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Old Sep 15, 2014, 09:20 AM
Registered User
United States, NJ, Evesham Township
Joined Dec 2000
80 Posts
Just got an X2 3.800, (my first). Looking to find the best way to glue in the servo connectors to the edge of the center panel. Any ideas to insure the connector doesn't jar loose on a dork landing? How do you get the glue on the inside/back side of the wing without wiping it off as you put the connector in? Is 1850g a reasonable weight. If I want a smaller stab and bigger rudder who is this guy in Cyprus and how do I contact him?
John
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 10:12 AM
Marco Generali - italsoaring
snoze88's Avatar
Cremona, Italy
Joined Nov 2010
184 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwjenks View Post
Just got an X2 3.800, (my first). Looking to find the best way to glue in the servo connectors to the edge of the center panel. Any ideas to insure the connector doesn't jar loose on a dork landing? How do you get the glue on the inside/back side of the wing without wiping it off as you put the connector in? Is 1850g a reasonable weight. If I want a smaller stab and bigger rudder who is this guy in Cyprus and how do I contact him?
John
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 10:53 AM
that's gonna hurt...
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined May 2005
1,145 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwjenks View Post
Just got an X2 3.800, (my first). Looking to find the best way to glue in the servo connectors to the edge of the center panel. Any ideas to insure the connector doesn't jar loose on a dork landing? How do you get the glue on the inside/back side of the wing without wiping it off as you put the connector in?
John
I've done it a couple of ways, and I have built several Xplorers.
Sand the connector before gluing.
If the fit is fairly tight, black rubberized CA works well. If it slightly loose, then 5 minute epoxy mixed with micro balloons works. Plug in the aileron extension so you have something to hold on to and put some epoxy on the connector before you slide it into the wing. It should stick out of the wing about 1/8", not flush. Hold the connector in place until the glue starts to kick. then clean up with a q-tip and some alcohol. The opening in the wing tip should be a little oversize, so a small bead on the main panel will be OK.

Another tip is to use a small white paint pen to put a stripe on the top of both connections, it makes it easy to see which way to plug in the connectors when assembling at the field.

Bruce
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 01:13 PM
Registered User
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Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
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I don't like to glue regular servo connectors into wings.
I usually install 3-pin Deans connectors instead for better reliability.


Lenny
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 01:39 PM
RV7guy
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Chandler, AZ
Joined May 2004
384 Posts
Try this

I made a fixture with a male plug and a plate glued to it. I plug the two together and check the fit in the wing. Sand the shell of the female connector. I use medium CA and put a little on the female connector. Now with the male/female connector together. I slide it in place. I now have a perfectly flush fit.

But wait, there's more.......

Don't unplug anything yet. On the bottom of the wing inboard of the connector, I Dremel a small 1/8" hole. You should see the connector shell. Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and work it into the hole. I mix graphite powder in with the epoxy to make it black. You can completely fill the hole and get it flush with the skin. If you use non colored epoxy you can use a Sharpie to black out the epoxy.

Also, I ALWAYS set up the connector so the Signal wire is toward the trailing edge.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler, AZ
Team Futaba
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 02:51 PM
Don't take your guns to town
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
2,579 Posts
I agree that the Deans 3-pin are better suited for this. I first glue the receptacle flush with the fuselage or center panels then glue the plugs protruding from the tips. This way no connectors get banged up because the wing alignment pins protect the connector. Here's my process:
  1. Sand the connectors and wipe with isopropyl.
  2. Put thin clear tape over the hole in the root, then cut the opening in the tape and pull the connector thru.
  3. Build a simple plate to stick the receptacle onto: balsa scrap + double foam tape + clear tape sticky side up, then stick the face of the connector to this. (see note)
  4. Slop a bunch of glue (5-min, etc) on the connector (face is protected from step above)
  5. Shove it in and stand on edge to cure. Tape seals and protects everything from squeezeout while holding it all in place.
  6. When cured, remove everything but the wing root tape, apply tape to the wing tip and cut hole in the same fashion. Wipe tape with the slightest bit of vaseline (easier before cutting hole).
  7. Plug in tip connector and slather back with 3M 5200.
  8. Install tip and stand up to cure.
  9. Disassemble in a padded room
If you were doing the math along the way you'd see that this method creates a .005" (0.1mm) interference fit due to the thickness of the tape. This is usually fine, especially if the tip hole is slightly larger than the connector such that the 5200 can flex. Otherwise you can leave a slight gap (paper thickness) when you plug in the connector, or omit the tape and only use Vaseline.

note: Epoxy doesn't stick well to the clear tape so it's used throughout as release film. Even the sticky side doesn't really stick. But for the second step with 5200, a little vaseline helps.
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