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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by gertjan View Post
Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!
There is no circuit diagram for the #11. I'm afraid I don't know to where the CLK pin is connected so you'll most likely have to trace it yourself. If it's directly or indirectly connected to the processor or DRAM you'll have to remove the chips first and then reball them before reassembly - all but impossible without professional equipment. Maybe someone else has already traced the board, but I'm not aware of it and there is no information in this thread.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:18 AM
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empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gertjan View Post
Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!
Clk signals often denote SPI bus clock, and if so will originate from the possessor, allowing it to read(& maybe write) the flash.
End of my knowledge, except I would assume that it originates from underneath the processor chip
Mike
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 05:40 AM
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Greece
Joined Apr 2004
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This one is onboard a Multiplex Easyglider, with footage edited to include only portions of the flight with the motor off (except from take-off).

Christmas 2012, aerial video of Paralio Astros, Greece (3 min 38 sec)
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 06:03 PM
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United Kingdom, Bracknell
Joined Nov 2000
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So ... I finally got around to playing with this step up/down voltage regulator:

http://www.robotshop.com/eu/step-up-...or-s7v7f5.html

The aim was to provide a constant voltage for the camera from the flight cell of a micro quad, so I could lose the #11's internal battery.

Having removed the battery the first test was to try powering up the camera from pins 4 & 5 of the USB socket (per the 'special' cable). No luck, couldn't get the camera to come on

OK so the 5V output from the regulator is a bit high to push into the battery connections on the board, but what the heck. Success ... nothing caught fire, did a 10 minute (approx.) recording without any issues. Camera processor chip was warm but no more than usual as far as I could tell. No sign of interference/noise from the regulator on the video.

So I've got the regulator mounted on the camera board now with thin double-sided foam tape, and a flylead (with a micro plug/socket joint) running out to connect to the quad. Weight of the camera in this form is 7.1 grams.

Need to arrange some packing/padding to give a flat surface to the camera so it can be mounted level (probably thin EPP or Depron sheet carved away to clear the USB socket, micro SD holder, etc.), and secure the lens module. Plus a little clear tape for insulation. Then it'll be time to give it a try in flight
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
So ... I finally got around to playing with this step up/down voltage regulator:

http://www.robotshop.com/eu/step-up-...or-s7v7f5.html

The aim was to provide a constant voltage for the camera from the flight cell of a micro quad, so I could lose the #11's internal battery.

Having removed the battery the first test was to try powering up the camera from pins 4 & 5 of the USB socket (per the 'special' cable). No luck, couldn't get the camera to come on

OK so the 5V output from the regulator is a bit high to push into the battery connections on the board, but what the heck. Success ... nothing caught fire, did a 10 minute (approx.) recording without any issues. Camera processor chip was warm but no more than usual as far as I could tell. No sign of interference/noise from the regulator on the video.

So I've got the regulator mounted on the camera board now with thin double-sided foam tape, and a flylead (with a micro plug/socket joint) running out to connect to the quad. Weight of the camera in this form is 7.1 grams.

Need to arrange some packing/padding to give a flat surface to the camera so it can be mounted level (probably thin EPP or Depron sheet carved away to clear the USB socket, micro SD holder, etc.), and secure the lens module. Plus a little clear tape for insulation. Then it'll be time to give it a try in flight
As you have found out, unlike the #16, you can't use USB power without the internal battery connected. However, you should beware of using 5V applied directly to the battery. It will work, but the question is for how long. You are definitely stressing the components. Maybe you should consider putting a small diode in series with the positive lead. This will reduce the voltage to a safer level and as a side effect you will benefit from reverse voltage protection.

I received a #11 from a user which had been very badly damaged by supplying over voltage. Even the DRAM chip was destroyed.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
As you have found out, unlike the #16, you can't use USB power without the internal battery connected. However, you should beware of using 5V applied directly to the battery. It will work, but the question is for how long. You are definitely stressing the components. Maybe you should consider putting a small diode in series with the positive lead. This will reduce the voltage to a safer level and as a side effect you will benefit from reverse voltage protection.

I received a #11 from a user which had been very badly damaged by supplying over voltage. Even the DRAM chip was destroyed.
I don't have any diodes lying around but I do have some small resistors and was thinking about experimenting with them? Reverse polarity protection isn't an issue as I'm using a polarised plug/socket in the flylead.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:39 AM
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Aha ... looks like there should be a diode I can 'recycle' on the PCB inside the car charger (which I am never going to use)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093

Edit - adding that diode drops the voltage at the battery pads from 5.1V to 4.6V when the camera is recording, which will definitely help. I'm only going to be making short recordings ... 5-6 mins at most ... so that will probably do. I put the diode in the -ve lead as there was more room ... presumably doesn't make any difference (so long as it's the right way round ) ?
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Last edited by Bill Glover; Feb 26, 2013 at 05:44 AM.
Old Feb 26, 2013, 05:45 AM
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Antioch,CA,USA
Joined Dec 1999
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It'll be interesting to see how you get along with an 11 on the micro quad. This is exactly what I was hoping to do. Thank you for blazing the path!
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 05:55 AM
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United Kingdom, Bracknell
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No problem

Although of course I don't want to trash it, my #11 is to some extent 'disposable' as I have a pair of #16s too. So I'm happy to experiment (with reasonable care).
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Aha ... looks like there should be a diode I can 'recycle' on the PCB inside the car charger (which I am never going to use)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093

Edit - adding that diode drops the voltage at the battery pads from 5.1V to 4.6V when the camera is recording, which will definitely help. I'm only going to be making short recordings ... 5-6 mins at most ... so that will probably do. I put the diode in the -ve lead as there was more room ... presumably doesn't make any difference (so long as it's the right way round ) ?
Find a second one and it'll be perfect! 4.6V is certainly much safer than 5.1V, so most probably you'll be OK. Playing with resistors wouldn't be such a good idea since they'd have to be in parallel and you would loose more power in the way of heat. I'm glad you found a spare diode, much safer that way. Putting it in the negative lead doesn't matter here.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 12:30 PM
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Well ... all done, pretty successful

Regulator mounted in place of the battery (with diode )



EPP to give a flat mounting surface



Taped to the landing gear, ready to fit to the quad



Flylead attached to the quad



All done







A quick test flight

X4 with keyfob (3 min 7 sec)


Got over 4 minutes of in-flight video using packs that had been standing idle for a couple of months. Must time a flight with the camera off, to compare. IIRC the bare quad gave about 9 mins.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 01:15 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Well ... all done, pretty successful
...
Got over 4 minutes of in-flight video using packs that had been standing idle for a couple of months. Must time a flight with the camera off, to compare. IIRC the bare quad gave about 9 mins.
Was the quad pretty much on it's last legs as far as staying airborne? If so, that small voltage regulating board works well in boosting the camera voltage to keep it working throughout the flight.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Yes I flew the quad to the low voltage warning - and the camera was still running after landing
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 03:35 PM
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Austria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Yes I flew the quad to the low voltage warning - and the camera was still running after landing
very stable video ... good job

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Old Feb 27, 2013, 07:01 AM
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Antioch,CA,USA
Joined Dec 1999
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Nice job!

Thanks for sharing.
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