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Old Oct 28, 2014, 12:21 AM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
Discussion
RCTIMER tritrooper Y6 900 build

wanted to share the latest build..lots of pictures

i got all this stuff from kendall at uav objects... thanks kendall for the great help and sharing your advice and knowledge.
setup is
rcrtimer trooper Y6 900 integrated pcb version
rctimer apm 2.5
cno6 plus gps/compass
uav objects av dome
rctimer 40amp hv escs
rctimer bc5010-14 360kv motors..the new ones with 5mm shaft
rctimer carbon 17x5.5 propellers
rctimer annunciator
rctimer low noise 5A 6V switching UBEC
rctimer 915mhz radio telemetry air module
rctimer voltage and current sensor
6 quick release propeller mounts.....all CW rotation
custom made antivibration motor mounts
18 --- 3mm antivibration bobbins
futaba 2.8g reciever

photobucket has gone down...be back shortly with pics
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Old Oct 28, 2014, 01:03 AM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
started by putting together the landing gear... pretty straight forward... the lower legs attach to the struts with this... x 2






then the sockets that hold the struts bolted to the lower frame board


then attached the landing gear with the screw on clamps and tightened them just enough to keep them from falling out


once it was standing on its own i added the upper frame supports, 3 of them... the bolts are really long so i used a drill with a 3mm driver on it, but you need tp go slow, the friction and heat created are really high and youll melt the holes in the supports.. i took the landing gear out for this part






then added the bobbins to the lower battery plate, im not sure how much il trust these when carrying alot of batteries...so im adding some kind of fixing to hold the battery traty incase the bobbines fail or ill upgrade the bobbins to a harder rubber, any gimbal i use will be softmounted anyway




then added the upper frame support, which will need to beremoved for electronics installation




next was to slide in the boom supports in all three arms... they just slide in and then arte held in by the long bolts and thumb nuts




and slide them in between the frames and bolt them in place temp..i couldnt resist plugging in a battery, the leds light up flash when the battery is low... it has a plug for the balance wire on batterys...
there is also an on board beeper for low battery whivh is loud..and an onboard voltage display... 2---12v outputs... dual battery in solder pads..and something else i missed im sure..


heres a look of the inside of the pcb


after the easy part it was time for the hard work.. i need to make some mounts becuse the low profile of the motor causes the props to hit the motor housings... so i ded=cided why not make it a bit better and make the soft mount
i started by measuring the inner diameter of the housing and then setuop my mill with the circle cutter and cut out seven round plates from 1/8th aluminum plate// they fit snugly in the motor holes, so i used that to put the plates in the holes and traced the motor mount outlines onto the aluminum plates




then a dry fit


even though i traced gthe lines, i still measured everything to make sure it was all on center and would fit properly, its too much work for it not to fit in the end and used the mill to cut out the motor mount slots... i had to make the slots closer in to the center hole because of the offset mounting pattern of the motors... the center hole has to be machined out as well to use as a relief for the motor shhaft and the clip spinning arounf in there..


then to cut the motor slots, i had to modify the mill vise to hold the plates, i just drilled four carefully measured holes to both sides of center on both jaws , then tapped them for 4mm hex allen head bolts.. the plates then sit on the jaws and the when i close them, the heads on the four bolts trap the plates in the center, then with the center lines on the plates i was able to line thenm up witrh the center line that i milled on the top of the vise jaws..



and a test fit reveals a nice fit and line up..


next i decided wher i would mount the 3 rubber bobbins... which was easy because i traced the base of the motor housings onto the plates.. i drilled slightly oversized 3mm holes in the plates at the marked locations then since the plates fit snugly i was ably to use those holes to drill through and into and thru the plastic bases as seen here


the mounted the male sides of the bobbins to the plates and used 3mm nylon lock nuts to secure them


the fit the motors to the mounts using 4 3mm button head stainless bolts




then it was time to mount the motors and mounts to the mototr housings using the same hardware as above, i used 3mm large outer diamter washers to bolt the motor nounts to the plastic motor housings...fearing it might crack..




the escs are in the booms, they hace a band of heatshrink around them to keep them from rattling... the wires are cut to length and fed thru the motor housings...soldered to the motors then the motor mounts are bolted down..
the escs fit in line with eachother so the signal and power wires are cut to different lengths..the power wires are not cut until i install the booms on the frame
the power wires are twisted together..




then they are slid down the tubes , i used the power wires to pull on them a bit to get theh in there...my son had to help, its impossible with one arm..i used a zip tie to tie the signal wire to its corresponding set of power wires..
also i added a red piece of heatshrink the signal connector that went to the top motors to avoid wasting time later..then reinstalled


once they were in there, i was able to figure out where to cut them, i think this was designed with using bullet connectors.. but since i wasnt using the, i had to kinda bring the wires in from the back direction to get them on the pads cleanly. once i check for lemgth after moving the fron boom s to the folded positions and made sure they wouldnt be pulled on ..i cut them and my son held them with hemostats while i solderd the power wires in place..


the board is marked for all motors, has 12v outputs and 5v ouputs..


after i had all the soldering work done, i bolted in the upper frame and started working on the av dome install, with the apm and cno6 on it






next was time to install the reciever, ubec, annunciator etc and wiring
i added the reciever with just velcro to hold, 3m industrial, its super strong stuff...
the ubec is mounted just under the av dome on the uppe frame, you run out of room fast on this one... it plugs direcly into one of the two 12v outputs on the lower pcb board.. .......... very nice


the annunciator must be wired up and soldered... it has its own regulator, its super bright... blinding in low light conditions, in the day its awesome... i plugged it into the second 12v volt output in the pcb ... very nice again.. you need to plug the wires into the correct ports on the apm and set led mode 11 in the full parameters list ..i color matched the wires to the leds and the wires are marked with roman numerals and correspond the Ainputs on the board


to the right is the ubecrunning to the A1 port and on the A0 port is the capacitor



to mount the buzser and the capacitor, i just used a dab of shoe goo, great stuff hold awesome but it will come off if you want it to


iin order to get the beeper for arming and disarming as well as the leds, i Y'd it off of the A5 header .. i neglected to check if it the combines total of the two was going to be under the 40ma limit, but all went well in the end..you can see the Y in the above picture..

next i plugged in the cables for the gps and compass, twisting the cables together
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Old Oct 28, 2014, 02:10 AM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
heres the power module soldered directly to the battery inputs


then used double femaled ended ribbon cable to make the connections to the reciever and motor inputs
the reciever end is marked as reciever on the cable
the apm input is marked with a dash on the cable representing input
the motor outputs are marked a dot representing an O for ouput then are matched up with the M inputs on the lower pcb board
the dashes represent the corresponding slot 1 is 1....11 is 2 ...111 is 3.....and so on...




this bolt on the battery support, i took out, its right in the middle, until you add a gimbal, youll have to remove it to get the battery on the CG, once the extra weight is upfront then the battery will have to go bacward and the extra bobbin can be reinstalled

then i had to do the apm setup, etc etc, you guys know about all that..so ill spare you..after all that,
but will add that i chose the Y6b option after the firmware upload, the prop directions were changed for this option, all uppers are CW and all lowers are CCW

the motors had very little vibration to speak of, but just a little, only one i had to add a little tape to get it smooth...but the rubber mounts work awesome...there is zero vibration even at the motor housings at full throttle with no props..
this test flight was without any tuning, the motors have no heat or warmth to speak of after 8 minutes of flight...its got got great lift punch but i can tell that it can swing more prop easily..

THUMBS UP

the onboard volt display made it super easy to setup the power module in missionplanner

the extra voltage outputs made it super easy to hook up the annunciator and the ubec

the 5v ouputs can be used for leds or something like that

it seems to be pretty light for something of its size.

loottsssssss of room for bigger props if i decide to test those

it was super easy to setup motor directions, you just wire them all for CW... the underside motors are mechanically reversed for CCW rotation...i screwed up and bought 3 CW and 3 CCW quick release prop hubs

super easy assembly..took no time at all..

it has all kinds of extra outputs to power things to your hearts desire... only the major ones are pinned, the others you see in the pictures you have to solder pins into

the onboard leds look cool...and the the low battery beeper and led flash function are a great add on, you just need to have jst balance leads or solder up some conversion for your packs..

this is my first time using the avdome and im impressed to say the least... the usb extension is awesomre,...anyone who has ever ripped the usb socket out of the apm knows what im talking about.lol

i thought the speedcontrols would have heating problems being incased in the booms but they get warm at best..

my only thing,,,and im nitpicking here is that i ran out of room on the frame really fast but not much can be done about that,

i looking forward to further tuning...some missions and then adding a camera... i have not tested for max flight time...it is running on 6s currently but i plan to test with 4s too... and see what yields best results but it was setup and built for 6s...

i wasnt planning on hitting the loiter switch so i only waited 40 seconds before takeoff.. but ended up hitting the switch anyway and was pleasantly surprised .. i still need to add the cover but it will have to cut to go over the avdome..

i had only one mishap, once i got ready to fly, i always hold it over my head to check the controls are working in the right directions and it wasnt, i had three lower motors hooked up incorrectly, i rechecked the apm outputs and tested with a servo driver and found i had mislabled the pcb board..once i matched them up properly, the controls reacted accordingly

sorry for the typos, i go fast but with one hand i tend to hit thewrong keys here and there

as i said, thanks kendall for all your help couldnt have done it without you man

rctimer tri trooper 900 first flight (3 min 6 sec)
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Old Oct 28, 2014, 05:53 AM
Registered User
Aaalie's Avatar
Netherlands
Joined May 2006
595 Posts
Nice build! The machine runs nice with the 360Kv 5010 motors. Very efficient with the 17" props.
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Old Oct 28, 2014, 04:31 PM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
thank you sir, i had fun building it...it just didnt take long enough....i enjoy the building part alot.

today, i went through 6 packs...

# 1. was jut sitting... checking the vibe logs..checking voltages were correct, making sure all ts were crossed and such
#2 was in the air just hovering getting a good feel for it
#3 was really getting aggresive with the sticks and throttle listening for weird noises and looking for bad yaws and twitches
#4 was auto tune and save trim, it flies great with the auto tune settings, but its a bit too aggresive for my taste, i like a bit slower and smoother transitions and stick inputs, so i detuned it till it was where i liked it...
#5 was lifting off in loiter and testing position hold and alt hold..simple mode..full throttle punch outs looking for overheating escs and motors and a few RTLs.. the cn06 hold position way better than the setup on my hexa, i think ill change it over as well..
#6 was just flying around getting used to it, letting the confidence in the setup set in...
once i trust it throroughly i will do a few missions...if all goes well and there are no mishaps then its time for a gimbal,camera, and some fpv stuff

i have dtuned this a bit for a smoother flight for me..but this is the auto tune


now i need to get back to work on the sick hexa, i rewound the motors.. but i have one thats getting warmer than the others... i rewould it twice...there are no shorts so its not the wind, im sick of tearing it apart, i think i may just buy new motors , i want to trust the hexa enough to put a camera on it too.. then build a a quad...
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Last edited by 1hander; Oct 29, 2014 at 10:32 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2014, 06:41 PM
Quiet Achiever
Joined Feb 2008
1,596 Posts
Good Stuff Rick

For those who do not know Rick, He is absolutely amazing. A decorated Combat Veteran who lost the use of his left arm due to being wounded in the Sand Box.... While many struggle with two hands, Rick, flys with one hand...hence his nick here as 1 hander. Great guy, good friend and it's an honor to know him.

One other note...He's also one awesome RC Heli pilot
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 10:29 AM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
thanx kendall,
this thing is alot smother than my hex thats for sure... cant wait to put a camera on it...

sorry about the camera angle guys.. i had to tape my phone to the laptop and didnt quite get it high enough


this was after the auto tune.. and after i detuned just a bit..
rctimer tri trooper flight after auto tune (7 min 40 sec)
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 03:44 PM
AP PixHero
ProjectTalos's Avatar
United States, CA, Malibu
Joined Aug 2013
68 Posts
Thx for the build thread Rick. About to build a couple of these fancy beasts. Wanted to build the 750's though 900 is pretty big!


If only Rybat stocked the Y6-650 or 750...

I built the Trooper Q700 and the build quality on the frame was just as good as my buddies SkyHero Spyder.
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Last edited by ProjectTalos; Oct 29, 2014 at 03:49 PM. Reason: add commentary!
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 04:31 PM
Rick
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Jan 2011
328 Posts
it was my pleasure

i gotta tell you .. i really like how stable and smooth this thing i... the quality and finish of the parts was great... i even had a whole bunch of extra hardware left over lol... the power outlets are a real convenience

i think iwant to build a bigger one.. the only thing ive found is that the gimbal that you would hang under this thing is kinda large ... i think ill have to extend the landing struts and the skids made wider....

while im at it , i think ill extend the tarot 680 to about 700 to squeak in 14inch props... i bought way too much motor for it in the beginning..
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Old Nov 16, 2014, 03:26 PM
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Aaalie's Avatar
Netherlands
Joined May 2006
595 Posts
Hey Rick,

the rattle you hear is a sync issue with these motor/esc combination. I have had a hard time finding a fast ESC which runs reliable (the SK40HV do run reliable) but also which do not have these singing/rattling sync sounds.
Can you tell me something about the flight times with this frame? I am also leaning towards this frame/motor combination, also 4S and 17" props.
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