your case you WANT to deform the foam, to straight again. Let the table hold the TE straight while you lock it in with the CC card and tape. At this point it will not be DEAD straight but MUCH better! Use the covering shrink or the New stuff ironing on top of a FLAT table and your good to go. With the new stuff, I just hold it how I want it right after I get it all REAL HOT and then just hold it how it for 5 seconds as the NS adhesive cools and locks in the shape.
As I get REAL familiar with these moves I find I can change the wing whenever I want, even after it is built and flying, in small degrees. A little more washout no problemo. . .
What do you mean by "New Stuff"? is this just new Tape from a old roll or a NEW TYPE of tape? Also How are you getting it REAL HOT? Is this Before or after placing it on the EPP Foam?

Thanks
Malcom
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Old Jun 24, 2008, 03:50 PM
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To Quote the Predator

"You can get ALL the New stuff you want at www.laminatorwarehouse.com! I use the CP 10 mil, BCH most, rubbery tough and easiest to apply; and the DI stuff when I want real stiff 5-10mil and/or light, the Plastic plys in 3 weights 5, 7, 10, mil. Low luster 10 mil is SUPER BURRLY and is amazingly stiff heavy and expensive compared to the rest of them."
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Old Jun 24, 2008, 08:20 PM
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Thanks.

Never saw that comment from the predator though. Maybe it`s because i have not been here for over 10days. This new covering sounds interesting though. I am going to have to go visit the website


Regards
Mal
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Old Jul 13, 2008, 10:20 AM
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Hi Ming ,
Assembled the Beevolution as per your instructions . The only change being I went in for the Brushless Set up instead of the Brushed one.The set up is as below :
1) Motor : GWS Brushless Out runner 2212/13
2) ESC : GWS 25 A brushless ESC
3) battery : 11.1 V 3 S 2650 MAH Lipo
4) Prop : 6" x 3.25 "

I would like to Know if the Power set up is good enough for the Plane OR would it be insufficient.
Sai
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Old Aug 11, 2008, 03:37 PM
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joining rod?

Just bought this wing and am reading up on assembly here at the forum since no instruction where included.
I'm a bit confused as to what to do with the joining rod/spar described by Ming here: In my kit no rod was included; just the 4 x 24" carbon spars. No rod is depicted on the box (and neither on windriders homepage), but there is a slot molded into the foam (ca 6 mm in diameter, and about 6" into both halves).
I read here that some of you got 2 x 48" spars and do not worry about the wings rigidity without the connecting rod, but didn't see anybody write about the same configuration as mine...

I suppose some of you have some air-time with this wing, with and without the connector, and would very much like to har your suggestions as whether to worry about the missing rod...

Looking forward to fly my first ever wing

F
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Old Aug 11, 2008, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flamingooo
Just bought this wing and am reading up on assembly here at the forum since no instruction where included.
I'm a bit confused as to what to do with the joining rod/spar described by Ming here: In my kit no rod was included; just the 4 x 24" carbon spars. No rod is depicted on the box (and neither on windriders homepage), but there is a slot molded into the foam (ca 6 mm in diameter, and about 6" into both halves).
I read here that some of you got 2 x 48" spars and do not worry about the wings rigidity without the connecting rod, but didn't see anybody write about the same configuration as mine...

I suppose some of you have some air-time with this wing, with and without the connector, and would very much like to har your suggestions as whether to worry about the missing rod...

Looking forward to fly my first ever wing

F
I assume the spec changed, as mine didn't either. the spar hole wasn't even moulded in. I just added a couple of cuts for 12k carbon tow top and bottom for a bit extra strength. its holding up so far. Only thing I would do different is use a different glue to what Ming supplied in mine (took for ever to set).

Stu
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Old Aug 11, 2008, 05:30 PM
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we mentioned the difference a coupla posts up.
If you have 6-12 " of .024"/6mm carbon tube, go ahead and use it. If you want to do the split 48" ribbon mod you are going to have to search. My 121mph Bee had the 48" split ribbon and a short 6-7" tube just because I had it lying around. The spar broke about that far from the root so it may cause a stress riser.
stu (too)
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