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Old Jul 14, 2012, 02:53 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2007
758 Posts
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Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
If that is accurate (which I believe it is), then it looks like the standoff on top of the board makes it impossible connect this properly with enough room. No wonder he plugged it in the wrong way around.

On mine, I desoldered the wires from the buzzer and I soldered female connectors directly onto the it. Works just fine.

Best,
Chris
Vary true what you are saying but all he needs to do is to remove the not used end of the connector with side cutters, job done.

Added fix to post 763

Barry
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Last edited by Flying Barry; Jul 14, 2012 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Added fix to post
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 03:23 PM
Registered User
Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2007
758 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiloschista View Post
Hi,
at third attempt I reached almost satisfactory settings.
You can have a look here :

http://youtu.be/s6_uRds1KDA

The quad is a HK wood frame equipped with KK2 stabilization board.
Motors : 28-26A-1200.
ESCs : Superbrain 20A
Propellers 9x4.7
Total weight 1070g.

Take off in manual mode.
From half video autolevel mode.

Gains PI :
roll/pitch P=30, PLimit=25, I=15, ILimit=10
yaw P=80, PLimit=20, I=50, ILimit=10

Autolevel :
P=50, PLimit=50, I=0, ILimit=0

Stick scaling:
Roll=30, Pitch=36, Yaw=50, Throttle=90

Height dampening :
Dampening=0, Limit=30

N.b. : when I tried to insert an I value for autolevel it flipped, I reset it then at zero (?!)

Could I have it better ?
Comments and suggestions are welcome

Ric
It looks like your vid did not upload completly on Youtube only runs for 0.17 sec then stops.

Barry
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 03:27 PM
T.ing to put on air 100 models
chiloschista's Avatar
Switzerland
Joined Feb 2008
655 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Barry View Post
It looks like your vid did not upload completly on Youtube only runs for 0.17 sec then stops.

Barry
Sorry for the inconvenience, but I checked it and it works flawlessly for me

Ric
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Joined Dec 2006
6 Posts
My KK2 is dead!!
I was installing it on a new frame.. everything OK it seemed. Done receiver check no prob.. turned off.
Powered on again.. all OK.. gave throttle.. something rattled and I shut it off immediately.
Only thing I can think of is that it made a short somehow with my aluminum fixing screw
Is there any hope I can get it working again?
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 04:43 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Jan 2007
758 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edje View Post
My KK2 is dead!!
I was installing it on a new frame.. everything OK it seemed. Done receiver check no prob.. turned off.
Powered on again.. all OK.. gave throttle.. something rattled and I shut it off immediately.
Only thing I can think of is that it made a short somehow with my aluminum fixing screw
Is there any hope I can get it working again?
Try this first, remove the KK2 board from the quad frame and remove all the wires connect to the board. Connect only one ECS by itself to motor 1 connection on the board then power up the ECS to see if the KK2 board is still working. Let use know the results.

Barry
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Last edited by Flying Barry; Jul 14, 2012 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 06:54 PM
Enjoying the sunshine
HappySundays's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
2,955 Posts
Hi people,

I have been working clodely with the KK2 while writing new software for OpenAero and I have just come across something that I need some help with wrapping my head around...

From the manual, "With many servos, for example airplane stabilization, there may be necessary with an extra BEC. Do not use multiple switched BECs."

The reason is this:
For the motor outputs, the +5V signal of M2 to M8 are connected together, but not to anything else. M1 is connected to the +5V of the five RC inputs. This all then goes through a simple filter to power the board.

Now, for a model with ESCs and motors, you'd likely have ESCs plugged into M1 to M4 which would mean that all ESCs, the board, and the RX would have power.

But what about designs with NO ESCs? Designs with all servos?
This includes most aeroplane stabilising types (motor goes direct from RX) and all camera stabilisation designs.

The problem is this:
If you power the board via a battery or BESC etc from the RX side, only M1 will have power.
If you power the board via M1, the same thing happens of course and...
If you power the board via M2 to M8, neither board, RX or M1 will have power.

It's very messy. Is there any reason we can't just short M1 and M2 +5V underneath the board so all input and output +5V are connected?
It's a shame as some might find that difficult.

I just can't think of a neat way of wiring this up that doesn't involve multiple BESCs... surely that's a bit crazy?
If using CPPM mode you could put a cable between an unused RX input and an unused servo output but with PWM all inputs are used and you may wish to use all outputs meaning you'd need a custom linking cable. Again messy and confusing for the noobs.

Any elegant solutions out there?
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 07:44 PM
Dreamer
Australia, TAS, Memana
Joined Aug 2004
2,202 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Hi people,

I have been working clodely with the KK2 while writing new software for OpenAero and I have just come across something that I need some help with wrapping my head around...

From the manual, "With many servos, for example airplane stabilization, there may be necessary with an extra BEC. Do not use multiple switched BECs."

The reason is this:
For the motor outputs, the +5V signal of M2 to M8 are connected together, but not to anything else. M1 is connected to the +5V of the five RC inputs. This all then goes through a simple filter to power the board.

Now, for a model with ESCs and motors, you'd likely have ESCs plugged into M1 to M4 which would mean that all ESCs, the board, and the RX would have power.

But what about designs with NO ESCs? Designs with all servos?
This includes most aeroplane stabilising types (motor goes direct from RX) and all camera stabilisation designs.

The problem is this:
If you power the board via a battery or BESC etc from the RX side, only M1 will have power.
If you power the board via M1, the same thing happens of course and...
If you power the board via M2 to M8, neither board, RX or M1 will have power.

It's very messy. Is there any reason we can't just short M1 and M2 +5V underneath the board so all input and output +5V are connected?
It's a shame as some might find that difficult.

I just can't think of a neat way of wiring this up that doesn't involve multiple BESCs... surely that's a bit crazy?
If using CPPM mode you could put a cable between an unused RX input and an unused servo output but with PWM all inputs are used and you may wish to use all outputs meaning you'd need a custom linking cable. Again messy and confusing for the noobs.

Any elegant solutions out there?
Would it be logical to use full leads from receiver the flight board. UBEC could then power the receiver through an unused channel, or into a Y lead into any channel. The flight board could then be powered through all channels into the FC by the one UBec.
CPPM is a little more tricky ... or as you say ..link between an unused Rx channel and an unused servo output on the FC .
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 07:48 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by kaz1104 View Post
Would it be logical to use full leads from receiver the flight board. UBEC could then power the receiver through an unused channel, or into a Y lead into any channel. The flight board could then be powered through all channels into the FC by the one UBec
Then you'd still need to power the servos 2 thru 8.

IF you were to use all channels on the rx and all outputs on the KK2, I think you'd have to use a Y lead from the BEC into another Y lead to one of the rx outputs, then from the second Y lead from the BEC another Y into one of the servos. All in all, 3 Y leads, lol.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 07:51 PM
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VA
Joined Nov 2009
2,642 Posts
I always recommend for multirotors that they use a seperate bec for the servos but for your fixed wing application I can see your point. I'm cheap so I would just cut an extension in two and add an extra plug for M2-M8 whichever isn't being used. I was curious to see when I get mine if the same type lpf was used in the main +5v line to the mcu as on original.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 07:56 PM
What goes up...
acuralegendz's Avatar
United States, NJ, Cherry Hill
Joined Feb 2012
1,023 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallyfingers View Post
I would like to use my new KK2 controller on a used DJI 450 frame with stock motors and DJI 30 amp ESC's. Do I have to add a BEC or can I just use the ESC by themselves ???
As far as I know the dji escs will not power the board am you will need a bec.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
795 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Hi people,

I have been working clodely with the KK2 while writing new software for OpenAero and I have just come across something that I need some help with wrapping my head around...

From the manual, "With many servos, for example airplane stabilization, there may be necessary with an extra BEC. Do not use multiple switched BECs."

The reason is this:
For the motor outputs, the +5V signal of M2 to M8 are connected together, but not to anything else. M1 is connected to the +5V of the five RC inputs. This all then goes through a simple filter to power the board.

Now, for a model with ESCs and motors, you'd likely have ESCs plugged into M1 to M4 which would mean that all ESCs, the board, and the RX would have power.

But what about designs with NO ESCs? Designs with all servos?
This includes most aeroplane stabilising types (motor goes direct from RX) and all camera stabilisation designs.

The problem is this:
If you power the board via a battery or BESC etc from the RX side, only M1 will have power.
If you power the board via M1, the same thing happens of course and...
If you power the board via M2 to M8, neither board, RX or M1 will have power.

It's very messy. Is there any reason we can't just short M1 and M2 +5V underneath the board so all input and output +5V are connected?
It's a shame as some might find that difficult.

I just can't think of a neat way of wiring this up that doesn't involve multiple BESCs... surely that's a bit crazy?
If using CPPM mode you could put a cable between an unused RX input and an unused servo output but with PWM all inputs are used and you may wish to use all outputs meaning you'd need a custom linking cable. Again messy and confusing for the noobs.

Any elegant solutions out there?
This must be why my servos arent responding. Somebody with more than one KK2 board should try shorting the M1 and M2 pins.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,517 Posts
Good point HS, yeah no super easy way; either a custom harness or a blue wire job. Kk2.2 should have a jumper to link the power circuits.

Kev

[edit: I attached an image of the required power harness. It would be immensely helpful to newbs if HK carried them. Experts will know how to solder from the back (blue wire). I'm sure a picture showing how it's done will pop up soon. ]
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:37 PM
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Grain Valley, MO
Joined Aug 2007
172 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by acuralegendz View Post
As far as I know the dji escs will not power the board am you will need a bec.
Does that mean that I would have to hook up the BEC to the M-1 connector from the ESC, removing the red wire from that M-1 ESC? I know the NAZA controller had the BEC/Power Monitor that had it's own connector, it does sound like the DJI ESC's have no BEC.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:46 PM
Enjoying the sunshine
HappySundays's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
2,955 Posts
Update:
I just shorted the +5V of M1 to the +5V on M2 and it becomes like any other FC.
I'll do it for now for convenience but that doesn't help noobs with no soldering experience...
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 10:03 PM
Fly now crash later
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Canada, ON, Newmarket
Joined Nov 2006
2,248 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Barry View Post
Just looking at the picture of your board setup and I have noticed your buzzer is connected around the wrong way. The red wire + goes to the pin that is next to the board mounting hole see below picture if this helps. All you need to do to fix this is to remove the not used end of the connector with side cutters, job done.

Barry
Thanks, i will fix that. I flipped it today and broke one of the props. We started are vacation up at our trailer and i didn't bring any spare props.
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