rexless,

Which video editor do you use for your #16?

Thanks,

-Pat

Originally Posted by rexless

I almost bought the DH9117 too. At the last minute I opted not to and I've been very happy about that!

I use the 808 #16 camera for 720p video. All the on-board flying footage in this video is from this camera.
http://youtu.be/viEJG0MM0hg

Originally Posted by RCCrashTestDummy

rexless,

Which video editor do you use for your #16?

Thanks,

-Pat

I'm using adobe premiere elements only because I haven't found anything else I like.

Originally Posted by OldOz

Jeffteeh -
Frankly, I think this is bloody awful advice. If the batteries were really the LiPo MJX claims, you'd stand a good chance of destroying them this way imo. As it is, you can't have done them much good.
However, it's extremely difficult to think of a sensible plan of attack. The problem could be in the Tx or Rx: if the mode (slide) switches are OK, I'd bet on the Rx PCB in the heli. My solution would be to simply buy another heli, which would enable you to make a fast diagnosis - however, if you're on a tight budget this will be impractical.
A replacement Rx would be around $20, express postage would be cheap, and would be handy to have anyway. If you live in Aust, I could send you a spare TX.
TL, DR? - my money's on the RX PCB.
Good Luck, and maybe someone else can shed more light on this. Haven't heard of this exact problem in 237 pages(!)
- John

Edit: have you actually checked the battery voltage after a cutout? - if it were faulty, or had a high internal resistance it could cause the problem - that part of BGs advice I do agree with.....but haven't had a faulty one yet.

Thanks John for your kindly offer!
I didn't really blindly rotate the heli till LVC ( I don't know whether F45 has LVC
or not). Actually, I used the multimeter to measure the battery every 2 or 3 mins.
Anyway, the binding kept lost from time to time. So I will let the battery only go
down to around 7.0V, and considered it as empty and recharged it till green LED
on charger shown. The voltage shows as 8.44V when it's fully charged. This
process (rotating) took around 12 to 15 mins. Hence I thought that battery is in
good shape, otherwise, it can not support the rotating so long.

I reported all my tests back to Banggood. They decided to send me a pair of
new Rx and Tx to help me to fix it. This may take several weeks.

I will report back here of the results. Appreciated all advices I got here from your
folks!

Regards

Jeffteeh
Glad to hear you didn't go the whole hog with the discharge!
Though the Li Ion batteries are more tolerant to extremes. Actually accidentally discharged one to 3v total (not per cell) - after recharge, worked fine.
A shame you have to wait for BG's spares to arrive - but (so far) I've found them very helpful when things go wrong. Unfortunately, really slow too: but all part of the rich tapestry of buying from China.
One or the other will fix your heli, for sure - wait to hear how it goes.
Cheers
- John

PS - The LVC to loss of bind is a bit over 5v (benchtest PSU) if of interest to anyone.

Originally Posted by OldOz

PS - The LVC to loss of bind is a bit over 5v (benchtest PSU) if of interest to anyone.

My guess is the core of the PCB electronics run at 5v, so when the battery gets too close to 5v the voltage converter can no longer supply the steady 5v.

Originally Posted by Stoersender

It's done
Brushless main motor mod:
F45 - goes brushless. Read more

Completed it yesterday... it works like a charm


Brushless tail parts are ready to be used:

Hi guys,

I bought same BL tail modification parts. I was not able to make them function well, until i changed the tail FET from the PCB. The power of the BL tail motor was cut off when i pushed more than 50% power
I took little bit bigger FET from my DH9104:s board and now it works perfect....and it was pretty easy to change. I didn't fix the new FET straight to board....its behind 2cm wires.

Slothy -

That's it, exactly

Tumppi T -

Congratulations! - along with Hinnerk, another (but different) path is beaten to the fully BL F45.
I've ordered most of the bits, but would appreciate a link to the prop if you have it handy. Good tip on the FET, found the same problem with the bench mockup. Using a STP16NE06 for tests - seems good so far.
- john

Originally Posted by OldOz

Slothy -

That's it, exactly

Tumppi T -

Congratulations! - along with Hinnerk, another (but different) path is beaten to the fully BL F45.
I've ordered most of the bits, but would appreciate a link to the prop if you have it handy. Good tip on the FET, found the same problem with the bench mockup. Using a STP16NE06 for tests - seems good so far.
- john

That's the prop:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/320957119364?...84.m1439.l2649

Ordering! - ty

Originally Posted by OldOz

Ordering! - ty

Since I'm not such a big electronics geek, what are the specs a replacement mosfet needs?

For my mockup, 60V N-chan 16A (STP16NE06), but this hasn't been tested IRL yet. At a pinch, I'd think you could probably reuse the mosfet driving the old (brushed) motor too.

Also -
A 'green' use for the old horizontal stab support tubes - go really well as landing skids, especially with coathanger wire shoved up the middle. Haven't broken yet!

Originally Posted by OldOz

For my mockup, 60V N-chan 16A, but this hasn't been tested IRL yet. At a pinch, I'd think you could probably reuse the mosfet driving the old (brushed) motor too.

Also -
A 'green' use for the old horizontal stab support tubes - go really well as landing skids, especially with coathanger wire shoved up the middle. Haven't broken yet!

I am also confused. I though you would only be using the original tail motor output as the signal through the signal converter and supplying the power to the tail motor from the ESC. Why would this cause the fet to cutout?

Frankly, I don't know yet. Only got the bench mockup going yesterday, with a dummy load in place of the prop. Also, am not using the same converter as Tumppi T: bit of a homebrew.
But I did run into the same problem, which the higher power mosfet cured similarly.
I'll revisit the project when my 'proper' bits get here
- John

The bits I've ordered -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3800kv.html

http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx

And from Tumppi T

http://www.ebay.de/itm/320957119364?...84.m1439.l2649

Hope these do the trick.

Edit: I'll recheck the old tail rotor mosfet: perhaps I just damaged it when wiring/ experimenting with the PCA. Was tired!

Originally Posted by OldOz

The bits I've ordered -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3800kv.html

http://helidirect.com/xtreme-brushed...er-p-19238.hdx

And from Tumppi T

http://www.ebay.de/itm/320957119364?...84.m1439.l2649

Hope these do the trick.

I have a 1500kv and a 2000kv to try. I have the same converter.
I was going to modify the stock prop just to see if that will work.