Originally Posted by caprini83

What did you mean when you said you put a cap on your radio ? Thanks for all the links, looks like my Neptune will be getting some upgrades

That wasen't me it was Hemiblas. No prablem

I try to add one of these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Protector.html
or these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...3uf_3sec_.html

to the radio receiver if I think the bec in my esc is going to be pushed to its limits. Ok, basically this means that any esc that is not a castle ice 100 (that has a 5 amp bec), I put one of those capacitors on. they really work. With 2 digital servos on a turnigy plush, the servos will pull too much current and the bec overheats and shuts down, which cuts power to your receiver. Once you stop moving the servos the receiver will re-initialize and you would never know you had a problem. The capacitor will store energy and if the servos are pulling too much the capacitor discharges, when the servos are not being used the capacitor charges waiting for the next heavy load to supply needed current. On my cheap esc's it keeps me from losing control of my airplanes mid flight. Some receivers take 1 second to re-initialize, others take longer.
The 3 second capacitor is great for a plane with retracts or other heavy loads that could put more stress on your bec.

I'm thinking on your plane, when you run the speed controller for a while it gets hot. The bec and the speed controller are on the same board so if one gets hot the other gets hot. When the bec gets hot it is not as effective and just using the servos will make it hotter and the bec will go into thermal shutdown and you lose power to your radio. The caps will put less stress on your bec so it stays cooler over the length of the entire flight, but also supply that needed current if the servo is pulling to much current because you are going really fast and turning and the servo has too much stress.
I hope this makes sense.

Originally Posted by BAMA1

My buddy flew his neotune with a 4s,short burst's of speed ONLY or (like him) you
will burn the motor up. Im running a 4300 allum aloy 4s motor with stock servos with a 2650 4s batt and about 97 mph. The esc is mounted outside to help keep cool and for space reasons. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVGVweEIaK0.

I'm up at 6000' so edf's are not pulling as much air or as many amps as someone at sea level. I feel good about a 4S setup where I fly, but yeah someone at sea level running at 4S could see some pretty high currents which could fry the motor.

Originally Posted by hemiblas

I try to add one of these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Protector.html
or these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...3uf_3sec_.html

to the radio receiver if I think the bec in my esc is going to be pushed to its limits. Ok, basically this means that any esc that is not a castle ice 100 (that has a 5 amp bec), I put one of those capacitors on. they really work. With 2 digital servos on a turnigy plush, the servos will pull too much current and the bec overheats and shuts down, which cuts power to your receiver. Once you stop moving the servos the receiver will re-initialize and you would never know you had a problem. The capacitor will store energy and if the servos are pulling too much the capacitor discharges, when the servos are not being used the capacitor charges waiting for the next heavy load to supply needed current. On my cheap esc's it keeps me from losing control of my airplanes mid flight. Some receivers take 1 second to re-initialize, others take longer.
The 3 second capacitor is great for a plane with retracts or other heavy loads that could put more stress on your bec.

I'm thinking on your plane, when you run the speed controller for a while it gets hot. The bec and the speed controller are on the same board so if one gets hot the other gets hot. When the bec gets hot it is not as effective and just using the servos will make it hotter and the bec will go into thermal shutdown and you lose power to your radio. The caps will put less stress on your bec so it stays cooler over the length of the entire flight, but also supply that needed current if the servo is pulling to much current because you are going really fast and turning and the servo has too much stress.
I hope this makes sense.

Okay cool. I will give it a try, when my brown out happened I didn't get any controls back until I unplugged and plugged the battery right back in .I had to would probably 200ft or so To get my plane

Or if not try a new esc. It could be it is overheating as the fan pulls lots of amps from what everyone is saying. I try to buy castle esc whenever I can as they seem to be the most solid from my experience.

Originally Posted by hemiblas

Or if not try a new esc. It could be it is overheating as the fan pulls lots of amps from what everyone is saying. I try to buy castle esc whenever I can as they seem to be the most solid from my experience.

I have heard the good and bad about those, but as we all know nothing is perfect. I just purchased a Turnigy dlux 40A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller w/Data Logging esc for my rad jet, if I like it I will buy one for the Neptune as well.
I'm thinking I might want to replace my receivers as well after reading some threads about the Spektrum Ar6100e as that's what I'm running in all my aircraft's right now and going with full range receivers like the AR600 or AR500

Some of you are talking about the sonic 64 from Hobby King, they have the PNF only for 113$
NitroPlanes has the kit w/motor for 66$ ARF is 95$.

This is what I did to the bottom of my plane. Makes it legal for jet rallies. The legallity is being able to use the runway like a normal plane would. It flies like any other jet, which is OK.

Originally Posted by Bob Reynolds

This is what I did to the bottom of my plane. Makes it legal for jet rallies. The legallity is being able to use the runway like a normal plane would. It flies like any other jet, which is OK.

I was thinging about doing that. I have the same color tape covering my motor wires

Originally Posted by Bob Reynolds

This is what I did to the bottom of my plane. Makes it legal for jet rallies. The legallity is being able to use the runway like a normal plane would. It flies like any other jet, which is OK.

How does it fly with the gear on? I was thinking of modding mine with rudders, using small wheels on the bottom of the rudders, and mounting a stryker wheel in the front.

After a few flights I just felt like painting the Neptune and give it some new looks. Didn't know what to do at first but a friend gave me the idea to do a 'Horten' inpired paint scheme. I got a little carried away, put some stickers on it, but I still like it, and it looks awesome flying, the chrome underside in special.
Tell me what you guys think about the paint.

I have one question though: I've noticed my both ailerons are slighty warped on the outer side. When they are flush on the most inner part, the most outer tips stay elevated as if i had two or three clicks elevator up on them (I think you ca make it ou on the pictures). I don't remember if this was already like that when I flew it (yeah, i know), so can anyone tell me if this is normal? And if not, will it change my flight characteristics? I havent had time to fly it since I saw that 'problem'.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

thanks!

Alex

Never flew it without the gear, so I have nothing to compare it too. I don't see the gear holding it back at all. Short takeoff roll and comes in just a little nose high for slow landings.

Warbirdzzz, I like it! Now it needs the canopy mod, and it'll look real . Bob, like the idea, mebbe do something similar, but I'm just stuck on retracts.....

Originally Posted by warbirdzzz

After a few flights I just felt like painting the Neptune and give it some new looks. Didn't know what to do at first but a friend gave me the idea to do a 'Horten' inpired paint scheme. I got a little carried away, put some stickers on it, but I still like it, and it looks awesome flying, the chrome underside in special.
Tell me what you guys think about the paint.

I have one question though: I've noticed my both ailerons are slighty warped on the outer side. When they are flush on the most inner part, the most outer tips stay elevated as if i had two or three clicks elevator up on them (I think you ca make it ou on the pictures). I don't remember if this was already like that when I flew it (yeah, i know), so can anyone tell me if this is normal? And if not, will it change my flight characteristics? I havent had time to fly it since I saw that 'problem'.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

thanks!

Alex

That looks awesome

What type of connector comes with the Neptune...XT60 or Deans (T-Plug)?

Thanks,
-mike-