Well, finally crashed the Armattan. I have to say the plastic skids, and blades are pretty brittle. Got into a bit of a wabble from some backwash in a tight area, and had to put it down pretty quickly from about 2 feet. Broke off 1 skid, and 2 blades litterally shattered. I'll try some different brand blades, and upgrade the skids with the metal cnc ones I'll have coming in. No biggie. Just surprised how super thin these blades are. I can almost tear them with my bare hands. Oh well, no fault of Chris at all. Still love the quad!

Edit* Once you get that first scratch on it you really begin to experience the quads true beauty. Friggin love this thing!!

It's here, It's here . Well not quite . The USPS is holding it hostage till Monday . 1 horse town USPS does not do packages on Saturday's

Thurmond

Originally Posted by bobepine

Hi Pat,

I'm currently subscribed to HK notification system so I will know right away when these F-20 ESCs will be in stock again. I don't have any. I switched to using RCX 20 amps ESCs that are pre-flashed with simonk's firmware. They are good but the price is quite a bit more.

You know, I'm pretty sure that one of the RCX ESCs would work in conjunction with the F-20s. These ESCs are speedy and they will easily pick up on any discrepancy and I think it will fly just fine. Mine are all spoken for, though. Sorry, mate. You may be able to get your hands on a 20 amps RCTimer simonk esc on Ebay. That would probably work, too.

You might want to remove the heatshrink on that ESC and make sure the soldering points are all in good shape, by the way.

Best,
Chris

Bummer

I'm pretty much having zero luck in my search so far, this really stinks. I believe I'll just have to consume a great deal of beer....Yup, that should help. I went ahead and removed the heatshrink on the ESC and the soldering points were perfect.

I may try the RCTimer esc's, but timecop didn't seem to think to highly of them.

"This is same ol' rctimer esc with following design shortcomings:

1) No crystal. Runs off internal oscillator. Throttle range will drift with temperatures, might not start in winter without re-calibrating low-endpoint, will drift as esc heats up while running. Fail.
2) Antique P/N FET design. No one should be making these anymore. Loss of efficiency due to slower P-fet switching, more heat, etc. Costs them nothing to copy all-nfet design like F30/BlueSeries/etc.
3) No commission to simon, while still charging more than the usual 30A esc - it costs them absolutely nothing to load one or another firmware."

I've also tried a search on google and ebay looking for "RCX 20amp esc" and nothing really pops-up...getting frustrated...Just want to fly this bird, and I'm having a bunch of little headaches just trying to find some damn parts. Yep, time for beer, getting pissed.

-Pat

Might try this place. May be out of your price range, not sure if they have them in stock, but seem to be high quality speed controls for about $20 each.

http://skullcopter.com/

RCcrashdummy,

I was in the same situation as you and I found this esc at Himodel so I ordered some and I've succesfully flashed with bs_nfet.hex and they calibrate just fine. I believe that they are the same esc as the HK F-20's. I don't know how fast that they will get them to you but it's worth a try.

http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo...SC_FH-20A.html

Hi Model also has the 20 amps skywalkers for under 10 bucks. My all time favorite ESCs and they don't need to be flashed. Most reliable ESCs out there, if you ask me. I'll be buying some for myself, but won't be selling them because everyone wants to hear the words "simonk" when buying a quad. Nonetheless, the skywalkers are better, in my opinion, and so are the flyfun escs. No flashing needed.

I don't think you can use only one alongside three simonk escs, though, I'm not sure.

Best,
Chris

Chris, is there a reason they don't need to be flashed? Do they just respond faster than a typical non flashed esc and therefore don't need to be flashed?

Originally Posted by noahb

Chris, is there a reason they don't need to be flashed? Do they just respond faster than a typical non flashed esc and therefore don't need to be flashed?

They are fast ESCs. Bottom line is if you flew a quad with simonK escs and then flew the exact same quad with flyfun escs or skywalkers ESCs, and no one told you which is which, you would be unable to tell the difference; you would be unable to identify which quad has the simonk escs.

It's a good idea, however, to get the program card (4$) to program them as to turn off the brakes and to set them to nimh batteries. They can also be programmed with the sticks on the radio but that's very tedious, IMO. The card makes life easier and you have confirmation of what you have programmed in them.

Here's a video of my Warthox build. It uses 30 amps, skywalker flyfun ESCs. This thing flies just like if it had simonk escs. No difference whatsoever, but you do get the added reliability of good quality ESCs. It is, in my honest opinion, a far more reliable setup than using cheap flashed ESCs.

Best,
Chris

Warthox build For Sale (7 min 58 sec)

What's your favorite go to motor to put with them esc's?

Noahb, Phasor, Chris, thanks for the help guys! I'll be looking into all of them plus some others. When I get this sorted-out, I'll let everyone know what/why/which direction to go.

Thanks,

-Pat

Originally Posted by bobepine

Hi Model also has the 20 amps skywalkers for under 10 bucks. My all time favorite ESCs and they don't need to be flashed. Most reliable ESCs out there, if you ask me. I'll be buying some for myself, but won't be selling them because everyone wants to hear the words "simonk" when buying a quad. Nonetheless, the skywalkers are better, in my opinion, and so are the flyfun escs. No flashing needed.

I don't think you can use only one alongside three simonk escs, though, I'm not sure.

Best,
Chris

Okay Chris, I think I'll take your word for it and go with the Skywalkers all the way around and put-up my 3 extra HK 20amp SK flashed esc's for sale in this thread for those of us who may need them. I will also buy the programming card you reccomended.

Can you reccomend which settings to use from the slections below?

#1 BRAKE: (On) (Off)

#2 BATT TYPE: (Li-xx) (Ni-xx)

#3 CUTT OFF TYPE: (Soft-Cut) (Cut-Off)

#4 CUTT-OFF VOLTAGE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#5 START MODE: (Normal) (Soft) (Very Soft)

#6 TIMING MODE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#7 MUSIC: (D) (C) (B) (A)

#8 GOVENER MODE: (Off) (On)

Thanks Chris,

-Pat

Originally Posted by RCCrashTestDummy

Okay Chris,
Can you reccomend which settings to use from the slections below?

#1 BRAKE: (On) (Off)

#2 BATT TYPE: (Li-xx) (Ni-xx)

#3 CUTT OFF TYPE: (Soft-Cut) (Cut-Off)

#4 CUTT-OFF VOLTAGE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#5 START MODE: (Normal) (Soft) (Very Soft)

#6 TIMING MODE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#7 MUSIC: (D) (C) (B) (A)

#8 GOVENER MODE: (Off) (On)

Thanks Chris,

-Pat

This is why i will always opt for simonk firmware.

No need to rembember and worry about above settings

#1 BRAKE: (On) (Off)

#2 BATT TYPE: (Li-xx) (Ni-xx)

#3 CUTT OFF TYPE: (Soft-Cut) (Cut-Off)

#4 CUTT-OFF VOLTAGE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#5 START MODE: (Normal) (Soft) (Very Soft)

#6 TIMING MODE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#7 MUSIC: (D) (C) (B) (A)

#8 GOVENER MODE: (Off) (On)

Originally Posted by bobepine

#1 BRAKE: (On) (Off)

#2 BATT TYPE: (Li-xx) (Ni-xx)

#3 CUTT OFF TYPE: (Soft-Cut) (Cut-Off)

#4 CUTT-OFF VOLTAGE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#5 START MODE: (Normal) (Soft) (Very Soft)

#6 TIMING MODE: (Low) (Middle) (Hi)

#7 MUSIC: (D) (C) (B) (A)

#8 GOVENER MODE: (Off) (On)

Thanks my brother,

-Pat

Hey!

I'm interested in the black Armattan M. Do you have any in stock?

Also, about Armattan CNC. Is that one really tougher than the 'M'? The arms look thinner and it just looks like they'll bend in a crash. Im trying to learn new tricks right now and my F330 isn't holding up too well, whenever I drive it straight into the floor at the local sports hall I break an arm, and recently... Two arms per crash. And yesterday, two arms on opposite ends in a crash. How did I do that?!

Anyhow, I just want a quad I can pick up and fly with again after a crash, after replacing a prop or two. If I buy one of your frames I'll ditch the F330 and move everything over to your frame instead. I have a Warthox frame already, but your frames look more durable.