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Old Feb 22, 2013, 05:41 AM
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Australia, NSW, Springwood
Joined Dec 2012
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Hobbyking Bixler V 1.1

Hi, I noticed there wasn't much specific info about the Bixler 1.1, which is dfferent from both the original Bixler as well as Bixler 2.
Hobbyking's listing details the following:

Our v1.1 features relocated elevator and rudder servos, now closer to the tail and accessible via a magnetic hatch on the underside of the fuselage. Why? you may ask - This allows much more usable space inside the front section of the fuselage, something that FPV'ers are going to thank us for! We have also updated the included hardware to include better quality components, such as the new 4 bolt control horns on all surfaces. We also include 2 different propellers, one for high speed and the other for carrying heavier payloads.
You - our customers spoke, we listened! The end result is the Bixler V1.1!

Specs:
Material: EPO Foam
Wingspan: 1400mm
Length: 925mm
Wing Area: 26dm2
Wing Loading: 25g/dm2
Flying Weight: 650g
Motor: 2620-1900kv Brushless Outrunner (Required)
ESC: 20A w/BEC (Required)
Servo: 4 x 9g (Required)



As promised, there is a cavernous space - the first 14" of unobstructed fuselage. Not even the wing bolts now run through the fuse, as these bolt in from the top!

While it may not have quite as much lift as the Bix2's 10cm wider wings, its proportions are better, its frame and wings a little more rigid, its control surfaces and linkages free of slop, and flying weight about 120gm less.

I've really enjoyed building and flying this plane, both without FPV kit (where it can out-thermal an AXN and is just as maneuverable, and now with simple FPV and OSD gear and around 3150mah of batteries, it still floats great, lands slow, and gives me 30-40 minute FPV flights (mix of gliding and low power cruising).

So my positives (over the Bix2):
> Unobstructed fuselage and good servo placement with rods running internally
> Shorter nose (less likely to get nose in your video frame with wide angle lens)
> No need to cut additional access hatch to access available space
> More rigid than Bix2 in wing and body; handles more precisely than Bix2
> Better horns and clevises, no slop whatsoever in my build
> 1400mm wings just fit across the back seat of my car, unlike the Bix 2

A few minor negatives:
> No immediate way to mount ESC above wing - you have to cut your own wiring channels into the foam before gluing halves together
> Limited access to inside of tail boom - need to sort your wiring needs out before gluing kit body together.
> Didn't come with Y-lead for ailerons (also doesn't come with glue)
> Getting wing bolt holes to all line up first time is a royal PITA...
> no airflow in the fuse at all - though easy enough to make your own
> Limited to 6" prop with stock motor mount
> Canopy is weaker than Bix2 so not as suitable to mod for FPV cam (you can use a Bix2 canopy)

I like this plane! It flies the nicest so far of the four gliders I've owned. :-)
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Last edited by ZaksterBlue; Feb 22, 2013 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 05:44 AM
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Australia, NSW, Springwood
Joined Dec 2012
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Bixler 1.1 with FPV - quick intro video

As a follow-up to my first post, I've whipped up an intro video. Basically covers everything I've written in my first post here and also shows the simple FPV setup I've put on mine for now.

As per the video, I've used a Bix2 spare canopy for my FPV VTX and will later mount my 600TVL Sony cam to it with a panning servo.

Intro to the Bixler 1.1 for FPV (mini review, comparison to Bixler 2) (11 min 52 sec)
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 06:56 PM
USA: LakeGeorge, New York
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Awesome Review on the v1.1 !!!!!


I'm getting one over the B2 :-)
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 03:12 AM
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Australia, NSW, Springwood
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclab1 View Post
Awesome Review on the v1.1 !!!!!


I'm getting one over the B2 :-)
Thanks, I'm glad it helped you make a decision. The B2 has its place and generates more lift from the 1500mm wings... it just takes a lot of modding to make it rigid enough to enjoy. (The B2 wings will probably fit on the B1.1 if you need the extra lift, but you'd have to stiffen them, especially if using a fast motor.)
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 09:20 AM
USA: LakeGeorge, New York
USA
Joined May 2010
4,076 Posts
Do you have a LINK to the some Higher Quality motors (any) that is a direct fit to the included (popsicle stick) motor mount that comes with the v1.1 ?
(price not an issue)....

Im not planning on getting the CNC aluminum motor mount.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 12:25 AM
Flying Zayin
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China, Guangdong, Guangzhou
Joined May 2012
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Hi Zak, here is one more thing - the airflow through the fuse is a good thing, but please remember that the air exit MUST be about three time as big as the intake. Otherwise you will have an airbrake instead of a cooling system.
Actually this is why I haven't made it on my plane yet: can't figure out a good location for a rather big exit without reducing rigidity of the frame.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 04:44 AM
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Australia, NSW, Springwood
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclab1 View Post
Do you have a LINK to the some Higher Quality motors (any) that is a direct fit to the included (popsicle stick) motor mount that comes with the v1.1 ?
(price not an issue)....

Im not planning on getting the CNC aluminum motor mount.
Hi, the popular 'upgrade' motor is the Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv motor:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12919

This only JUST fits into the cavity without rubbing and is a pretty speedy motor that will require you to be sensible with your throttle (ie. don't go full power in a shallow dive then go into a high-G turn that will stress out the plane lots)... unless you reinforce the wing significantly. On the Bix2 using a TGS 6x4, this motor at full speed in a straight line would start the wings flapping!
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cathay Stray View Post
Hi Zak, here is one more thing - the airflow through the fuse is a good thing, but please remember that the air exit MUST be about three time as big as the intake. Otherwise you will have an airbrake instead of a cooling system.
Actually this is why I haven't made it on my plane yet: can't figure out a good location for a rather big exit without reducing rigidity of the frame.
I hadn't considered the air brake aspect, thanks very much for pointing that out! On the Bix 2 build, I had cut some vents in under the motor, but I didn't want to do that with this one.... a bit of a dilemma...
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 06:33 AM
Flying Zayin
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China, Guangdong, Guangzhou
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by ZaksterBlue View Post
under the motor
What I was considering is a diagonally cut piece of a plastic pipe hot glued into an oval opening somewhere down the tailboom.
Hard plastic will as I think compensate enough for any rigidity loss, as long as it is glued in properly.
Now looking through my friends' garages for a proper pipe with walls not too thick.

(I'm Flying Zayin at youtube, btw. No, this is NOT a hint to subscribe to my channel as anyway I am not uploading anything, just letting you know)
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 06:41 AM
USA: LakeGeorge, New York
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Joined May 2010
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Zak,
I will use that motor you LINK'd up above!

p.s.
is that same motor as the Park Jet v3 motor from Grayson Hobbies?
I saw a motor from innov8tion (website) before and I cant find those 2200kv+ motors anymore....
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 06:55 AM
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Australia, NSW, Springwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclab1 View Post
Zak,
I will use that motor you LINK'd up above!

p.s.
is that same motor as the Park Jet v3 motor from Grayson Hobbies?
I saw a motor from innov8tion (website) before and I cant find those 2200kv+ motors anymore....
Not sure about the Park Jet sorry... keep in mind this motor is rated to 34A and recommends a 40A ESC.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 06:57 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathay Stray View Post
What I was considering is a diagonally cut piece of a plastic pipe hot glued into an oval opening somewhere down the tailboom.
Hard plastic will as I think compensate enough for any rigidity loss, as long as it is glued in properly.
Now looking through my friends' garages for a proper pipe with walls not too thick.

(I'm Flying Zayin at youtube, btw. No, this is NOT a hint to subscribe to my channel as anyway I am not uploading anything, just letting you know)
:-) I saw someone's airscoop and outlet mod for the Bix 2 using a single takeaway plastic soup spoon cut diagonally in half and the handle cut off. But this would not retain rigidity once you'd cut a large outlet like your tube idea. Let us know how you go!
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 04:05 PM
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United Kingdom, Northern Ireland, Belfast
Joined Jan 2013
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After 16 or so flights across two weekends I must say I am loving the 1.1. So easy to fly, even after 15 years or more since my last time up in the air with an old i/c 40 bash box I used to fly with my Futaba 5ch 72mHz gear.

The glide performance is excellent, and 9 minute flights at full throttle with a 2200mAh nanotech leaves my cells at a comfortable 40% charge level, if I zip up high and glide around until I lose altitude and zip up again and again I can go for nearly 20 mins with the same level of charge at the end of the flight.

While the Bixler is not a pattern ship or aerobatic plane by any stretch, I am still able to throw it around wildly with max throws and not stress it at all... The only extra carbon rods added were on each side of the fuz. The wings, tail and stab are all stock.

Loving it!
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 09:49 PM
Montrose CO
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United States, CO, Montrose
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclab1 View Post
Zak,
I will use that motor you LINK'd up above!

p.s.
is that same motor as the Park Jet v3 motor from Grayson Hobbies?
I saw a motor from innov8tion (website) before and I cant find those 2200kv+ motors anymore....
If you are talking about the Micro Jet V3, the HK 2826/6 is much faster than the V3. I just replaced a V3 on my B2 and I'd guess the V3 was twice as powerful as the stock motor and the 2826/6 has twice the power of the V3. I love the V3 on park jets but the Bix is just too big.
FYI...
Be sure to get a good ESC for the 2826 because I measured the watts on several ESCs I had and the HK Plush 40 amp was 20-40% better than the 50 amp Grayson and a 60 amp Fli-power. Noticeably quicker take-off.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:15 AM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
Joined Oct 2011
896 Posts
What is not mentioned on this thread and is mentioned in the other Bixler V1 thread that now includes the V1.1 are the "problems".

Wing bolts too short - should be 70 mm long or at least the aft one should be. We're now using threaded rod with a nut soldered on 10 mm down from the top. This allows easy removal of the bolt by grasping the piece above the nut. Cut rod to 80 mm long.

Elevator pushrod too long - use a linkage stopper. If you cut the pushrod there won't be any thread left for the clevis. The rod goes out way past the horn.

I've worked on three V1.1s recently so have found those problem on all 3.

Not problems -

The horns have 4 holes and only 2 screws per horn are supplied. This is enough.

The motor mount - suggest not gluing it but using 2 screws and making a wooden outside washer/plate for the heads of the screws to press against below the motor.

Motor cowl - fit a magnet and allow easy removal.
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