New Products Flash Sale
Thread Tools
Old Apr 29, 2014, 11:24 PM
DrFragnasty is offline
Find More Posts by DrFragnasty
Thermal Wrangler
DrFragnasty's Avatar
Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,238 Posts
This YouTube video proved useful for when I made my Vac Forming "machine":

XRobots - How to build a vacuum forming machine including my easy heating solution (9 min 5 sec)
DrFragnasty is offline Find More Posts by DrFragnasty
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Apr 30, 2014, 07:41 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Using a reject canopy to check fit. It is a reject because of webbing on the right front corner.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 30, 2014, 10:41 PM
HahnSolo is offline
Find More Posts by HahnSolo
Great, kid! Don't get Cocky!
HahnSolo's Avatar
Joined Sep 2006
561 Posts
Hi Scott:

Looks like you went down the same path as me. After I stripped, re-sanded, and re-glassed my foam plug, there was no way I was going to try another vacuum pull on it.

For those who are watching this build log, here is the process I used for casting my repaired canopy plug with Ultracal 30:
HahnSolo is offline Find More Posts by HahnSolo
Last edited by HahnSolo; Apr 30, 2014 at 10:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 09, 2014, 01:53 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
I have received some more photos of CGU from the owner. These are specifically the cockpit interior.

The first 2 photos from my files show a "standard" Oly 2b cockpit.
The next 4 are of the CGU cockpit. This is a very clean old sailplane.

I asked the owner why the interior was sheeted; here is his answer:
"The fill-in you have seen in photos is because the cockpit area was repaired some time ago with a plywood skin on the inside of the original formers. So the finish is not quite standard, but this does protect the interior from "Big Feet" damage."

As this is supposedly a sport scale model, in spite of some of my over-enthusiasm, and because I have already done most of the cockpit work, I have decided not to sheet the inside. I will, however, add the handhold at the front, the trim lever on the right, the airbrake lever on the left, and the aerotow release. The approximate paint colors (gray and green) will also be used. I will call this slightly controlled over-enthusiasm!
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 09, 2014, 04:46 PM
quickee is online now
Find More Posts by quickee
quickee
quickee's Avatar
United States, UT, Sandy
Joined Jul 2005
673 Posts
Great Job -Love the detail
KEEP IT UP SOAR UTAH will be here soon
-Ron-
quickee is online now Find More Posts by quickee
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 26, 2014, 04:23 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Covering

Got involved in another non-modeling woodworking project, but here I am again!

The flying surfaces are being covered with Sig Koverall. Sig Stix-It, a heat activated adhesive, is used around the outside edges and on the undercambered ribs to adhere the Koverall. While shrinking the fabric on the first wing half I discovered an error around the airbrake servo box—there is no place to attach the covering inboard of the ply servo cover. I will fix that on this wing after a couple of coats of dope. On the uncovered wing, I will put in some balsa for covering attachment.

Will be back when all surfaces are covered and have 2 coats of nitrate dope on them. I am still planning on having this flying for Soar Utah 2014 over Labor Day weekend.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Last edited by shinck; Jul 04, 2014 at 11:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27, 2014, 11:05 AM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
On the uncovered left wing, my fix for the lack of a place to attach the fabric covering next to the airbrake servo hatch.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Last edited by shinck; Jul 05, 2014 at 12:00 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 07, 2014, 06:32 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Fin fairing

While getting the tail surfaces ready for covering, I decided to fit the fin fairing.

Shane, one of the designers from Australia, had made a mold for the fairing and kindly sent me one in lightweight glass, with the approximate trim lines drawn in pencil. This is why I was able to put the control rod on the top of the elevator.

Cliff Charlesworth uses solid balsa to make the fairing, with a separation line at the front of the fin. This would work fine for a bottom-actuated elevator.

I have included some full-size Oly photos to show the attachment of the glass fairing.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 22, 2014, 12:49 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Finishing the fuselage

It has been a while, but I haven't been totally dormant. I am not an expert at finishing and it is not one of my favorite things to do. I have painted the rudder, stab, elevator, trim tab, and wings. From 10 feet away they look OK.

I have had a problem with the fin, which relates to using 1/32" balsa for sheeting. If I were doing it again, I would use 1/64" ply. As it is I will need to do some careful filling and sanding to fix the fin low spots between the ribs.

I made a simple jig for working on the fuselage while filling, glassing and prepping for the final finish.

Unfortunately, the model won't be ready for Soar Utah 2014.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 22, 2014, 04:30 PM
quickee is online now
Find More Posts by quickee
quickee
quickee's Avatar
United States, UT, Sandy
Joined Jul 2005
673 Posts
Sorry your model not to be done for Soar Utah,you have spent so much time on it with the pictures and comments with the build.
Looks fantanstic
-Ron-
quickee is online now Find More Posts by quickee
Last edited by quickee; Aug 22, 2014 at 04:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 24, 2015, 08:09 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Rambling…

Since my last post 7 months ago, I have been doing some household maintenance and personal woodworking—4 reproduction folding sewing tables, a veneered coffee table, and a reproduction Shaker drop-leaf table; all from cherry. I still have to refinish all the kitchen and bath maple doors and drawer fronts (bad finish from the builders).

But it’s time to get back to scale sailplanes (and electrics).

Before getting too far on finishing the fuselage exterior, I need to assemble everything and get some idea of the current balance point. I have a nagging feeling that I overdid it on the lead-in-the-nose during the fuselage construction. If so I will need to drill out some lead before permanently installing the nose block and proceeding with the finish.

Pictures soon.

Each scheduled aerotow this spring has had threats of poor weather. In Utah, as in other western states, the winter has not been kind to us, with little snow & rain. Any storm is welcome, it’s just that the timing is unfortunate.

Well, less moaning and more work! I sort of promised Don Bailey that I would bring the Oly to his Monroe aerotow at the end of July.

Scott
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 08:54 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Some things I have done that have not been mentioned:

Wings, ailerons, rudder, stab, elevator and trim tab have all been painted using spray can auto enamel. I’m not happy with it, but it is what it is—from 10 feet it looks OK. I am good on construction, but finishing is not my talent. Next time I try Solartex.

The fin fairing has been fit. There will be one small screw from each side at the back and one screw in front of the stab LE.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Last edited by shinck; Yesterday at 09:04 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 09:00 PM
shinck is online now
Find More Posts by shinck
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
639 Posts
Good and Bad

I managed to get all the pieces put together in my shop and see how it balanced. If you go waaayy back in this thread, you will see that I put 22-23 ounces of lead way up in the nose while constructing the fuselage.

The good thing is that I won’t have to drill any lead out of the nose.

The bad is that I need even more lead way up front to balance, and the fuselage is still bare balsa. At this point another 5.7 ounces of lead slugs are required to balance. When balanced the top aft of the fuselage is level. After everything is finished the final weight will be put on the front of the pull-out battery tray.

I was aiming for a flying weight of 10 pounds are less but am now looking at around 11 pounds, giving a wing loading of 17-18 oz/sq.ft., which is still OK.
shinck is online now Find More Posts by shinck
Last edited by shinck; Yesterday at 09:09 PM.
Reply With Quote


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Olympia 2b 1/4 Scale Build Log ShaneW Scale Sailplanes 7 Oct 14, 2010 02:03 AM
Discussion Flightpower Eon vs Eon-X Seahawk82 Batteries and Chargers 89 Jan 14, 2010 06:34 PM
Discussion Kranich 2B Plans scervetto Scale Sailplanes 1 Aug 04, 2008 12:16 PM
Wanted Wanted:Cliff Charlesworth Olympia 2B (DFS Meise) WarBirdCrazee Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 1 Feb 07, 2008 03:06 PM
Eon Olympia? Tominator Scale Sailplanes 2 Dec 20, 2004 02:34 PM