HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old May 22, 2011, 05:12 AM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Lets get started!

Sunday evening I managed to get a bit done after a weekend up at the shack fishing.

Had a look over all the contents of the box. all looking good, though the tail has been bent during transport and one of the balsa drag spars is exactly straight. Would a 1x10mm carbon ribbon be enough for a drag spar?

With some help from my eldest son, (he's almost 3), I test fitted the spars, and cut out some foam for the joiners. I need to get the dremel router bit onto the foam to make the channel deeper. But my youngest, (9 months), decided he wanted to join in on the fun. So we played with the spars and wings until dinner time.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old May 22, 2011, 12:30 PM
FSD
Definite Flight Risk
FSD's Avatar
Joined Apr 2008
2,678 Posts
What a cute future sloper you have there...and the plane ain't bad either.
FSD is offline Find More Posts by FSD
RCG Plus Member
Old May 22, 2011, 03:58 PM
Gimme some slope
oooCANDLEMANooo's Avatar
New Zealand, Auckland, Auckland
Joined May 2011
172 Posts
sweet,
it's good to get the kids in on the action.
my boys drew pictures of the design.

all the best with the build
oooCANDLEMANooo is offline Find More Posts by oooCANDLEMANooo
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 08:18 PM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Yesterday I got the router out to make the spar channels a bit bigger so the joiner and spar will be nice and flush with the surface.

I measured how much more foam needed to be removed. Then put some tape onto the router bit measuring out that depth. It is much easier to gauge how deep you are going that way.

Time to draw. Marked out the rounded wing tips and servo placement. servos are going 325mm in from the centre line. It says 340mm in the instructions but the servo cables aren't long enough for that. Got a good deal on the servo's 2x hitec 645mg for $85 delivered.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 11:17 PM
Registered User
Zé Povinho's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Feb 2005
309 Posts
I had the same issue with the metal joiner but I did the same you did-dig until it was flush with the fuse. You are doing great. What are you planning to use to cover your plane? I used Fluorescent Blue and Bright Yellow Ultracote-I left the fin uncovered.
Zé Povinho is offline Find More Posts by Zé Povinho
Reply With Quote
Old May 25, 2011, 12:56 AM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Zé Povinho, I'm going to cover with heavy lam film and then use HK covering over that. The colours will be bright red yellow and black.

A question to everyone. How should I build in a ballast tube, into the wing or the body?

ie in the body.


or a tube either side of the main spar, can't find a good pic.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old May 25, 2011, 06:37 AM
Scorpian 60'' 2012
BMtech's Avatar
Kurrajong Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,457 Posts
ballast tube

Hi Dug,

Id go in the wing like this , we use it in the Drongo & the ZEPPer & you can substitute wood dowels to take weight out, But you have to place it on the CG


Rick
BMtech is offline Find More Posts by BMtech
Reply With Quote
Old May 26, 2011, 06:26 AM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Thanks Rick, but I've already started glueing in the main spar which justv happens to be right on the CG. So I guess I'll try a different method.

Yesterday the wing tips got sanded round, and the wings glued togther with pu. After that had set in went the top spar, again glued in with pu glue. I wanted the glue to foam up and fill any gaps between the spar and foam. But I had my first stuff up. one of the dive weights that was holding the spar down fell off the spar and when the glue foamed up it pushed the spar up so it wasn't flush with the wing surface. So tonight I cut the spar out, and cleaned out the glue so that it sat back in the wing nicely. so now the wing is sleeping with a few more weights on it.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old May 30, 2011, 06:09 AM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Struck a little more trouble in the build, the ballast tubes. Following the ballast 101 intructions using a 20mm steel bar for the mould, wrap with greasproof paper, and then tape. Wrap with kevlar, glass and some carbon tow, then add resin. The problem was the next day when I tried to take the ballast tube off the steel bar. It just wouldn't come off

I tried pretty much every mode of brute force to move it. But to no avail. So I had to come up with a better plan. This is was my train of thought, can't pull it off not strong enough... what's strong?... My hilux ute! hmmm how do I hold onto the tube and steel bar?... Prusik knots!

So I tied some rope onto the steel bar, and a prusik knot on the stuck ballast tube. The rope was tied onto a tree and the other to the towbar of the ute. then with the power of a 3L turbo diesel working for me off came the tube
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old May 31, 2011, 05:49 AM
Paul
spirroau's Avatar
Tasmania, Australia
Joined Nov 2008
533 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dugout View Post
Struck a little more trouble in the build, the ballast tubes. Following the ballast 101 intructions using a 20mm steel bar for the mould, wrap with greasproof paper, and then tape. Wrap with kevlar, glass and some carbon tow, then add resin. The problem was the next day when I tried to take the ballast tube off the steel bar. It just wouldn't come off

I tried pretty much every mode of brute force to move it. But to no avail. So I had to come up with a better plan. This is was my train of thought, can't pull it off not strong enough... what's strong?... My hilux ute! hmmm how do I hold onto the tube and steel bar?... Prusik knots!

So I tied some rope onto the steel bar, and a prusik knot on the stuck ballast tube. The rope was tied onto a tree and the other to the towbar of the ute. then with the power of a 3L turbo diesel working for me off came the tube
Hey Doug
State wide cranes are cheap to hire and have a modern fleet of cranes, ranging from 7-160 tonnes. Cranes are supplied to customers with experienced, sounds like you could use one.
Cheers
spirroau is offline Find More Posts by spirroau
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 04, 2011, 07:40 PM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
Ovcer the past few days I've done a bit more on the dub.

Fuse was shaped, I don't want it too round this ain't no jart. So the corners are still there just a little softer.

Servo bays have been cut out as well as the hole for the ballast tubes.

I'll let the pictures tell the story.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 06, 2011, 09:34 PM
R.I.P
josh18's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jan 2010
3,500 Posts
Too late now, but I have found that if you have a soldering iron with a removeable tip, you can turn it around so you have a square end on it. Set it to the depth you want and you can run it along a straight edge and 'rout' out spar channels and servo/rciever cutouts very accurately and easily with no mess. You need to buy the "DS special " JW next. They have 4 solid spars and a carbon trailing edge. They are super stiff and heavy but can still fly in lightish lift. I had one of each and the heavy one was very fast and rock solid and the light one was super fun for ds acro and lighter winds. I really need to rebuild them!
Josh
josh18 is offline Find More Posts by josh18
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 07, 2011, 07:27 PM
Registered User
dugout's Avatar
Hobart
Joined Jun 2007
745 Posts
I tried using my soldering iron at the start but I didn't like the way the egdes weren't very clean, (its a gas powered one). The router gave a nice clean edge so everything fits in more snuggly. DS special will be next one for sure. I'm only learning DS and I wanted to be able to use this jw as an allrounded. Still haven't found a really good DS slope near me yet.
dugout is offline Find More Posts by dugout
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 07, 2011, 08:01 PM
R.I.P
josh18's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jan 2010
3,500 Posts
Hi Doug. I was really suprised by how easily the ds special would fly in a light breeze when I first built it. On a decent slope you can fly it in under ten knots and it was about 1750g (of course much more wind is better) Jw's have a huge wing area and thats partly why they can float a bit if you need them to. I reckon it also makes them much more forgiving than other planks with regard to pitch control and resisting a tip stall. When I first DSed my heavier JW it kinda felt like everything was in slo-mo but n reality was much faster. You wont know yourself- A new heavy JW feels to me just like a good mouldy in DS.
Jeez, talking about JWs is getting me all teary, as both of mine are dead- Think I might have to re build em!
Josh
P.s as for the soldering iron, I think you would need an electric one with a square tip to get good results. Its worth buying a cheapy just for that if you do a lot of foamies I reckon, though Ive never tried a router.
josh18 is offline Find More Posts by josh18
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Slow Combat One Design Build jb753 Electric Combat 15 Feb 08, 2012 09:59 PM
Discussion my slow hawk build bhcnomo Ornithopters 162 Aug 19, 2011 07:11 AM
Build Log Yet another JW60 build log Zé Povinho Slope 49 Jun 19, 2011 03:50 AM
Sold Jw60 ecoliburger Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 8 Apr 28, 2011 01:19 AM
Build Log L2 JW60 build Pismo Dynamic Soaring 67 Jan 20, 2008 10:57 AM