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So the motor assembly is glued in with a rubbery type of glue like silicone? Good to know. Big scary new adventure, opening the fuse for the first time. ![]() Thanks for the advice guys. Mike |
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Mike |
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Glue sticks are fine! I use the more rubbery stuff for motors, becase it gave me more time to tweak before it set.
I also use little bar magnets to hold things together, instead of tape. I cut one up into little squares and hot glued them in place. It makes popping it open something i can easily do at the field. |
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Latest blog entry: A perfect flying session
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I just performed my first fuse opening (wish I could find a good tech term for that). I needed to add more downward angle to my prop shaft. It went well, but whoever assembled my plane besides not setting the prop up correctly also used a ton of silicone glue. Horizon said "FPV Silicone by Devcon". Never did get the gear box cut all the way out. Got the front a bit loose and slid shims in to get more downward angle of prop shaft. Now if the wind would only die down I could test it out. I'll let all the T-28 guys know the results tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for the tips. ![]() Mike I can't believe I posted that the Silicone was FPV. So many acronyms in this hobby. ARF,, BNF . It was RTV Silicone by Devcon. |
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
2,717 Posts
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Just flew my micro T-28 that I just bought on vacation. Little thing is a blast. It's my first low wing and pretty easy to fly. I think it's maybe my tenth or eleventh flight overall. I've been practicing on the sim, and have several helis, a 3 channel piper cub, and an AXN floater (powered glider). These micros are great because I can go to the park and fly them on a whim.
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I used this DAP clear silicone last mod, as it was close to hand. It worked fine.
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Latest blog entry: A perfect flying session
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United States, PA, Butler
Joined Jun 2006
974 Posts
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First run a length of packaging tape wider than regular scotch tape along the seam of the fuse halves. After doing this, cut through the packing tape you just applied and the stock tape and decals. Afterwards when taping the fuse halves back up, you can use scotch tape along the seam and next time you need to open it up, you just peel off the scotch tape. Keeps the model cleaner as it won't be the last time you open it. EDIT: I now read further and see magnets being mentioned. The fuse halves being taped together is all the strength the fuse has. It was recommended often in this thread not to modify and just use magnets because you lose all the strength. Also while you are in there, you can cut and shape a few pieces of foam and glue some reinforcement in the bottom cavity of the nose. That is what gets the most damage when you nose into the earth. It crushes easily, though isn't really a bother to the way it flies since the motor is mounted in the top half of the fuse. My bottom half of the nose has been completely demolished and reglued back together very often, but I haven't had to do a thing to the top half where the motor/gearbox is mounted. |
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I think where people may have not had good results with magnets holding the fuse together is in the placement. one needs to be at the real of the upper fuse half, with the pull resisting the thrust of the motor. If one just uses them to replace the tape, the magnets will be "in shear" to resist the thrust of the motor. As all of the flight loads are handled by the lower half, not much is needed to hold the half together. But the upper half handles the thrust load and you need to "pull the lower half along for the ride."
So I mounted a small square of magnet at the LE and TE of the wing and the corresponding point on the upper half... plus, a slightly larger pair at the aft end of the upper half and on the corresponding bulkhead just forward of the horizontal stab, to handle the thrust loads. I've not had a problem. Other's mileage may vary and one can always remove them and replace the tape. |
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Latest blog entry: A perfect flying session
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Latest blog entry: AR6400 guillows Space Shuttle
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