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Old Feb 03, 2013, 05:57 PM
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Dick Stouffer's Simplex - Britplan Build Off January 2013 to June 2013

Being in the USA, almost all of my building has been of models designed here in the states. I thought it would be interesting to build something designed from the other side of the big pond. After searching the OuterZone for a design that qualified for the Brit plan build off, I decided on the Simplex by Dick Stouffer and soon realized that while the magazine wasn't from the states, the designer was. Oh well, onward anyway.

http://www.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3...ex_900x600.jpg

The article is from the May 1964 Aero Moddler magazine and I found it at the OuterZone website: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=3726

Why the Simplex? A few reasons, first it's simple! Second, I can build it from what I have at hand. Thirdly, I want to try the throttle sleeve on my Cox Medallion, I've had this engine for decades and never tried the throttle, so now's the time.

Mark
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 06:55 PM
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Previously I'd done some prep work for this build by printing and taping together the plan and making some templates. Yesterday I glued up some 1/4 sheet wood to make up the wing. I also cut and drilled the motor firewall. Note that I enlarged the firewall to be able to use this motor mount. This will give me the ability to easily add shims to modify the thrust line as needed. I altered the front of the fuselage to match the larger firewall. This won't be a totally accurate build but I'm going for the spirit of the design.

The radio equipment is an odd assortment of available batteries and servos. 2.4 Ghz is an option but for now I'm starting with an old 72 Mhz receiver.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 07:08 PM
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Today I worked on the wing since a solid wing isn't something I normally use. The razor plane got a good workout and the sandpaper made alot of balsa dust. The masking tape was to protect the high point of the airfoil during the rough shaping. Added the hardwood bits at the wing center leading and trailing edges. Glued it up and now I have a wing. While the epoxy was out I glued the blind nuts to the back of the firewall. I also cut out the fuselage sides.

Looking at the wing area and the equipment it's going to carry, this plane might have to fly fast to stay in the air. That's enough for this weekend.

Mark
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 09:10 PM
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This one has been on my list too, watching with interest. (and so nice to see a proper engine for a change)
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 02:54 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Well on the way there Mark, I've added a link to your build to Post #1 of the Build Off thread and will be watching with interest.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 06:23 AM
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Some nice work there carving the wing, and the use of tape to protect the high point of the airfoil clearly works very well. Another very useful tip to file away!

Interesting that in the article it implies the maiden flight was in a 20 mph wind, not what I 'd want to test fly a model in with only one control. This is obviously going to be one tough little model.....

Cheers
Ian
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:40 PM
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While I didn't get as much done as I had hoped this week, I did get a few things done to keep the build going.

On the wing I added some fiberglass on the center joint, and also added a 1/16th balsa cap on the ends of the wing. The purpose of the caps is to help resist splitting the wing down the wood grain when less than graceful landings occur.

The formers that straddle the wing, F2 & F4, have been glued up from some 1/8th balsa scrap. On the plan it looked like these were cut from 1/4" sheet but that seemed like overkill so I went with the 1/8" material instead. The rudder and stab have been cut out but need some sanding yet.

The angled cut on the bottom of the rudder is to allow for up elevator. I'll have to notch the fuselage also to make space for the down elevator movement.

While this will be built as a rudder, elevator & throttle control model, I do hope to experiment with rudder only flying. My plan is to set the high/low rate switch on my elevator to give full elevator control on high rate and no elevator throw on low rate. The throttle would just be set to give enough power for a shallow climb and I'll just keep my hand off that stick. I think this approach can work and it will give me the option to chop throttle and regain elevator control if (or should I say when?) I get the plane in trouble. Hopefully we won't have another major snow storm next week so I'll be able to get more done than this week.

Mark
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 02:43 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edalpoe View Post
While this will be built as a rudder, elevator & throttle control model, I do hope to experiment with rudder only flying. My plan is to set the high/low rate switch on my elevator to give full elevator control on high rate and no elevator throw on low rate. The throttle would just be set to give enough power for a shallow climb and I'll just keep my hand off that stick. I think this approach can work and it will give me the option to chop throttle and regain elevator control if (or should I say when?) I get the plane in trouble. Hopefully we won't have another major snow storm next week so I'll be able to get more done than this week.

Mark
Sounds like a good plan to me Mark and safe too, once you get any trim adjustments made via the elevator it should be perfectly OK on rudder/throttle - after all the original was and you will have the huge advantage of the rudder being proportional rather than bang-bang.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:00 AM
Sic itur ad Astra
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:57 PM
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The build continues and the fuselage is getting assembled. In the first picture you can see where I've notched the top for clearance for down elevator travel. Construction is straightforward so there isn't much to describe. For the most part I use Titebond wood glue for this type of assembly. It dries reasonably fast and I've never had to cut myself off of the model using it. Also it doesn't bother me like the fumes from CA sometimes can. In picture 3 the two sides are taped together and marked for drilling the dowel holes. The masking tape did double duty, holding the parts in alignment and preventing chipping when the drill breaks thru the far side during drilling. Pictures 4 & 6 show what you can do with all those old trophies that are collecting dust. Take the marble bases off and scrap the rest because the bases are good building squares and weights.

Next I'll add the top rear cross members and then sheet the bottom. With the back section good and stable, it'll be time pull the front together and get the firewall installed. I plan on leaving the top open until the radio installation and control linkages are complete.

All the other builds in the build off are looking great. Nice work guys!

Mark
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:28 PM
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 04:56 PM
Who let the dogs out?
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Hi Mark - Here's a link to some more recent magazine musings:
http://www.modelflying.co.uk/news/article.asp?a=1945

Here's my Simplex. Single-Channel, rudder only as nature intended. I got it 2nd hand, its well flown!
Fitting multi-channel propo in a S/C model kinda misses the point!

Cheers
Phil www.singlechannel.co.uk
Edit: added another Simplex pic, this is an electric one, pic taken at last year's Single Channel Fly-in at Pontefract:
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the pictures and the web link Phil. When I was initially researching this model I did find the article in your link and it helped my decision to select this airplane. What size engine is powering your model? Did you put any washout in the wing and if so, how and how much? I've never added washout to a solid wing so I'm thinking a good soak in steam and then letting the wing dry out in a fixture that will force a 1/16" of washout at each tip. It should be an interesting experiment / learning experience.

Mark
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 03:41 AM
Who let the dogs out?
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Pontefract, Yorkshire, UK
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Its a DC Merlin 0.75cc diesel Mark, but its been troublesome so I'm thinking of replacing it with a Babe Bee 049. I'd just go with the original design which had no washout at all. I would imagine hundreds have been built & flown that way! One advantage is that if you want to try anything different at a later date, a new wing will take you five minutes to plane up & sand!
Cheers
Phil
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 07:41 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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I wouldn't have thought that with the constant chord and moderate aspect ratio it would need washout.

Not much help to you now as you have finished carving the wing I guess, but the classic and best way of putting washout into a solid sheet wing was that used on Chris Foss's solid wing Mini Phase slope soarer. With an aspect ratio of 18 and a four inch chord this definitely DID need it's washout, in fact it was almost impossible to fly without it. The way Chris did it was to finish carve the wing as normal, then cut a taper into the last 8 inches or so of the trailing edge, removing a 8" x 1" "wedge", then carve this section from the bottom of the wing to re-finish the trailing edge. Clever, and worked a treat.
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