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Old Apr 23, 2015, 11:44 PM
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The pitch servo on my Mini went bad, it goes to full down when the heli initializes, and when I put the servo on another socket on the receiver board, it still goes to full down travel. So it must be the servo, right? Any suggestions for a reliable source for a replacement servo? On eBay there are plenty of "original Walkera" servos, but I wonder if all are really original ones. With other brand servos, you also see a lot of clones, getting sold for being a real brand name servo, but looking closer, are just copies, with different specs than the original servo.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 12:30 AM
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CJ, Helipal, WOW, Banggood....walkerahelicoptersupply.com....
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 12:40 AM
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Bang good should have them. also CJ. CJ also has 350 ma WK battery that works fine in this heli.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 02:41 AM
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And which is the best for shipping to Europe? I have no credit card, only PayPal

Edit: ordered from Banggood, Helipal didn't have a Genius canopy (wanted to mount this for better visibility, the dark red and black is hard to spot outdoor), and also when trying to open the page that has the mini CP servo listed, it opened a new page with advertizing vids about drones Helipal sells, but nowhere on the page was the servo to be found. Banggood also had no stock for the Genius canopy, but did have the Super CP canopy, which is also better for visibility with white and red.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggma View Post
I have 1 Super CP and 2 Mini CP. After about 2 years, all have short flight times. One of the mini is BL motor. The Super CP is wallkera BL motor. I tried switching motors, and new brush motors, resolder battery wire, and new batteries.

The only thing I haven't tried is a new board, is there components on the board that gets worn out and shorten the flight times?
If you have 1 Super and 2 Mini, isn't that about the same as saying you have 3 different RX, and all 3 have short flight times?

If so, I'd highly doubt all 3 RX's became weakened at the exact same time.

Also for the same reason, I'm assuming they each have different Motors, and therefore highly doubt all 3 different Motors became weakened at the same time.

Any of the wiring between LiPo and RX, and RX to ESC and/or Motor could become weakened (i.e. broken Wire strand(s)) from mis-handling. Each broken wire strand will result in shorter and shorter flight time. However for the same reason as above, it would be somewhat doubtful all 3 heli's wiring were equally abused at the exact same time resulting in all 3 having the same short flight times?

Assuming you used the same LiPo's for all 3 heli's, then I'd suspect weak "shared" LiPo's were causing the short flight times on all 3 helis; however you said you used "new" LiPo's.

AFAIK there's nothing remaining to go wrong except mechanical binding, but I doubt 3 heli's would have mechanical binding at the same time, unless the same "stupid" mistake was made when all 3 helis were re-assembled incorrectly? That sounds the most probable, if all the above "facts" in the above paragraphs were actually true.

For me, when I have shorter than normal flight times, it has always been due to:
Weak LiPo
Weak Wire(s) between LiPo and RX, RX to ESC and/or Motor(s)
Weak Motor(s)
Unless you are electrically "savvy", then the only way I know to determine which of the above electrical parts are bad or good, is to swap with known good parts. The cheapest way to purchase all those different electrical parts is a new heli (and keep it in "new" condition for troubleshooting purposes). But you have 3 !!! So I'd hate to recommend a 4th

Except for the LiPo's none of the other electrical parts will become weakened just from sitting on the shelf. A perfectly good LiPo's if not stored properly, definitely will become permanently weakened over time. Nearly ever weak LiPo I've ever experienced has been because I simply stopped flying (not using the LiPo) for more than a few weeks and the LiPo wasn't properly stored at the proper storage ~3.8 Volts. Although there have been a few times that I've over discharged LiPo's by accident and permanently ruin the LiPo.

Also, when it comes to over discharging LiPo's, amount of discharge (flight) time it is NOT the most important criteria that determines whether or not a LiPo is over discharged, it is the LiPo's resting Voltage after flight. The lower below 3.7 Volts resting voltage a LiPo is discharged to, the faster a LiPo will "age" (the shorter will be it's useful flight time). In other words:

To keep the math simple:

Assume a new LiPo has 100 mAh capacity.

That new 100 mAh capacity, should be able to discharge to about 3.7 Volts, and when first recharged the charger should put in about 80% of the capacity back into the "new" battery.

As the battery ages, that battery will progressively deliver less and less mAh (flight times will become shorter and shorter) before it discharges down to 3.7 Volts resting.

If you would have instead discharged that same LiPo (not) much below 3.7 Volts, it will pre-maturely permanently deliver even lesser mAh afterwards.

What I'm trying to say, is as the LiPo ages, the time between full charge 4.2 and 3.7 Volts will become shorter and shorter.

If you always fly an exact flight time, and never verify the LiPo didn't/doesn't discharge below 3.7 Volts resting, then there WILL come a time when it will discharge below 3..7 Volts resting, which WILL quickly prematurely shorten the LiPo's useful "life-span".

Most people measure flight times, ONLY because they don't have any idea what Voltage the LiPo is during flight !!!!

(There are a few design reasons why the Mini IS better than Blade equivalent heli's, one is LiPo Voltage telemetry !!! )
(LiPo Voltage Telemetry allows the pilot to squeeze every second of flight time regardless of how old the LiPo is, or how fast I fly the heli !!!!)
(the faster I fly the heli, the quicker the heli will reach 3.7 V resting, the shorter the flight time should be)

Allowed flight times are determined empirically, by measuring LiPo resting voltages after flights, verifying that amount of flight time didn't discharge the LiPo below ~ 3.7 resting Voltage.

Someone can probably explain it better. But what I'm trying to say is amount of time, or mAh is NOT the most important thing to measure at end of flight, LiPo Voltage is. Discharging a LiPo below 3.7 Volts resting Voltage WILL permanently shorten ALL future flight times (if you discharge below 3.7 Volts resting, then from then afterwards 3.7 Volts resting Voltage will arrive even earlier!!!!)

But even if you don't ever discharge below 3.7 Volts resting, it will arrive sooner and sooner each flight.

The difference is how much sooner. In other words, the difference is how many flights (recharges) between new 4 minute flight times and old 3 minute flight times.

NOTE:

The don't discharge below 3.7 resting Voltage is a rule of thumb. If you never discharge below 3.8 resting Voltage you'll get significantly more life-cycles per LiPo (but significantly shorter flight times); whereas if you constantly discharge to 3.6 resting Voltage you'll get significantly less life-cycles (but a little longer flight times). 3.7 resting Voltage is where most people think they get their biggest "bang" for their $ (compromise between most LiPo life cycles and longest flight times), but which is best is ultimately an individual's choice. Some race competition "die-hards" choose to go ALL out on their first charge (only get one useful lifecycle, but had a "blast" during that one extremely flast and/or long flight; whereas a poorer person could choose to "baby" the exact same battery with 1 minute "whimpy" flights, every day for the rest of his life.

Choose wisely
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Last edited by i812; Apr 24, 2015 at 04:52 AM. Reason: Added lengthy LiPo info at end of post
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 01:12 PM
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FWIW I bought WK 350 ma 25c from CJ. These batteries were for Y-6 Scorpion. I have two bl Mini's and one Stock bird. I fly them four minutes and end flight. I do not fly till helis power starts to fade. That said batteries last a long time. Genius c/p I use 240 ma and 350 ma. Tray needs the stop removed.

Bang good sells a 400 ma 25 c and claim its 400 ma ?? They work but one I tried was no better than 350 and did not last anyware as long. Your mileage may vary and i'm not last word on them. These are smallest of most c/p's and four minutes is dandy.
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Old Apr 24, 2015, 01:49 PM
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Thanks, I'm gonna do the LVC mods and see if that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
If you have 1 Super and 2 Mini, isn't that about the same as saying you have 3 different RX, and all 3 have short flight times?............................................ .......................



Choose wisely
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggma View Post
I have 1 Super CP and 2 Mini CP. After about 2 years, all have short flight times. One of the mini is BL motor. The Super CP is wallkera BL motor. I tried switching motors, and new brush motors, resolder battery wire, and new batteries.

The only thing I haven't tried is a new board, is there components on the board that gets worn out and shorten the flight times?

eggma, fix it for good. I just did this week, my super CP is better than ever.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...8#post31442662
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 03:28 AM
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here is some info for mini cp resistor mod

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=535383
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 01:02 PM
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After one year on Mini c/p from trade finally broke something. Tail skid was broken when I got it. Glued a few times but it gave up the ghost. Now bl I flew it yesterday in intese wind. I let it get behind me but was able to get it close in.
Caught me in the side and took out tail skid. Funny it fell to ground and blades still spinning. Gave it some power and up it went fine as ever.
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 02:35 PM
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Mini now has nice carbon tail skid. Bought bunch of WK stuff from Club heli. He was selling alot of stuff for .50 each. I bought esc's/ blades/ misc. parts. This was in batch. Made for bl bird but hey made it work.
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 02:45 PM
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I have a super CP with a brand new motor and only get 30 sec flight times and tried a brand new motor and it gets hot quick as well. Battery tests out at 4.2V and same happens with multiple batteries. When I turn the main gear resistance seems minimal, but I'm worried there is a friction issue. How can I test/fix this issue?
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 11:15 PM
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A bad battery will show good voltage. As soon as a load is added/ volts drop.
I f flown to point heli can not lift off then flow to long. Good sign battery is bad its gets warmer than normal. If motor is new then battery is bad/ unless motor is to tight against main gear.
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Old Yesterday, 12:55 AM
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Awesome.. thanks for the links guys..

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbatstone View Post
eggma, fix it for good. I just did this week, my super CP is better than ever.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...8#post31442662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamichx View Post
here is some info for mini cp resistor mod

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=535383
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