Originally Posted by ajbaker

No. There is very little, if any, difference between the two types of motors. The big difference comes into play when comparing a pusher vs tractor configuration. Then, the pusher configuration is almost always louder.
AJ

Thanks for the info ajbaker.I think I will have to build my own for charging 300mAh lipos.I only thought ,it would be cheaper to buy them from HK. Thanks again,Gerhard 807gt in Melbourne.

Originally Posted by 807gt

Thanks for the info ajbaker.I think I will have to build my own for charging 300mAh lipos.I only thought ,it would be cheaper to buy them from HK. Thanks again,Gerhard 807gt in Melbourne.

I am assuming that you have more than enough to build you own chargers. However, even for the cheapest one (that I know of), the components would cost more than buying one. Here is the one I built a few years ago cost me about $28 (not counting the redesign). You can buy a real simple one from HK for your lipos (just hook the Lipos up in parallel-or make a current limiting circuit from spare parts). Heck, it would cost you that much in gas just to go get any parts (I think).
I am anxious for you to build your own because of all that you might learn. Let me know your plan. TIA
AJ
P.S. I am sure that you already know that the TL431 shunt regulator is adjustable to whatever your needs are.

Clevis and Control rods.

I am getting (probably) a Bixelr-1 kit sometime this week. I want to get spare clevis and control rods for the aileron ( I am likely to screw up the ones that come with it like I did last time) and shipping weight will not cost me.

I know that I asked this before, but no one had the info handy then. If I understand, the stock control rods are too thin for standard clevis thread. I would get new rods and clevis if I knew which ones to get.

Can anyone point me at rods & clevis that will work?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Shimmy

Clevis and Control rods.
<snip>
I know that I asked this before, but no one had the info handy then. If I understand, the stock control rods are too thin for standard clevis thread. I would get new rods and clevis if I knew which ones to get.
Can anyone point me at rods & clevis that will work?
Thanks

I apologize for missing your last post. This thread moves so fast that once in a while, a question falls through the cracks. You did the right thing, though. If you feel your question was missed - ask again. You are NOT being ignored! Again, sorry.
Ok. Having said that, here is one possible solution to your question.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD884&P=7
You will have to solder (or otherwise connect) two of the pushrods to make one that is the ~22" length that you need. Good luck.
AJ
P.S. That is a very commonly used push rod assembly. You should be able to find them at your LHS.

Originally Posted by ajbaker

I apologize for missing your last post. This thread moves so fast that once in a while, a question falls through the cracks. You did the right thing, though. If you feel your question was missed - ask again. You are NOT being ignored! Again, sorry.
Ok. Having said that, here is one possible solution to your question.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD884&P=7
You will have to solder (or otherwise connect) two of the pushrods to make one that is the ~22" length that you need. Good luck.
AJ
P.S. That is a very commonly used push rod assembly. You should be able to find them at your LHS.

AJ, no apologies needed. This thread is great and very supportive. I really do appreciate it.

I must apologize to you, because I must not have made myself clear. I want to get spare clevis for the Ailron's. Those are about 4-5" if I am correct. Also, Hobby King is preferred. I will be ordering my new Bixler kit from them and a few more ounces of parts won't cost me more shipping.

On my first (sob) SkySurfer I screwed up a aileron servo. When I opened the clevis so that I could remove the servo, the little nob on the pin popped off. So I want to have spare clevis (and rods if need be) so that I am not grounded due to a little part. (I already bought spare linkage stoppers)

While I have your ear, can you suggest control horns as well. I purchased these but I don't know if they are the best choice.

Thanks for all your help.

Aj, just had a chance to finally try 6x4 prop on microdan plenty of horses there LOL
Thx :-)

Originally Posted by Shimmy

Clevis and Control rods.

I am getting (probably) a Bixelr-1 kit sometime this week. I want to get spare clevis and control rods for the aileron ( I am likely to screw up the ones that come with it like I did last time) and shipping weight will not cost me.

I know that I asked this before, but no one had the info handy then. If I understand, the stock control rods are too thin for standard clevis thread. I would get new rods and clevis if I knew which ones to get.

Can anyone point me at rods & clevis that will work?

Thanks

As I posted before, my stock clevis was broken in the first crush (or the clevis was the reason of crush). As part of repair job I replased default parts with these:

Clevises
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8421

Push Rods
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9887

Linkage Stopper
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8414


During build I also used:

Hinges
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8282

Control Horns
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8419

I hope it helps.

I'm not an expert in aerodynamics but I think you right on first statement and wrong or partially right on second.

Many years flying in flight simulators I went thru painting, scenery and aircraft modelling, tuning of aerodynamics and writing gauges. I got some knowledge from that hobby.

COL (center of lift) is fixed for particular airfoil and you cannot change it's location without replacing the wings. But you can change location of center of gravity by moving of weight distribution in aircraft. This is why in real aviation they calculate the map of passenger and baggage distribution between cabin and cargo sections and in R/C aviation we moving batteries or adding a ballast.

So, the second statement could be as right as wrong. This is why in docs or forums for Bixler or SkySurfer CoG published as 61mm. Just to be sure that this aircraft will remain as glider.

The COL is still behind the COG, if the plane was so tail heavy that the COG was behind the COL then you would be so tail heavy that the plane would not fly. I know that you can move the COG but again every aerofoil has a specific COG point that will have the plane flying best.
P.S I am currently taking my full sized pilots license and this is one of the first things I was briefed on.

Originally Posted by Scorpio9999

As I posted before, my stock clevis was broken in the first crush (or the clevis was the reason of crush). As part of repair job I replased default parts with these:

Clevises
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8421

Push Rods
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9887

Linkage Stopper
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8414


During build I also used:

Hinges
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8282

Control Horns
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8419

I hope it helps.

Yes it helps tremendously!
In searching again now I found a replacement set for the Bixler-2. I guess that short rods would fit the Bixler-1 as well. The long rods for the tail control surfaces are probably too long.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=25538

I modified mine and build a Gopro mount in the nose cone with great results for FPV flying.

Chasing FPV shadows (11 min 50 sec)

Hey folks,

I recently purchased a Bixler as a platform for my 2nd FPV plane. I've had a few FPV flights with my Axn Clouds (which have been amazing), but I can't figure out a way to fit in my Cyclops Nova OSD. The Bixler has a lot more room inside, so it shouldn't be an issue.

Anyway, my current plan is to build the Bixler and fly it first w/o FPV equipment to get used to the flight characteristics in case they are different from the Axn. Next, I plan to add the FPV equipment (no GoPro, so it shouldn't be *too* heavy). In practice, is this a good way to go since gluing the halves together will make it more difficult to add the equipment later? Any advice here would be appreciated!

Originally Posted by Scorpio9999

As part of repair job I replased default parts with these:



Hinges
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8282


I hope it helps.

Scorpio9999 how did you attach the hinges? im told gettign them to stick to epp is a nightmare

thanks

Originally Posted by Zangetsu57

Hey folks,

I recently purchased a Bixler as a platform for my 2nd FPV plane. I've had a few FPV flights with my Axn Clouds (which have been amazing), but I can't figure out a way to fit in my Cyclops Nova OSD. The Bixler has a lot more room inside, so it shouldn't be an issue.

Anyway, my current plan is to build the Bixler and fly it first w/o FPV equipment to get used to the flight characteristics in case they are different from the Axn. Next, I plan to add the FPV equipment (no GoPro, so it shouldn't be *too* heavy). In practice, is this a good way to go since gluing the halves together will make it more difficult to add the equipment later? Any advice here would be appreciated!

i used double sided tape to stick my two halves together an they have been an absolute nightmare to separate

if your only chucking a lipo an rx an esc in for now, tape would hold her together

Originally Posted by mudcow007

Scorpio9999 how did you attach the hinges? im told gettign them to stick to epp is a nightmare

thanks

Well since the bixler/SS isn't EPP, its not a problem it is EPO, and it just depends what kinda glue you use. The guy that gave me mine had used epoxy, and I could peel that off with no problem. You might be better off going with some sort of CA(I haven't tried it yet) or, hot glue seems to work well.

Originally Posted by nightfox7

Well since the bixler/SS isn't EPP, its not a problem it is EPO, and it just depends what kinda glue you use. The guy that gave me mine had used epoxy, and I could peel that off with no problem. You might be better off going with some sort of CA(I haven't tried it yet) or, hot glue seems to work well.

Doh!

cheers nightfox, i will experiment when my hinges arrive

i tore through my elevator foamy hinge on the weekend so i cant fly until i fit hinges