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Old Nov 06, 2013, 07:17 AM
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Redbiscuits's Avatar
United States, TX, Cedar Creek
Joined Nov 2011
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Outstanding!
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 07:49 AM
Jack of all master of none
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Baltimore MD USA
Joined Jan 2011
4,151 Posts
VERY NICE WORK !!


Bruce
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 03:52 PM
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jun 2006
2,937 Posts
That cockpit kit is outstanding... Don't have one for a 1/5th Fw190D9 do you Chad?
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 05:08 PM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Another full day in today. I got the oil cooler doors in and hooked up.
The air system is in, valve, servo, hoses. The steering servo is in and the pull pull to the tail wheel is in, gear doors hooked up. Doesn't sound like a lot but it all took about 12hr, I did spend 4 hr this morning installing the canopy!

Tomorrow I would like to get the engine mounted, muffler, fuel tank and servos, then onto the cowl. I have a feeling this will take two or three days, with priming and fabricating the access hatch for high and low needle valves.

TB
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 10:53 PM
Scale Builder
United States, AZ, Litchfield Park
Joined Jul 2002
2,462 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gree View Post
That cockpit kit is outstanding... Don't have one for a 1/5th Fw190D9 do you Chad?
Thanks for the kind words Gree. I don't have a cockpit for the 190D but custom work is not out of the question.
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Old Nov 07, 2013, 04:39 AM
Sports scale builder
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Veich View Post
Thanks for the kind words Gree. I don't have a cockpit for the 190D but custom work is not out of the question.
The one thing Chad offers is a one of a kind product, you wont find another bird on the line with the same generic cockpit as yours, even the big birds had individuality to them by there pilots and there crews.

I know where I will be getting my scale parts from for my build attempts when I go for the top gun, may be a few more years.


TB
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Old Nov 07, 2013, 05:23 AM
Sports scale builder
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Progress

So I am chipping away, The list keeps getting smaller but it is a long one! The oil cooler doors worked out good. The look I was going for is the open position. In the full scale the door slides in and out. On the closed position it slides all the way out and flushes out with the fuselage so it is twice as big as the open position. In the open position it slides into the fuselage and opens leaving a little less then half of the door out and opened. This is the most common way you see it on these models. If I were to do it again I would do the sliding version, but this works too. I have them on a toggle switch and will close them after take off or I may mix them with the gear.

The servos are small and simple. The doors are glued in so they are not coming out during the finishing proses. This may be a bit more difficult but I will manage.

The air valve and servo is mounted as far forward as I could and still have access to it. I got the valve and servo to work without the spring setup I used on the test runs of the gear in the wing. With the sequencer you do not have endpoint adjustment on the servo. So I put the link close to the center as I could, drilled and tap threaded the ball link and it works perfect. Full throw both ways. I am using the Robart Quick Tees and so far they are holding. I setup the fuse and tail so I could isolate the fuselage system from the wing by not cutting in the Tees for the wing yet. This is a easy way to test this part before I add the wing in the mix. So far it is holding steady at 100psi since last night. I will cut in the tees today and cap them off and run another test tonight.

The steering servo and pull pull is in. I first set the cables on the outer hole at the source of the surface of gear that is being hooked to the servo. Then I defect the servo at 100% and see where I want to attach it to the servo arm based on how much throw I want. I like a lot of throw on my wheel for turning. You need it if you are flying off grass, and to bleed off speed so you don't run of the runway on pavement. So on my ruder and steering I have 100% travel on my servo and I can go to low rates if I need to . The steering servo is set to the trim knob on my radio so I can adjust the wheel on the fly without going into the radio.

TB
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Old Nov 07, 2013, 05:25 AM
Sports scale builder
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Next I will work on the front portion of the fuselage, mount the engine, the muffler, oil bypass doors, and the throttle and choke servos, that is my goal for today.

TB
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 06:03 AM
Sports scale builder
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Oil bypass doors and exit

Yesterday was a long marathon day. I was determined to get the oil bypass doors and exits installed and get the engine installed.

When I first fabricated the oil bypass plate that will hold the exit (muffler exits) in place I wanted to have a flush look and feel. Even though the tin is very thin, it still would be noticeable if it was just laid on top. So after the plate was fabricated and fitted in the proper location I built up the fuselage in this area with evercoat, then sanded it down using a duplicate tin template to flush it out. The results was a near perfect flush fit after installation. Since then I had glassed the area, and primed it so there was a lot of work to sand and fit the recessed area to accept the plate. I am pleased with the results. Originally I was only planning on having 6 button head #80 screws to hold the plate in place. The screws are threaded into a strip of G-10 behind the carbon fiber bottom shell. During the fitting of the muffler I decided to go ahead and add 4 more screws to each side. Strength and reliability over ruled scale this time.

This area will not have to much stress or vibration being there is a flexible gasket between the flex line and the plate, just enough to reduce the movement from the Iso-mount and the vibration. Of course this has not been tested and we will see how it holds up and performs. If this gasket fails then I may tig weld the flex line.


TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Nov 08, 2013 at 06:13 AM.
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 06:15 AM
Sports scale builder
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Engine and Cowl

The engine is mounted and ready for the throttle and choke linkage. As I stated in the beginning of this build thread it is a diary of a build mainly to document the work I have done and how I did it, being a build like this can span a year, or two you need to go back and see how you fabricated or installed a component. So I spent some time going over what I had done with the engine and the cowl. After a quick revue of the install I proceeded to complete the engine install. I remember that I wanted to push the cowl as fare forward as I could, the further it moved forward the more space was created where the spark plug cap will be. This created the need to shim the prop hub about a 1/4" so I now remember I needed to order a couple extra prop washers to use as shims so I will do that this weekend, which means I cant install the prop until they get here, how easily we forget!.....

In order to fit the engine I hade to first fit the muffler exits to the bypass plate. This required some bending and fitting of the flex lines. At the end of the flex lines there is a nipple attached to the flex line. This nipple fits inside the muffler exits. I wanted this so that there would be a solid connection. The gaskets acts as a seal mainly rather then a means to hold the flex line in place. Once the plate is installed everything is tight and cant move. After a few hours of installing and removing I go the plate to sit without any stress or pressure once the engine was in place. To do this I used a trick for fitting an engine by ones self. I use long bolts to act as rails so I could slide the engine away from its mounts and move it back and forth as I did the fitting. Once I had a good fit I replaced the long bolts one by one with the short engine mount bolts.

Once the engine was in place I moved onto the throttle linkage. This took some figuring as to how would be the best way knowing I still had batteries and the fuel tank to go in. So a single mount was the best way.

The choke servo will go next to the throttle servo but first I want to fit the tank. I made a battery tray and that will go as far forward as it can.

TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Nov 08, 2013 at 06:20 AM.
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 06:21 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Cowl fitting

I am now working on the cowl to locate the hatches I need to put in. One hatch will be for access to the High and Low needle valves. The other will be access for the cowl bolt that is tucked way up in the corner where the muffler is. Once the baffle is in there is no way to get to it so a hatch is the best way. I need to cut them, then fit them with magnets so I can prime the cowl.

It appears that the spark plug cap will penetrate the cowl. I see no way around this at this time. I really wish DLE would have just made this engine like the 55r. I know they will at same point and this would have saved a lot of grief. There is a TFGS corsair in dreamland so maybe by then they will have that engine with a rear exhaust and slanted plug


I have put in over 50hours this week so it is break time till next week. I need to get the tank in, the batteries, and the choke servo. This will complete the fuselage, then onto the wing. All I need to do with the wing is install the aileron servos and the gear and gear doors. Nothing needs to be fabricated so this should go smoothly.


TB
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 06:24 AM
Sports scale builder
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Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
Air test on main tank

I cut in the Tees for the wings and caped them off. So now I will test the air system over the weekend to make sure she holds. Before the Tees where cut in the system held 100psi for 24hr. I will monitor this to see if I need to make any changes.


TB
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 07:44 AM
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United States, TX, Leander
Joined Sep 2003
2,435 Posts
Tony,
Before you cut the cowl, I have seen guys change the type of plug they used to reduce height. Wayne used ngk CM6 plugs on a Zenoah GT80 in his corsair. There are plug insert adapters and boot ends for the spark plug cable.
Edwin
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 07:52 AM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
Joined Jan 2012
906 Posts
I am using a NKG CM6, the top of the plug is about. 1/4" from the cowl.

Links to the addaptors you mentioned?

TB
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