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Old May 17, 2011, 08:51 PM
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Nice video. I'm glad you're enjoying your bird after all.
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Old May 17, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Played with the Corsair a bit more this evening. I think it might survive now. Put a t28 prop on it and used some 280ma lectron pro batteries I have for my Mosquito. I have a velcro adapter to use them on my t28 (two pieces of each side velcro strip stuck together) which puts velcro even with the bottom of the fuse. Put the battery on this right up against the cowl and ha a small rubber band around the battery and fuse also. Battery was solid in mount, and plane flew much much better than with the 3-blade and 160ma batteries. Ran it 12 minutes without a pulse or slowdown and charging time seemed to indicate I hadn't come close to running out of battery. Only had very slight wind and now I might even give it a try in a breeze. At first had trans set on low rates but put back on 100% - this little bird seems to need some throw to the surfaces.
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Old May 18, 2011, 04:47 AM
Flyin' low & slow T-28s!
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United States, FL, Vero Beach
Joined Feb 2011
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I'm going to keep that dime taped underneath the cowl until the need to re-cut the tape and perform surgery arrises. Then I'll add some lead hobby shot. You can buy lead weights for those little Pinewood Derby wooden race cars that Cub Scouts build. They're available at most arts & crafts outlets.

I'm sold on the added nose weight mod (obviously - ha ha) and recommend that you at least try it and make your own decision.

Mac
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Old May 18, 2011, 09:55 AM
Fledgling Modeller
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Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Joined May 2010
180 Posts
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Originally Posted by MaladroitFL View Post
I'm sold on the added nose weight mod (obviously - ha ha) and recommend that you at least try it and make your own decision.

Mac
I took a piece of size 20 or so piano wire and just curved it to fit in the lip of the cowl behind the prop. CA'ed it in with some foam safe and kicker and with a TP 160 all the way forward it seems to be just slightly nose heavy. I am waiting for a day with calmer winds so I can maiden her, but I will keep in mind the dime in case I need more weight in the nose.
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Old May 18, 2011, 06:44 PM
CRASH, FIX, REPEAT
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United States, KY, Bardstown
Joined Apr 2010
922 Posts
Parkzone Corsair and Trojan flying in formation. Almost mid air hits a few times (5 min 41 sec)

Check it out guys, good flying!
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Old May 18, 2011, 10:22 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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I saw no point in adding dead-weight to the bird when I could simply use a Hyperion cell that also adds significant power & can be charged in 12-15 minutes. With the Hyp 180 or 240 cells, it is easy to get the CG right on the money.

Joel
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:08 AM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
I saw no point in adding dead-weight to the bird when I could simply use a Hyperion cell that also adds significant power & can be charged in 12-15 minutes. With the Hyp 180 or 240 cells, it is easy to get the CG right on the money.

Joel
Agreed and that is my plan once I get some 180 and 240s. For those with none the added weight is about the only solution.
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Old May 19, 2011, 01:45 PM
Flyin' low & slow T-28s!
MaladroitFL's Avatar
United States, FL, Vero Beach
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by schooner2000 View Post
Agreed and that is my plan once I get some 180 and 240s. For those with none the added weight is about the only solution.
+1, schooner!
Joel, not all of us believe that we need to hack-out our plane's bodies or add a leveling stack of foam when we appreciate scale flight and the unaltered looks of the factory plane.

Those of us who are new (like me) or who don't subscribe to 3D flight (like me) feel that the Hyperion 160 provides ample speed and good flight lengths. Having 4 Hyperion 160s on hand to fly 'em out is really all I need before heading home with a satisfied grin.

There's a very thin piece of foam (half-moon shaped) at the front of the battery trough that is easily pushed through or cut out and a small weight can be added.
This morning, I had great handling with (2) 6mm washers glued @ the front and partially inserted into that small gap. Their total weight was 1.7 grams.

Because there was little wind at all, I was able to move the lipo back in the tray and the Corsair still handled like a dream.

We all have different ways to relax with our planes. While you love aerobatics, some of us simply enjoy scale flight and over-sized lipos are just not required.
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Old May 20, 2011, 06:17 PM
Fledgling Modeller
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Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Joined May 2010
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Had mine out to maiden this morning. Woke up and saw that lack of wind and took advantage of it. While it was quite squirrely at first, once it was trimmed out to level flight it was quite fun to fly on both low and high rates. Had an absolute blast flying it, and while it may not be the fastest, it is a great little scale UM imo. Had a few comments on it, asking what it was and what not...seems it looks pretty good in the air too
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Old May 20, 2011, 08:45 PM
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United States, MI, Ann Arbor
Joined May 2011
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Hi All. New Corsair owner here. Got the plane yesterday, already broke the wing in two and epoxied it back together (flies fine!)

However, today I lost a gear and part of the shaft from my right aileron servo after a hard landing. Does anyone know if I need the Short Throw Servo Mechanics (EFLH1066) or the Long Throw Servo Mechanics (SPM6832) for the aileron servo?

Thanks!
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Old May 20, 2011, 09:15 PM
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Canada, ON, North Bay
Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by Krash Kit View Post
Hi All. New Corsair owner here. Got the plane yesterday, already broke the wing in two and epoxied it back together (flies fine!)

However, today I lost a gear and part of the shaft from my right aileron servo after a hard landing. Does anyone know if I need the Short Throw Servo Mechanics (EFLH1066) or the Long Throw Servo Mechanics (SPM6832) for the aileron servo?

Thanks!
Here are the replacement parts for the wing servos:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SPMAS2000L
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM6832

Either the whole servo, or just the mechanics
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Old May 20, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bobly View Post
At first had trans set on low rates but put back on 100% - this little bird seems to need some throw to the surfaces.
Aloha!
I gave myself 2mm extra throw on both ailerons by lowering the control rod by 2 rungs (2nd from bottom rung). The mechanical advantage on these linear servos are different than the ordinary radial ones. Lastly, don't forget to tug slightly on both sides of the control rod adjustment bend to re-center the aileron the way you like it.

Hope that helps
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Old May 20, 2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Krash Kit View Post
Does anyone know if I need the Short Throw Servo Mechanics (EFLH1066) or the Long Throw Servo Mechanics (SPM6832) for the aileron servo?
Aloha:
I believe you will need the LONG THROW MECHANICS for the Aileron servos. Since this model does not come with the AR6400L (Long throw) for the ELEV or RUDD, the short throw mechanics is for that. HH should have made this clearer in their parts listing. I hope you know how to soldier small electronics when using those throw mechanic parts!

Hope this helps
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Old May 20, 2011, 10:20 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by MaladroitFL View Post
+1, schooner!
Joel, not all of us believe that we need to hack-out our plane's bodies or add a leveling stack of foam when we appreciate scale flight and the unaltered looks of the factory plane.

Those of us who are new (like me) or who don't subscribe to 3D flight (like me) feel that the Hyperion 160 provides ample speed and good flight lengths. Having 4 Hyperion 160s on hand to fly 'em out is really all I need before heading home with a satisfied grin.

There's a very thin piece of foam (half-moon shaped) at the front of the battery trough that is easily pushed through or cut out and a small weight can be added.
This morning, I had great handling with (2) 6mm washers glued @ the front and partially inserted into that small gap. Their total weight was 1.7 grams.

Because there was little wind at all, I was able to move the lipo back in the tray and the Corsair still handled like a dream.

We all have different ways to relax with our planes. While you love aerobatics, some of us simply enjoy scale flight and over-sized lipos are just not required.
What's with the 3D comment? Who said anything about doing 3D aerobatics with the F4U? Every maneuver I mentioned is easily doable with the full-scale F4U, therefore the UM version should be capable of doing them just as easily. If my Top Flite Jug's performance was as poor as the stock UM F4U, I would have been mad as hell. So would any of the scale warbird pilots I know.

Regarding scale appearance - a flush-mounted Hyp 180/240 cell surely doesn't detract from the scale appearance any more than the very much non-scale exposed stock battery already does. Plus, you get much longer flights.

Regarding the nose-weight - I surely don't care how you deal with the issue on your plane. That said - none of the experienced modelers/builders I know would actually prefer dead-weight over useful weight in any model - scale or otherwise. They would only add dead-weight as an absolute last resort, as doing so is contrary to 'good aeromodeling/engineering practice'. Hence, why I chimed in.

Joel
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Old May 21, 2011, 09:51 AM
Flyin' low & slow T-28s!
MaladroitFL's Avatar
United States, FL, Vero Beach
Joined Feb 2011
3,319 Posts
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
What's with the 3D comment? Who said anything about doing 3D aerobatics with the F4U? l
Joel,
It was you who mentioned 3D flying with the F4U. Or perhaps I am mistaken in my interpretation of the following:
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
....I slammed in full left aileron, rolled her straight up for ~100 feet. I came out of the climb inverted, and performed a split-S. I came around, lined her up and brought her in for a two-wheel landing. Back on the throttle, and up she went.

I flew around 20 flights - all with the 5043 & Hyp 180s. She now performs as an air-superiority fighter should perform. Big round loops, Immelmanns, zoom-climbs, wingovers, stall-turns, hammerheads, fast & slow rolls, high-speed strafing runs - she performs them all with aplomb.

Joel
Are these aerobatics different from "3D"? If so, then surely I apologize for my misinterpretation. But I don't even know what an Immelmann, or a hammerhead is.

I guess I need to clarify a bit deeper into the gist of my reply and please don't take any of this as an insult.

I am a part of the "longevity camp" because I personally feel that every time you have to open up a micro by cutting all of the tape, you slowly deteriorate its outward aesthetic appeal. With the dark navy blue Corsair, it's even more apparent when you begin to see white edges around the fuse clamshell halves. So I try not to cut into my HBZ or PZ planes unless I absolutely have to.

We all know the average lifespan of an 8mm or 8.5mm PZ motor is approx. 50-60 flights. I have built a few American muscle cars in my day (and even had a book published about the legendary Pontiac GTO). One thing we all can agree on is that heat is our #1 antagonist.

By taking measures to lower heat, I have seen the longevity of the PZ & HBZ motors almost double. I truly feel that longer runs of 10-15 minutes in micros that are running @ WOT or close to WOT on a bigger battery will kill a motor much sooner than careful heat management. Adding the additional weight of the larger battery will also create heat, as you are aware. However, in this instance it is what you called "useful weight" so I agree that it's a positive in that regard.

However, flush-mounted 180-240mah batteries will require hacking of the body @ the tray, so I disagree with you about it not detracting from the plane's scale appearance. Unless one is well skilled and properly tooled to do this cutting, it definitely detracts for the planes overall appearance. (On this, we will probably have to agree to disagree. )

But in the end, we all have our "druthers" and while many enjoy WOT flying with all of the moves you mentioned above, there are others who simply enjoy scale flight. (See Jim's video of the T-28 and Corsair together - beautiful scale flight at its very best!) In order to achieve this and retain our scale "look", we need to add weight to the nose of this plane.

If you read a few pages of the "Airfield 31.5-inch Warbirds" thread, you'd see that even Nitroplanes was advocating the addition of up to 3 "AA" batteries in the noses of their P-40, P-47, P-51, BF-109 and Spitfire models. This was verified by the dozens of 800mm warbird owners. I was also informed by owners of the Great Planes Spad XIII biplane (while I was building mine) that additional nose weight may be required. I did not add the weight, and crashed the bipe badly on its maiden.
That said, I feel that the addition of "non-useful" nose weight is common practice in the hobby.

I guess our differences lie between our experience and our flying preferences. A year from now, i might be cutting a battery trough wide open to fit a 500mah lipo into my Corsair.

I'm happy with my 1.8 grams of dead weight tucked away almost unseen in to slot @ the front of the tray and equally as happy that my Hyperion 160s give me all that I require. The speed and handling of this plane is perfect for me now.
This morning I just flew and flew this lil' Corsair and it was superb in every way!

At some point, I'll probably take your advice and pop a 5043 on and wring her out.

Sorry about the length of this reply.
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