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Apr 12, 2013, 08:40 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 06:04 PM.
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Apr 12, 2013, 10:53 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 05:42 PM.
Apr 13, 2013, 07:43 AM
Fan of just about anything RC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
No, When its turn off, When I move it with my hands, Understand?

Where's the mesh located?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Check the battery form again listed above ^^

Can you check a battery with a 9 volt checker?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
A LHS is 20 miles away, Instead of their motor spray, Is there something else that I could use at my nearest local hardware center?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
More information to continued

We really want to help you, but do you really need 5 postings in a row to formulate the problem? There is an edit function, if you want to add things to a posting, or alter it, please use it for situations like these. Posting this way will most likely put people, that otherwise might be willing to give their advice here, off. And surely that can't be your intention.

Mesh is the way 2 gears "hook up" into each other. If mesh is too tight, the gears' teeth are too close to each other, and this will make these wear faster and put more strain on the motor. Mesh too loose means the gears' teeth have too little contact area, and this will also make them run less smooth, and there is an increased risk of stripping teeth.

You can't check a car battery with a simple 9 volt checker, get a volt/amp meter instead. These can be had pretty cheap, and while perhaps not being 100% accurate, they will do well enough for most use. If you suspect your batteries are not okay, a decent charger will also help, as these will charge batteries better, and also measure voltage and indicate this on display.
Apr 13, 2013, 08:23 AM
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wparsons's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
No, When its turn off, When I move it with my hands, Understand?

Where's the mesh located?
Not really... side to side or front to back? Your descriptions are very vague.

The gear mesh is how much space there is between the pinion and spur gear. Do you have the manual for the car, it should be covered in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
No idea, that doesn't show the back of the wheel or list what kind hex/pin it needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Check the battery form again listed above ^^

Can you check a battery with a 9 volt checker?
What kind of battery do you have in the car? The best way to test it is to fully charge it and run it again.

Where did you get the car from? Is there anyone local to you that has some experience? From the sound of it, this is your first RC car and you would benefit from some fundamental info about RC cars.
Apr 13, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 05:50 PM.
Apr 13, 2013, 01:03 PM
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Apr 13, 2013, 01:07 PM
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Apr 13, 2013, 01:09 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 05:52 PM.
Apr 13, 2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Instead of hobby motor spray, Is there something else that I could use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
I recently purchased a battery with a Standard plug accidentally without the Deans, I soldered it on, While doing this the soldered accidentally dripped & touched the positive/negative, Then sparked, Can this drain the juice in the battery, Because I only got about 20 or less chargers out of it after this had happened
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
How much mph does a 2000mah/3000mah pack increase, 2mph extra?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Still unanswered, No rush
I'm not going to explain the mAh thing again. Next time you get impatient, remember this forum is not someone's personal servant, no member can expect to just snap his fingers and all members come running to his aid.

You can read the answer about the relation between mAh and speed a few messages back. Motors don't require spray, just a few drops of oil on the bearings will usually be sufficient for maintenance.

Shorting a battery, especially a lipo, can indeed reduce it's performance and life expectancy. When soldering on a battery, always be careful to isolate the wires.
Apr 13, 2013, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
I recently purchased a battery with a Standard plug accidentally without the Deans, I soldered it on, While doing this the soldered accidentally dripped & touched the positive/negative, Then sparked, Can this drain the juice in the battery, Because I only got about 20 or less chargers out of it after this had happened
What does the bolded part even mean? 20 or less chargers, that doesn't make any sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
How much mph does a 2000mah/3000mah pack increase, 2mph extra?
Probably no noticeable difference if it's the same type of battery (nicad, nimh, lipo). What type of battery do you have? Brand, capacity, number of cells, type (nicad, nimh, lipo)?
Apr 13, 2013, 06:25 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 05:57 PM.
Apr 14, 2013, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
If I get about 15 mins with a 6 cell NIMH 7.2 2000, How much more mins with a 3000?

Above ^^ Does make sense, According to you it doesn't, If the 2 wires touched accidentally can it lose it's lifespan or shorting out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan
Higher mAh alone will not increase speed directly, but usually a higher mAh battery can hold voltage better under load, the voltage collapses less. Due to the higher sustained voltage, the motor will run faster. This voltage under load varies for different batteries, making if perfectly possible to have a 5400 mAh being just as fast as a 1600 mAh one. The latter will have much shorter run times, as mAh is a measure of capacity, how much "electric fuel" you got in the "tank"

I hghlighted the part from one of my previous answers, hoping you will grasp the meaning of that sentence better. mAh means how long a battery can deliver current, hence calling it a measure for the amount of "electric fuel in the tank" of the battery. Since most people understand electricy better when comparing to a combustion engine. To be more precise a battery with 1000 mAh capacity will be able to deliver a current of 1000 ma during one hour, hence the "h" in mAh. Or run a current of 500 mA during 2 hours, as long as the runtime in hours multiplied with the current in mA equals the amount of mAh that was specified for the battery.

You can also reverse the calculation, so say you can run an hour on a 2000 mAh battery, dividing 2000mAh by that 15 minutes, which equals 0.25h, yields a current of 8000 mA. (This is the average current that runs when you are driving, it will be higher as you accelerate, and lower when the car runs on a straight) Then you divide 3000 mAh (the capacity you want to compare the 2000 mAh against) through that 8000 mA, which yields 0.375 h(our) or in minutes, 22 1/2 minute.

This is the long route to calculate this, which I explained in the hope you will understand the "mechanics" behind mAh and mA better. The simple route would be to divide 3000 mAh through 2000 mAh, which yields 1.5 as factor. Take the 15 minutes you get on 2000 mAh, multiply it with that 1.5 and you also get 22 1/2 minutes on a 3000 mAh battery.

All in theory, as there are always losses, and the 3000 mAh battery will be heavier than the 2000 mAh, so the motor will have to work a little harder, so the average current will become higher than the 8000 mA we calcutated. So use calculations like these as a rule of thumb.
Apr 14, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
If I get about 15 mins with a 6 cell NIMH 7.2 2000, How much more mins with a 3000?
All other things the same, you would get about 22 minutes out of it. There's no magic, just math based on current run time and how much more capacity the bigger pack has. 3000mah is about 50% more capacity than 2000mah, so you'll get an extra 50% more run time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXBug85
Above ^^ Does make sense, According to you it doesn't, If the 2 wires touched accidentally can it lose it's lifespan or shorting out?
If the time it touched was very short, the pack is fine. If it was damaged it would be really obvious.

Re-read what I said above... I wasn't questioning the shorting out, I was questioning what you meant by this:

Quote:
Because I only got about 20 or less chargers out of it after this had happened
Are you saying you got about 20 or less minutes of runtime after it happened? Or are you saying you only got 20 charge/discharge cycles from the pack after that happened before the pack was totally dead and wouldn't take a charge?
Apr 14, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Last edited by XXBug85; Jan 24, 2015 at 06:03 PM.


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