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Old Dec 08, 2014, 03:59 AM
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epoxyearl's Avatar
United States, MD, Elkton
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Originally Posted by WW1 Flying Ace View Post
Earl,
If you have the plastic parts - the fairings - available for this build, I'd be interested... thanks. I have an unstarted kit on the shelf. Bob
I'm making them as I go- I should have a complete set this building season.(14 - 15)..I'll keep you in mind.
The strut to wing fairings have always confused me....some have a raised "ridge" between the mounts, as if the wing rib were extended down in that area .- just when I learned of a neat way to make great fairings from auto body filler.
You gotta pick one, and stay with it.....
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 09:22 AM
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United States, OK, Oklahoma City
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Earl, the reason everyone bad mouths a cross ways tank is in a prolonged bank below a certain fuel level you can starve the engine causing it to die. Then the propeller stops keeping the pilot cool and he breaks out into a sweat!

As for the struts to wing fairings, if the build doesn't have something to confuse you you're doing something wrong!
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 09:40 AM
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Earl, the reason everyone bad mouths a cross ways tank is in a prolonged bank below a certain fuel level you can starve the engine causing it to die. Then the propeller stops keeping the pilot cool and he breaks out into a sweat!

As for the struts to wing fairings, if the build doesn't have something to confuse you you're doing something wrong!
As usual-I must be doing something wrong...Loops, rolls, inverted flight, verticals (both up and down) , and normal approaches to a landing.
You're right-one CAN run out of fuel, when the tank gets too low,(like empty).

It's not rocket science to see that if a 10 tank will allow you to complete a flight, then a 14 oz tank will give you that, with a reserve.- a two oz "header"? tank supplies enough fuel for those 720 degree turns.

I ain't skeered no mo'.

Seriously, it's worked all summer in a sport plane with no problems....
You haven't SEEN confusion, until I try to explain the flap mechanism on the 'Coupe..
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 11:09 AM
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I think if I ever built something start to finish without some confusion I would be scared to fly it. It would have to be doomed!
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 11:37 AM
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...heck,..I'm confused as soon as I start...

Soft landings,

Joe
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 11:41 AM
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...heck,..I'm confused as soon as I start...

Soft landings,

Joe
Man after my own heart!
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Old Dec 08, 2014, 11:47 AM
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The confusion just adds to the feeling of success, when you overcome the odds.

Lemme 'nip at your heels' on the tank issue, just because of the looks of dismay I get when I say that out loud.

Guys will take off, and climb straight up, with a 'fore and aft' tank, and never bat an eye......and the engine may have to pull fuel a foot or more. But if you bank a model 15 degrees right or left, the first reaction is that the fuel will run away from the pickup, and starve the engine.....It doesn't, apparently...it just sloshes around in there, and some is always ready to be pulled into the little reservoir to keep it filled.

-Ahhhhh the smell of Nitrate dope !! I'm lovin' this build !
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 02:16 AM
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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...-Ahhhhh the smell of Nitrate dope !! I'm lovin' this build !
Careful you don't get hooked on that.
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 06:06 AM
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Careful you don't get hooked on that.
Oh, I don't think I'm 'hooked'- I've only been 'using' it since the 60's !,and I can quit anytime I want to.
I've been known to stay away from it for over a year, when using a different covering material.
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 06:22 AM
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I sanded it all over, and applied a second coat of Nitrate. Some of the parts will be ready to cover soon, and I'll begin the surface detailing.
I've decided it will definitely be in the paint scheme of the "Carolina 'Coupe", when it was Black..It's since been sold, and is Red now.

The tank carries 20 minutes of fuel, for fifteen minute flights. OS .90 four stroke
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 10:29 AM
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Earl, You might want to rethink the "padding" around the tank. When the tank has fuel in it the mass will generate movement in that void space and that translates into foamed fuel. I'd like to suggest a wrap of foam using the cabinet drawer liner sheets with the raised "bumps" (for lack of a better description). You can secure the wrap with a couple of wide rubber bands. Are you going to use 90 degree elbows at the tank cap to avoid chaffing the fuel lines?

Soft landings,

Joe
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 11:15 AM
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90 degree fittings it is, Joe.... Everything's a compromise in the front of a Monocoupe.

The bubbles will be dealt with, by using a cloth style fuel pickup filter, similar to a Lawn Equipment tank filter...there's a 2 ounce header tank that'll be mounted softly, just before the carburetor.

This system has worked in a Telemaster for a couple of seasons...
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 02:52 PM
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okay, Earl.

Soft landings,

Joe
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 09:48 AM
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When you apply nitrate to the frame, do you do the entire framework - all the ribs, etc- or just the edges? I started to do the entire framework when I covered a wing and there were pinholes all over the cap strips where the dope 'soaked' through the fabric. It took many coats to fill them in and some even showed through the paint coat when it was done.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WW1 Flying Ace View Post
When you apply nitrate to the frame, do you do the entire framework - all the ribs, etc- or just the edges? I started to do the entire framework when I covered a wing and there were pinholes all over the cap strips where the dope 'soaked' through the fabric. It took many coats to fill them in and some even showed through the paint coat when it was done.
I'm never, ever ,concerned about weight...so yes, I put about 3 or 4 coats on anything the covering touches...I just brush the Nitrate through the fabric, and work it into the base coats with my fingers, all around the circumference of the part.

At least three filler coats of thinned Nitrate cover the complete surfaces then , each one thinned less than the previous one...I start with equal amounts of thinner and dope, then use less thinner in each successive coat, through 4 coats, if necessary.
Sanding sealer follows (about 2 coats), then an intense visual inspection follows.
If you get pin holes, obviously there wasn't enough filler applied...
The Stits covering uses considerably less filling, that Koverall, due to Stits' finer, closer weave.
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