did you do this?
You do not need to use the plug, you could just run Pos and Neg wires directly to your PDB
I think he used the JST for either testing or to make it easily removable with out having yo de-solder it. But he did not show soldering the
jst from the pdb.. which i think added a bit of confusion and also if thats what he ended up doing
Ive also read that you only need to use the pos form the kk to the PDB

KK2 Voltage Alarm Setup (7 min 21 sec)

Originally Posted by tedrobphoto

LittleG rcjose,Del-Dredd Three of us with same conclusion probably means that is your issue.
Today 03:42 PM
TheFernMan Yup lol +1 on the other posts

SORRY, SORRY, SORRY GUYS

I have just "moved over" from 35 mhz to 2.4 ghz AND DIDN'T BIND THE RECEIVER after changing models on TX

Please forgive me for wasting time

Thank you all

Ted

Sometimes we do a stupid mistake from time to time.

Originally Posted by GSD

Hi there, searching the thread didn't find any extensive reference on Height Dampening... Has anyone tried it with success? How is it set up?

Thanks in advance!

I know this one has been discuss a few pages back. I suppose the Height Dampening feature on this board doesn't meant to be leveling the multi at certain height.
On my quad, my issue is, when I give left or right rudder, the quad goes up suddenly. I thought that I might give accidentally a throttle input when I do left or right turn. Then I tried it several times, and make sure I didn't give any throttle input. The result is the same.
I increase the Height Dampening feature by 1. It help a little. Now I have it on 3 or 4 on Height Dampening.
So I guess, the Height Dampening is to help leveling the multi at certain unexpected condition, it's different then Height Leveling. Something to dampen the condition like what I experience.

CMIIMW

Hi
In anticipation of my second ,this time hopefully working ,board a little advice please

I am using super simple 18-20 amp ESCs

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6548

on my quad.

what is your opinion regarding the power lead should I disconnect it from M 2 3 and 4 or is it ok to leave it in place

I am not certain if the bec is switching or linear ?

Also does anyone know if they can be re-flashed using Simon's FW

Jeff

Originally Posted by LittleG

From time to time, I get this error message as well. I normally just unplug and replug the battery. This normally resovles the issue.

ii have this error also sometimes but i got message about the YAW,
power off/on solves it, but it must be still a bug to solve

may be KK will explain why this happens?

Originally Posted by Upup

Hi
In anticipation of my second ,this time hopefully working ,board a little advice please
I am using super simple 18-20 amp ESCs
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6548
on my quad.

what is your opinion regarding the power lead should I disconnect it from M 2 3 and 4 or is it ok to leave it in place
I am not certain if the bec is switching or linear ?
Also does anyone know if they can be re-flashed using Simon's FW
Jeff

I had terrible problems with SS series ESCs. I got a batch that would self destruct if you tried to power the all up at once (from the LiPo). It was a design fault that causes a voltage spike from the inrush current.

Anyway... They have badly designed linear regulators. The regulators (two per ESC) don't have the normal current sharing resistors and are connected directly together. This means the even fight each other in the one ESC. Under load you can feel one heating up as it sources or sinks excess current to/from the other.

As such I would definitely recommend removing the power leads from M2 to M4.

Originally Posted by jaccies

ii have this error also sometimes but i got message about the YAW,
power off/on solves it, but it must be still a bug to solve

may be KK will explain why this happens?

Confirmed by me too, after upgrading to v1.2 YAW input message... resolved with power cycle... Just noticed that it comes up if the receiver signal is delayed to the board during startup...

Originally Posted by pinguin

I know this one has been discuss a few pages back. I suppose the Height Dampening feature on this board doesn't meant to be leveling the multi at certain height.
On my quad, my issue is, when I give left or right rudder, the quad goes up suddenly. I thought that I might give accidentally a throttle input when I do left or right turn. Then I tried it several times, and make sure I didn't give any throttle input. The result is the same.
I increase the Height Dampening feature by 1. It help a little. Now I have it on 3 or 4 on Height Dampening.
So I guess, the Height Dampening is to help leveling the multi at certain unexpected condition, it's different then Height Leveling. Something to dampen the condition like what I experience.

CMIIMW

OK i believe at the 'dampening' effect too. But because i tested by keeping it on hands (afraid to fly!) i noticed these "accidentally accelerations" when disrupting especially Yaw axis.. but the values in this case where much higher.. the Limit always 30 and the dampening up to 30 sometimes.. i went down to 5 but then the effect seems even not exist... maybe today i'll test it more if have time..

Originally Posted by HappySundays

I had terrible problems with SS series ESCs. I got a batch that would self destruct if you tried to power the all up at once (from the LiPo). It was a design fault that causes a voltage spike from the inrush current.

Anyway... They have badly designed linear regulators. The regulators (two per ESC) don't have the normal current sharing resistors and are connected directly together. This means the even fight each other in the one ESC. Under load you can feel one heating up as it sources or sinks excess current to/from the other.

As such I would definitely recommend removing the power leads from M2 to M4.

I agree with you also! People say that ESC don't mind if they are linear and not switching but in anycase there is no way to prevent 'power leaks' from one to the other as it is impossible for them to produce exactly the same voltage... My recommendation is also to remove ANY bec cable except the one that you use... The only way to connect all of them is through some diodes (ie IN5402 or bigger) to have some kind of power backup in case of failure to the main ESC's BEC(and this ONLY if all BECs are connected to M1). Diodes will prevent the reverse currents to the ESCs

Originally Posted by gsfakian

Confirmed by me too, after upgrading to v1.2 YAW input message... resolved with power cycle... Just noticed that it comes up if the receiver signal is delayed to the board during startup...

FYI this was a problem for me, as well as a lot of other unusual behavior, before I realized that the white crusties on the underside of the board were causing trouble. Cleaning the underside of the board and making sure it was suspended above my quad seems to resolved the issue for me. No more signal issues, not counting me forgetting to turn on the Tx or plugging everything in backwards.

Originally Posted by Invid

Thanks for the idea. Checked the RX and it's getting a consistent signal and accurately reports yaw inputs from my TX. Cables are secure, servo centres and holds, but won't respond to yaw inputs.

Honestly, the only thing I can see it being is a bug in the software. I just want to know how to resolve it / workaround it.

LPF filter is not set to 100 is it, that filters all of the signal out ie no movement, I tried while testing and at 100 the Servo stays at center.

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

LPF filter is not set to 100 is it, that filters all of the signal out ie no movement, I tried while testing and at 100 the Servo stays at center.

Thanks Del-Dredd, that's it. The weird thing is it flew for a couple of batteries on that setting

I initially set it to reduce a stubborn servo flutter that was causing video issues.

Thanks a ton...I was stumped.

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

LPF filter is not set to 100 is it, that filters all of the signal out ie no movement, I tried while testing and at 100 the Servo stays at center.

Hats off Buddy..... Good pick up.

Originally Posted by HappySundays

I had terrible problems with SS series ESCs. I got a batch that would self destruct if you tried to power the all up at once (from the LiPo). It was a design fault that causes a voltage spike from the inrush current.

Anyway... They have badly designed linear regulators. The regulators (two per ESC) don't have the normal current sharing resistors and are connected directly together. This means the even fight each other in the one ESC. Under load you can feel one heating up as it sources or sinks excess current to/from the other.

As such I would definitely recommend removing the power leads from M2 to M4.

HAPPY SUNDAYS AND GSD

Thanks for getting back with that useful advice to be honest I had some issues with SS ESC a couple of years back and vowed I would not use them again but they seem so popular that I thought I would give them another chance I am regretting it already wish I had purchased turnigy plush as I usually don't ever get any grief with them ........well not .yet

Thanks again Jeff

yup seems the best way to go is with Plush/RCtimer/Hobbywing esc...
using mine now for over a year