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Old Jul 04, 2011, 10:50 AM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by rcbirk21 View Post
thats REALLY wierd...on my a100-10 (brand new from gravesrc) i have a 29x12 on it, as per recommendation, and i got about the same amp draw, maybe just a tad more. i believe i got around 165-170 on a fresh set of packs.
Maybe the propeller characteristics are slightly different. What brand of propeller are you using?
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 01:15 AM
Barefoot Birkinsomething
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff Dryer View Post
Maybe the propeller characteristics are slightly different. What brand of propeller are you using?
im running a xoar 29x12 beechwood, but most guys are running mejzlik 29x12s
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Old Jul 08, 2011, 12:09 PM
Jason
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United States, SC, Rock Hill
Joined Jun 2004
878 Posts
Geoff, how are you measuring your amp draw? I got my new Mejzlik prop and stuck it on. Measured with a clamp on amp meter, I was seeing about 170amps. Previous data from the castle creations data logger showed 220amps max! I will have to pull last nights data off and see what it was showing.

I saw the same inconsistencies with the Xoar 26x12. The 130amps I reported previously from it were taken from the clamp on amp meter. The built in data logger showed about 150amps max for it. I'm taking my reading from the red wire right before it goes into the esc.
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 11:01 PM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_nova View Post
Geoff, how are you measuring your amp draw? I got my new Mejzlik prop and stuck it on. Measured with a clamp on amp meter, I was seeing about 170amps. Previous data from the castle creations data logger showed 220amps max! I will have to pull last nights data off and see what it was showing.

I saw the same inconsistencies with the Xoar 26x12. The 130amps I reported previously from it were taken from the clamp on amp meter. The built in data logger showed about 150amps max for it. I'm taking my reading from the red wire right before it goes into the esc.
Sorry for the delay in responding. I was flying my Extra at another IMAC contest. I measured Amp and Watts with my WattsUp meter. I measured inline with only one of the 4 batteries so Amps was 2 times and watts was 4 times the displayed numbers. Assuming that all the batteries draw the same then the numbers should be reasonably accurate.
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 05:17 PM
Jason
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United States, SC, Rock Hill
Joined Jun 2004
878 Posts
Well guys, sad news to report on my plane. I made it out to my first contest for this summer and from the first flight I should have know there was going to be trouble On the Friday before the contest I got one flight in and everything went well. Landed and took my canopy off to find my batteries had fallen through the top of the canister tunnel. In retrospect, it was not up to the task of supporting them, especially with velcro strapped on and holding/pulling them down. But with some help from the guys at the field and trip to the local home depot, we had a new, much stronger battery tray in place and ready for the next morning.

The Saturday was going great for me. I was flying ok and was in second place out of 7 guys. Not that I was flying extremely well, just everyone else was also out of practice like myself But on the second sequence of the last round of the day, I ran out of power half way through the sequence. It didn't actually die, I could just tell I was losing it fast. So I powered down to an idle and glided my way back down wind to come around for my approach. Made my final turn, at which point I had bled off too much speed, and gave it power, but nothing came on. My mistake was that I assumed I would still have power and didn't treat it like a full fledged dead stick. Plane stalled and in it went. I was low enough not to totally demolish it, but high enough to do some damage. The fuse split in half behind the canopy and I damaged a wing tip. Cracked up my cowl and wheel pants as well and of course broke my prop and spinner.

The cause of the power loss I found later was due to a faulty battery. One of my packs appears to be an open circuit. I haven't had a chance to open it up and look at it yet, but when I check the volts of all the cells through the balance tap, one cell in the middle gives no reading. The pack I had used earlier in the day and on other days, so I know it worked fine before. I'm wondering if it was just a bad connection or what happened. So I essentially had an open circuit on one series connector, meaning I was just flying on 12S1P (5000mah). After about 5.5 minutes of flight I had completely drained those packs. I'm glad they didn't catch fire, because they were pretty puffed up and leaking fluid when we got to them.

I've been working on repairs, but with all that I've got going on this summer I don't think I'll be ready for the next couple contests coming up unfortunately. Its too bad, because the plane was flying very well and it was great to be with the IMAC crowd again. The Hacker A100-10 with a Mejzlik 29x12s is a great combo. I was putting just under 4000mAh back into my packs after flying the sportsman sequence twice (about 7 minutes flight time) and I wasn't really being very careful with my throttle management. That was on Zippy flightmax 5000mah 20C packs. I have since ordered some 5800mah packs to give me that spare power when I need it but I haven't had a chance to use them yet.

The repairs are coming out nice, but I'm not a builder and things just take me extra long to do. At this point I've got the fuse back together and almost ready to cover. I keep kicking myself for bumbling a dead stick. Its been a long long time since I've had a good honest crash, and of course it had to be with my nice new plane. Anyways, live and learn I guess

Now that that unfortunate update is out of the way, I wanted to mention a website I've been working on at work called ElectroFlightRC. We've been putting together a website where modelers can come together to share their electric setups in an easy to search, central location. I thought I'd mention it here as I know there are several guys following this thread with some larger electrics. Our goal is to help out other pilots trying to get into electric flight. It will be a community driven site and as more people enter their setups into the site, we hope it will become a more valuable tool for everyone to use. So if you guys would be willing to check it out, that would be great.

Geoff, I know you've done a good amount of testing with the A100-8 and -10 motors and various props, so if you're willing to put your setups on the site with the data you collected, that would be great. We've just launched the site, so there are not too many power configs in the system yet. But we are trying to get the word out. To help generate interest, we're also having a draw in a few months. All you have to do is enter at least one power config setup to be entered in the draw. Check out the details at our home page http://www.electroflightrc.com, and feel free to spread the word

If you want to check out what the site is like, you can see my power config here: http://www.electroflightrc.com/Power...8-2dcfb8459ebf

Jason
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Old Jul 22, 2011, 11:09 AM
The Eh Team
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Joined Aug 2000
954 Posts
Wow Jason, really sorry to hear that.

I've had bad Hobby King batteries right out of the box, where a cell would not be properly soldered to the circuit board thus producing an intermitted open circuit in the pack. Voltage would show on some but not all of the balance ports and 0 volts across the main leads. Since then, I always wiggle and poke and prod at the business end of my HK batteries when I receive them to make sure they aren't defective. Fortunately I've never had one 'go bad' that had looked good to begin with, and never had an incident in the air like you did. Hope you are able to get it all fixed up sooner rather than later.

The web site looks cool!

-Eric
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Old Jul 22, 2011, 11:40 AM
Jason
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United States, SC, Rock Hill
Joined Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by eajohnson View Post
Wow Jason, really sorry to hear that.

I've had bad Hobby King batteries right out of the box, where a cell would not be properly soldered to the circuit board thus producing an intermitted open circuit in the pack. Voltage would show on some but not all of the balance ports and 0 volts across the main leads. Since then, I always wiggle and poke and prod at the business end of my HK batteries when I receive them to make sure they aren't defective. Fortunately I've never had one 'go bad' that had looked good to begin with, and never had an incident in the air like you did. Hope you are able to get it all fixed up sooner rather than later.

The web site looks cool!

-Eric
Yeah I have a feeling that's the situation. Its unfortunate, and while I can't blame the batteries (I was the one who goofed in the end) I'll definitely be checking the rest of mine out.
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Old Jul 22, 2011, 07:03 PM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
1,169 Posts
Jason;

Sorry to hear about your dead-stick landing. I hope that your repairs will be speedy. I guess that us electric folk have less practice with dead-stick landings than our internal combustion comrades. It seems that at every IMAC contest there is at least one pilot who has do perform some repairs after an emergency landing.

I have been extremely lucky with my Flightmax (Turnigy) batteries batteries. All 3 sets (12) batteries that I bought 2 seasons ago are still going strong. I recently had an issue with balancing but I discovered that the issue was dirty pins on my Hyperion balance connectors.
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Old Jul 22, 2011, 07:22 PM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_nova View Post
Geoff, I know you've done a good amount of testing with the A100-8 and -10 motors and various props, so if you're willing to put your setups on the site with the data you collected, that would be great. We've just launched the site, so there are not too many power configs in the system yet. But we are trying to get the word out. To help generate interest, we're also having a draw in a few months. All you have to do is enter at least one power config setup to be entered in the draw. Check out the details at our home page http://www.electroflightrc.com, and feel free to spread the word

If you want to check out what the site is like, you can see my power config here: http://www.electroflightrc.com/Power...8-2dcfb8459ebf

Jason

I will try and add some information to the electroflightrc site some time soon.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 06:14 PM
Registered User
Canada, AB, Clairmont
Joined Jun 2011
41 Posts
KV for a100-10

Just found this thread... reviving it after a long time..

I hope all these planes are still proving themselves competitive.

Some really good info here.

I too am putting together a 35% electric with the a100-10 and jeti 200.

Sometime in the last year or two Hacker has changed the kv rating on the a100-10.

The latest version is 150kv and the older one is 180kv... which seems to make some sence hearing about the 27/29" amp numbers.

Mine is a 150kv, and From what I hear, I am going to start with a 29-12.

Geoff... is your a100-10 a 150 or 180 kv??
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 06:14 PM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
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I have used the A100-10 150KV but currently I have the A100-8 installed in my Extra running a 24x12 Xoar wooden propeller. The performance and efficiency was about the same as A100-10 with a 27x10. When I ran the 27x12 propeller with the A100-10 the power was more than I needed and it was harder to manage the throttle to save battery. I would think that a 29x12 would be too much on 12 cells for flying IMAC but you you did not state your purpose.

I flew two IMAC seasons with my Hangar 9 Extra but now I am building a 40% replacement. My aim is for the 40% to be about the same overall weight as my 35% and I will use the asme motor and speed controller combination.




Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdr View Post
Just found this thread... reviving it after a long time..

I hope all these planes are still proving themselves competitive.

Some really good info here.

I too am putting together a 35% electric with the a100-10 and jeti 200.

Sometime in the last year or two Hacker has changed the kv rating on the a100-10.

The latest version is 150kv and the older one is 180kv... which seems to make some sence hearing about the 27/29" amp numbers.

Mine is a 150kv, and From what I hear, I am going to start with a 29-12.

Geoff... is your a100-10 a 150 or 180 kv??
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 12:18 AM
Registered User
Canada, AB, Clairmont
Joined Jun 2011
41 Posts
cool. Thanks Geoff.

I am not flying IMAC, just 3d hotdogging and general flying.

I am also looking at putting together a 40%. I was going to go with the a150-8 or even a200.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Canada, BC, Abbotsford
Joined Jan 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_nova View Post
I just found Xoar makes a 3 blade 26x12 I may try out. Do you have any numbers on that 27x12? Like RPM, Amp draw, Watts. I can't remember if you already listed some in this thread for that combo...And what make was it?
Hey Have you tried the 26x12 3 blade prop yet?
I've got two kits that are going to be a future build. One is a Ziroli F4U. The plan has been to build it and use a Zenoah GT-80 (gas engine) I've been kicking the idea of going "E" power on it. I know that an A60 would fly it OK. The most important issue if I did deside to go for "E" power would be swinging a scale dia (26") prop. Otherwise I would just stick with the gas engine when.
Any one have any numbers for a 26" 3 blade prop.
Rick
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 10:31 PM
Team Hacker
Geoff Dryer's Avatar
Vancouver BC Canada
Joined Jul 2006
1,169 Posts
Well my Hangar 9 Extra is now officially my IMAC backup plane. Over the winter I built a very light 40% class plane from a builders kit with help from a friend who has built many Carden's

Slick 540 (42%)
Wing span 119"
Length 110"

Hacker A100-10 motor
Hacker 170 ESC
Mejzlik 27x12 propeller
4 - 6S 6000 mAh Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries (12S-2P)
2 - Turnigy 2S 1800 LiFe04 batteries (receiver and servos)
4 - Hitec 7950 servos (one on each elevator and aileron surface)
1 - Hitec 7980 servo (rudder)
Hitec Optima 9 receiver
Smart-Fly Power Expander Pro with failsafe switch
All up weight (including batteries) 37 lbs

Before my last practice day I switched from a wooden Xoar 27x12 to the Mejzlik. So far the power seems about the same but a little more efficient.
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 04:05 AM
Registered User
Moss, Norway
Joined Jul 2003
439 Posts
Hi Geoff.
Have you flown any IMAC sequences with this model/set-up yet?
Have you found that the 4x6s6ah packs have enough energy for two sequences?
I have a similar battery set-up in my own design Zlin 526 AFS with a wingspan of 2600mm (102") and an AUW of 12,3 kg (27 lbs)
I have plenty energy for two sequences Intermediate (almost enough for three sequences) and adequate (with some reserve) for two sequences Advanced.
37 lbs (16.8 kg) is quite a bit more than my model, so I would be interested to hear your results.
Nice model, by the way.
Regards,
Magne
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