Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Try that with a stiff CF bird.

Try 200mph with a RP!

OK,
This is what I've done so far:

• ESC brake set on soft braking - check (it was already set like that)

• All control surfaces neutral - check.
• Camber and Reflex progammed - check (flaps and aileron movement = 1 trailing edge thickness)
• Crow programmed

.

With 1800Mah battery the CG is at 77mm. (no weight added anywhere)

The whole tail section is very flexible, so I think I should do at least the arrow and CF stiffening mods before flying again, but I'll not touch the Horizontal Stab incidence for now.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Danny

Originally Posted by Danny_l

OK,
This is what I've done so far:

• ESC brake set on soft braking - check (it was already set like that)

• All control surfaces neutral - check.
• Camber and Reflex progammed - check (flaps and aileron movement = 1 trailing edge thickness)
• Crow programmed

.

With 1800Mah battery the CG is at 77mm. (no weight added anywhere)

The whole tail section is very flexible, so I think I should do at least the arrow and CF stiffening mods before flying again, but I'll not touch the Horizontal Stab incidence for now.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Danny

Not necessary. IMHO you should go out and see if you can resolve the gliding issues that I think you said was your big dissapoinment. Stiffening the fuse really won't change that.

Originally Posted by Danny_l

With 1800Mah battery the CG is at 77mm. (no weight added anywhere)

I am amazed that you could get it to balance at that location with an 1800 battery and no weight on the tail. I tried an 1800 once and the plane definitely moved faster and came down faster. I wouldn't want to use a battery that size unless it was really windy. If you can get your hands on a 1300 it will flatten the glide ratio and float much better. On mine, I had to set it to a hard brake to keep the prop from windmilling.

The next step is to set all surfaces to neutral and take it out on a calm day. Don't worry about what it does when under power, but just adjust the elevator trim so that it glides hands-free without porpoising. Doing the mods will make the controls more responsive, but they will not help with the high sink rate that you have been experiencing with the big battery.

Jumpy...
Yes it goes in where the FG was. You have to remove that FG "stiffener" and hold it in your hand to truly realize how useless it is. Then compare that to the arrow shaft, widen the slot to fit the arrow, glue and enjoy. I was tempted to remove the other 2, but the plane is nose-heavy anyway, so I left them there.

Originally Posted by Danny_l

OK,
This is what I've done so far:

• ESC brake set on soft braking - check (it was already set like that)

• All control surfaces neutral - check.
• Camber and Reflex progammed - check (flaps and aileron movement = 1 trailing edge thickness)
• Crow programmed

.

With 1800Mah battery the CG is at 77mm. (no weight added anywhere)

The whole tail section is very flexible, so I think I should do at least the arrow and CF stiffening mods before flying again, but I'll not touch the Horizontal Stab incidence for now.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Danny

Don't worry about it, it's not a 'must do' mod. Some people are over anxious with the fact that foam flexes.. The RP's natural state is to glide around as slowly as it can, without abrupt control inputs, occasionally darting off in a straight line towards areas of suspected lift.

Hi,
thanks for the responses.
Well, I'll leave it all as is and try it.

The upside of using arrows for stiffeners is that both my son and my wife are into archery so I have a steady supply of arrows that are no longer useful due to small cracks etc.

I'll also see if I can scrounge a smaller battery.

Brgds,

Danny

I get a great deal of pleasure out of making things work a little better than they did out of the box. It is a simple matter of receiving a reward for some extra effort expended. I don't consider that to be an obsession. As the owners of these planes, we should feel free to modify or not modify them according to our personal desires, and not be judged by others for doing so.

...

Originally Posted by Jovanx

The next step is to set all surfaces to neutral and take it out on a calm day. Don't worry about what it does when under power, but just adjust the elevator trim so that it glides hands-free without porpoising.

Adjusting elevator trim is ok as an interim fix but ultimately you should be flying with a neutral elevator, so shift the CG as needed to achieve the best glide. Some argue that "a little" elevator trim does not cause significant drag or other problem but i is a sloppy solution.

Originally Posted by Jovanx

I am amazed that you could get it to balance at that location with an 1800 battery and no weight on the tail. I tried an 1800 once and the plane definitely moved faster and came down faster.

.

Me too! I With an 1800 I am guessing I would be around 82mm, but that is with stiffening mods and 1 oz. of lead on the tail!

Originally Posted by kaptondave

Adjusting elevator trim is ok as an interim fix but ultimately you should be flying with a neutral elevator, so shift the CG as needed to achieve the best glide. Some argue that "a little" elevator trim does not cause significant drag or other problem but i is a sloppy solution.

What you say is true for sure. My instructions were just the first step in the process, to see if it would glide without porpoising. The next step is to move the CG so the trim is no longer necessary.

Attention all new Radian Pro buyers and those considering buying a Radian Pro.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL

Many have said this in bits and pieces so let me consolidate. The RP, as a thermal duration glider, flies very well straight out of the box. No mods are required. A little adjustment of the CG toward the rear is highly recommended, but other than that, all mods are optional.

This is like a Ford Taurus. Comes off the showroom floor and drives you everywhere reliably every day. Now, if you want a little better handling you might switch to the super stickey X1000 tires. And if you want a little more pop coming from those red lights, just add the Whamo engine booster. And to anchor it better, put in the super slamo brake shoes. Now if you want a little better steering, swap out the steering rack for the Zapo steering rack and the difference will blow you away. And, if you pull that motor and drop in a Super screamer V8, well, now you have a car you can proudly drive to the super market.

Or you can drive it off the lot and enjoy it for 100,00 miles with regular maintenance.

The Radian Pro is the same. You do not NEED to modify anything except, perhaps, move the CG back a bit as part of your tuning process. But if you fly the stock Radian Pro, as a thermal duration glider, with the recommended 1300 mah battery or one of comparable size and shape, you are good to go.

If you just like to modify things, there are lots of suggestions in this thread. But they are not required.


ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL! THE RADIAN PRO FLIES FINE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX.

This has been brought to you as a public service announcement by the association to stop the confusion.

Originally Posted by aeajr

Attention all new Radian Pro buyers and those considering buying a Radian Pro.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL

Many have said this in bits and pieces so let me consolidate. The RP flies very well straight out of the box. No mods are required. A little adjustment of the CG toward the rear is highly recommended, but other than that, all mods are optional.

This is like a Ford Taurus. Comes off the showroom floor and drives you everywhere reliably every day. Now, if you want a little better handling you might switch to the super stickey X1000 tires. And if you want a little more pop coming from those red lights, just add the Whamo engine booster. And to anchor it better, put in the super slamo brake shoes. Now if you want a little better steering, swap out the steering rack for the Zapo steering rack and the difference will blow you away. And, if you pull that motor and drop in a Super screamer V8, well, now you have a car you can proudly drive to the super market.

Or you can drive it off the lot and enjoy it for 100,00 miles with regular maintenance.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL! THE RADIAN PRO FLIES FINE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX.

This has been brought to you as a public service announcement by the association to stop the confusion.

I couldn't have said it better myself. And with that I will go back to work.

Originally Posted by aeajr

Attention all new Radian Pro buyers and those considering buying a Radian Pro.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL

Many have said this in bits and pieces so let me consolidate. The RP flies very well straight out of the box. No mods are required. A little adjustment of the CG toward the rear is highly recommended, but other than that, all mods are optional.

This is like a Ford Taurus. Comes off the showroom floor and drives you everywhere reliably every day. Now, if you want a little better handling you might switch to the super stickey X1000 tires. And if you want a little more pop coming from those red lights, just add the Whamo engine booster. And to anchor it better, put in the super slamo brake shoes. Now if you want a little better steering, swap out the steering rack for the Zapo steering rack and the difference will blow you away. And, if you pull that motor and drop in a Super screamer V8, well, now you have a car you can proudly drive to the super market.

Or you can drive it off the lot and enjoy it for 100,00 miles with regular maintenance.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL! THE RADIAN PRO FLIES FINE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX.

This has been brought to you as a public service announcement by the association to stop the confusion.

Absolutely. This should be printed and framed.

Chris

Originally Posted by aeajr

Attention all new Radian Pro buyers and those considering buying a Radian Pro.

ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL

Many have said this in bits and pieces so let me consolidate. The RP flies very well straight out of the box. No mods are required. A little adjustment of the CG toward the rear is highly recommended, but other than that, all mods are optional.

This is like a Ford Taurus. Comes off the showroom floor and drives you everywhere reliably every day. Now, if you want a little better handling you might switch to the super stickey X1000 tires. And if you want a little more pop coming from those red lights, just add the Whamo engine booster. And to anchor it better, put in the super slamo brake shoes. Now if you want a little better steering, swap out the steering rack for the Zapo steering rack and the difference will blow you away. And, if you pull that motor and drop in a Super screamer V8, well, now you have a car you can proudly drive to the super market.

Or you can drive it off the lot and enjoy it for 100,00 miles with regular maintenance.

The Radian Pro is the same. You do not NEED to modify anything except, perhaps, move the CG back a bit as part of your tuning process. But if you fly the stock radian pro with the recommended 1300 mah battery or one of comparable size and shape, you are good to go.

If you just like to modify things, there are lots of suggestions in this thread. But they are not required.


ALL MODIFICATIONS ARE OPTIONAL! THE RADIAN PRO FLIES FINE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX.

This has been brought to you as a public service announcement by the association to stop the confusion.

Wish I had thought to do that!