I have just about given up on flying my Wild Hawk. (see other thread)
I could be wrong, but I think that the motor or the receiver may have been damaged when I 'smoked' it a while back.
Either way, I have pretty much given up on trying to fly it as is.
My question is ....... what would be the least expensive way to get a modified version of it to fly? In other words, would it be to shorten the wings, get a new motor/receiver or something else?
I am just exploring options - I don't want to just have the whole plane be a waste of money for me.
What other planes would work with this Transmitter and battery?
Thx

Replacement motor & esc sounds like the place to start. If you are looking for more out of the model a hotter motor might help. I'm not familiar with the stock gear, so not sure what the TX/RX quality is like. If it has 4ch, you could consider cutting ailerons into the wing (or stick them on T/E), that's if you are up to flying 4ch. It's not really about 4ch anyway, since you could do away with rudder and do ailerons instead. I started with 4ch and didn't use the rudder until I had a few flights in the bag. If you want more out of the model, that's what I would consider doing, but wouldn't think there's much mileage in transplanting the TX/RX into another model unless it's scratch-build and money is really tight !

Ok, what would be a good, inexpensive motor and receiver that would work for this model? Note that I am not looking for 'greater' performance, just a motor/receiver that should work (assuming no operator error) with the Wild Hawk. And... it must work with the Transmitter that comes with this unit.

Okay, motor option I would say around the 1600-2200kv range. Not sure if a blue wonder 1700 would do, but worth a go, they are pretty powerful for their size. Swinging a 6x4 prop (if there's space) you would need about a 20a ESC, 25a for margin.
The RX you have should be okay, it's more likely the esc that smoked. If the RX is a gonner, you might be in for a whole lot more cost as I don't know if you can readilt get a replacement RX for that model. Good luck with your task, but I'm betting you can plug your current RX into the esc and have action stations

It looks like the ESC has 2 wires soldered on at 1 end and maybe 5-6 at the other end (need to look at with magnifying glass). Is this the norm for ESCs in that they normally need to be soldered in?

Also, if the ESC is bad, should I be able to tell by the speed characteristics of the motor?
Do you have a link to the specs of the ESC I would need?

Aha, it sounds like your current ESC is for brushed motor (2 wires), with the other end a pair of wires to battery and triplica wire (small guage & joined) for the RX.
If you upgrade to brushless, it sounds like you would have to go for a new ESC anyway.
Here's a motor that would probably get you moving: http://www.giantshark.co.uk/cf2812-1...otor-p-52.html
This is the 'BlueWonder', but depends on how you can mount it: http://www.giantshark.co.uk/blue-won...-p-404459.html
Another that would help your model move well: http://www.giantshark.co.uk/epower-2...0kv-p-255.html
All brushless, so you need a brushless ESC somewhere around 20A (25A for margin).
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/hobbywin...ler-p-265.html
I just linked to a site in UK, but look around and see if you can get a supplier more local. I'm sure other RCG-ers may be able to offer guidance where to get the parts you need. HobbyKing are popular in US, expanding into UK so good for me
Which ever motor you get, with brushless power you will have a lot more 'poke' than the old brushed motor of same size.

Wow, looking at some ESCs and they are expensive!
I really would prefer to not do a lot of updates like my motor - then would require a mount..then +++.
Would prefer to just be able to get it to work-fly with the stock parts and THEN maybe get into updating motors, etc.
The ESC I have now has 2 wires connected to 1 side - goes to brushed motor, and 8 wires soldered to the other side.
Does anyone know where I can get this ESC?

Does the ESC resmble this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...USHED_ESC.html
The 3 small wires (red, white, black) go to thr RX. Two bigger wires are battery.
If the motor is okay, you could get away with this, assuming you have a separate RX somewhere in the model. When you are ready to go upgrading, the brushless system is way more efficient and better power per size, so it will be a treat when you go to it

There are 2 wires going to the motor on 1 side and 8 wires on the other side. 2 going to the battery, 2 to the RX, 2 to the on/off switch and 2 to the push button for starting the motor.

Sure wish I could get a link to the ESC that the stock Wild Hawk uses or a list of what I would need to upgrade my Wild Hawk Motor-ESC +++

Originally Posted by Bob6831

Sure wish I could get a link to the ESC that the stock Wild Hawk uses or a list of what I would need to upgrade my Wild Hawk Motor-ESC +++

isnt the wild hawk just a hawksky with wings cut ? i would look at stock esc and motor for the hawksky

Keep fixing it till it cant be fixed anymore then consider your options. the brushed motor/esc in the wild hawk isnt much use in other designs (imo). you can upgrade to a brushless system if you want or need to cause of your magic smoke episode. my research shows brushed esc to be a little more expensive than brushless and options are becoming fewer. you can get replacement 380 brushed motors super cheap all over the place. i found some at a robot supply house for 2-3$. I have also ran my motor on an old car style brushed esc. just have to disable reverse and braking. also little heavier, but i had an old one laying around and you can probably find one used for cheap/free. just have to think outside the box when keeping it on the cheap. you can get the replacement brushless motors for the axn for around $8 @hk, and an esc for 10-15$........ what ever you do keep trying. you have a plane that is getting beat up and crashing a new/different plane isnt going change anything. nothing to loose in crashing it some more if you learn something in the process. If you can get an idgaf attitude about your plane it will allow you to relax a little more on flight attempts. when you are ready for the next plane, maybe you wont have to beat it to death before you learn to fly it.

The plane (wild hawk) is capable and friendly to fly once you get the bugs worked out. it is under powered and climb rate is minimal in stock form. (i am using a 6x4 prop on stock electronics with no issues. helps a little but not a night and day difference) Most newer versions of the pusher/glider planes just incorporated all the mods that people were doing to the wild hawk into the rtf versions. like........brushless power plants and ailerons.

**** dont forget the number 1 rule! NO WIND! trying to learn/trim out a plane in the wind is very difficult for the beginners. the only thing i have learned from not obeying this rule is...... How to repair my fuse that is now broken in half.******

forget the two sided tape on the tail section and hot glue it! make sure its in phase with the main wing. (level/square)
The biggest problem my wild hawk had was being super tail heavy and causing it to try to climb way too soon and stall, tip, crash. the stock battery had to be crammed as far into the nose as possible, and the receiver installed right behind it. ....... and the thing was still heavy in the tail. installing the front landing gear got it pretty close to correct. 3/4 throttle seems to work best with a firm hand launch. full throttle seems to push the nose down a bit. do not panic and yank the elev back! try to give it just level or slight climb for the first 30-40 feet, throttle up and climb a little if you can. by this time its probably time to think about banking a turn and the plane may be way out of trim and making it difficult to keep your cool..... you may have to let it get a little further away from you than your comfortable with to buy some time to make trim adjustments. Trim adjustment on an ill tuned plane is intense for a beginner! If you can keep it alive long enough to get some altitude, back it down to about half throttle let go of your white knuckled grip on the right stick and fly the plane to level with trim adjustments. do your best best to keep your stick inputs minimal and slow. now your flying! once you get cg and trim to a reasonable tune, its easy. if you are flying at a decent altitude you can just let go of the sticks and let the plane self recover . ( unless you have stalled it out and dive bombing terra firma, you may want to apply some elevator !) And now you are ready for the next step.......landing!

Thanks Banknwank for your comments..... funny and true and maybe helpful. I will review this info right before I try to fly my Wild Hawk again. Right now, I have got a new Super Cub and my replacement feathers for my Champ..... so my next flights will probably be with just them.
My next attempt with the Wild Hawk will be with a new ESC, and maybe a new motor - AS SOON AS I CAN GET A DEFINITE SPECIFICATION ON THEM. I do see from searching around that some info is there, but not the complete, simple info that this neebee needs.
I am also thinking about adding some carbon rods to the fuselage before I try again. Any thoughts on how big they should be?
Thx.

http://www.aeromicro.com/catalog/gws...2533837/tm.htm.

no simple answers when you are sourcing parts nla from manufacturer. and you learn more putting the pieces of the puzzle together the hard way. then you , and I, will no longer be the newbs and may have more answers than questions. most threads i find good info on brushed stuff are about 5-10 years old! like the wild hawk.
less info was readily available when brushed can motors were common. and they didnt want you to know they were importing them for a buck each and simply relabling them and selling them as a super duper400turbopropmysterymotor only available from greedyguy hobbies $40. nobody real cares about the brushed stuff any more and makes it harder to find answers. and if you need to replace both motor and esc you may as well go brushless. and yes , the motor/prop/esc combo needed will depend on all those details....or you could source the specs on a stock brushless, pusher glider and order them up. better yet buy the plane. then you know exactly what specs are for replacement parts

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...C_EPO_PNF.html


the 380 and 400 are pretty much the same thing under different branding. I have searched for the direct answer you are looking my self . and no luck. the 300 / 400 motors for the slow stick are in gear boxes for turning larger slow fly props and using esc in the 8-15 amp range search mabuchi 380 and you will find specs directly from mabuchi..... most of them are happy around 8 amps. constant. i found some good info here .
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/arch...p/t-48980.html
a direct drive will pull a little more amps.......

******the short/easy answer***** about $30 (may be over est. shipping)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=9090 $6 esc +shipping
you want the 7.2v 380
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M3-RS380-72 $4 motor + shipping
buy a 6x4 prop @ your local hobby shop $3 +/-