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Old Aug 13, 2012, 06:02 PM
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spline size, Hyperions vs Graupner

I have some Graupner DES 448 and wondering if the Hyperion DS095 has the same size spline, so the horns are interchangeable...i am having a tough time getting replacement horms for the Graupner...
sorry if I'm a little off topic, but I figured one of you might know...
Thanks!
christian
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:58 AM
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The Graupner eqiuvalent of the 09 series is the DES427 BB (plastic gears) and the DES428 BB MG (metal gears). The horns are perfectly compatible with the Hyperions.

I am not sure about the 095fmd and the graupner DES 448, but they look to be the same servo and I would not be surprised if the horns are compatible, as the smaller ones are.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpwnd View Post
Could you see the damage to the wire when you took it apart the second time or did you have to dig around in the potting?
As you can see in the picture there are no visible signs of anything wrong. But just moving the wires caused the servo to "go wild".

I also checked the pins and there was no issue there - seemed solid. Leads me to believe that the problem is the wire and not the pot pins.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 01:11 PM
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thanks, they're on order so I'll know soon!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Belginique View Post
The Graupner eqiuvalent of the 09 series is the DES427 BB (plastic gears) and the DES428 BB MG (metal gears). The horns are perfectly compatible with the Hyperions.

I am not sure about the 095fmd and the graupner DES 448, but they look to be the same servo and I would not be surprised if the horns are compatible, as the smaller ones are.
Thanks!!! good info...
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 01:24 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Had 4 more servo's, one of them didn't pass my tests and found the wires from the PCB to the potentiometer to be corroded, brittle. After replacing (very difficult job) with new wire, the servo now works fine.

Note, the bad servo would jump if I squeezed the bottom of the case where the wires are. Hadn't even opened it up at this point.

Added some araldite on the potentiometer pins to be sure they don't move.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
Had 4 more servo's, one of them didn't pass my tests and found the wires from the PCB to the potentiometer to be corroded, brittle. After replacing (very difficult job) with new wire, the servo now works fine.

Note, the bad servo would jump if I squeezed the bottom of the case where the wires are. Hadn't even opened it up at this point.

Added some araldite on the potentiometer pins to be sure they don't move.
my two 095 servos also did make suddenly moves if squeezing the case, fixed by glue on pins... also one 09 servo I hade to resolder the connection then adding glue, seems to be ok but will be in application where its not critical if it starts getting weird...
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 07:32 AM
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Great info on this subject. I just purchased some 09's for my Swist, I'll be checking them out for sure.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 08:37 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Personally I've gotten to the point where I would choose one of the following instead.

Hitec HS7115
MKS DS6100
MKS DS65K

The DS6100 being the cheapest option but also the fattest at 10mm, the other two are only 8.5mm thick.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 02:53 AM
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yes but you can sand them a lot down....no problem. Just did that...
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Old Jun 28, 2013, 07:42 AM
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This thread has been dead for a while so I assumed that the problems with the 090 servos was over and limited to a production run back in late 2011.
I'm just finishing up a home built eSupra and had decided to use 090's on the tail for rudder and elevator that I purchased about a month ago.
Tested servos out of plane, seemed to work fine. In the final stages of assembling and putting on push rids, the elevator servo went wild. It would sometimes if I gave it an input travel from end to end, and then other times not.
Took it out of the plane this morning, opened it up and found hat the pot servo legs are standing straight up and had some brown goop on them. Solder joints look good.
From what I have read here it sound like the best action is to push the legs so that the are down as Sebbe did early in post #21 and add some epoxy.
Is this still the best course of action to correct this servo?

Thanks,

Terry
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Old Jun 28, 2013, 08:28 AM
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Terry, this what happened to my Ultra=krasch, my 095 servos started to ge crazy sometimes..

What you want to do is, put the motor backwards like JJ did in post#1,,, and try to descide wich of the legs are bad, NO problems in poking there with a toothpick, I hade many bad servos both 09 and 095, after my fix, they are all perfect since, so I am convinced this is the best method of fixing the servo, IF you want, or buy new, the problem with new one is: how good is that???

while the power is connected, the servo should be still, and you have to be able to move with input sticks... then put som pressure on the pins with toothpick, try both in pressure down and sideways, not to hard but still some pressure, as I have noticed if you go to light you can miss the bad pin... if you find it, then good. if not. well, then you are probably not finding the sweet spot, try again,, if the servo glitches by it self, the problem is often easy to find that bad spot....

Then you bend the pins, or just the bad pin, down towards the top of servo, then put some epoxi around all three pins, WARNING, do not pore epoxy in middle of the pot where there is a small cirkular dot, that could make the pot stucked .. just small amount around the pins and the plastic around, that should hold them in place..

Let the epoxy dry for at least 4-5 hours, then try again, this time you should not be able to cause the servo glitch even if putting pressure on pins/epoxi... after the final test, put the motor in on right side again, assamble the case again, and try the servo again, you could also try picking at the servo when assambled with a screwdriver at the case, or do some vibrationtest like mentioned in thread, this way you are sure THAT servo is OK..

Sebbe
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Last edited by sebbe; Jun 28, 2013 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Jun 28, 2013, 08:33 AM
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I would dump those servos and use something else.

I built 3 models last year with these servos for the WChmps.
I tested all servos and found 3 faulty from about 13 servos.
The rest seemed ok. One servo failed as you described during the pre-flight check. But I've now lost 3 models due to lost of control of the model, most likely these servos.
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Old Jun 28, 2013, 08:44 AM
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Darron is right, I would not put that servo onto a F5D racer or something expensive, NO way.... I think I wtote that in post #21 as well..

What I meant with my method is, if you do exactly as I said, and try the servo afterwards, really carefull, and you get no glitch, no matter if you put pressure on pins, pick the case or stress it with vibrations, you are "probably" good to go, in a foamie or as steering servo or similar... dont put that servo back in the expensive fast model..

If you want to buy another one, and just put it in, or do the poke test, thats up to you, I would rather do the poke test with a brand new one, then just put it in, this way you know it will "probably" hold up...

Then again, all electronics could fail in flight, you can never be sure all the time, but for me its better to check thing carefull before install.. The 09 servo I have that did not glitch at all even with poke test, they where tested on bench a few times for long time before putting them in a model, I trust them, the one that is glued with epoxi, I dont trust so much..

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Old Jun 28, 2013, 08:46 AM
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Darron, where is the picture of the airintake you did on the limegreen Viper F5D few years ago, cant find it, I want to do same thing, I think you cut a slit sideway and put some pressure with a warm AA battery ? does it work fine?

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Old Jun 28, 2013, 10:01 AM
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I've never owned a viper or indeed anything lime green.
But I have used the technique using a c sized cell.

It works, but you can see the cloth weave afterwards.
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