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Old Feb 12, 2010, 08:19 AM
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hoffboy's Avatar
Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Okay, let's work through that list.

1. Wheel section isn't that far off scale. If you want shallower cones, and cones both sides of the wheel, feel free.

2. Yep, T13 is one piece, cut through after fin/rudder are built.

3. F3 uprights aren't intended to be doubled, but it won't do any harm.

4. F6A is now labelled.

5. I can't really see the need for an extra, extra X brace since the fin glues between pieces of block balsa. That should provide all the security needed.

6. F2B is now modified on both plan and cut file.

7. Fine, although I would have expected the block balsa to provide adequate support for these pieces. Fit it early, shape it later.

8. On my plan, the one your PDF was generated from, the u/c wires are labelled A and B at both places, but with an additional reminder of which is Front and which is Rear on the actual wire drawings.

9. Yep.

10. Don't forget to bend the ends of the u/c wires as shown in side view, for binding to skids.

11. U/c rigging will be functional, to prevent fore and aft movement.

Pete
All sounds good and makes sense Pete with but a small clarification. The very first item, #1, what I meant was that the cross section view of the wheel is literally drawn larger on the plans at 7cm diameter vs. the side view which is 5cm, the correct size for the rest of the drawing. Like I said, it only caused me a moment's head scratching, and the enlarged cross section may help some grok the assembly details, so maybe just an "enlarged for clarification" note or somesuch would help dolts like me.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 08:31 AM
Pencil grip
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Olympia, WA
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More Reference Material

In the interest of shedding some light on the fun I'm going to have rigging this thing, and also to show what a gorgeous and oddly graceful full scale airplane The Rooster really was, I'm dropping all the photos and renderings from the earlier referenced Polish site into this post...for posterity...in case the other site suddenly disappears, as has been known to happen.

Incidentally, my research indicates that The Rooster may currently reside in a technical museum in Poland. Thus my next trip over the pond might just have to include a small detour.

OK, check it out (and note in the side elevation that the top elevator cable appears to pass THROUGH the stab. Love it.):
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 08:42 AM
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For the wheels, don't you have some cut disks? What size are they? They should correspond to the side view.

charlie
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 08:54 AM
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Little Rock, AR USA
Joined Jan 2007
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Great find on the drawings and pics. You gotta put some spoke wheels on this one to add to the miles of rigging you'll have!

The prop in those drawings looks itty bitty to me, anyone else think it looks small? Maybe it's just me...

J. B.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by portablevcb View Post
For the wheels, don't you have some cut disks? What size are they? They should correspond to the side view.

charlie
Yep, I have them and they are built and painted, with rubber attached per your email guidance (thanks for that!) and they do correspond to the side view, which was how I figured out that the side view was the "right" size, at least in the sense that it matched up with the cut balsa.

While we're on this topic, I wonder if perhaps the short kit might include a foot of rubber, as in some places it's hard to locate. Or perhaps just note on the order page to add a foot to the order if the buyer doesn't have a local source. I know the stuff you carry is vastly superior to the round foam cord I have in my shop.
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Led Zepplin View Post
Great find on the drawings and pics. You gotta put some spoke wheels on this one to add to the miles of rigging you'll have!

The prop in those drawings looks itty bitty to me, anyone else think it looks small? Maybe it's just me...

J. B.
Ha! You're so right on that prop. I have actually already bench tested a 6" wood prop for this model (which STILL looked a bit bigger than the photos) and only pulled about 25 watts with 3 cells, so I'm now looking at cutting down another larger wood prop I have on hand in the hope of getting that up to something closer to 40 watts. Plan B is to buy a plastic E prop and paint it.

Charlie sent me one of his very cool laminated props, but I managed to sand it into oblivion. There appears to be a fine line between just the right amount of sanding and way too much. I crossed it. That's how we learn.

Last month "Flying Models" had a great/detailed article on DIY props. I'm tempted to have a go, as the homemade jigs themselves are sexy enough to make it worth the effort, not to mention the satisfaction of being able to say, "Yeah, I carved that."
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 11:26 PM
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Yeah, Vint's props are very thin when finished. I have gone through a few myself

We do put the cord in the short kits. Am sorry we didn't send some with this one. Oversight on our part.

charlie
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 11:55 PM
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Olympia, WA
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Originally Posted by portablevcb View Post
Yeah, Vint's props are very thin when finished. I have gone through a few myself

We do put the cord in the short kits. Am sorry we didn't send some with this one. Oversight on our part.

charlie
No worries at all Charlie. Looking at the photo above of my complete wheel, I wonder if maybe the 1/4" rubber might look a little puffier, and thus more scale? The obvious trade-off would be more tendency to roll from the rim. I'm willing to test it, after maiden of course.
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 12:03 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffboy View Post
Ha! You're so right on that prop. I have actually already bench tested a 6" wood prop for this model (which STILL looked a bit bigger than the photos) and only pulled about 25 watts with 3 cells, so I'm now looking at cutting down another larger wood prop I have on hand in the hope of getting that up to something closer to 40 watts. Plan B is to buy a plastic E prop and paint it.

Charlie sent me one of his very cool laminated props, but I managed to sand it into oblivion. There appears to be a fine line between just the right amount of sanding and way too much. I crossed it. That's how we learn.

Last month "Flying Models" had a great/detailed article on DIY props. I'm tempted to have a go, as the homemade jigs themselves are sexy enough to make it worth the effort, not to mention the satisfaction of being able to say, "Yeah, I carved that."
UPDATE: Mounted up a 7x4 APC prop tonight and got 43 watts at WOT pulling just a few amps on 3 cells. Clears the struts by about an inch, so will look NOTHING like the scale prop.

I think scale would have to be more like 4x4, if you believe the photos, so I'm actually starting to wonder if the prop in the photos is REALLY the prop that the 18hp motor running at 2,300 RPM turned, or if the renderings are maybe more accurate. The renderings are certainly closer to what I've got mounted up, but then what the hell was Mr. W doing with that toy prop on The Rooster for the photo shoot? We may never know.

This is where the real prop and power systems experts should jump in and edufy my ignorant self.

Off to a big RC expo tomorrow with three buddies from the club. Wonder what I'll drag home?
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 03:12 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Although the Kogutek I has a quirky charm, all of its' own, the Kogutek IIa was really rather pretty. I recently received this drawing, which provides food for thought.

Pete
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 11:47 AM
I eat glue
Canada, NS, Yarmouth
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Oh yeah Pete! Make it 54" span and send it to me!!!!!!
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 06:56 PM
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That is a nice one Pete.
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 09:08 PM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Although the Kogutek I has a quirky charm, all of its' own, the Kogutek IIa was really rather pretty. I recently received this drawing, which provides food for thought.

Pete
Sexy right down to the wheel pants!
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 01:48 PM
Pencil grip
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Olympia, WA
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Control Horn Holes?

Hey Pete, all of my control horns are only drilled at one end, but they appear to be designed for pull-pull, which would suggest the need for a hole at both ends. Enter my pin vise.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 05:33 PM
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Norfolk, England
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They have two holes on my cut file. It has been known to happen in the past and no doubt Charlie will correct it on his actual cutting file. IIRC, it's a differing systems issue. I use TCAD and sometimes circles, or stretched circles, either don't show up, or change shape, on other systems. I've also seen arcs come out as a series of straight lines on pdf conversions, where another system is used to open the drawing. That doesn't happen now I generate my own pdf files.

Pete
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