Originally Posted by dsobbe

Your description is true when the motor is running and a mechanical fault causes abnormal movement. In that case the gyro will hunt, seeking to counter that input.
In my case the motor is off. There is no movement, yet the gyro seems to attempt to counter a slow yaw to the left. The servo rotation stops as soon as the motor reaches about 1/3 throttle. My guess is that the power to the gyro is too low to provide accurate sensing when the motor is off. Or, a random electronic anomaly occurs at binding. That seems more likely as the servo rotation often ceases if I restart the radio. At any rate, it's just an observation and not a problem.
And, I'm sure that the captain of the Titanic felt the same way about iceburg sightings.

Hmm.. never had that occur without a problem lurking. Could have been unrelated, I suppose. Glad yours is not an issue! Watch out for flying iceburgs!

Regards the tail servo movement guys. If you want to experiment a bit just go into the stick section of your 2801pro and set the v200 model to 2801mode, then move into GYROPAT and set your gyro SENS to 25 and see if the the tail servo recentres when you return to 2401mode. I put my Walkera RX into "rate" mode when setting up my CP heli's this way. Then I return them to HH mode with a SENS setting of about 75 on completion. Also if your servo is still buzzing when its moved to the end of its travel I would reduce the rudder EXT a little with the RX POT or risk burning out your servo.

regards

Mick

@Mark - thanks for the fuse info

Originally Posted by Bravo47

Regards the tail servo movement guys. If you want to experiment a bit just go into the stick section of your 2801pro and set the v200 model to 2801mode, then move into GYROPAT and set your gyro SENS to 25 and see if the the tail servo recentres when you return to 2401mode. I put my Walkera RX into "rate" mode when setting up my CP heli's this way. Then I return them to HH mode with a SENS setting of about 75 on completion. Also if your servo is still buzzing when its moved to the end of its travel I would reduce the rudder EXT a little with the RX POT or risk burning out your servo.

regards

Mick

@Mark - thanks for the fuse info

Good info! I think it was ViperZ or XRated who made several discoveries about the 2801 in 2401 mode, a few months back. He also said that you can "trick" the 2801 and set travel limits, expos, etc. in 2801 mode, then switch back to 2401/02/03 mode and it keeps the 2801 settings. I don't have a 2801, so I can't say 100%. You may want to track these guys down.

Funny weekend. Yesterday I flew my heli for 10 seconds and crashed because a bug had landed on my face and was threatening to crawl into my eyes. It looked bad as the V200 crashed into the ground nose/side first but I got away with a stripped gear.

Today I had 3 tip overs in the wind - but the main gear was spared each time. Phew.

Coming back and running the V after cleaning it looks like I will have to change the shaft for the first time. Has anyone out there got that pin out of the rotor head before?

sorry man.. I've had those weekends too. In the past, I've been known to replace three gears in one day!

Well, the FIRST time that you remove the pin can be very difficult! After that, the tiniest Allen Wrench, that came with your heli, will push it through.

The first time, you'll need something extremely tiny to drive it out with a small hammer.

By the way, Do not buy a Stay True shaft from WowHobbies for $17.95. The holes are too small! My pin got stuck in the hole, broke off, and I'm out $24 with shipping. Just get two or three regular shalves.

Flew a few good packs on my V today. Using the fuel gauge for a while now I've watched 2 types of batteries behave differently under load conditions:

Stock batteries - drain quite linearly with small voltage recovery or "bounce-back" when the motor is cut. If I'm using the normal low voltage buzzer which lights red at 3.6V/cell I'd probably to land it once the red light comes on. The powered down voltage would probably recover to 3.7-3.8V/cell, depending on how long the red light's been on and several other factors. If the buzzer goes off at 3.3V/cell it recovers to about 3.5-3.6V. I'm not sure but for the sake of battery life I'd avoid this.

My brandless batteries - drain with larger voltage recovery. Hitting 3.6V I will still see 3.85-3.95V after recovery so for these I set a lower threshold for the volage alarm. Prior to this I'd flown about 15-20 flights on this to red light mostly and buzzer on a few occasions and the battery still seems ok.

Just an observation

Originally Posted by HeliGriff

sorry man.. I've had those weekends too. In the past, I've been known to replace three gears in one day!

Well, the FIRST time that you remove the pin can be very difficult! After that, the tiniest Allen Wrench, that came with your heli, will push it through.

The first time, you'll need something extremely tiny to drive it out with a small hammer.

By the way, Do not buy a Stay True shaft from WowHobbies for $17.95. The holes are too small! My pin got stuck in the hole, broke off, and I'm out $24 with shipping. Just get two or three regular shalves.

Thanks. One main shaft is already on the way

Need a good, but cheap, camera mount!

I'm thinking about one too. I think it shouldn't be too long away

Originally Posted by nese

I'm thinking about one too. I think it shouldn't be too long away

My battery door mount didn't work. Can't get to the buttons. I'm thinking of an off-to-the-side mount. Maybe CF or aluminum.

Originally Posted by HeliGriff

Need a good, but cheap, camera mount!

You need to rethink this.

If you add up the cost:
helicopter
spare parts
learning to fly
more spare parts, and repairs
camera and mount
more parts, and repairs
test flying the camera and mount
more repairs, and parts
= $$$$$$$

Then, ad up the cost of:
camera
1/2 hour ride in a real helicopter with your camera
= $$$

Hmm

Originally Posted by dsobbe

You need to rethink this.

If you add up the cost:
helicopter
spare parts
learning to fly
more spare parts, and repairs
camera and mount
more parts, and repairs
test flying the camera and mount
more repairs, and parts
= $$$$$$$

Then, ad up the cost of:
camera
1/2 hour ride in a real helicopter with your camera
= $$$

Hmm

You're right.. doesn't make any sense to ride in a real helicopter when you can spend all your money on these.

Wowhobbies has some sort of foam anti-vibration mounts for a camera. I'm not sure how they work.

Just got back from two packs in the yard practicing nose in hovering. its harder than it looks.

Originally Posted by nese

Funny weekend. Yesterday I flew my heli for 10 seconds and crashed because a bug had landed on my face and was threatening to crawl into my eyes. It looked bad as the V200 crashed into the ground nose/side first but I got away with a stripped gear.

Today I had 3 tip overs in the wind - but the main gear was spared each time. Phew.

Coming back and running the V after cleaning it looks like I will have to change the shaft for the first time. Has anyone out there got that pin out of the rotor head before?

Funny that you should ask about that pin.

While I was flying today the pin came out all by itself.
Fortunately the head didn't come flying off, and hit someone.
I never removed the pin before this happened, so it must have just worked itself loose.
When the main shaft is new the pin is a pressfit, but the shaft is just a length of tubing with 3 holes in it. As time goes by there are micro forces applied to the pin hole, and they eventually enlarge the hole. Every time you change the speed of the shaft a small force is applied to shaft at the pin hole.

I replaced the pin with a paper clip. A temporary rig to keep flying until I get a new shaft installed.